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what do you anchor yourself to the belay with?
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Poll: what do you anchor yourself to the belay with?
climbing rope 124 / 53%
daisy chain 29 / 12%
sewn slings 57 / 24%
other 24 / 10%
234 total votes
 

patto


Jul 2, 2009, 6:12 AM
Post #76 of 78 (642 views)
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Registered: Nov 14, 2005
Posts: 1453

Re: [desertwanderer81] what do you anchor yourself to the belay with? [In reply to]
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desertwanderer81 wrote:
I don't have the time to look now, but I specifically remember one instance about a year back where exactly this happened and both climbers ended up dead.

Oh and just a FYI, F2 falls etc do not work the same way for PAS's as they do rope falls. I'll have to look for the source when I have time, but it's something along the lines of a 2 foot PAS fall will put more force on an anchor than any rope fall. I could be wrong on that last one but I think that's what the numbers said. Wouldn't surpise me though. There is very little give in a PAS compared to a dynamic climbing rope.

So anyhow, with your system, you don't have the pro equalised? Or am I just reading it wrong. Why not just equalise your system and tie into that master point with your rope?

F2 most do certainly work in a similar way to roped falls. Its basically the same except with a stiffer spring. A large F2 onto static cord like a PAS could easily generate 30+kN ie stuff would break including the climber. Fortunately for smaller F2 falls body, harness and anchor stretch all plays a role in reducing the force.

Still if your not careful and manage to fall on static cord you are in trouble.

That said I sometimes use static slings as a safety. Though my usual approach is a clove hitch on my climbing rope.


desertwanderer81


Jul 2, 2009, 6:19 AM
Post #77 of 78 (639 views)
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Registered: Sep 5, 2007
Posts: 2272

Re: [patto] what do you anchor yourself to the belay with? [In reply to]
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You're right Patto..... I was explaining myself poorly.

I should have just said that small PAS falls, reguardless of their nature, can often put more stress on an anchor than a F2 roped fall.

Fair enough?


dingus


Jul 3, 2009, 4:42 AM
Post #78 of 78 (593 views)
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398

Re: [desertwanderer81] what do you anchor yourself to the belay with? [In reply to]
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While you are explaining maybe you can explain why you feel compelled to weigh in on every muthafuggin gear thread and carry on discussions like you actually know from personal experience? The whole rap from a sport anchor thing really illustrated the shortcomings of your book and interdweeb grad school. Now you're lecturing about static anchor systems like a freakin expert...

Splain that...? Where do you get off with the lectures there Professor?

DMT

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