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notapplicable
Oct 28, 2008, 11:22 PM
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Oh and because no one else has said it...
YOU WILL DIE nOOb!!!
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knieveltech
Oct 28, 2008, 11:48 PM
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notapplicable wrote: Oh and because no one else has said it... YOU WILL DIE nOOb!!!
Fuck! I knew I was forgetting something.
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carabiner96
Oct 29, 2008, 12:05 AM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: carabiner96 wrote: Acadian granite is 2.3x the density of normal granite. That boulder isn't going anywhere. Don't be so sure. Cams provide a lot more leverage than you think. I have seen cams leverage a block and be pulled out. Second (directed at swaghole), are you sure that angle is 45 degrees? It looks more like 100. Could be an illusion, Though. Josh
careful you don't trip over your sense of humor there, boy!
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basilisk
Oct 29, 2008, 12:39 AM
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carabiner96 wrote: Acadian granite is 2.3x the density of normal granite. That boulder isn't going anywhere.
To the contrary, that boulder moves quite easily. I was dancing on it one day and it moved. The vertical boulder in the fore-ground to the left of the hex moves even easier. Definitely wouldn't put a cam on that one.
All that said, it's hard to build an anchor for those climbs without those boulders, and I've used them more than once. But someday it's gonna get someone in trouble
(This post was edited by basilisk on Oct 29, 2008, 12:40 AM)
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churningindawake
Oct 29, 2008, 12:45 AM
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I really don't think that putting cams in between boulders is really that safe.
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hafilax
Oct 29, 2008, 12:50 AM
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I didn't realize that front one is detached as well.
A friend told me a rule of thumb passed on from his father. If it rings it's attached, if it goes thud it's not.
I lead a climb that goes on top of a big flake taking a few whippers onto a nut in the process. I'm belaying the second up while standing on the flake when he gets to the nut. After a little hammering with the nut tool it releases and I could feel the whole flake go "Booooonnnnnng". At least I knew it was attached. 
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notapplicable
Oct 29, 2008, 1:15 AM
Post #32 of 87
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knieveltech wrote: notapplicable wrote: Oh and because no one else has said it... YOU WILL DIE nOOb!!! Fuck! I knew I was forgetting something.
If you have to ask, your gonna die. If don't ask, your gonna die.
Either way, YOU WILL DIE!!!
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carabiner96
Oct 29, 2008, 2:42 AM
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I really didn't think anyone would take me seriously...
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spikeddem
Oct 29, 2008, 2:48 AM
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hafilax wrote: I didn't realize that front one is detached as well. A friend told me a rule of thumb passed on from his father. If it rings it's attached, if it goes thud it's not. I lead a climb that goes on top of a big flake taking a few whippers onto a nut in the process. I'm belaying the second up while standing on the flake when he gets to the nut. After a little hammering with the nut tool it releases and I could feel the whole flake go "Booooonnnnnng". At least I knew it was attached.
First off, rules of thumb are supposed to rhyme! Duh!
Second off, I don't know what you mean by "ring" and "thud" I guess, but if it sounds hollow that means it is detached. Sounds to me like you're saying the opposite?
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hafilax
Oct 29, 2008, 3:02 AM
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A flake is like a tuning fork if it's attached. When you hit it you can sense it vibrating. If it's broken off and sitting on dirt the vibrations will be damped and it goes thud.
Just because it's attached doesn't mean it's any safer to place gear behind it but at least you have some more information.
If there's a ring
place pro with a sling
If it goes thud
it's surely a dud
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cracklover
Oct 29, 2008, 1:59 PM
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swaghole wrote: FWIW, the rock is very dense granite. The right hex wasn't going anywhere. Bomber placement in a constricting crack with rock that is 8" thick. I could have dropped my truck on it. The rock would need to break for that piece to fail.
carabiner96 wrote: Acadian granite is 2.3x the density of normal granite. That boulder isn't going anywhere.
Uh... I don't know how to say this, so I'll just use a picture:
That used to be three popular climbs at Otter Cliffs.
Cheers!
GO
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jrathfon
Oct 29, 2008, 2:08 PM
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Yeah, I've seen big boulders move. I had lowered my friend down a climb, he climbed up, than I lowered him back to the deck, he walked over to another climb as I made a new anchor atop another climb. He got up and said "whoa dude, you belayed my off a boulder?" and I was like "yeah, sure, it's huge" (about 2x4x7'). I had a cordalette strapped around it. He said the thing was totally insecure and I responded with "no way" the thing ain't moving, he bet me a beer he could move it, then quickly got into a leg press position behind the boulder and shoved it sideways, the thing moved easily.
Where was this? On top of Otter Cliffs.
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cracklover
Oct 29, 2008, 2:14 PM
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Oh, and for those of you not in the know, Otter Cliffs (to which jrathfon and I are referring) is at Acadia - where this dude's anchor was made.
GO
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carabiner96
Oct 29, 2008, 2:25 PM
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That rockfall was the second of two major falls in as many years (granted, the first was caused by an earthquake).
I've been climbing in acadia near ten years now, and have climbed there all 12 months of the year. In the freeze thaw seasons, you can almost see car sized boulders move up and down, just like the cliff was breathing.
That said, the bubble hasn't moved in eons, even with the encouragement of the MDI football team '52!!!
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carabiner96
Oct 29, 2008, 2:26 PM
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carabiner96 wrote: Acadian granite is 2.3x the density of normal granite. That boulder isn't going anywhere.
Again, this was A JOKE. Normally, I don't care if people don't get it, but if people think i'm serious on this one then I just look like a tard.
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knieveltech
Oct 29, 2008, 2:34 PM
Post #44 of 87
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cracklover wrote: swaghole wrote: FWIW, the rock is very dense granite. The right hex wasn't going anywhere. Bomber placement in a constricting crack with rock that is 8" thick. I could have dropped my truck on it. The rock would need to break for that piece to fail. carabiner96 wrote: Acadian granite is 2.3x the density of normal granite. That boulder isn't going anywhere. Uh... I don't know how to say this, so I'll just use a picture: That used to be three popular climbs at Otter Cliffs. Cheers! GO
Holy shit. Choss much?
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jrathfon
Oct 29, 2008, 2:41 PM
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carabiner96 wrote: carabiner96 wrote: Acadian granite is 2.3x the density of normal granite. That boulder isn't going anywhere. Again, this was A JOKE. Normally, I don't care if people don't get it, but if people think i'm serious on this one then I just look like a tard.
I think the "a la classy" picture beat you to the punch.
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jrathfon
Oct 29, 2008, 2:43 PM
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cracklover wrote: swaghole wrote: FWIW, the rock is very dense granite. The right hex wasn't going anywhere. Bomber placement in a constricting crack with rock that is 8" thick. I could have dropped my truck on it. The rock would need to break for that piece to fail. carabiner96 wrote: Acadian granite is 2.3x the density of normal granite. That boulder isn't going anywhere. Uh... I don't know how to say this, so I'll just use a picture: [image]http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg186/reticentbehavior/AcadiaRockfall.jpg[/image] That used to be three popular climbs at Otter Cliffs. Cheers! GO
funny enough, I was belaying my buddy up one of those ill fated climbs, maybe one of those boulders in the pic as they used to be about 20 ft back from the edge (asuming this pic is taken from the sea stack)
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hansundfritz
Oct 29, 2008, 2:44 PM
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I would have been tempted to head for the trees in the background of the picture for one leg of the anchor -- provided, of course, that you had enough of the lead rope left.
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jrathfon
Oct 29, 2008, 2:54 PM
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maybe we were a little left, i remember there just being a rock wall in the back, no trees, and options for two boulders, being anywhere close to in-line with the top of the climb. it was a quick anchor build, he just wanted one more pitch before we head out.
that being said, we were critiquing anchors. i would use a heavy boulder in a pinch and back it up with my legs and body anyday, like a pseudo body belay back up off the harness kind of thing, especially when it's a 5.10 climber doing a 5.7 pitch and there isn't anything else around, a storm's a brewing, and the brews are calling your name.
more on topic: putting 4 pieces on one leg and 1 on another is just silly. utilizing that 2nd cordalette would be more effective with 2 pieces on each leg of the master point cordalette (a 2x2 anchor instead of a 4x1). and as was stated before the vertical cracks that are more integral in the cliff offer better protection points than the loosely attached flakes/boulders/choss, just sitting on top.
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jajen
Oct 29, 2008, 2:55 PM
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Dacs? Upper Tiers?
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sbaclimber
Oct 29, 2008, 3:02 PM
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jajen wrote: Dacs? Beer Walls Upper Tiers? 
edit for speeling
(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Oct 29, 2008, 3:03 PM)
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I thought you were serious
Next time
I will make sure
with a serious answer
because you know I have never made a joke before
) 
