Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads:
Alien alternative?
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Poll: Alien alternative?
Master Cam 29 / 41%
BD C3 8 / 11%
Would still risk and by Aliens! 29 / 41%
Write in 4 / 6%
70 total votes
 

anarkhos


Nov 8, 2008, 9:53 PM
Post #51 of 52 (604 views)
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Registered: Nov 1, 2006
Posts: 229

Re: [wmfork] Alien alternative? [In reply to]
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wmfork wrote:
anarkhos wrote:
Why not do a UIAA drop test like they do on ropes? I think they drop a 80Kg weight 5m on 2.8m of rope, five times.

And would you still use said rope after it has passed the drop test?

No Crazy

I don't climb with 3m ropes, either.


Partner cracklover


Nov 9, 2008, 4:28 AM
Post #52 of 52 (581 views)
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162

Re: [anarkhos] Alien alternative? [In reply to]
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anarkhos wrote:
In reply to:
A loop of that should get me a force of around 4.5-5.5kN.

I don't see what that's supposed to prove. Would you lead climb over a single piece held by 3mm tech cord?

Why not do a UIAA drop test like they do on ropes? I think they drop a 80Kg weight 5m on 2.8m of rope, five times.

Most single pieces of gear can't hold forces that big. Certainly without being mangled. If you think your gear's that good, you're fooling yourself.

To answer your question directly - I feel that testing it to around half it's rated strength is sufficient to tell me that there are no massive defects in the construction (such as the yellow Alien in that picture with the cable barely inserted into the head). And is low enough to avoid damaging the gear.

GO

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