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Anchors - Analysis (No 3)
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majid_sabet


Nov 18, 2008, 6:27 PM
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Re: [epoch] Anchors - Analysis (part II) [In reply to]
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epoch wrote:
Also, since everyone here is so inclined to be such an armchair critic (majid I'm looking at you), I invite you all to show off a creation of yours to partake in this series.

Here is one thing I do not understand from you anchor especially your master point where you got three+ strand of cord supporting the master biner.You could clip your master biner to 10 strand or 20 strand and that does not make your master point stronger where the rest of the legs are attached with one strand.

you could use as many strand as you wish to build your master but if only one strand is used to link the master to your cam, then your anchor is as strong as the that single strand. Basically, if you link a 14 kn biner to 12 kn rope and add a 10 cam but then use 5 kn rap ring. Your anchor is only rated to 5kn.


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Nov 18, 2008, 6:34 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Anchors - Analysis (part II) [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
epoch wrote:
Also, since everyone here is so inclined to be such an armchair critic (majid I'm looking at you), I invite you all to show off a creation of yours to partake in this series.
you could use as many strand as you wish to build your master but if only one strand is used to link the master to your cam, then your anchor is as strong as the that single strand. Basically, if you link a 14 kn biner to 12 kn rope and add a 10 cam but then use 5 kn rap ring. Your anchor is only rated to 5kn.
This is true.


justroberto


Nov 18, 2008, 6:54 PM
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Re: [epoch] Anchors - Analysis (part II) [In reply to]
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epoch wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
epoch wrote:
Also, since everyone here is so inclined to be such an armchair critic (majid I'm looking at you), I invite you all to show off a creation of yours to partake in this series.
you could use as many strand as you wish to build your master but if only one strand is used to link the master to your cam, then your anchor is as strong as the that single strand. Basically, if you link a 14 kn biner to 12 kn rope and add a 10 cam but then use 5 kn rap ring. Your anchor is only rated to 5kn.
This is true.
And irrelevant. Who the fuck uses a rap ring (or anything rated at 5 kN, for that matter) on his master point anyways?

FWIW, I tend to use the equalette more often than not. I do keep it pretied, and once the gear is placed it generally takes less than 60 seconds to set up. I like it because the strands tend to reach farther than the cordolette, it's more flexible, and I have yet to run into a situation where i can't use it in lieu of the c-lette.


(This post was edited by justroberto on Nov 18, 2008, 6:55 PM)


majid_sabet


Nov 18, 2008, 7:09 PM
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Re: [justroberto] Anchors - Analysis (part II) [In reply to]
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justroberto wrote:
epoch wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
epoch wrote:
Also, since everyone here is so inclined to be such an armchair critic (majid I'm looking at you), I invite you all to show off a creation of yours to partake in this series.
you could use as many strand as you wish to build your master but if only one strand is used to link the master to your cam, then your anchor is as strong as the that single strand. Basically, if you link a 14 kn biner to 12 kn rope and add a 10 cam but then use 5 kn rap ring. Your anchor is only rated to 5kn.
This is true.
And irrelevant. Who the fuck uses a rap ring (or anything rated at 5 kN, for that matter) on his master point anyways?

FWIW, I tend to use the equalette more often than not. I do keep it pretied, and once the gear is placed it generally takes less than 60 seconds to set up. I like it because the strands tend to reach farther than the cordolette, it's more flexible, and I have yet to run into a situation where i can't use it in lieu of the c-lette.

I use rap ring for my master and works great. By far even better than most biners cause you do not have to worry about locking/unlocking whatever.

You got any picture from your 60 sec rig ?


mojomonkey


Nov 18, 2008, 7:13 PM
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Re: [epoch] Anchors - Analysis (part II) [In reply to]
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epoch wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
epoch wrote:
Also, since everyone here is so inclined to be such an armchair critic (majid I'm looking at you), I invite you all to show off a creation of yours to partake in this series.
you could use as many strand as you wish to build your master but if only one strand is used to link the master to your cam, then your anchor is as strong as the that single strand. Basically, if you link a 14 kn biner to 12 kn rope and add a 10 cam but then use 5 kn rap ring. Your anchor is only rated to 5kn.
This is true.

I guess, in some odd and silly serial anchor. So what?

I am missing the point since that doesn't apply in this situation. There isn't a single strand connection for the power point. For the rigging shown here, there is a loop on each side of the "master point", so you could clove and load two pieces on each side. Even here, if you are going to point to the right hand single piece failing, that still doesn't mean the anchor fails. Additionally, a load at the master point that would just barely be sufficient to cause the individual piece to fail had it directly impacted the piece should not make that piece/side fail when rigged... unless the anchor was rigged so poorly to not distribute load, or actually multiply it.


Partner cracklover


Nov 18, 2008, 7:32 PM
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Re: [dingus] Anchors - Analysis (part II) [In reply to]
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dingus wrote:
epoch wrote:
Also, since everyone here is so inclined to be such an armchair critic (majid I'm looking at you), I invite you all to show off a creation of yours to partake in this series.

I show off my climbing-related creations ALL THE TIME, here and elsewhere.

You do, indeed. And you know it's much appreciated by many.

The trouble with this whole anchor business is that people really want to have an anchor system that's "safe". Like - guaranteed safe, in all situations, without having to think too much.

Same reason why John Long (whether he meant it this way or not) was so successful at selling the cordelette method.

Trouble is, I think it's human nature. And, frankly, I'd rather have everyone *think* they've got a perfect solution. Because, frankly, if they know otherwise, then they'll clamor for the only alternative - bolt the question out of existence.

In reply to:
My anchors are simple, like me.

I like that line! My anchors vary between the simple and the arcane, with no discernible logic for why, to anyone outside my own head. Like me!

GO


Partner cracklover


Nov 18, 2008, 7:34 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Anchors - Analysis (part II) [In reply to]
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Oh, and to the OP, I have no opinion on your anchor. I honestly can't tell that much about it from the pics you posted. Seems like the rock\moss\muck under the cam might be too slippery to hold, but I'd just have to be there to make an educated guess.

GO


hafilax


Nov 18, 2008, 8:04 PM
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Re: [dingus] Anchors - Analysis (part II) [In reply to]
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That anchor seems reasonable given the mossy, chossy cracks. If there was any chance of a lead fall onto the anchor I might alter it when the second arrives with better placements assuming a better placement could be found. It's hard to tell from the photos. I like that the seemingly better placement is solo and the other two chained.

I often lead every pitch in a day (17 one day) and when leading in blocks you can't use the rope to build the anchor. I usually base it around sliding-x's and a double length sling and rarely build a fully SERENE anchor (or whatever the word of the day is). I carry a long cord in case but use it more for big trees than anything.

I've never done the equalette thing on a climb but I've played with it on the ground. Pre tieing it wouldn't work for me since I usually use my cord to sling 1m+ diameter cedars (they make a pretty good anchor).


justroberto


Nov 18, 2008, 8:14 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Anchors - Analysis (part II) [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:

I use rap ring for my master and works great. By far even better than most biners cause you do not have to worry about locking/unlocking whatever.
Different strokes for different folks, I guess. I just wouldn't feel like pre-threading the ring.

In reply to:
You got any picture from your 60 sec rig ?
Nope. It's a standard equalette. Pretty much, my limiter knots knots are pre-tied about 8 inches apart. Once the gear is in place, all I have to do is clove hitch all three (or four) pieces, and if need be, adjust the hitches and/or limiter knots. Sliding X the master point between the limiter knots and slap on the locking biner(s) to clove into with the rope.

It took longer to type it than it typically does to set up. I like it because the sliding x gives a little 3-D movement, tying and adjusting the master point in a c-lette is a little more finicky process, the legs can be shorter or longer and are easier to adjust, and it's easy to visually assess. When you break it down, you just have to pull the cloves, no need to untie anything. Just personal preference.

Clearly, Dingus' approach is faster and simpler, but I guess I'm typically more skeered than he is.Wink


dingus


Nov 18, 2008, 8:16 PM
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Re: [justroberto] Anchors - Analysis (part II) [In reply to]
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justroberto wrote:
Clearly, Dingus' approach is faster and simpler, but I guess I'm typically more skeered than he is.Wink

I bet you're nooooooooot! Imachickenshit (Tm)

DMT


jollymon


Nov 18, 2008, 8:21 PM
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Re: [billl7] Anchors - Analysis (part II) [In reply to]
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billl7 wrote:
jollymon wrote:
2. poor cam placement. interior side has way different extension from the outside. Easy walker.
Why does that make it more likely to walk than a placement with equal deployment? When it comes to cams walking, I am concerned more about rope-action, direction of pull, and cracks that widen around the point of placement. Not whether I have even cam deployment. Edit: besides, that cam's deployment looks pretty dam good to me.

*******************************************
Well it does not look good to me and I always try for simi even deployments. I am obviously more anal then you with my placements. Clearly you are at a much tighter deployment interior verse exterior compounded by the proximity to the edge of the crack witht he exterior lobes.
*******************************************
jollymon wrote:
4. equalize all protection, not two pieces and one piece.
There are systems to equalize odd numbers of protection although doing it redundantly and dynamically is usually not done cleanly (even with the equalette).

Anyway, why always equalize between three instead of two and then one? I understand the load is not truely equalized across all pieces. But the primary in general anchor building is to place bomber individual pieces. Why always go to extremes every time if one usually has bomber individual placements and limited anchor extension upon failure.
*******************************************
Again I am clearly a more anal with my anchor setups. I might gain stability of the system but will take more time and not move as fast. It is a tradeoff I am prepared to be on the safe side and lose a litle time.
I also would point out my critique of the anchor looks at the whole and the primary placement is sketch IMHO. Thus increasing the reasons behind a 3 point equalization.
*******************************************

Bill L

On a different point would someone mind laying out the cons and pros of the X vs the equalette.

-Jolly

editd to add segmentation to my responses....I need to get the quotes thing down lol


(This post was edited by jollymon on Nov 18, 2008, 8:27 PM)


jollymon


Nov 18, 2008, 8:25 PM
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Re: [shockabuku] Anchors - Analysis (part II) [In reply to]
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shockabuku wrote:
What does this:

jollymon wrote:
individual pro on upper left hex looks longer then other equalized.

mean?

yea that is the unequalized piece I am referring to and it looks run out a bit longer then it would be if equalized with the entire group. I worded that poorly.

-Jolly


justroberto


Nov 18, 2008, 8:26 PM
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Re: [jollymon] Anchors - Analysis (part II) [In reply to]
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jollymon wrote:
On a different point would someone mind laying out the cons and pros of the X vs the equalette.

-Jolly

Yes, would someone please do that?


justroberto


Nov 18, 2008, 8:29 PM
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Pretty Please?


knieveltech


Nov 18, 2008, 8:35 PM
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Re: [epoch] Anchors - Analysis (part II) [In reply to]
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epoch wrote:
Also, since everyone here is so inclined to be such an armchair critic (majid I'm looking at you), I invite you all to show off a creation of yours to partake in this series.

Ban him immediately if it doesn't involve a spare tire and some ice screws.


jollymon


Nov 18, 2008, 8:36 PM
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Re: [epoch] Anchors - Analysis (part II) [In reply to]
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epoch wrote:
Also, since everyone here is so inclined to be such an armchair critic (majid I'm looking at you), I invite you all to show off a creation of yours to partake in this series.

I would like to take this point to say I think a valid and open debate is a great thing for learning and I like this series alot. I am learning things and thats always good. It gives a wider potential for solving ANY problem that can arise. I would like to see some much more difficult situational placements in the future that offer no clear cut solutions...

thinking like a single flared crack and no other potential pro placements. I have yet to run into this but have talked to and heard a different approach from everyone that has.

Or maybe instead of the systems of an anchor, where would be the best place to protect from given options.

just my opinion.

-Jolly


justroberto


Nov 18, 2008, 8:36 PM
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Srsly guys, I can't find anything!


majid_sabet


Nov 18, 2008, 8:37 PM
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Re: [justroberto] Anchors - Analysis (part II) [In reply to]
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justroberto wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:

I use rap ring for my master and works great. By far even better than most biners cause you do not have to worry about locking/unlocking whatever.
Different strokes for different folks, I guess. I just wouldn't feel like pre-threading the ring.

In reply to:
You got any picture from your 60 sec rig ?
Nope. It's a standard equalette. Pretty much, my limiter knots knots are pre-tied about 8 inches apart. Once the gear is in place, all I have to do is clove hitch all three (or four) pieces, and if need be, adjust the hitches and/or limiter knots. Sliding X the master point between the limiter knots and slap on the locking biner(s) to clove into with the rope.

It took longer to type it than it typically does to set up. I like it because the sliding x gives a little 3-D movement, tying and adjusting the master point in a c-lette is a little more finicky process, the legs can be shorter or longer and are easier to adjust, and it's easy to visually assess. When you break it down, you just have to pull the cloves, no need to untie anything. Just personal preference.

Clearly, Dingus' approach is faster and simpler, but I guess I'm typically more skeered than he is.Wink

you description is already confusing and I bet, your so called c-lette is no more than a regular CF-lette but with a different flaveor.

just post a photo and let me see it


justroberto


Nov 18, 2008, 9:02 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Anchors - Analysis (part II) [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:

you description is already confusing and I bet, your so called c-lette is no more than a regular CF-lette but with a different flaveor.

just post a photo and let me see it

Are you kidding me? I just told you it's a standard equalette and you want me to show you a picture? If you don't know what it is, haven't done a search, and haven't worked with it yourself, you can't reasonably have any opinion on it...

Or are you just fucking with me? The "Improved Sliding X" thread had almost 1000 posts in it and you of all people didn't see it?


hafilax


Nov 18, 2008, 9:10 PM
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Re: [justroberto] Anchors - Analysis (part II) [In reply to]
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Sliding-x without limiting knots:
-connects 2 pieces
-if the sling is cut it fails; not inherently redundant
-can somewhat equalize but for rapid changes in direction there is quite a bit of friction from the sling rubbing
-has full sliding range
-can use any slings from the rack which already have the needed biners
-one biner for the master point

Equalette:
-connects 2-4 pieces
-equalizes between the 2 halves but not necessarily within each half
-for 3 pieces one piece takes ~1/2 the load and the other 2 share the other ~1/2 depending on geometry and setup
-can cut any one line and does not fail (with 2 master point biners)
-sliding range and extension limited by the limiting knots (duh)
-less friction than the sliding-x for rapid changes in loading direction
-uses a dedicated cord (that is a PITA to rack IMO)
-requires a biner for each piece plus 2 for the master point

On paper the equalette looks like a clear winner and some people love it. I usually clove hitch to my favourite piece, sliding-x 2 and sliding-x that to a 3rd with a single locker for a master point that I'll belay off of with a reverso. If I belay off my harness I clove hitch to the master point instead. I often lead in blocks though and even when swapping leads we sometimes pick and choose who climbs what.

The equalette works well if the pieces are nicely spaced but some spread out anchors are easier to rig up if you get creative but sacrifice equalization and redundancy.


(This post was edited by hafilax on Nov 18, 2008, 9:36 PM)


majid_sabet


Nov 18, 2008, 9:19 PM
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Re: [justroberto] Anchors - Analysis (part II) [In reply to]
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justroberto wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:

you description is already confusing and I bet, your so called c-lette is no more than a regular CF-lette but with a different flaveor.

just post a photo and let me see it

Are you kidding me? I just told you it's a standard equalette and you want me to show you a picture? If you don't know what it is, haven't done a search, and haven't worked with it yourself, you can't reasonably have any opinion on it...

Or are you just fucking with me? The "Improved Sliding X" thread had almost 1000 posts in it and you of all people didn't see it?

I am not. I want to see a picture of your anchor setup with all the pro been linked with master point. Thats what i want .

you got any?


shockabuku


Nov 18, 2008, 9:26 PM
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Re: [jollymon] Anchors - Analysis (part II) [In reply to]
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jollymon wrote:
shockabuku wrote:
What does this:

jollymon wrote:
individual pro on upper left hex looks longer then other equalized.

mean?

yea that is the unequalized piece I am referring to and it looks run out a bit longer then it would be if equalized with the entire group. I worded that poorly.

-Jolly

The correct word is "than", with an "a".

Now then, "it looks run out" is a confusing choice of words in this situation because "run out" generally refers to the distance between pieces of gear. I take it however, that you are using it to mean the length of equalette arm in comparison to the other arms. Assuming that's what you mean, why do draw issue to it? One of the useful features of the equalette is that the powerpoint is free to equalize at least within a range that compensates for unequal length arms and their respective elongation when weighted. Your point is not obvious (to me) or is based on a faulty assumption.


justroberto


Nov 18, 2008, 9:35 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Anchors - Analysis (part II) [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
justroberto wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:

you description is already confusing and I bet, your so called c-lette is no more than a regular CF-lette but with a different flaveor.

just post a photo and let me see it

Are you kidding me? I just told you it's a standard equalette and you want me to show you a picture? If you don't know what it is, haven't done a search, and haven't worked with it yourself, you can't reasonably have any opinion on it...

Or are you just fucking with me? The "Improved Sliding X" thread had almost 1000 posts in it and you of all people didn't see it?

I am not. I want to see a picture of your anchor setup with all the pro been linked with master point. Thats what i want .

you got any?

Haysus creesto. I'll rig some shit up and take a pic for you after work...


hafilax


Nov 18, 2008, 9:39 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Anchors - Analysis (part II) [In reply to]
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majid, why don't you let us know how you rig anchors and discuss the advantages of that system? It's easy to point out the problems of an anchor but if there isn't a better way then what?


spikeddem


Nov 18, 2008, 9:40 PM
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Re: [shockabuku] Anchors - Analysis (part II) [In reply to]
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shockabuku wrote:
jollymon wrote:
shockabuku wrote:
What does this:

jollymon wrote:
individual pro on upper left hex looks longer then other equalized.

mean?

yea that is the unequalized piece I am referring to and it looks run out a bit longer then it would be if equalized with the entire group. I worded that poorly.

-Jolly

The correct word is "than", with an "a".

Now then, "it looks run out" is a confusing choice of words in this situation because "run out" generally refers to the distance between pieces of gear. I take it however, that you are using it to mean the length of equalette arm in comparison to the other arms. Assuming that's what you mean, why do draw issue to it? One of the useful features of the equalette is that the powerpoint is free to equalize at least within a range that compensates for unequal length arms and their respective elongation when weighted. Your point is not obvious (to me) or is based on a faulty assumption.

I agree. Jolly, a little bit more clarity in your sentences would help us understand your points much more accurately.

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