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qwert
Dec 4, 2008, 4:24 PM
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Back to topic?
Yes?
So there it is:
funny and/or stupid things qwert has done climbing:
Going climbing after a night of partying and not sleeping much (dunno, 1 to 2 h?). Leading something that is at the upper level of what i can climb.
somehow finished wrong, and at the top, realized that ther was no anchor, so i topped out. No problem, normally there are trees, but not at this spot of the cliff, all i could find was some shrubs (pinky thick, at max, but at least a few of them) to sling and belay from.
As you can guess, my follower was happy to see that anchor.
Cleaned a traversing route once, but didnt bother to clip myself to the rope going down to my belayer. Was joking about jumping, and crashing into the people below, at the lowest point of a pendulum, should i jump.
At that moment my feet slipped, and i went into a pendulum towards the people at the lowest pint.
Nice guy that i am, i pulled up my feet, wich safed the folks, but caused my to crash ass firt, uncontrolled into a big boulder. Had to sleep on my front the rest of the holiday.
Went climbing with a costudent recently. I was leading, and we where talking english as the lowest common denominator (me german, her icelandic), and just when i was about to fall, i realized that i did not know the english word for "take". so i was hanging there, slowly peeling of the holds, and going "ermm, uh, could you ..." SLAM
No biggy, since she was a good belay, and could handle an unexpected fall, but funny nonetheless.
qwert
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sungam
Dec 4, 2008, 5:22 PM
Post #152 of 228
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camhead wrote: sungam wrote: altelis wrote: zeth01 wrote: quite often I see dumb things hapen at Chuckawalla where all the after work "climbers" go. I've ssen a few deck. I've seen people taken off belay after yelling take. Yesterday I saw someone belaying with a gri gri upside down and they were using a solid gate oval biner in place of an hms. Here I am trying to work a 12 but im too nervous to climb because i'm affraid the ignorant peops next to me are going to die. I've given up trying to help people there. they get too defensive. If your going to climb THINK. Use your damn brain. I have no idea what people think sometimes but theres no excuse for shit like this to happen. um, i believe this belongs in the "false humility but really spraying" thread  yup. No offense to the lad, but that was fucking blatant. How is that spraying? Everyone and their dead dog "works" 5.12; it;s nothing special.
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TJGoSurf
Dec 5, 2008, 12:23 AM
Post #154 of 228
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qwert wrote: Back to topic? Yes? So there it is: funny and/or stupid things qwert has done climbing: Going climbing after a night of partying and not sleeping much (dunno, 1 to 2 h?). Leading something that is at the upper level of what i can climb. somehow finished wrong, and at the top, realized that ther was no anchor, so i topped out. No problem, normally there are trees, but not at this spot of the cliff, all i could find was some shrubs (pinky thick, at max, but at least a few of them) to sling and belay from. As you can guess, my follower was happy to see that anchor. Cleaned a traversing route once, but didnt bother to clip myself to the rope going down to my belayer. Was joking about jumping, and crashing into the people below, at the lowest point of a pendulum, should i jump. At that moment my feet slipped, and i went into a pendulum towards the people at the lowest pint. Nice guy that i am, i pulled up my feet, wich safed the folks, but caused my to crash ass firt, uncontrolled into a big boulder. Had to sleep on my front the rest of the holiday. Went climbing with a costudent recently. I was leading, and we where talking english as the lowest common denominator (me german, her icelandic), and just when i was about to fall, i realized that i did not know the english word for "take". so i was hanging there, slowly peeling of the holds, and going "ermm, uh, could you ..." SLAM No biggy, since she was a good belay, and could handle an unexpected fall, but funny nonetheless. qwert
That's every time for me. Only I try stuff that is a little above my level. 20' isnt that far to fall.
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StudentoftheEarth
Dec 7, 2008, 2:09 AM
Post #155 of 228
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So, I wanted to ascend a rope to move some holds at the gym I work at and had recently been shown the klemheist knot, so I was like sweet, I'll use my newly acquired skills. So I got my harness, webbing carabiner, and atc. I used the atc for one end of the rope, locking it off by tying the rope around my waist back to where it comes out of the atc. Then, I took the webbing tied my klemheists to the other end and proceeded to sit/stand my way up the rope. I went up moved the holds, came back down and then reviewed my setup. O.o I realized that it's a good thing I decided to stay in my seat.
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chossmonkey
Dec 7, 2008, 1:18 PM
Post #156 of 228
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sungam wrote: camhead wrote: sungam wrote: altelis wrote: zeth01 wrote: quite often I see dumb things hapen at Chuckawalla where all the after work "climbers" go. I've ssen a few deck. I've seen people taken off belay after yelling take. Yesterday I saw someone belaying with a gri gri upside down and they were using a solid gate oval biner in place of an hms. Here I am trying to work a 12 but im too nervous to climb because i'm affraid the ignorant peops next to me are going to die. I've given up trying to help people there. they get too defensive. If your going to climb THINK. Use your damn brain. I have no idea what people think sometimes but theres no excuse for shit like this to happen. um, i believe this belongs in the "false humility but really spraying" thread yup. No offense to the lad, but that was fucking blatant. How is that spraying? Everyone and their dead dog "works" 5.12; it;s nothing special. Maybe you guys, but I've never had to work a 5.12.
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sungam
Dec 8, 2008, 2:49 AM
Post #157 of 228
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chossmonkey wrote: sungam wrote: camhead wrote: sungam wrote: altelis wrote: zeth01 wrote: quite often I see dumb things hapen at Chuckawalla where all the after work "climbers" go. I've ssen a few deck. I've seen people taken off belay after yelling take. Yesterday I saw someone belaying with a gri gri upside down and they were using a solid gate oval biner in place of an hms. Here I am trying to work a 12 but im too nervous to climb because i'm affraid the ignorant peops next to me are going to die. I've given up trying to help people there. they get too defensive. If your going to climb THINK. Use your damn brain. I have no idea what people think sometimes but theres no excuse for shit like this to happen. um, i believe this belongs in the "false humility but really spraying" thread yup. No offense to the lad, but that was fucking blatant. How is that spraying? Everyone and their dead dog "works" 5.12; it;s nothing special. Maybe you guys, but I've never had to work a 5.12. You are so modest.
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USnavy
Dec 8, 2008, 7:19 AM
Post #158 of 228
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camhead wrote: sungam wrote: altelis wrote: zeth01 wrote: quite often I see dumb things hapen at Chuckawalla where all the after work "climbers" go. I've ssen a few deck. I've seen people taken off belay after yelling take. Yesterday I saw someone belaying with a gri gri upside down and they were using a solid gate oval biner in place of an hms. Here I am trying to work a 12 but im too nervous to climb because i'm affraid the ignorant peops next to me are going to die. I've given up trying to help people there. they get too defensive. If your going to climb THINK. Use your damn brain. I have no idea what people think sometimes but theres no excuse for shit like this to happen. um, i believe this belongs in the "false humility but really spraying" thread yup. No offense to the lad, but that was fucking blatant. How is that spraying? Everyone and their dead dog "works" 5.12; it;s nothing special.
Umm not really. Only maybe the top 10 - 20% of all climbers (including gym climbers) can lead a real 5.12 outdoors. Where I come from its more like the top 3%. And actually Wikipedia defines 5.12a as the starting point for the "semi-professional" climbing class. So yes leading 5.12 does put you a few notches above most. No, you’re not an elite climber if you lead 5.12 but your definitely up there.
(This post was edited by USnavy on Dec 8, 2008, 7:22 AM)
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swoopee
Dec 8, 2008, 12:57 PM
Post #159 of 228
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Goldline rope, Swiss seats, risking/taking 30-40 foot whippers on said goldline/swiss seat combo. Not climbing for 25 years. Easing back into climbing at age 47 one month after massive heart-attack by attempting 5.9 and 5.10 climbs. I win!
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camhead
Dec 8, 2008, 2:07 PM
Post #160 of 228
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USnavy wrote: camhead wrote: How is that spraying? Everyone and their dead dog "works" 5.12; it;s nothing special. Umm not really. Only maybe the top 10 - 20% of all climbers (including gym climbers) can lead a real 5.12 outdoors. Where I come from its more like the top 3%. And actually Wikipedia defines 5.12a as the starting point for the "semi-professional" climbing class. So yes leading 5.12 does put you a few notches above most. No, you’re not an elite climber if you lead 5.12 but your definitely up there.
ok, in addition to you quoting fricking wikipedia, you COMPLETELY missed my point.
I did not say that "everyone climbs 5.12," I said that "everyone WORKS 5.12." i.e. with many closely bolted sport climbs or even splitter cracks, it is possible for a 5.10 climber to get on a 5.12a and eventually clip the anchors, thereby justifying his failure by saying "well, I was WORKING it."
Thus, if anyone tells you "I work 5.12," it is nothing to be impressed at.
If someone consistently onsights 5.12 gear routes in a variety of styles, then yes, that is approaching the elite levels of climbing.
comprende?
(This post was edited by camhead on Dec 8, 2008, 2:09 PM)
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sungam
Dec 8, 2008, 2:56 PM
Post #161 of 228
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I worked a 12a yesterday. It wuz an eliminant on a 5.8, how badass am I???
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Carnage
Dec 8, 2008, 11:04 PM
Post #162 of 228
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sungam wrote: I worked a 12a yesterday. It wuz an eliminant on a 5.8, how badass am I???
black rain?
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sungam
Dec 8, 2008, 11:59 PM
Post #163 of 228
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Carnage wrote: sungam wrote: I worked a 12a yesterday. It wuz an eliminant on a 5.8, how badass am I??? black rain?
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notapplicable
Dec 9, 2008, 12:02 AM
Post #164 of 228
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sungam wrote: I worked a 12a yesterday. It wuz an eliminant on a 5.8, how badass am I???
**Swoon**
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irregularpanda
Dec 9, 2008, 12:25 AM
Post #165 of 228
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OK, back on topic here.
Years ago (had only been leading for 3 months) I jumped on outer space with a friend. It's a 6 pitch 5.9. To reach the line, you climb an easy ramp for a pitch, then traverse left on a longer, easier pitch to reach 2 tree ledge, as it's called. It's a huge ledge.
However, the guidebook also said that you could climb something more interesting, if you do some unspecified slab climbing, and then, somewhere on the second pitch, traverse to library ledge from the left, across a slab. My partner and I went that way.
Pitch 1: My buddy leads up some sketchy slab, his only good pro for the first half of the pitch was made by slinging a rotten tree stump burrowed into a shallow crack. Awesome. Then he laybacks a wide flake, with a thimbleberry bush growing out of it. For those of you who aren't familiar with thimbleberry, when you smear your feet againts granite, with thimbleberry underfoot, it's very slippery. He finished the pitch on sheer willpower knowing he wasn't allowed to fall.
Pitch 2: My turn. I could see more slab, then off to the right, a long traverse to library ledge. I climb the slab, and place my last piece. A decent nut. I check out the traverse. It's a slab. No cracks at all. 40 foot traverse. ugh.
After pissing my pants for about a half hour, I decide to skip the route, and work my way up a pretty looking corner system just above me. The cracks in it are shallow, and kinda dirty. I had to clean dirt out for most of my placements. It was scary, but at least it wasn't slab. I ran out of rope, and made an anchor. At least the anchor was bombproof. At least there were rappell stations off to my left, on a series of trees and bushes.
I bring my friend up, and he's cursing me for how I climbed those hard moves (I pulled on my nuts, A0 for the cruxes). Anyway, he gets up, and we realize that in order to reach those rappell stations, we had to be below and left of my anchor. He puts a piece in, and tells me to downclimb, so I can lead to the rap station. "don't fall" he says.
Ha, all he had was a totally overcammed #2 camalot. so I do it, traverse another 20 feet left to the rap station, and anchor in to the ancient red (or what used to be red) webbing. He should have just climbed over to me, but for some reason, whilst setting up said rappell, he unties. It took us 20 minutes for me to throw a rope end to him that he could reach. I think that was dumbass choice number 35 that day. Anyway, 7 rappells later, and we were on the ground.
A week later, and someone showed me where the correct start to Outerspace was. If you do it properly, it's a fun 5.9. Don't try to go up "maryjane dihedral" unless you want to climb a 5.10c dirty off width that is 5 pitches up the wall.
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clausti
Dec 9, 2008, 12:36 AM
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sbaclimber wrote: qwert wrote: i realized that i did not know the english word for "take" That's okay, there are a bunch of other 4 letter words in english that are understood equally as well, when uttered in the appropriate manner. 
somebody pulled off a big cobble at maple when I was there. she yell something in some language, not sure what, when it came off. and yet somehow, everyone (even those not looking) clearly understood that she meant ROCK!!
(This post was edited by clausti on Dec 9, 2008, 12:36 AM)
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Sin
Dec 9, 2008, 6:23 PM
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The dumbest thing I've ever done, mmm? I was at a climbing campsite/party getting to know other climbers, and they were talking about climbing trad. I said cool I wanna try that ( in my head), they heard " I can climb trad".
The next day we were in front of a 5.8, and my new partner asked me if I liked the route. Thinking he was gonna lead and I was gonna follow, I said sure. He says alright you go ahead an lead this one, I'm still hung over. Next thing I know I'm leading like it was 10 below zero, sewing up this short, but "deadly" 5.8 thanks to my ego. Pls don't try this at home kids, LOL.
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dingus
Dec 9, 2008, 7:40 PM
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Sin wrote: The dumbest thing I've ever done, mmm? I was at a climbing campsite/party getting to know other climbers, and they were talking about climbing trad. I said cool I wanna try that ( in my head), they heard " I can climb trad". The next day we were in front of a 5.8, and my new partner asked me if I liked the route. Thinking he was gonna lead and I was gonna follow, I said sure. He says alright you go ahead an lead this one, I'm still hung over. Next thing I know I'm leading like it was 10 below zero, sewing up this short, but "deadly" 5.8 thanks to my ego. Pls don't try this at home kids, LOL.
So the dumbest thing you ever did was take up lead climbing?????
I don't get it!
DMT
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Sin
Dec 10, 2008, 4:30 PM
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dingus wrote: Sin wrote: The dumbest thing I've ever done, mmm? I was at a climbing campsite/party getting to know other climbers, and they were talking about climbing trad. I said cool I wanna try that ( in my head), they heard " I can climb trad". The next day we were in front of a 5.8, and my new partner asked me if I liked the route. Thinking he was gonna lead and I was gonna follow, I said sure. He says alright you go ahead an lead this one, I'm still hung over. Next thing I know I'm leading like it was 10 below zero, sewing up this short, but "deadly" 5.8 thanks to my ego. Pls don't try this at home kids, LOL. So the dumbest thing you ever did was take up lead climbing????? I don't get it! DMT
I'm talking about leading without knowing what a good or bad placement looks like, and not following first to pick up the correct way to place gear.
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dingus
Dec 10, 2008, 4:32 PM
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Sin wrote: dingus wrote: Sin wrote: The dumbest thing I've ever done, mmm? I was at a climbing campsite/party getting to know other climbers, and they were talking about climbing trad. I said cool I wanna try that ( in my head), they heard " I can climb trad". The next day we were in front of a 5.8, and my new partner asked me if I liked the route. Thinking he was gonna lead and I was gonna follow, I said sure. He says alright you go ahead an lead this one, I'm still hung over. Next thing I know I'm leading like it was 10 below zero, sewing up this short, but "deadly" 5.8 thanks to my ego. Pls don't try this at home kids, LOL. So the dumbest thing you ever did was take up lead climbing????? I don't get it! DMT I'm talking about leading without knowing what a good or bad placement looks like, and not following first to pick up the correct way to place gear.
Lots of folks learned this way bro. It may be dumb but if that's the dumbest thing you ever do in climbing you're in good company.
DMT
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Goo
Dec 10, 2008, 4:55 PM
Post #171 of 228
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camhead wrote: USnavy wrote: camhead wrote: How is that spraying? Everyone and their dead dog "works" 5.12; it;s nothing special. Umm not really. Only maybe the top 10 - 20% of all climbers (including gym climbers) can lead a real 5.12 outdoors. Where I come from its more like the top 3%. And actually Wikipedia defines 5.12a as the starting point for the "semi-professional" climbing class. So yes leading 5.12 does put you a few notches above most. No, you’re not an elite climber if you lead 5.12 but your definitely up there. ok, in addition to you quoting fricking wikipedia, you COMPLETELY missed my point. I did not say that "everyone climbs 5.12," I said that "everyone WORKS 5.12." i.e. with many closely bolted sport climbs or even splitter cracks, it is possible for a 5.10 climber to get on a 5.12a and eventually clip the anchors, thereby justifying his failure by saying "well, I was WORKING it." Thus, if anyone tells you "I work 5.12," it is nothing to be impressed at. If someone consistently onsights 5.12 gear routes in a variety of styles, then yes, that is approaching the elite levels of climbing. comprende?
yes exactly what i was gonna say. good call.
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sungam
Dec 10, 2008, 5:56 PM
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dingus wrote: Sin wrote: dingus wrote: Sin wrote: The dumbest thing I've ever done, mmm? I was at a climbing campsite/party getting to know other climbers, and they were talking about climbing trad. I said cool I wanna try that ( in my head), they heard " I can climb trad". The next day we were in front of a 5.8, and my new partner asked me if I liked the route. Thinking he was gonna lead and I was gonna follow, I said sure. He says alright you go ahead an lead this one, I'm still hung over. Next thing I know I'm leading like it was 10 below zero, sewing up this short, but "deadly" 5.8 thanks to my ego. Pls don't try this at home kids, LOL. So the dumbest thing you ever did was take up lead climbing????? I don't get it! DMT I'm talking about leading without knowing what a good or bad placement looks like, and not following first to pick up the correct way to place gear. Lots of folks learned this way bro. It may be dumb but if that's the dumbest thing you ever do in climbing you're in good company. DMT
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jacobs
Dec 23, 2008, 5:04 PM
Post #173 of 228
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poping out my shoulder on a climb
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sungam
Dec 23, 2008, 5:12 PM
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jacobs wrote: poping out my shoulder on a climb
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ClimbSoHigh
Dec 30, 2008, 8:42 PM
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its also a good idea to have the anchor backed up, expecially where it is rubbing the rock. Tie two webbings to two boulders/trees so if one fails or is sliced there is a back up. It also cuts in half/quarter the amount of force on each piece of webbing durring an emergency bee lowering.
Also make sure to tug/jump on tr anchors to give em a good test before climbing/rapping.
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