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dingus


Jan 5, 2009, 4:18 PM
Post #26 of 35 (1068 views)
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Re: [keep_it_real] Sport Draws [In reply to]
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keep_it_real wrote:
I hope you weren't being sarcastic/kidding about the galvanic corrosion because I'm going to feel pretty stupid if you were. I emailed a BD Rep about it cause I'd rather not have my slings breaking. Here's what he said:

Where did you read such a thing? BD does not use any such 'coating' on
any of its quickdraws so it's a little difficult to comment. I've
actually never heard of this. Make sure you're getting good info.

This rubber 'ring' actually has to do with holding the rope-end biner
firmly in place so it doesn't flip around when you're trying to clip it
from a tough stance (it's quicker, easier to do, etc).

It's perfectly fine to use Quicksilver or Oz Draws and/or Carabiners for
any style of climbing/mountaineering use.

^^^^^^

How to make an 'angry' man laugh out loud....

DMT


suilenroc


Jan 5, 2009, 4:33 PM
Post #27 of 35 (1063 views)
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Re: [keep_it_real] Sport Draws [In reply to]
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keep_it_real wrote:
I hope you weren't being sarcastic/kidding about the galvanic corrosion because I'm going to feel pretty stupid if you were. I emailed a BD Rep about it cause I'd rather not have my slings breaking. Here's what he said:

Where did you read such a thing? BD does not use any such 'coating' on
any of its quickdraws so it's a little difficult to comment. I've
actually never heard of this. Make sure you're getting good info.

This rubber 'ring' actually has to do with holding the rope-end biner
firmly in place so it doesn't flip around when you're trying to clip it
from a tough stance (it's quicker, easier to do, etc).

It's perfectly fine to use Quicksilver or Oz Draws and/or Carabiners for
any style of climbing/mountaineering use.
LaughLaughLaughLaughLaughLaughShockedLaughLaughLaughLaughLaughLaugh


shimanilami


Jan 5, 2009, 4:42 PM
Post #28 of 35 (1059 views)
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Registered: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 2043

Re: [currupt4130] Sport Draws [In reply to]
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currupt4130 wrote:
angry wrote:
A sport draw has a special coating to resist galvanic corrosion with the bolt. Likewise, that is why there is a rubber ring inside the sport draw. To protect the webbing from this coating.

A trad draw does not have this rubber ring or coating. It saves a lot of weight but really shouldn't be attached to a bolt for this reason.

So is that why the biners I scavenged from some quick draws are eating through my slings? I've already had two slings melt through, and they both had biners from a quickdraw on them.

Dude, that's why you triple over trad draws. It provides redundancy in case one strand breaks.


tradrenn


Jan 7, 2009, 1:20 PM
Post #29 of 35 (1009 views)
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Re: [granite_grrl] Sport Draws [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
tradrenn wrote:
Instead of dogbones try using 1 foot slings and still use the rubber thingy on rope end of your draw.
I find it to be working quite well on gear and bolts.
You don't often need draws that long when you're sport climbing, but there are sport routes where it does help to have one or two like that.

That would depend on how often one sport climbs vs how often one trad climbs, wouldn't it ?

Edit: This thread is just getting better and better.


(This post was edited by tradrenn on Jan 7, 2009, 1:22 PM)


ltj999


Jan 7, 2009, 1:24 PM
Post #30 of 35 (1005 views)
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Re: [tradrenn] Sport Draws [In reply to]
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I keep 3 or 4 sport draws on my rack, I find they come in handy from time to time for clipping pins, or the occasional bolt.. no harm done :)


moof


Jan 8, 2009, 2:20 PM
Post #31 of 35 (947 views)
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Registered: Oct 17, 2003
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Re: [acadiaclmber] Sport Draws [In reply to]
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To get back to being slightly serious...

If you're mixing your "sport" draws into your trad rack, inspect them for dings and burrs first. When trad climbing it's pretty darn common to clip and go, totally ignoring the rope end versus the bolt end. As a result of this, it sucks to fuzz up your rope on a burr left from your recent sport whips.

Buff out any burrs with some emery paper, or keep those gauged/burred biners on the sport racklet.

For the record, I carry roughly a half dozen "sport" draws, half dozen 12" draws (some doubled), and a half dozen "trad" tripled draws when climbing. Depending on the route I will usually leave a few in the pack, and occasionally bring a screamer or two for pins and thin nuts.

Sport climbing is neither.


Partner angry


Jan 12, 2009, 7:55 PM
Post #32 of 35 (897 views)
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Registered: Jul 21, 2003
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Re: [keep_it_real] Sport Draws [In reply to]
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keep_it_real wrote:
I hope you weren't being sarcastic/kidding about the galvanic corrosion because I'm going to feel pretty stupid if you were. I emailed a BD Rep about it cause I'd rather not have my slings breaking. Here's what he said:

Where did you read such a thing? BD does not use any such 'coating' on
any of its quickdraws so it's a little difficult to comment. I've
actually never heard of this. Make sure you're getting good info.

This rubber 'ring' actually has to do with holding the rope-end biner
firmly in place so it doesn't flip around when you're trying to clip it
from a tough stance (it's quicker, easier to do, etc).

It's perfectly fine to use Quicksilver or Oz Draws and/or Carabiners for
any style of climbing/mountaineering use.

Oh sweet jesus that's awesome!!


billcoe_


Jan 12, 2009, 9:40 PM
Post #33 of 35 (876 views)
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4693

Re: [angry] Sport Draws [In reply to]
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Ask Angry about the need for a "Trad" Chalkbag instead of a "Sport" chalkbag. I have had mine save my ass at least twice cause I had it instead of the "Sport" Chalkbag.

I had it out just the other day was was damn fortunate too. Here it was the other day I'm following a route, it's the powder puff blue baby on my right side. My freind said it was 31 degrees back in town when He went through at 11:30 am but it may have hit 40 something although it just seemed cold. The inside of the crack was wet too.

ps, I saw Moof out there same day soloing. Helped him carry ropes in and later saw him @ just30 feet left and maybe 300+ more feet up or so. He was but a small spec in the sky. Wish I had a picture of him to post.


(This post was edited by billcoe_ on Jan 12, 2009, 9:46 PM)


blueeyedclimber


Jan 13, 2009, 7:17 AM
Post #34 of 35 (832 views)
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Registered: Nov 19, 2002
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Re: [keep_it_real] Sport Draws [In reply to]
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keep_it_real wrote:
I hope you weren't being sarcastic/kidding about the galvanic corrosion because I'm going to feel pretty stupid if you were. I emailed a BD Rep about it cause I'd rather not have my slings breaking. Here's what he said:

Where did you read such a thing? BD does not use any such 'coating' on
any of its quickdraws so it's a little difficult to comment. I've
actually never heard of this. Make sure you're getting good info.

This rubber 'ring' actually has to do with holding the rope-end biner
firmly in place so it doesn't flip around when you're trying to clip it
from a tough stance (it's quicker, easier to do, etc).

It's perfectly fine to use Quicksilver or Oz Draws and/or Carabiners for
any style of climbing/mountaineering use.

Sorry, keep_it_real, but where I'm from, they call that being "duped!"

Angry has a bad habit of saying rediculous nonsense and not putting a Laugh or aWink or a Tongue, Cool, or Smile after it.

Josh


keep_it_real


Jan 13, 2009, 7:46 AM
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Registered: Dec 25, 2008
Posts: 25

Re: [blueeyedclimber] Sport Draws [In reply to]
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makes me feel a little better...

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