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Tricks of the Trade
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moose_droppings


Feb 16, 2009, 6:33 AM
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Re: [xtrmecat] Tricks of the Trade [In reply to]
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My guess is that he refers to himself as "flamer" is because he's a firefighter.


flamer


Feb 16, 2009, 9:17 AM
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Re: [xtrmecat] Tricks of the Trade [In reply to]
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Hey Captain xtreme.....Are you retarded? Seriously?

Everything you say makes it obvious that there is something dramatically wrong with you.

My favorite is how you recommend taking pitons on a route that has gone clean easily for 11years...then lecture about the "finite resource".

By suggesting that you would like to... show me what respect is...are you threatening me? I am not the guy you want to make threat's against.

A simple click will give people a glimpse into our respective experience, I wonder if before or after implying that I was a noob you had the smarts to even look?


josh


bandycoot


Feb 16, 2009, 9:27 AM
Post #28 of 34 (1395 views)
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Re: [flamer] Tricks of the Trade [In reply to]
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Last piece of route beta that all this discussion of "finite resource" reminded me of. Bring some goggles for all the sand that's going to fall in your eyes. I had to lead quite a few pitches looking up for the next jam, then looking down while doing it. I felt I could have emptied the sand out of my eyes and created a sandbox by the end of the head wall hand jamming pitches.

Josh


garrettweaver


Feb 16, 2009, 10:15 AM
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Re: [bandycoot] Tricks of the Trade [In reply to]
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Hey everyone,

Thanks for the beta/comments. Looks like I will have to work my way up to this route by doing some of the easier trade routes, but that just sounds like fun. I will be living in Saint George UT come the end of May so if y'all need climbing partners in the area look me up.

Garrett


flamer


Feb 16, 2009, 10:21 AM
Post #30 of 34 (1376 views)
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Re: [garrettweaver] Tricks of the Trade [In reply to]
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Hey Garrett,

Upon thinking more about this route, as it applies to other routes, I'd suggest climbing some of the long free routes more than the aid lines.

Look at climbing routes like Iron messiah, Bits N' Pieces, touchstone would still be good, maybe Shune's buttress. All classic and it seems as if building up to Tricks you'll want to be doing more free climbing.

Goodluck and have fun.

josh


danabart


Feb 16, 2009, 10:35 AM
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Re: [garrettweaver] Tricks of the Trade [In reply to]
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John Middendorf did the first ascent, and he posts every once in a while on Supertopo. You could go on that site and ask him.

Dana


kevinhansen


Feb 24, 2009, 3:29 PM
Post #32 of 34 (1340 views)
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Re: [garrettweaver] Tricks of the Trade [In reply to]
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garrettweaver wrote:
I will be living in Saint George UT come the end of May so if y'all need climbing partners in the area look me up.
Garrett

I've been living in the Kanab area for the last year and partners are hard to come by. I soloed Touchstone on my 4th try. In the mean time I've been craging. Tricks o the trade is on my list, but I'd like to do other things first.
What do ya say?
I've also got a 400' rope (122 meter) ideal for FIxing and Fireing. I also have a single ledge, and I'm not afraid to use it. LOL
Kevin


garrettweaver


Feb 24, 2009, 7:25 PM
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Re: [kevinhansen] Tricks of the Trade [In reply to]
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Kevin,

For sure I will do some climbing with you. The job I will be doing has a schedule of 8 days on 6 days off. So, every other week I can climb for the whole week. Lots of free time hurray! As for routes, I'm up for everything. I have never been to zion so touchstone,prodigal sun, space shot, moonlight buttress, orgasmo, iron messiah and etcc... are all on my list. As for the summer have you checked out Lone Peak near Salt Lake? It looks like it has some great alpine climbs. In the summer months (june, july ,august) that may be a good place to hang out for a few weekends. To sum it up I will just be looking to climb long trad/aid routes, but I wont be to picky so anything you will want to climb I'm game.

P.S. Before I saw this message I actually PM'ed you about climbing so this may be a double message. Sorry about that.

Garrett
315 391 3429
weaver08@cortland.edu


Partner camhead


Feb 25, 2009, 5:27 AM
Post #34 of 34 (1321 views)
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Re: [bandycoot] Tricks of the Trade [In reply to]
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bandycoot wrote:
PS. John Middendorf is full of shit. There is no 800' handcrack out an overhanging headwall as advertised in 50 Favorite Climbs of NA. They took a shot of him on the short continuous handcrack section at the top of the headwall and hyped the climb up. There is probably 300' of good handcrack on the route.

damn. You may have well just told me that there is no Santa Claus. I've thought about this mythical 800 foot handcrack for years... now you break my dreams down.

thanks, heh.

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