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140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25?
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thenose


Feb 19, 2009, 10:03 PM
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140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25?
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Yesterday my partner and myself set out to do a free climb of the nose. We wanted to do the whole route with no aid gear (accept for pitch 31). We made it up to pitch 25 when it was my turn to lead. We were linking pitches with two 80 meter twin ropes used as half ropes for lower force. I placed a WC zero 1 cam in a super flaring crack about 10 meters past the belay station. After about 70 meters I started to get super pumped and I fell. The problem was that there was no pro between me and that last WC zero. So I fell 140 meters onto the WC zero 1 on only one twin rope. It was about a factor 1.8er. Anyway the cam held until just about when I stopped on the rope. Then the cam failed and I fell into the belay station at a factor two level. The force of the impact caused the bolted belay station to rip out of the rock. Both me and my partner fell about 250 feet until we hit a climber below us. We were able to grab onto the climber and his rope arrested our fall. Unfortunately our rope was completely disintegrated due to the fall. But the other team was nice enough to lend us a rope to rap down back to the ground. In the end it was a crazy morning and I will be more prepared next time.

So does anyone know how to get past pitch 25 with adding a bit more pro? The small flaring crack 10m above the belay station is the only thing I saw.


Partner angry


Feb 19, 2009, 10:14 PM
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Re: [thenose] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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5 star material, all the way.

Was it Burt Bronson who caught you two? He does stuff like that.


dlintz


Feb 19, 2009, 10:22 PM
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Re: [thenose] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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thenose wrote:
...So does anyone know how to get past pitch 25 with adding a bit more pro? The small flaring crack 10m above the belay station is the only thing I saw.

Sweet Jeebus, just use that little edge out to the left....it goes without extra pro.

d.


el_layclimber


Feb 19, 2009, 10:42 PM
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Re: [thenose] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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thenose wrote:
Unfortunately our rope was completely disintegrated due to the fall.
Must have been a Petzl rope. Instead of the WC 0, you should have just placed a bolt.


thenose


Feb 19, 2009, 10:44 PM
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Re: [angry] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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angry wrote:
5 star material, all the way.

Was it Burt Bronson who caught you two? He does stuff like that.

No it was david hasselhoff. He was doing a baywatch shoot in the nose area and I knew he was into climbing so I asked him if he wants to roll with me. He is fairly good we both onsighted a 13a for a warmup before we hit the nose that morning.

my partner is not relevant but the pro is.


(This post was edited by thenose on Feb 19, 2009, 10:48 PM)


thenose


Feb 19, 2009, 10:46 PM
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Re: [el_layclimber] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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el_layclimber wrote:
thenose wrote:
Unfortunately our rope was completely disintegrated due to the fall.
Must have been a Petzl rope. Instead of the WC 0, you should have just placed a bolt.

its important to me that i keep the route in original condition. many feel that adding bolts degrades a route. especially when there are trad placements close by. anyway the wc zero placement was fine aside from the fact that it was super flaring. but are there any options up higher?


northfacejmb


Feb 19, 2009, 10:54 PM
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Re: [thenose] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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Dang, its edmontonalta all over again.. You didn't happen to drop a backpack did you?


el_layclimber


Feb 20, 2009, 7:53 AM
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Re: [thenose] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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thenose wrote:
its important to me that i keep the route in original condition. many feel that adding bolts degrades a route. especially when there are trad placements close by. anyway the wc zero placement was fine aside from the fact that it was super flaring. but are there any options up higher?

Apparently not, as you felt the need to run it out 70 meters past your last piece. Next time instead of falling, just keep climbing. Oh, you are also going to need a longer rope; after all you had climbed the full 80 meters of its length before your harrowing fall.
As long as you place them by hand on lead and drunk, adding bolts is well in keeping with the original style in which the Nose was climbed.


krusher4


Feb 20, 2009, 8:55 AM
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Re: [thenose] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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hmmmm....maybe watch Dosage 4 and see what Tommy C. does....or maybe just go ask him, he lives in Yosemite now.


patmay81


Feb 20, 2009, 9:27 AM
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Re: [krusher4] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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this is either the most amusing troll ever, or the most understated epic of all time. I can't decide which I want to believe it is. I'm leaning towards understated epic, but only because it would take hasselhoff to catch a fall like that!


krusher4


Feb 20, 2009, 9:31 AM
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Re: [patmay81] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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I would really like to belive the story....but rc.com is not the best place for true stories LOL.


a-e-jones


Feb 20, 2009, 10:38 AM
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Re: [patmay81] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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no defenitly a troll


a-e-jones


Feb 20, 2009, 10:40 AM
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Re: [thenose] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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so how much impact force do you think the climber 250 feet below you recieved

these trolls really are ruining rc.com


Partner angry


Feb 20, 2009, 10:43 AM
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Re: [a-e-jones] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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a-e-jones wrote:
so how much impact force do you think the climber 250 feet below you recieved

these trolls really are ruining rc.com

No, they're making it more fun.


yokese


Feb 20, 2009, 10:46 AM
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Re: [patmay81] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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patmay81 wrote:
this is either the most amusing troll ever, or the most understated epic of all time.

I think is neither. T1, perhaps T1+.


krusher4


Feb 20, 2009, 10:48 AM
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Re: [yokese] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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Ohhhh it's like that fall in the opening of "Vertical Limit" so the OP say's something simlar happened to them "3 cams won't hold....you'll have to cut them loose" but instead the other climbers gave them a 'spare' rope.


brotherbbock


Feb 20, 2009, 10:51 AM
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Re: [thenose] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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holy crap you are the man. this should have been filmed and put on the sharp end movie. glad you guys are ok. that must have been exciting running it out so far.


kennoyce


Feb 20, 2009, 11:01 AM
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Sounds like a blast, If you are ever in need of a partner let me know.

So to answer your question, I think that you must have been off route. I was under the impression that you can't go more than about 30 feet without running into a bolt on the nose, so you must have been doing a new variation.

Great job, the only thing I don't get is why you rapped back down, you had another rope, so you should have given it another go.


itstoearly


Feb 20, 2009, 11:18 AM
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Re: [kennoyce] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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Why didnt you just reach out and grab one of the many hand placements along that route to arrest your fall? Seems like the easier solution to me.

Either that, or you could just use less pro so you don't pump out and fall.


(This post was edited by itstoearly on Feb 20, 2009, 11:20 AM)


graniteboy


Feb 20, 2009, 1:50 PM
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Re: [thenose] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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The pro is great on pitch 25. But for you sissies, the answer is to lead with a 1000 meter rope. That way, instead of taking a force factor 2 fall, you 'll simply ground out before ripping the belay station.
Then your partner and david Hasselhof can rap directly down to you to loot your wallet.


dynosore


Feb 20, 2009, 1:57 PM
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Re: [thenose] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Yesterday my partner and myself set out to do a free climb of the nose. We wanted to do the whole route with no aid gear (accept for pitch 31). We made it up to pitch 25 when it was my turn to lead. We were linking pitches with two 80 meter twin ropes used as half ropes for lower force. I placed a WC zero 1 cam in a super flaring crack about 10 meters past the belay station. After about 70 meters I started to get super pumped and I fell. The problem was that there was no pro between me and that last WC zero. So I fell 140 meters onto the WC zero 1 on only one twin rope. It was about a factor 1.8er. Anyway the cam held until just about when I stopped on the rope. Then the cam failed and I fell into the belay station at a factor two level.

Sounds like you need to work on your protection skills, that zero should have held.


(This post was edited by dynosore on Feb 20, 2009, 1:58 PM)


northfacejmb


Feb 20, 2009, 4:37 PM
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Ya, I agree with dynosore. If your placements are pulling from 140m falls you need someone to show you how to make better placements.


rhythm164


Feb 20, 2009, 4:50 PM
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i remember this time I jumped a chasm ropeless, took a hundred footer and stuck the opposite side of the wall with the two ice tools I jumped with...oh wait that was Vertical Limit, nevermind.


rockandlice


Feb 20, 2009, 5:47 PM
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Pffffft, you fell?


FAIL


Hennessey


Feb 20, 2009, 8:51 PM
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b b b b Bullshit. 250 foot fall.


jpetsch123


Feb 20, 2009, 9:23 PM
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Last time i was up there, i found gear around 54 meters... a bomber fifi hook duct taped to a micro flake. I'd take falls onto that thing all day.


thenose


Feb 20, 2009, 11:39 PM
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Hennessey wrote:
b b b b Bullshit. 250 foot fall.
it was 140 meters not 250 feet


thenose


Feb 20, 2009, 11:40 PM
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krusher4 wrote:
Ohhhh it's like that fall in the opening of "Vertical Limit" so the OP say's something simlar happened to them "3 cams won't hold....you'll have to cut them loose" but instead the other climbers gave them a 'spare' rope.
i have proof that it happened if you dont believe me


majid_sabet


Feb 20, 2009, 11:45 PM
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thenose wrote:
Hennessey wrote:
b b b b Bullshit. 250 foot fall.
it was 140 meters not 250 feet




majid_sabet


Feb 20, 2009, 11:48 PM
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el_layclimber


Feb 21, 2009, 12:25 AM
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I think I figured this out - did you have your dog up there? Damn mutt probably blew your concentration for the onsight. Next time you will know better.


avalon420


Feb 21, 2009, 11:35 AM
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thenose wrote:
krusher4 wrote:
Ohhhh it's like that fall in the opening of "Vertical Limit" so the OP say's something simlar happened to them "3 cams won't hold....you'll have to cut them loose" but instead the other climbers gave them a 'spare' rope.
i have proof that it happened if you dont believe me
Whale then i would just luuuv to see it.


USnavy


Feb 24, 2009, 11:00 PM
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fun story. next time get it on video


krusher4


Feb 25, 2009, 7:36 AM
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avalon420 wrote:
thenose wrote:
krusher4 wrote:
Ohhhh it's like that fall in the opening of "Vertical Limit" so the OP say's something simlar happened to them "3 cams won't hold....you'll have to cut them loose" but instead the other climbers gave them a 'spare' rope.
i have proof that it happened if you dont believe me
Whale then i would just luuuv to see it.


Ok thenose we'd all love to see proof of this?


ken21il


Feb 26, 2009, 1:01 PM
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hes also on facebook


fishclimb


Feb 26, 2009, 4:24 PM
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Just for fun, because I'm a physical science teacher.

Home boy fell at 117.28 miles per hour.
Feel free to check my math. This is where I got the equations. http://www.glenbrook.k12.il.us/GBSSCI/PHYS/Class/1DKin/U1L5d.html (Assuming that Home Boy fell at a constant 9.8 m/s/s ignoring wind friction and bouncing off rocks.


(This post was edited by fishclimb on Feb 26, 2009, 4:26 PM)


fishclimb


Feb 26, 2009, 4:56 PM
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a-e-jones wrote:
so how much impact force do you think the climber 250 feet below you recieved

Other climbing math.
17.2 KN. Assuming Home Boy weighs 180lbs and it took .25s to decelerate.

Of course there are other factors. Like the elasticity of the human body, helmets and if Home Boy had recently been exposed to Kryptonite.


(This post was edited by fishclimb on Feb 26, 2009, 5:05 PM)


Shuffleblade


Feb 26, 2009, 6:57 PM
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haha dude I really like people that keep their stuff together and know their shit XD
haha thanks for doing this for fun, it really was entertaining :P
Like 17kn would tear a limb off XD
So much for "catching" someone
Really thanks alot for this XD


desertwanderer81


Mar 6, 2009, 9:55 AM
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PFFFT, you deniers are all newbs. This is totally doable, but only if the guy catching David Haslhoff is Stalone.


barkandbite


Mar 18, 2009, 9:38 AM
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everyone who replied to the OP thinking for one hot second that this was real, please run naked around the outsiede of your house or apt. bldg twice as penance. And i hope it's cold where you areWink


(This post was edited by barkandbite on Mar 18, 2009, 10:44 AM)


desertwanderer81


Mar 18, 2009, 9:47 AM
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SHRINKAGE!!!!!


Lazlo


Mar 18, 2009, 10:02 AM
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thenose wrote:
Yesterday my partner and myself set out to do a free climb of the nose. We wanted to do the whole route with no aid gear (accept for pitch 31). We made it up to pitch 25 when it was my turn to lead. We were linking pitches with two 80 meter twin ropes used as half ropes for lower force. I placed a WC zero 1 cam in a super flaring crack about 10 meters past the belay station. After about 70 meters I started to get super pumped and I fell. The problem was that there was no pro between me and that last WC zero. So I fell 140 meters onto the WC zero 1 on only one twin rope. It was about a factor 1.8er. Anyway the cam held until just about when I stopped on the rope. Then the cam failed and I fell into the belay station at a factor two level. The force of the impact caused the bolted belay station to rip out of the rock. Both me and my partner fell about 250 feet until we hit a climber below us. We were able to grab onto the climber and his rope arrested our fall. Unfortunately our rope was completely disintegrated due to the fall. But the other team was nice enough to lend us a rope to rap down back to the ground. In the end it was a crazy morning and I will be more prepared next time.

So does anyone know how to get past pitch 25 with adding a bit more pro? The small flaring crack 10m above the belay station is the only thing I saw.

I was entertained. Anyone care for some mutton?


Lazlo


Mar 18, 2009, 10:06 AM
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thenose wrote:
Yesterday my partner and myself set out to do a free climb of the nose. We wanted to do the whole route with no aid gear (accept for pitch 31). We made it up to pitch 25 when it was my turn to lead. We were linking pitches with two 80 meter twin ropes used as half ropes for lower force. I placed a WC zero 1 cam in a super flaring crack about 10 meters past the belay station. After about 70 meters I started to get super pumped and I fell. The problem was that there was no pro between me and that last WC zero. So I fell 140 meters onto the WC zero 1 on only one twin rope. It was about a factor 1.8er. Anyway the cam held until just about when I stopped on the rope. Then the cam failed and I fell into the belay station at a factor two level. The force of the impact caused the bolted belay station to rip out of the rock. Both me and my partner fell about 250 feet until we hit a climber below us. We were able to grab onto the climber and his rope arrested our fall. Unfortunately our rope was completely disintegrated due to the fall. But the other team was nice enough to lend us a rope to rap down back to the ground. In the end it was a crazy morning and I will be more prepared next time.

So does anyone know how to get past pitch 25 with adding a bit more pro? The small flaring crack 10m above the belay station is the only thing I saw.

I just read it again. Fun read. I gave it five stars.


mar_leclerc


Mar 18, 2009, 7:08 PM
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Re: [thenose] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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thenose wrote:
Both me and my partner fell about 250 feet until we hit a climber below us. We were able to grab onto the climber and his rope arrested our fall.

HAHAHAHA.. thats friggin awesome! WAY beter than Vertical Limit!


thenose


Jun 4, 2010, 1:36 AM
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Re: [a-e-jones] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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a-e-jones wrote:
no defenitly a troll
uh no.


Partner j_ung


Jun 4, 2010, 5:35 AM
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Re: [itstoearly] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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itstoearly wrote:
...you could just use less pro so you don't pump out and fall.

YES! Winner! Laugh


rangerrob


Jun 4, 2010, 4:51 PM
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Re: [j_ung] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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What movie was that scenario taken from?


milesenoell


Jun 4, 2010, 5:51 PM
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Re: [mar_leclerc] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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mar_leclerc wrote:
thenose wrote:
Both me and my partner fell about 250 feet until we hit a climber below us. We were able to grab onto the climber and his rope arrested our fall.

HAHAHAHA.. thats friggin awesome! WAY beter than Vertical Limit!

So much better! In Vertical Limit its just the rope catching around another climber, in this scenario not one, but both fallers actually arrest their falls by grabbing the climber himself. The impact of each incoming faller would have to be like getting hit by a car, and yet he's just happy to help out and lend them a rope while continuing up the route.


(This post was edited by milesenoell on Jun 4, 2010, 6:02 PM)


jeremy11


Jun 5, 2010, 9:15 AM
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Re: [milesenoell] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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I'm surprised you didn't pass a bolted belay station after 80 meters of climbing, if you did, it would have been wise to clip it. Also, there's a good chance there is some fixed gear up there somewhere as well. Clip that too.
The most surprising thing is that you were able to self rescue (with a bit of help from Newton or whoever caught you) and that you then went home, and promptly woke up the next morning and posted your mini epic on rc.com.
I'd think a rad 5.13 big wall climber would be able to figure out how to protect the nose well enough that he wouldn't have to ask us how to do it.


moose_droppings


Jun 5, 2010, 10:00 AM
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Re: [thenose] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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thenose wrote:
a-e-jones wrote:
no defenitly a troll
uh no.

You just couldn't let a year old troll die?
Tongue


thenose


Jun 5, 2010, 10:35 AM
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curt


Jun 5, 2010, 11:02 AM
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thenose wrote:
Yesterday my partner and myself set out to do a free climb of the nose. We wanted to do the whole route with no aid gear (accept for pitch 31). We made it up to pitch 25 when it was my turn to lead. We were linking pitches with two 80 meter twin ropes used as half ropes for lower force. I placed a WC zero 1 cam in a super flaring crack about 10 meters past the belay station. After about 70 meters I started to get super pumped and I fell. The problem was that there was no pro between me and that last WC zero. So I fell 140 meters onto the WC zero 1 on only one twin rope. It was about a factor 1.8er. Anyway the cam held until just about when I stopped on the rope. Then the cam failed and I fell into the belay station at a factor two level. The force of the impact caused the bolted belay station to rip out of the rock. Both me and my partner fell about 250 feet until we hit a climber below us. We were able to grab onto the climber and his rope arrested our fall. Unfortunately our rope was completely disintegrated due to the fall. But the other team was nice enough to lend us a rope to rap down back to the ground. In the end it was a crazy morning and I will be more prepared next time...

Nice trip report. Since you have now established that spotting alone provides an adequate safety margin, I suggest you dispense with the gear and ropes altogether on your next attempt.

Curt


acorneau


Jun 5, 2010, 11:33 AM
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Re: [jeremy11] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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jeremy11 wrote:
I'm surprised you didn't pass a bolted belay station after 80 meters of climbing, if you did, it would have been wise to clip it.


Perhaps, but don't clip it using a PAS because it can't take fall-factor 265.97. A Chain Reactor might be close, and a Purcell Prusik would probably be better.

Best not to chance it and just use a clove hitch.


irregularpanda


Jun 5, 2010, 11:40 AM
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Re: [thenose] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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thenose wrote:
moose_droppings wrote:
thenose wrote:
a-e-jones wrote:
no defenitly a troll
uh no.

You just couldn't let a year old troll die?
Tongue
no, no one has answered my question yet. i know there are pro options up there somewhere!

Black Alien bro.


irregularpanda


Jun 5, 2010, 1:35 PM
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Re: [rangerrob] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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rangerrob wrote:
What movie was that scenario taken from?

Vertical Limit, opening scene.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IFaJt62cEEo

See if you can find the 700 mistakes that real climbers wouldn't do.


iknowfear


Jun 5, 2010, 1:54 PM
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irregularpanda wrote:
rangerrob wrote:
What movie was that scenario taken from?

Vertical Limit, opening scene.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IFaJt62cEEo

See if you can find the 700 mistakes that real climbers wouldn't do.

Come on: at least post the Vertical limit guide to climbing:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uxtg7raPDYo


irregularpanda


Jun 5, 2010, 2:27 PM
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iknowfear wrote:
irregularpanda wrote:
rangerrob wrote:
What movie was that scenario taken from?

Vertical Limit, opening scene.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IFaJt62cEEo

See if you can find the 700 mistakes that real climbers wouldn't do.

Come on: at least post the Vertical limit guide to climbing:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uxtg7raPDYo

YES! When climbing with 3: Don't put your partner on belay from above, wait until after the dyno and then put them on belay from below!


crjanow


Jun 5, 2010, 4:41 PM
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Re: [thenose] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
thenose wrote:
Yesterday my partner and myself set out to do a free climb of the nose. We wanted to do the whole route with no aid gear (accept for pitch 31). We made it up to pitch 25 when it was my turn to lead. We were linking pitches with two 80 meter twin ropes used as half ropes for lower force. I placed a WC zero 1 cam in a super flaring crack about 10 meters past the belay station. After about 70 meters I started to get super pumped and I fell. The problem was that there was no pro between me and that last WC zero. So I fell 140 meters onto the WC zero 1 on only one twin rope. It was about a factor 1.8er. Anyway the cam held until just about when I stopped on the rope. Then the cam failed and I fell into the belay station at a factor two level. The force of the impact caused the bolted belay station to rip out of the rock. Both me and my partner fell about 250 feet until we hit a climber below us. We were able to grab onto the climber and his rope arrested our fall. Unfortunately our rope was completely disintegrated due to the fall. But the other team was nice enough to lend us a rope to rap down back to the ground. In the end it was a crazy morning and I will be more prepared next time.

So does anyone know how to get past pitch 25 with adding a bit more pro? The small flaring crack 10m above the belay station is the only thing I saw.
same thing happend to me except i was hip belaying and the impact tore my thong off and left me hanging there 2500 foot up naked and no rope. luckily i was able to downclimb back to the ground.Shocked


Gmburns2000


Jun 5, 2010, 5:12 PM
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Re: [irregularpanda] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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irregularpanda wrote:
rangerrob wrote:
What movie was that scenario taken from?

Vertical Limit, opening scene.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IFaJt62cEEo

See if you can find the 700 mistakes that real climbers wouldn't do.

well, for one, I wouldn't have landed on my back like that.


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