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140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25?
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jpetsch123


Feb 20, 2009, 9:23 PM
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Re: [thenose] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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Last time i was up there, i found gear around 54 meters... a bomber fifi hook duct taped to a micro flake. I'd take falls onto that thing all day.


thenose


Feb 20, 2009, 11:39 PM
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Re: [Hennessey] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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Hennessey wrote:
b b b b Bullshit. 250 foot fall.
it was 140 meters not 250 feet


thenose


Feb 20, 2009, 11:40 PM
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Re: [krusher4] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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krusher4 wrote:
Ohhhh it's like that fall in the opening of "Vertical Limit" so the OP say's something simlar happened to them "3 cams won't hold....you'll have to cut them loose" but instead the other climbers gave them a 'spare' rope.
i have proof that it happened if you dont believe me


majid_sabet


Feb 20, 2009, 11:45 PM
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Re: [thenose] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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thenose wrote:
Hennessey wrote:
b b b b Bullshit. 250 foot fall.
it was 140 meters not 250 feet




majid_sabet


Feb 20, 2009, 11:48 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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el_layclimber


Feb 21, 2009, 12:25 AM
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Re: [thenose] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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I think I figured this out - did you have your dog up there? Damn mutt probably blew your concentration for the onsight. Next time you will know better.


avalon420


Feb 21, 2009, 11:35 AM
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Re: [thenose] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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thenose wrote:
krusher4 wrote:
Ohhhh it's like that fall in the opening of "Vertical Limit" so the OP say's something simlar happened to them "3 cams won't hold....you'll have to cut them loose" but instead the other climbers gave them a 'spare' rope.
i have proof that it happened if you dont believe me
Whale then i would just luuuv to see it.


USnavy


Feb 24, 2009, 11:00 PM
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Re: [] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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fun story. next time get it on video


krusher4


Feb 25, 2009, 7:36 AM
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Re: [avalon420] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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avalon420 wrote:
thenose wrote:
krusher4 wrote:
Ohhhh it's like that fall in the opening of "Vertical Limit" so the OP say's something simlar happened to them "3 cams won't hold....you'll have to cut them loose" but instead the other climbers gave them a 'spare' rope.
i have proof that it happened if you dont believe me
Whale then i would just luuuv to see it.


Ok thenose we'd all love to see proof of this?


ken21il


Feb 26, 2009, 1:01 PM
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Re: [krusher4] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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hes also on facebook


fishclimb


Feb 26, 2009, 4:24 PM
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Re: [ken21il] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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Just for fun, because I'm a physical science teacher.

Home boy fell at 117.28 miles per hour.
Feel free to check my math. This is where I got the equations. http://www.glenbrook.k12.il.us/GBSSCI/PHYS/Class/1DKin/U1L5d.html (Assuming that Home Boy fell at a constant 9.8 m/s/s ignoring wind friction and bouncing off rocks.


(This post was edited by fishclimb on Feb 26, 2009, 4:26 PM)


fishclimb


Feb 26, 2009, 4:56 PM
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Re: [a-e-jones] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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a-e-jones wrote:
so how much impact force do you think the climber 250 feet below you recieved

Other climbing math.
17.2 KN. Assuming Home Boy weighs 180lbs and it took .25s to decelerate.

Of course there are other factors. Like the elasticity of the human body, helmets and if Home Boy had recently been exposed to Kryptonite.


(This post was edited by fishclimb on Feb 26, 2009, 5:05 PM)


Shuffleblade


Feb 26, 2009, 6:57 PM
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Re: [fishclimb] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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haha dude I really like people that keep their stuff together and know their shit XD
haha thanks for doing this for fun, it really was entertaining :P
Like 17kn would tear a limb off XD
So much for "catching" someone
Really thanks alot for this XD


desertwanderer81


Mar 6, 2009, 9:55 AM
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Re: [thenose] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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PFFFT, you deniers are all newbs. This is totally doable, but only if the guy catching David Haslhoff is Stalone.


barkandbite


Mar 18, 2009, 9:38 AM
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Re: [desertwanderer81] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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everyone who replied to the OP thinking for one hot second that this was real, please run naked around the outsiede of your house or apt. bldg twice as penance. And i hope it's cold where you areWink


(This post was edited by barkandbite on Mar 18, 2009, 10:44 AM)


desertwanderer81


Mar 18, 2009, 9:47 AM
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Re: [barkandbite] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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SHRINKAGE!!!!!


Lazlo


Mar 18, 2009, 10:02 AM
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Re: [thenose] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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thenose wrote:
Yesterday my partner and myself set out to do a free climb of the nose. We wanted to do the whole route with no aid gear (accept for pitch 31). We made it up to pitch 25 when it was my turn to lead. We were linking pitches with two 80 meter twin ropes used as half ropes for lower force. I placed a WC zero 1 cam in a super flaring crack about 10 meters past the belay station. After about 70 meters I started to get super pumped and I fell. The problem was that there was no pro between me and that last WC zero. So I fell 140 meters onto the WC zero 1 on only one twin rope. It was about a factor 1.8er. Anyway the cam held until just about when I stopped on the rope. Then the cam failed and I fell into the belay station at a factor two level. The force of the impact caused the bolted belay station to rip out of the rock. Both me and my partner fell about 250 feet until we hit a climber below us. We were able to grab onto the climber and his rope arrested our fall. Unfortunately our rope was completely disintegrated due to the fall. But the other team was nice enough to lend us a rope to rap down back to the ground. In the end it was a crazy morning and I will be more prepared next time.

So does anyone know how to get past pitch 25 with adding a bit more pro? The small flaring crack 10m above the belay station is the only thing I saw.

I was entertained. Anyone care for some mutton?


Lazlo


Mar 18, 2009, 10:06 AM
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Re: [thenose] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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thenose wrote:
Yesterday my partner and myself set out to do a free climb of the nose. We wanted to do the whole route with no aid gear (accept for pitch 31). We made it up to pitch 25 when it was my turn to lead. We were linking pitches with two 80 meter twin ropes used as half ropes for lower force. I placed a WC zero 1 cam in a super flaring crack about 10 meters past the belay station. After about 70 meters I started to get super pumped and I fell. The problem was that there was no pro between me and that last WC zero. So I fell 140 meters onto the WC zero 1 on only one twin rope. It was about a factor 1.8er. Anyway the cam held until just about when I stopped on the rope. Then the cam failed and I fell into the belay station at a factor two level. The force of the impact caused the bolted belay station to rip out of the rock. Both me and my partner fell about 250 feet until we hit a climber below us. We were able to grab onto the climber and his rope arrested our fall. Unfortunately our rope was completely disintegrated due to the fall. But the other team was nice enough to lend us a rope to rap down back to the ground. In the end it was a crazy morning and I will be more prepared next time.

So does anyone know how to get past pitch 25 with adding a bit more pro? The small flaring crack 10m above the belay station is the only thing I saw.

I just read it again. Fun read. I gave it five stars.


mar_leclerc


Mar 18, 2009, 7:08 PM
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Re: [thenose] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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thenose wrote:
Both me and my partner fell about 250 feet until we hit a climber below us. We were able to grab onto the climber and his rope arrested our fall.

HAHAHAHA.. thats friggin awesome! WAY beter than Vertical Limit!


thenose


Jun 4, 2010, 1:36 AM
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Re: [a-e-jones] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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a-e-jones wrote:
no defenitly a troll
uh no.


Partner j_ung


Jun 4, 2010, 5:35 AM
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Re: [itstoearly] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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itstoearly wrote:
...you could just use less pro so you don't pump out and fall.

YES! Winner! Laugh


rangerrob


Jun 4, 2010, 4:51 PM
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Re: [j_ung] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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What movie was that scenario taken from?


milesenoell


Jun 4, 2010, 5:51 PM
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Re: [mar_leclerc] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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mar_leclerc wrote:
thenose wrote:
Both me and my partner fell about 250 feet until we hit a climber below us. We were able to grab onto the climber and his rope arrested our fall.

HAHAHAHA.. thats friggin awesome! WAY beter than Vertical Limit!

So much better! In Vertical Limit its just the rope catching around another climber, in this scenario not one, but both fallers actually arrest their falls by grabbing the climber himself. The impact of each incoming faller would have to be like getting hit by a car, and yet he's just happy to help out and lend them a rope while continuing up the route.


(This post was edited by milesenoell on Jun 4, 2010, 6:02 PM)


jeremy11


Jun 5, 2010, 9:15 AM
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Re: [milesenoell] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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I'm surprised you didn't pass a bolted belay station after 80 meters of climbing, if you did, it would have been wise to clip it. Also, there's a good chance there is some fixed gear up there somewhere as well. Clip that too.
The most surprising thing is that you were able to self rescue (with a bit of help from Newton or whoever caught you) and that you then went home, and promptly woke up the next morning and posted your mini epic on rc.com.
I'd think a rad 5.13 big wall climber would be able to figure out how to protect the nose well enough that he wouldn't have to ask us how to do it.


moose_droppings


Jun 5, 2010, 10:00 AM
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Re: [thenose] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25? [In reply to]
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thenose wrote:
a-e-jones wrote:
no defenitly a troll
uh no.

You just couldn't let a year old troll die?
Tongue

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