clintcummins
Feb 27, 2009, 9:13 AM
Post #76 of 76
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Registered: Nov 1, 2002
Posts: 135
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shimanilami wrote: clintcummins wrote: If there is a high risk of a fall before getting the first gear in the next pitch, or if the gear is not good, the belayer can hang say 20' below the belay anchor, tethered by their rope. Then the leader clips the belay anchor as their first protection.... This is an interesting concept that I never considered before. In addition the the things Clint mentions, this arrangement effectively eliminates the possibility of a FF2 fall because he's put ~20 ft of additional rope out before the climber has even left the anchor.
Yes, technically it does prevent a FF2 fall. However, as others have pointed out, the load on the anchor is still very high because the belayer counterweights the leader (what one person called a "pulley effect").
Having the leader clip the anchor with a screamer might absorb some of the load, though.
And you do get those other advantages, like the belayer has a decreased risk of getting hit by the falling leader.
(This post was edited by clintcummins on Feb 27, 2009, 9:14 AM)
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