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brutusofwyde
Dec 1, 2002, 1:10 AM
Post #26 of 28
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Registered: Nov 3, 2002
Posts: 1473
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Ahhh, hooking.
Get beta on the route you're doing. Some routes require the huge hooks (Fish hook and larger) some require specialized hooks (such as the "enchanted" hooks needed for ZM.)
Big hooks are pretty strong. Duct taping these things in bomber placements with screamers attached is WAY better than breezing on through without any pro. Especially when you leak onto that unprotected 5.7 slab after 50 feet of pure hooking.
Talons, grappling hooks and standard Chouinard "sky hooks" are the foundation of the hooking rack, build from there.
Ditto what has been said about Cam Hooks. I wouldn't get on a wall without them.
Brutus
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mrhardgrit
Dec 2, 2002, 11:24 PM
Post #27 of 28
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Registered: Nov 28, 2001
Posts: 153
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Definitely file a number of your hooks to make them pointed. These are particularly advantagous when you can't get a visual on the hook placement you're about to make, as often a blind placement (even with feeling around with your fingers) with a normal hook will not make complete contact with the entire hook edge. This can lead to you standing up to the piece and seeing just a mm or 2 on the edge of a crystal... hmmmm!!
Be careful not to use any hooks that don't have enough horizontal clearance from the rock face - leads to too much leverage.
T
Oh one other thing .... if you're doing a any reachy hooking traverses. If I'm making a big sideways reach to the next hook, I set the hook at angle just off vertical (towards me) to that when I have to do the inevitable splits maveouvor to my aiders, the hook doesn't just rock off in the other direction as you have already made some compensation.
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spike
Dec 3, 2002, 3:21 PM
Post #28 of 28
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Registered: Dec 3, 2001
Posts: 127
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Hook moves on Prodigal Sun - YES.
I remember 3 hook moves.
Scott did a hook move just after the start of P3. I could have done a hook move on the start of P4, but forgot about it and did a reachy move. I did a hook move on P7 - at the start of P7 are a couple bolts, then 2 blown out piton scars in a row. I remember just after the 2nd blown out piton scars is a small ledge. Great hook placement on the small ledge.
Click on this link to see a BD Sky Hook that I filed down to a Finger Hook. This hook worked great on Lunar Ecstasy in Zion, P7 the "Amoeba Pitch" that called for a bat hook.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/photos/jump.cgi?Detailed=8956 BBCode auto-link end -->
[ This Message was edited by: spike on 2002-12-03 10:36 ]
[ This Message was edited by: spike on 2002-12-03 10:40 ]
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