Apr 16, 2009, 3:45 AM
Post #5 of 73
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Re: [Terry2124] Do you have a set of Hex's on your rack?
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Definitely. I skip the smaller ones that are in the stopper range, but all the big ones go. I think that I have metolius 6-10 on my rack. They are the most useful sizes in my opinion.
I carry the 5 med-large size WC rockcentrics. Green through Purple, which match up perfectly in color and size to BD Camalots .75-4. I use them as the doubles of my med-large cams, and I don't carry a #3 or 4 cam (too big and heavy) unless I'm planning on climbing an OW, so they cover my big stuff if I really need it. I like the fact that they are lighter, cheaper and more versitile than a second set of cams.
I recently climbed at an area nearby called Boxcar Rocks (you can find it in the routes DB). It is large pebble conglomerate, and cams are just ugly in the stuff! They tend to umbrella and twist into ugly positions between the big pebbles. They only pieces that worked were large nuts and hexes.
I take the biggest hex with me on every climb just to see if I can find somewhere to place it. The funny thing is, if I were to bring the next size down I could place it on almost every climb I have ever done.
Apr 16, 2009, 2:54 PM
Post #19 of 73
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Re: [Terry2124] Do you have a set of Hex's on your rack?
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I own 4 hexes. Metolius 7,8,9 and BD 10. I do use them when I am alpine climbing just to save weight on easy routes, but that is about the only time that they come out to play.
Apr 16, 2009, 3:00 PM
Post #20 of 73
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Re: [Terry2124] Do you have a set of Hex's on your rack?
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I own a full set of BD's but I lost the wired #1 and #2 last year.
The wired #1-3 stay on the biner with the nuts, the rest are used for teaching/setting top-rope anchors. I don't carry them when leading and I don't do any alpine stuff.
I own a full set of BD's but I lost the wired #1 and #2 last year.
The wired #1-3 stay on the biner with the nuts, the rest are used for teaching/setting top-rope anchors. I don't carry them when leading and I don't do any alpine stuff.
I also use some of the smaller wired BD hexes, racked with my nuts. I haven't used large hexes for about 10 years where I sold mine to a friend.
Apr 16, 2009, 5:00 PM
Post #25 of 73
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Re: [Terry2124] Do you have a set of Hex's on your rack?
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BD Hexentrics 1-6.
I like them for horizontal seams, and sometimes I find little holes that they slip into perfectly. I don't carry many cams because they make you weak (sarcasm, in a way), and I mostly climb alpine.
so, almost all of the big hex proponents in this thread climb 5.9 trad or below, according to their profiles.
This is with the exception of Kennoyce, who admitted to only using them on alpine terrain, and Joeforte, who apparently just climbs pretty well. heh.
But beyond that, most trad climbers stop using their hexes when they start pushing the limits a bit.
My hexes dropped off my rack a number of years back, but over the last 4 or 5 years I've consistently kept the #'s 5-9 on my rack and use them quite a bit, even when just cragging. I don't like doubling cams (sandstone excepted) and the hexes are lightweight and handy, and often build the most bomber belays imaginable. After more than 25 yrs I can still manage to climb 5.11 trad routes using them, so don't discount them as just for gumbies. I don't foresee ever taking hexes or tri-cams off my rack.
so, almost all of the big hex proponents in this thread climb 5.9 trad or below, according to their profiles.
This is with the exception of Kennoyce, who admitted to only using them on alpine terrain, and Joeforte, who apparently just climbs pretty well. heh.
But beyond that, most trad climbers stop using their hexes when they start pushing the limits a bit.
You can add me to the pool of gumbies or whatever who carry hexes. I'm pretty weak - my hardest trad onsight is around 11c. If only I didn't have those cowbells slowing me down, I'm sure I'd be climbing 5.16x, right?
Apr 16, 2009, 5:46 PM
Post #28 of 73
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Re: [cracklover] Do you have a set of Hex's on your rack?
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I own hex's but haven't used them in years. I used to take them alpine climbing because: light weight and cheaper to leave behind. However, after I got a good quality scale and weighed them, the weight saving's just weren't that big of deal. I don't know if it is still true, but the figures that WC was putting out for the Rockcentrics were complete BS. The weight was only a little off, but the size in the catalogues were way off. So looking in the catalog, you would think that the Hex #x was comparable in size to cam #y, but Hec #x wasn't really that big so the comparison should be with a smaller, lighter cam. And for medium/large cams, I typically use friends which are still lighter than the C4s.
For weight savings in the alpine environment, I typically only carry single cams in hands up and carry extra cams in finger/ringlock size.
I've not had to make too many rap anchors and have managed with stoppers and leaving slings when I have.
I use hexes regularly on alpine rock climbs, partly for the weight savings reason as SP notes above. However, I also carry them because, in the highly fractured rock that you find on alpine routes, Cams are frequently unsafe. Cams can push open cracks that a passive piece, like a hex, would not.
I'm surprised that more people who do alpine rock routes do not think of this....it is a problem that has been noted since Ray Jardine invented the Friend about 30ish years ago......
And a number of well documented deaths have occured due to cams pushing open less than solid cracks, leading to protection and or anchor failure....
Apr 16, 2009, 10:34 PM
Post #32 of 73
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Re: [Terry2124] Do you have a set of Hex's on your rack?
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I bought a #10 BD hex and a #4 C4 when I first started climbing on gear (about 5 years ago) for a specific climb. I haven't used the hex since then, in fact its the one piece that has stayed at home every climbing trip over the last 5 years.
so, almost all of the big hex proponents in this thread climb 5.9 trad or below, according to their profiles.
This is with the exception of Kennoyce, who admitted to only using them on alpine terrain, and Joeforte, who apparently just climbs pretty well. heh.
But beyond that, most trad climbers stop using their hexes when they start pushing the limits a bit.
My hexes dropped off my rack a number of years back, but over the last 4 or 5 years I've consistently kept the #'s 5-9 on my rack and use them quite a bit, even when just cragging. I don't like doubling cams (sandstone excepted) and the hexes are lightweight and handy, and often build the most bomber belays imaginable. After more than 25 yrs I can still manage to climb 5.11 trad routes using them, so don't discount them as just for gumbies. I don't foresee ever taking hexes or tri-cams off my rack.
I love carrying them in the gunks. Everyone hears the cowbells and starts snickering. Then they look around to try to find the gumby, only to realize that it's someone on a 5.11. The look on their face is priceless, and I can see them pondering "maybe I should get a few hexes?" CLASSIC!!!
I have a double set of the larger hexes. They make good lighter weight replacements for the big cams in my pack when doing long heinous approaches. They are also cheap as hell, so leaving them hurts much less than bailing on other gear!
May 9, 2009, 5:05 PM
Post #39 of 73
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Re: [desertdude420] Do you have a set of Hex's on your rack?
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I have a full set of BD. They come out of the box for: - Gear pictures - solo aid climbs (just for the fact of more gear available to me)
Oh, and I tend to at least have them in the car. If I have to bail off a route on expensive gear, I can jumar back up and replace it with a hex or two. ...Though after replacing the slings with spectra, the cost of each hex essentially doubled. Damn me and my love for spectra.
I carry the 5 med-large size WC rockcentrics. Green through Purple,
Yep the WC rockcentrics rule, i carry silver-gold, likewise in lieu of carrying some extra cams (and also instead of doubling some nuts), and place them just about every pitch. I often double the gold and red, typically using at least one on the pitch and more often the gold up top on the anchor.
Very light tend to fit things great and you just know they're not coming out when in there. I love the dyneema slings vs wire on bds.
bds probalby fine for TR anchor but I wouldn't carry them for lead.
May 11, 2009, 11:50 PM
Post #45 of 73
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Re: [justroberto] Do you have a set of Hex's on your rack?
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I had a full set of BD hexes, then lost several because I bailed on them off of an alpine route when a thunderstorm came on fast, and I replaced them just as cheap pieces to bail off of. Im surprised no one has mentioned this yet but Id hate to bail off a $50 cam when I could just as easily bail off of a $10 hex.
May 12, 2009, 9:02 AM
Post #50 of 73
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Re: [Terry2124] Do you have a set of Hex's on your rack?
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Yup, I have them (WC rockcentrics) Yup, I use them.
As others have stated, they are lighter than cams and cheaper (so if I'd have to bail I'd rather leave one)
They also make really great, confidence boosting pro, once you've taken the time to place them. Sure a cam places much faster and if I'm pumped or in a tight spot that's what I'll place. However, everytime I'm in a good stance, a ledge or nohands rest or whatever, with hard climbing ahead, a rockcentric is my first choice if there is a placement for it.
A hex in a horizontal makes such a nice whatever-happens-this-will-stop-me-piece.
I have the BD's Havent placed enough of them to Like or Dislike took a lead fall on a #4 last year, saved my ass! Usually select a cam for ease of placement.
May 12, 2009, 5:39 PM
Post #57 of 73
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Re: [cracklover] Do you have a set of Hex's on your rack?
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I carry a set of hex's, but only to certain areas. Admittedly, I don't climb too much hard trad. I have found that I really like the security of hex's, but they just don't place well in some areas. However, for areas like Seneca, you might be better off with a set of hex's than a set of cam's. In the end I think it's all personal preference.
May 12, 2009, 6:05 PM
Post #60 of 73
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Re: [braaaaaaaadley] Do you have a set of Hex's on your rack?
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However, for areas like Seneca, you might be better off with a set of hex's than a set of cam's.
Yes, for moderate routes at Seneca, I'd rather have hexes than cams. Another alternative is to use neither. Falling on moderate routes at Seneca is a bad idea, even with bomb.com protection.
A hex in a horizontal makes such a nice whatever-happens-this-will-stop-me-piece.
Funny, I tend to evaluate placements based on the quality of the placement, not just the type of piece that's in it.
I don't carry hexes. I haven't carried them in years. I still have the hexes my father used when he was climbing the early 80s. My #9 hexcentric is on permanent loan to my climbing partner, who uses it as a hammer for pounding out especially well set nuts.
For cragging, I simply can't justify the lightness/bail piece argument, since I am just cragging. I can come back and grab something I had to bail from, and I'm not walking so far that the weight is an issue.
The fact that I need a good stance to set a really bomber hex renders them useless to me.
The fact that I need a good stance to set a really bomber hex renders them useless to me.
Now, that is a contradictory statement. They could become a training aid to force you to figure out good stances. After all, there are climbers who's good stance / rest stance is a heinously difficult place for me to hold on. So, using hexes might be a good thing for you.
Funny, I tend to evaluate placements based on the quality of the placement, not just the type of piece that's in it.
Duh! No I wouldn't place a hex in a spot more suited to a nut or a cam. But I regulary run into placements where a hex would make the best pro. Sure a cam would almost always work, and if I'm in a hurry that's what I place. But for each placement I try to use the best piece available to me. Sometimes that is a cam, sometimes a nut and sometimes a hex. Simple.
Now rock is not the same everywhere, and you might not have much use for them. Fine.
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For cragging, I simply can't justify the lightness/bail piece argument, since I am just cragging. I can come back and grab something I had to bail from, and I'm not walking so far that the weight is an issue.
True. When cragging, I generally know what I'll need and try to leave any redundant aluminium on the ground.
I still try to place as much passive pro as I can, simply because I think it is a fun challenge, but that is personal preference.
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The fact that I need a good stance to set a really bomber hex renders them useless to me.
First, I dont need a good stance to set a bomber hex. However when I do have a good stance I have the option to choose the most bomber pro for that placement instead of the most easily placed.
Would I take hexes on a sustained, hard route? No. Are sustained, hard routes all there is to my climbing? No.
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