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colatownkid
Jun 29, 2009, 2:14 AM
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My wife and I will be spending about a week at the Gunks sometime in mid-July. I'm looking for the classics up to 5.10 (my current fairly reliable lead limit on gear). I don't care if it's 5.3 or 5.10--if it's awesome, I want to know. I've heard about "High Exposure" and "Shockley's Ceiling," but I know there's a bunch of good stuff up there. So...what should be on our tick list?
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h-man
Jun 29, 2009, 2:26 AM
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3 Pines, Horseman, Frog's Head, Dennis, Maria, Easy O, CCK. Don't forget to eat at the Mountain Brauhaus.
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bill413
Jun 29, 2009, 2:27 AM
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colatownkid wrote: My wife and I will be spending about a week at the Gunks sometime in mid-July. I'm looking for the classics up to 5.10 (my current fairly reliable lead limit on gear). I don't care if it's 5.3 or 5.10--if it's awesome, I want to know. I've heard about "High Exposure" and "Shockley's Ceiling," but I know there's a bunch of good stuff up there. So...what should be on our tick list?
- Gelsa (5.4, with the wildest 5.3 pitch you will ever do)
- Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK, 5.7)
are ones that immediately jump to mind.
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boymeetsrock
Jun 29, 2009, 4:04 AM
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Madame G's
Ant Line
Bonnie's Roof (direct or regular)
MF
Higher Stannard
Point to a route and go !
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granite_grrl
Jun 29, 2009, 11:45 AM
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Instead of doing High E do Directissma (5.9). Directissma finishes on the High E money pitch (climbing up to the ledge on High E proper is very plain jane). And instead of the High E plain Jane climbing at the start, Directissma has interesting climbing the entire way, with maybe one of the most beautiful 5.6 pitches up the arete to the ledge.
Plus you get get to skip the line ups by going up this way too. 
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clymber
Jun 29, 2009, 12:10 PM
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Disneyland in the Near Trapps 5.6
Wedgetables Sleepy Hollow Trapps 5.10
Welcome to the Gunks Trapps 5'10
Double Craack 5.8
P38 Trapps 5.10
Airy Aria 5.8
10000 Restless Virgins 5.10+
Horsemen 5.5
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hansundfritz
Jun 29, 2009, 1:08 PM
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Here are a few more ideas:
No Picnic (often overlooked -- good intro to Gunks horizontals)
Horseman
Dennis
Belly Roll
Jackie
City Lights
Hawk (still closed b/c of rockfall?)
Frog's Head
Beginner's Delight
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colatownkid
Jun 29, 2009, 1:33 PM
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thanks guys! looks like we've got a nice list going...
also, where can i find the mountain brauhaus?
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debaser655321
Jun 29, 2009, 1:35 PM
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The most exciting 5.4 anywhere is Gelsa, while at the nears, get on Bird land, bird cage, Roseland, if you're feeling strong get on Fat City.
at the trapps there is:
The Dangler (5.10) which is fairly easy for the grade, but definitely wild and a gunks Must Do.
Modern Times is also a wild time (5.8) through great roofs
Nurses Aid is a tough 5.10 but awesome.
Arrow, CCK, Keep Strutting, High E, Directissima, are all under 5.10 and good climbs
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sknowlton
Jun 29, 2009, 1:39 PM
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All good suggestions but you should check on rock fall closures and falcon nesting closures (which may be lifted by the time you go). You can contact the Preserve directly or check their website; or look at Gunks.com for updated info. You can also stop in at Rock and Snow (nice to do anyway) and ask there.
Closures aside: there are many great routes. Have a great trip!
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gblauer
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Jun 29, 2009, 1:39 PM
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Doubleissima 10c?
Grimace Face 9+?
CCK 7+
Inverted Layback 9?
Son of Easy O 8
Double Crack 8
Airy Aria 7+
Ants Line 9
Bonnies Roof (direct or otherwise) 9
Ursula 5 (nice warm up near Bonnies and Ants line)
Bloody Mary (P1, 5.7, P2 5.6 but very exciting)
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Gmburns2000
Jun 29, 2009, 1:55 PM
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Personally, I think Moonlight has a way better money pitch than High E, if you're looking for fun exposure.
Birdland has two very different pitches, each at 5.8.
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lemon_boy
Jun 29, 2009, 2:36 PM
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for well protected 5.10
doubleissima in one long pitch
p-38, good, close approach, get on it early or late.
nosedive, a lot of peoples first gunks 10
simple suff, fun stemming, not a ton of traffic
erect direction, bring prussiks for the second
birdcage, a really nice fun route
matinee, well protected, kind of intimidating but not that hard, stays dry in the rain
coexistence, a good testpiece.
etc
the list of great 10's is a mile long.
the list of great climbs at every grade is pretty much a mile long.
have fun!
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gothcopter
Jun 29, 2009, 2:41 PM
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If you end up doing The Dangler, I recommend you do the first pitch of Something Interesting to get there. It's a great crack climb that heads pretty much straight up there. The second pitch of Something Interesting sucks, so combining those two climbs works out perfectly.
Many of the routes at the Gunks criss-cross each other, so you'll find plenty of opportunities to stitch together the best pitches of different routes. For example, the first pitch of Shockley's Ceiling is pretty lame. So people often do the first pitch of Strictly from Nowhere instead. Someone already mentioned the Directissima/High Exposure thing.
As far as the Mountain Brauhaus goes, you can't miss it!
One last bit of advice: DEET. Black flies suck.
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rgold
Jun 29, 2009, 2:46 PM
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What happens in these recommendation threads is that after a while, practically everything gets recommended. Already there are some routes that I'd consider highly idiosyncratic pitches that you do only you've bagged most of the "real" classics.
I think a better idea is to buy the latest William's guidebooks and do the three-star routes.
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kmc
Jun 29, 2009, 5:14 PM
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Rgold is right. Pick up the Williams guidebook for the Trapps (could pick up the Near Trapps book too, but you will certainly be occupied for a week in the Trapps), and knock out as many three star routes as you can. I would definately recomend the Williams book over the Swain book of lies. The Williams book is much clearer in terms of route descriptions and such. Certainly steer clear of the new guidebook with the bright colored cover. It is really only a select to the Trapps (one of the major crags at the Gunks), and the grades are all over the place.
One person has mentioned Madame G's. I would second that this is a great route, that everyone should climb, but this is within the area of the closure due to nesting and rockfall.
The guidebook will give you a good idea of what climbs you should check out. AFter you tick off a few lines suggested in the book, you will probably be drawn to other climbs by the asthetics alone.
Have fun on your trip.
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qtm
Jun 29, 2009, 7:09 PM
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And since you're there during the week, knock off the uberfall routes, TRable climbs like Ants Line and the Spring, anything under 5.7, during the week since those climbs tend to have a lot of people on them on the weekends.
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h-man
Jun 29, 2009, 11:31 PM
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Mountain Brauhaus is on the corner of 44/55 and 299. You can't miss it on the way in from New Paltz.
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rgold
Jun 30, 2009, 1:17 PM
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Re: Madam G's and surrounding climbs (e.g. Snooky's Return), I think the ban will soon be lifted. The Peregrine chicks have fledged.
I'd also second rejecting The Gunks by Orenczak and Lynn, unless you want an album of great pictures by Denis O'Connor. In addition to poor and idiosyncratic coverage, it is arguably the worst guidebook to ever appear in print.
There is little question that Williams' guidebooks are the best (full disclosure: he's a friend of mine), and at this point are the only up-to-date ones. However, if you don't want to spend the dough, you might consider the postings on Mountain Project. However, since there is no organizing intelligence there, the net effect is a bit like asking for recommendations here or on other sites.
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lemon_boy
Jun 30, 2009, 2:03 PM
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at least with mountainproject you can sort by grade, quality (ie how many stars it gets from people who have done it) and area. this will help you get a good tick list together.
the swain guidebook kind of blows, but it isn't as bad as hack orenzac's pile. i'm not familiar with williams' books, hopefully i will run into some used copies here or there.
if you are only going for a short time, (a week or so), then maybe think about just climbing routes at one area, most likely the trapps. this will help you get familiar really quick, so that if there are people on a route you want to do, you can immediately have a backup plan.
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hansundfritz
Jun 30, 2009, 2:14 PM
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The new Williams guidebook for the Trapps is a sound investment -- even for a week, and especially if you think you'll ever be back. Great for assembling your tick list, finding the base of the first pitch, navigating the route pitch-by-pitch (and variations), etc. The aerial photos are especially useful.
If you want to try a few things in the Near Trapps, you might be able to get by with some interweb print-outs.
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welle
Jun 30, 2009, 2:57 PM
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Aside from useful beta, Dick Williams book is a great read for the history, traditions and etiquette of the Gunks climbing. Reading the intro of the book is a MUST, IMO. Helps you not to look stupid and avoid dirty looks and confrontations - like for example, not setting TRs on 3 star routes on weekends or belay off rappel anchors.
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qtm
Jun 30, 2009, 3:28 PM
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LoL... anything that can be toproped usually has a TR on it. On busy weekends there's a TR on every route in the uberfall. Bonnie's area gets taken over by TR parties who put ropes up on everything. Spring & Winter always have TRs on them.
Yes, if you're not using it, pull the rope. Or let a party climb through. Or let them climb on your ropes. But there's no rule saying you can't set up a TR on a three star route. Just don't hog it all day.
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colatownkid
Jun 30, 2009, 3:46 PM
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welle wrote: Aside from useful beta, Dick Williams book is a great read for the history, traditions and etiquette of the Gunks climbing. Reading the intro of the book is a MUST, IMO. Helps you not to look stupid and avoid dirty looks and confrontations - like for example, not setting TRs on 3 star routes on weekends or belay off rappel anchors.
hopefully we shouldn't really have a problem with this. unless something changes drastically between now and then (which it certainly could), it's just going to be me and my wife, so we probably won't be doing too much top-roping. we should be doing things in the lead and follow style for the most part. regardless, thanks for all the useful info. while i'm at it, we're thinking of camping at the multi-use area. what are the facilities there? i've heard there's no water. are there pit toilets or should i bring a trowel? speaking of water, what's the best place to get some?
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welle
Jun 30, 2009, 3:57 PM
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Yeah, those one pitch climbs in the uberfall are pretty much all TR-d even lower graded ones. But this Sunday I saw a big party set up a TR on the first pitch of Middle Earth - very inconsiderate, methink. Note, I didn't say rules - I said etiquette, just nice things you do for which you get reciprocated with the same courtesy so everyone has a good time.
And Colatownkid, you and your wife will probably be alright midweek anyway, all I wanted to say is that the foreword of the book is a pretty fascinating read especially around the camp. Oh yeah, the book tells you where to camp and where to get water ;)
(This post was edited by welle on Jun 30, 2009, 3:58 PM)
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colatownkid
Jun 30, 2009, 4:01 PM
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welle wrote: Yeah, those one pitch climbs in the uberfall are pretty much all TR-d even lower graded ones. But this Sunday I saw a big party set up a TR on the first pitch of Middle Earth - very inconsiderate, methink. Note, I didn't say rules - I said etiquette, just nice things you do for which you get reciprocated with the same courtesy so everyone has a good time. And Colatownkid, you and your wife will probably be alright midweek anyway, all I wanted to say is that the foreword of the book is a pretty fascinating read especially around the camp. Oh yeah, the book tells you where to camp and where to get water ;)
Buy a Williams guide to the Trapps. Got it. 
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coolcat83
Jun 30, 2009, 4:09 PM
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I was in the Gunks yesterday and talked to a ranger byt the rockfall, he said that the chicks fledged so that's not an issue anymore, and they were trundling some loose stuff and hoping to have the rockfall section open by the evening. Perhaps someone else can confirm that it happened. The routes there however may have changed a lot or not exist from what i've seen...might want to put up a few FA's while you are there
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qtm
Jun 30, 2009, 4:28 PM
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welle wrote: But this Sunday I saw a big party set up a TR on the first pitch of Middle Earth - very inconsiderate, methink.
If the TR group all want to take a turn on the pitch, it's not much different from several groups who want to lead/clean the route. Probably faster. But either way, they're all there before you, so you'd have to wait your turn anyway.
Did you walk up to them and ask if you could lead through? If not, how do you know that they were being inconsiderate?
If we're TRing with a large group, we're more than happy to let a party lead through. Or rap on our ropes. All anyone has to do is ask.
And on many occasions, we've walked up to unused ropes, and asked if we could lead through and were told "yes, sorry, go right ahead" as they moved their ropes to the side or pulled them altogether. Unless you ask, you don't know if they're considerate or not.
That said, yes, I usually just give the big TR parties a pass, there are plenty of other routes to do.
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bill413
Jun 30, 2009, 4:55 PM
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The multiuse area has a port-a-john. No water. During the weekends it's pretty full, but coming in midweek should be fine.
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welle
Jun 30, 2009, 5:43 PM
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there were only two of them, leader just setting the top rope at the top of the P1, when asked if they had more seconds, they said they were going to be there for a while as they had a big party (essentially saying no to lead through). so just two of them reserving the route for the rest of their party not seen anywhere close. Not a big deal, we hopped on something else - just something that I wouldn't do.
Anyway, my point was not to wag my finger and pass judgments, as most especially visiting climbers don't mean ill and do things that raise brows unintentionally. Reading DW guidebook, helps avoiding some faux pas and embarrassments or confrontations, as some regulars could be very vocal and not as mellow as qtm...
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retr2327
Jun 30, 2009, 6:11 PM
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Pretty sure I saw the same party, as we were up there on Sunday afternoon also. They had six or seven people, and only one leader at the grade, so were setting up and using several pitches at once. I don't really have a problem with that; people have to learn somehow, and their leader did a nice job of keeping everyone safe and entertained. And it's not like Middle Earth is that high on the list of "must do" climbs in the Gunks; it's pleasant enough, but no High E.
I wouldn't necessarily take the response "we have a big party" as intended to deny your (unspoken) request to lead through. If there are only two people at the climb (but several more coming soon), they might reasonably have thought you were considering waiting until they were gone, and were just trying to make clear that that wouldn't be happening that soon. If you really want to know if you can lead through, you sometimes might have to ask (you might even have to search out the one leader/knowledgeable person, since the newbies probably wouldn't be in a position to answer).
Live and let live if possible.
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sethg
Jun 30, 2009, 7:40 PM
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I think the most important thing I've learned about the classics at the Gunks is that there are a lot of them, and that you will end up wasting a lot of time waiting if you get too set on doing a particular one on a crowded day. If you walk up to a route and it is occupied, just keep walking! There will be other classics available. And don't be deterred from doing a route because Williams gives it one or two stars instead of three-- a lot of these are classics too!
At the 5.6 grade, for example, two ultraclassics at the Trapps are Shockley's Ceiling and High Exposure. You can wait a long time to get on one of them, and then find out that each one is legendary really for one move. Some people regard the one-star Moonlight to be a superior overall climb. This is just one example, and not meant to denigrate Shockley's or High E (both of which any repeat climber at the Gunks MUST do eventually!). My point is you'll likely have more fun if you just get on something rather than waiting half a day for "the" climb.
(This post was edited by sethg on Jun 30, 2009, 7:42 PM)
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coolcat83
Jun 30, 2009, 7:57 PM
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qtm wrote: coolcat83 wrote: I was in the Gunks yesterday and talked to a ranger byt the rockfall, he said that the chicks fledged so that's not an issue anymore, and they were trundling some loose stuff and hoping to have the rockfall section open by the evening. Perhaps someone else can confirm that it happened. The routes there however may have changed a lot or not exist from what i've seen...might want to put up a few FA's while you are there Just got an email from the GCC: The Mohonk Preserve has announced the end of the Trapps cliff closure The rock fall and nesting peregrine falcon route closure that affected the section of Trapps cliff between, and including the routes Asphodel (5.5) and Bitchy Virgin (5.6) has been lifted. Two young falcons were successfully fledged from the aerie in this area. The compliance of the climbing community was instrumental in this success story. There may still be some loose rock present in this zone, so extra caution should be used when climbing or using the cliff-base climber?s trail in this area. Thank you for your assistance in spreading the word. - The Mohonk Preserve -
Thanks
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robbovius
Jun 30, 2009, 8:24 PM
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Colotownkid, there Are TWO Dick Williams Guidebooks, the Gray is for the Trapps, and the Black (or rather dark maroon, at least mine is) for the Nears and Millbrook. they are being sold thru EMS here in MA. I bought bothn recently, they are definitely worth it.
As fara as restaurants, the mountain brauhaus is nice, and its right on the way to-from New Paltz from the cliffs. in New Paltz, also try Bacchus, and the Gilded Otter.
make sure you stop into Rock and Snow, its a great store, with great people...and a sweet display case full of old timey gear.
I can't really add much to the lists you've already got. maybe, Baby, @ 5.6 has a sweet crack climb for P1.
wear longish pants. there are chiggers at the gunks and you will wind up with bites on your legs if you sit in the grass at the topouts.
have fun!
(This post was edited by robbovius on Jul 1, 2009, 2:45 PM)
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mushroom
Jun 30, 2009, 9:22 PM
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for the weekend days:
http://mcis.western.edu/~jpeterson/me/gunksclassics.html
(uncrowded gunks classics)
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boymeetsrock
Jun 30, 2009, 9:27 PM
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In reply to: Wrist (5.6) This route has a spectacular and somewhat frightening overhang on the second pitch. Start on Arch to get an extra crux.
One of my first leads. What an amazing 2nd pitch. Coming out of the roof corner onto the face was an experience I have not found elsewhere. And little traffic on this one in my experience.
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curt
Jun 30, 2009, 11:25 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: Birdland has two very different pitches, each at 5.8.
Both are excellent, too. I bet I had done the first pitch of that thing 10 times before I bothered to have a look at the second pitch--which is great. I have no idea why I always rapped off after the first pitch before.
Curt
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coolcat83
Jul 1, 2009, 12:04 AM
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robbovius wrote: Coolcat, there Are TWO Dick Williams Guidebooks, the Gray is for the Trapps, and the Black (or rather dark maroon, at least mine is) for the Nears and Millbrook. they are being sold thru EMS here in MA. I bought bothn recently, they are definitely worth it.
uhm, ok, maybe you meant to reply to the OP? The gunks is my primary climbing area and has been for years, I have the books, i didn't mention a book in my post just that the closed areas are open.
(This post was edited by coolcat83 on Jul 1, 2009, 12:04 AM)
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Gmburns2000
Jul 1, 2009, 12:52 AM
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curt wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Birdland has two very different pitches, each at 5.8. Both are excellent, too. I bet I had done the first pitch of that thing 10 times before I bothered to have a look at the second pitch--which is great. I have no idea why I always rapped off after the first pitch before. Curt
I think most people do that. I was lucky enough to have a partner who knew the 2nd pitch was nice.
Gonna go back in a couple of weeks to tackle the 5.9 finish. Can't wait.
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hansundfritz
Jul 1, 2009, 1:37 PM
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Sorry to chime in twice, but I'm not sure anyone mentioned:
CCK 5.7 -- great exposure
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retr2327
Jul 1, 2009, 2:44 PM
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Better yet, do 1st pitch of E.D., then walk over 20 ft. to do CCK Direct.
Don't fall on the direct start off the ledge (a good belay may keep you out of trouble, but don't count on it). Then go straight up to the flake rather than traversing out left and back; then either exit left under the roof (harder, great moves) or take regular exit out right.
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robbovius
Jul 1, 2009, 2:46 PM
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coolcat83 wrote: robbovius wrote: Coolcat, there Are TWO Dick Williams Guidebooks, the Gray is for the Trapps, and the Black (or rather dark maroon, at least mine is) for the Nears and Millbrook. they are being sold thru EMS here in MA. I bought bothn recently, they are definitely worth it. uhm, ok, maybe you meant to reply to the OP? The gunks is my primary climbing area and has been for years, I have the books, i didn't mention a book in my post just that the closed areas are open.
yeah, My B, meant the OP. thanks.
I was there over last weekend, the closed areas still had tapes across all the trails up from the carriage road.
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marc801
Jul 1, 2009, 3:29 PM
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Posts: 2806
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robbovius wrote: Colotownkid, there Are TWO Dick Williams Guidebooks, the Gray is for the Trapps, and the Black (or rather dark maroon, at least mine is) for the Nears and Millbrook.
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