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ravelledfleeces
Jul 1, 2009, 3:03 AM
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I'm a female climber who's just under 5'1" and after 6 months of climbing (3-4 times a week indoors, outdoor bouldering biweekly) I feel I'm plateauing at 5.10 - 5.11 and V3 - V4. Most of the problems I have trouble with are due to reach issues. It seems my wing span or reach is always juust short of getting me to that crux, or my legs never reach that one foot chip that's crucial for making a move.
I've learned how to get over many problems at the 5.10 and under level, but once I get to tougher climbs I get stuck. Even climbers who are 5'2" or 5'3" seem to have a world of advantage over me. I know dyno-ing to some holds might be one solution but it hasn't been a one size fits all solution to a lot of moves that require careful precision and a lot of balance.
My questions: Are there any famous, successful pro female climbers who are my height and I can learn from?
Any of you out there who share the same problem and know how to work around it?
Are there any exercises, books, videos that are good at tackling this problem that I can consult? Has anyone coached a small climber and been able to help them get to 5.12s and above?
Please help!
Thanks!!!
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shockabuku
Jul 1, 2009, 3:15 AM
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ravelledfleeces wrote: I'm a female climber who's just under 5'1" and after 6 months of climbing (3-4 times a week indoors, outdoor bouldering biweekly) I feel I'm plateauing at 5.10 - 5.11 and V3 - V4. Most of the problems I have trouble with are due to reach issues. It seems my wing span or reach is always juust short of getting me to that crux, or my legs never reach that one foot chip that's crucial for making a move. I've learned how to get over many problems at the 5.10 and under level, but once I get to tougher climbs I get stuck. Even climbers who are 5'2" or 5'3" seem to have a world of advantage over me. I know dyno-ing to some holds might be one solution but it hasn't been a one size fits all solution to a lot of moves that require careful precision and a lot of balance. My questions: Are there any famous, successful pro female climbers who are my height and I can learn from? Any of you out there who share the same problem and know how to work around it? Are there any exercises, books, videos that are good at tackling this problem that I can consult? Has anyone coached a small climber and been able to help them get to 5.12s and above? Please help! Thanks!!!
I'm a male climber who's just under 5'10" and after 16 years of climbing I feel I'm plateauing at 5.10 - 5.11 and V3 - V4. Most of the problems I have trouble with are not due to reach issues. My wing span is plus a couple, and my legs usually reach that one foot chip that's crucial for making a move.
I've learned how to get over many problems at the 5.10 and under level, but once I get to tougher climbs I get stuck. Even climbers who are 5'3" (Duncan) or 5'4" (Elly) seem to have a world of advantage over me. I know dyno-ing to some holds might be one solution (that's what Duncan does) but it hasn't been a one size fits all solution to a lot of moves that require careful precision and a lot of balance.
My questions: Are there any famous, successful pro male climbers who are my height and I can learn from?
Any of you out there who share the same problem and know how to work around it?
Are there any exercises, books, videos that are good at tackling this problem that I can consult? Has anyone coached a climber my size and been able to help them get to 5.12s and above?
Please help!
Thanks!!!
No ill will meant, but 6 months at 5.11 is not bad.
Look up Lynn Hill and Robyn Erbesfield.
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asiaclimber
Jul 1, 2009, 3:34 AM
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Katie Brown is pretty freakin short and that girl climbs hard as nails. I have a friend that is like 5'2" that climbs in the 12's but she has been climbing for 2 years. As far as i can say you probably have just hit a plateau in your physical fitness. this happens a lot with people that lift weights as well. My suggestion to you is to change the way you train. Try climbing slab for a while it will improve your foot work and give you a much better head game. Sometimes all it takes is a change of pace. I got stuck in the 10.c-10.d range for like 6 months. All I was doing was sport climbing, then it got cold and I started bouldering for the first time in my life. 4 months latter my first day back on lead I red pointed an 11.c. Hell even taking a break for awhile can work. I was in Kuwait for 5 months(this is the flattest place in the world by the way) didn't train at all and my 3rd weekend back out climbing I on sighted a 25 meter 11.a that was covered in lichen and had 2 different roof pulls. For you as a short person foot work is going to be the most important thing hence my suggestion to climb slabs for a while. This will make you more confident and make you start looking at the rock differently. After climbing slab for awhile you start to see that even though it's not a foot hold your foot will stick to it.
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Alphaboth
Jul 1, 2009, 3:45 AM
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short climbers have an advantage, you are built to climb
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time2clmb
Jul 1, 2009, 3:55 AM
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Well for routes indoors you could be limited in options by that tall mofo that was route setting some of those routes 
For outdoor bouldering I wouldn't worry about it yet. You've only been at it 6 months, you're doing fine. Work on technique and learn from the people you are with. It has nothing to do with reach, there are plenty of short people out there cranking hard.
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WordsVerbatim
Jul 1, 2009, 4:28 AM
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I know exactly how you feel. I'm 5'2 (maybe 5'1", I dunno... :P) and I feel stuck on V2-V3. Of course, now there are new setters so EVERYTHING they set is ridiculously difficult for someone who's short.  I got so tired of hearing, "You might not want to try that one. It's for tall people." Oh. Thanks. Heh.
However, I know a climber who is 5'0" and she can climb V7, so there is hope for us! She's really strong and can push through almost anything it seems. Oh, and you are climbing just fine for someone at 6 months. Don't sweat it! I've been climbing for 9, and I can barely get up a 5.9! (But I also have terrible endurance. Bouldered for 7 of those 9 months... Oops.)
I feel bad enough that I'm stuck on V2 and barely working with V3s. Hah.
(This post was edited by WordsVerbatim on Jul 1, 2009, 3:43 PM)
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bill413
Jul 1, 2009, 12:50 PM
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I was at a comp where there was a problem that everyone agreed was only doable by taller people. At 5'10" the key move was just reachable for me. During the comp a preteen girl, probably 4' something, did the climb. She was at the move for 15 minutes or so, but she solved it. Unfortunately, I didn't see how she did it...but it certainly refuted the "must be tall to do it."
Not everyone can have the skill she demonstrated. Nor can long reachy moves always be made (in some manner) by short people, but they can get up a lot more than they realize. Especially, I think, outside. Although sometimes what is a 5.8 for taller people becomes 5.11 for the shorter ones.
(This post was edited by bill413 on Jul 1, 2009, 12:50 PM)
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clc
Jul 1, 2009, 4:12 PM
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I think most climbers level off at 5.10-11 regardless of their height. Outdoor bouldering will give more reach options.
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jto
Jul 1, 2009, 6:00 PM
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I´m 193 cms and 85 kgs. You small freaks are SO LIGHT!!! There´s your edge so use it 
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marc801
Jul 1, 2009, 6:14 PM
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ravelledfleeces wrote: Are there any famous, successful pro female climbers who are my height and I can learn from?
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heidt410
Jul 1, 2009, 7:16 PM
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I cant stand when people say shit like, "thats more like a 5.6 for you." Me being 6'2'' and all, but does anyone ever give me credit for hauling 195 lbs, no.
I would say being light outweighs the reach factor. Every good climber Ive ever climbed with is usually under 175, some tall, some short. And the longer your limbs, the more force is needed to pull or push your weight around.
Ive seen way more small and light climbers pulling down hard than long big climbers.
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Carnage
Jul 1, 2009, 7:22 PM
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being short just means you have to figure out different beta. Become a pro smear-er for extra footholds
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sidepull
Jul 1, 2009, 7:23 PM
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Some things to consider:
1) everyone reaches plateaus and it is common to blame them on limitations but, to break through, you need to rest a bit and return to the game with a renewed focus on developing your weaknesses. At you level, there is still a lot you can do to develop and refine your movement skills. This has nothing to do with reach.
2) as mentioned, many (if not most) professional female climbers are of similar height.
3) climbing outside generally offers at the very least greater possibilities for your feet and often completely different sequences (read the links below about Alex Puccio's send of Maze of Death or Lisa Rand's thoughts about sequences). The point is, you need to learn how to climb better (eg., re-read point number 1).
Alex Puccio:
http://climbingbum.blogspot.com/...ze-of-death-v12.html
Lisa Rands:
http://www.lisarands.com/press/ri1.asp
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lwilson
Jul 1, 2009, 7:34 PM
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I used to have the same problem with feeling stuck at a certain grade, and in my head I chalked it up to my size. And then I would start avoiding things because I figured they were too reachy. I don't know what happened, but one day I decided to not label anything as 'reachy' anymore, stopped making excuses (not saying that's what you are doing) and would try it.
I would watch and climb with those who were my size, and a few things I've learned is that being able to lock-off when it's needed, learning to high step if possible, and moving dynamically when I could, things didn't seem reachy anymore. You aren't going to master all of those in a couple months, they'll take some time, but they'll help. I have found that bouldering and doing core exercises helped a lot. Also, when outside, I find myself using intermediate crimps that most people might otherwise not see or need.
btw, I am 5'2 with a negative 2 ape index.
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younggun
Jul 1, 2009, 7:48 PM
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All of the good female climbers are under 5'3 except for a few. Rands, Puccio etc, they are all short. Alex Johnson and Lizzy Asher are the only 2 really good tall female climbers I can think of. Better core strength and technique will allow you to reach holds you did not think you could. Plus, you have less weight being short than some one taller. Usually, the shorter you are, the less you weigh, and this is way more important than any reach advantage.
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snaps10
Jul 1, 2009, 8:07 PM
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6 months is hardly a plateau. You will start to advance to the next level slower as you get stronger. 5.6-5.11 is going to be much faster than 5.11-5.13.
Don't dyno often, your tendons will hate you for it.
Sometimes what I need is to take some time off. A couple weeks without climbing (or anything for that matter) and often I will come back feeling much stronger and more confident than I did before.
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shoo
Jul 1, 2009, 8:11 PM
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lwilson wrote: I used to have the same problem with feeling stuck at a certain grade, and in my head I chalked it up to my size. And then I would start avoiding things because I figured they were too reachy. I don't know what happened, but one day I decided to not label anything as 'reachy' anymore, stopped making excuses (not saying that's what you are doing) and would try it. I would watch and climb with those who were my size, and a few things I've learned is that being able to lock-off when it's needed, learning to high step if possible, and moving dynamically when I could, things didn't seem reachy anymore. You aren't going to master all of those in a couple months, they'll take some time, but they'll help. I have found that bouldering and doing core exercises helped a lot. Also, when outside, I find myself using intermediate crimps that most people might otherwise not see or need. btw, I am 5'2 with a negative 2 ape index.
Dinosaur arms!
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shimanilami
Jul 1, 2009, 8:14 PM
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You should quit climbing. Take up jockeying instead.
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lwilson
Jul 1, 2009, 8:14 PM
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shoo wrote: lwilson wrote: I used to have the same problem with feeling stuck at a certain grade, and in my head I chalked it up to my size. And then I would start avoiding things because I figured they were too reachy. I don't know what happened, but one day I decided to not label anything as 'reachy' anymore, stopped making excuses (not saying that's what you are doing) and would try it. I would watch and climb with those who were my size, and a few things I've learned is that being able to lock-off when it's needed, learning to high step if possible, and moving dynamically when I could, things didn't seem reachy anymore. You aren't going to master all of those in a couple months, they'll take some time, but they'll help. I have found that bouldering and doing core exercises helped a lot. Also, when outside, I find myself using intermediate crimps that most people might otherwise not see or need. btw, I am 5'2 with a negative 2 ape index. Dinosaur arms!
my hubby calls them t-rex arms to be exact ;)
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mounter
Jul 1, 2009, 8:16 PM
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Shoot "roids" and drink Jamba Juice.
Steroids won't get u any taller, but you'll get stronger and be pissed off as hell
Jamba Juice...I got nothin', I just wanted to say Jamba Juice.
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lena_chita
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Jul 1, 2009, 8:29 PM
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Since you've been only climbing for 6 months, it is likely that learning good climbing technique will help you keep getting better.
There is no special "short person" training or technique that will magicly make you better.
In very general terms, getting that reachy moves requires one (or a combination) of the following:
-dynamic move
-using higher (often not-as-good) feet
-using intermediate ( often not-as-good) handholds
-finding a completely different sequence (instead of doing what the tall person did, with an extra foot or handhold)
Regardless of how well you have mastered all of the above, there will always be climbs that you will find harder-than-the grade-given-in-guidebook, because of your height.
However, the same is likely true for the rest of the climbers, regardless of the height. A guy with big hands is likely to find a small crimpy sequence to be harder-than-the-grade, while you might think it was easier than the grade, or right no target, for example.
So, if your goal is to climb A 5.12a, you will be able to find a 5.12a that fits your climbing style and body type, and you'll climb it.
If your goal is to climb THIS ONE PARTICULAR 5.12a with 6-foot reaches hold-to-hold on otherwise blank wall, then, depending on the specifics, you might find that this particular 5.12a is not doable for you until you are climbing 5.13s...
It's O.K.
Whine judiciously if you have to (I should follow my own advice. I am a big "shorty" whiner -- ask my partners!), keep climbing. You will never grow taller-- but you will eventually get to climb the things that right now feel impossible.
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asiaclimber
Jul 1, 2009, 10:44 PM
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Dinosaur arms!
my hubby calls them t-rex arms to be exact ;)
i say this to my girlfriend all the time, she hates me for it. she has freakishly small hands as well
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Myxomatosis
Jul 1, 2009, 11:37 PM
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I am slightly below average for a male.. so not short but inch shorter than most of my friends, plus my wing span isn't all that.
I found my technique suffered from having to learn how to climb form people who were taller than me. I really had no idea how to climb until I realized that I was shorter and I had to climb short.
I learnt a few key moves that are now my favourites.. some already mentioned above
* High Step.. Gotta learn how to high step so high everybody is like "goddam!!"
* Hand foot match.. not mentioned above but I will hand foot match then drop knee allowing me to reach
* As above, the drop knee... usually an easy move to do but once you are short, you gotta start doing some insane drop knees that nobody else can do. Like above, hand foot match, move opposide foot to foot hold that nobody would consider using and crank that knee down.
I am known to have outstanding technical skills in our gym. I can see the move from the ground exactly how I need to do it... I have to use my beta because I other peoples beta won't work at all.
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granite_grrl
Jul 2, 2009, 12:29 AM
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Usually it's not really a reach problem, but not being able to take full advantage of your full reach. Good lock off and a strong core goes a long way in terms of reach.
But honestly, I think that the OP going about this wrong. You're saying you can't so a move because you're short and don't have enough reach. Very self limiting. You need to start thinking in terms that you can't do the move the way that you're trying it, what do you have to do to make the move possible. We all have our limitations, we all have to learn to adjust to something non-ideal sometime or another.
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k.l.k
Jul 2, 2009, 12:34 AM
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granite_grrl wrote: Usually it's not really a reach problem, but not being able to take full advantage of your full reach. Good lock off and a strong core goes a long way in terms of reach. But honestly, I think that the OP going about this wrong. You're saying you can't so a move because you're short and don't have enough reach. Very self limiting. You need to start thinking in terms that you can't do the move the way that you're trying it, what do you have to do to make the move possible. We all have our limitations, we all have to learn to adjust to something non-ideal sometime or another.
or she's bouldering only in a gym where the course setters design routes with a minimum number of holds spaced for them and their bros.
climbing outside will help, if that's an option.
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