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sungam
Jul 20, 2009, 9:19 PM
Post #101 of 108
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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sittingduck wrote: Would you not prefer a method that worked with all carabiners with no criteria for brand or age? Opening and closing carabiners that is a vital part of the belay should not be encouraged.
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sungam
Jul 20, 2009, 9:28 PM
Post #102 of 108
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100th PT'ing post FTW! NFG! Protekshunz!
Bomber nest of pro...
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ski.ninja
Jul 20, 2009, 9:39 PM
Post #103 of 108
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zchandran wrote: sittingduck wrote: ski.ninja wrote: I'd rather lose my toe in a chainsaw accident then my whole leg, but the point is that I shouldn't have put myself in a situation where that was likely to happen in the first place. This entire scenario smacks of poor planning and lack of foresight. This is a sport route we're talking about, where copious amounts of information through sources such as guidebooks and/or local climbers would be available prior to the climber arriving at the crag. You are correct, let for the sake of the challenge say you dropped your extra draws at the climb? Come on, if you're going to "what if" this to death, at least come up with some more plausible scenarios: While in the midst of implementing your solution, your belayer stroked out and is now lying face down on top of his ATC device. You can't see his hands or the rope going through it. There is tension in the rope but you don't know if it will hold your weight. Also, you're in the middle of grizzly bear country and rain is starting to gently fall. Go.
Hot damn! There's a scenario I can get behind. This is how it would go down. I'd girth hitch the sling to my belay loop, thread on chain with the sling then tie a large knot (overhand/fig8/whatever) then thread the second chain and then clip the sling back to my belay loop. I'd secure the rope so I wouldn't lose it (gear loop, whatever) untie, then tie into both chains using an equalizing figure 8 follow through (see Rock Climbing Anchors by Craig Luebben, p. 224) backed up with a double fishermans, rig a rappel device for the single strand, then disconnect and rap down the rope to my belay buddy. Grizzleys don't eat their food while it's still warm, so I can feel confident that any curious ursine companions would not be very close. Having determined the scene is free of dangers, I would proceed with my ABC assessment of the patient. If it's a stroke, then he can be moved using a fireman's carry as it allows for a clear airway to be maintained/evaluated throughout the evacuation. For defense I would use a large pointed stick. This is assuming a no cell/satphone and a lack of first aid gear.
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sungam
Jul 20, 2009, 9:43 PM
Post #104 of 108
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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zchandran wrote: While in the midst of implementing your solution, your belayer stroked out and is now lying face down on top of his ATC device.
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sittingduck
Jul 20, 2009, 9:51 PM
Post #105 of 108
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Registered: Aug 19, 2003
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sungam wrote: sittingduck wrote: Would you not prefer a method that worked with all carabiners with no criteria for brand or age? Opening and closing carabiners that is a vital part of the belay should not be encouraged. Fine, I'll tie a bight of rope to one of my gear loops instead.
Would it not be better to use your tie in points than your gear loops?
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sungam
Jul 20, 2009, 9:54 PM
Post #106 of 108
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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sittingduck wrote: sungam wrote: sittingduck wrote: Would you not prefer a method that worked with all carabiners with no criteria for brand or age? Opening and closing carabiners that is a vital part of the belay should not be encouraged. Fine, I'll tie a bight of rope to one of my gear loops instead. Would it not be better to use your tie in points than your gear loops?
If I had fucked up the sling, I'd already be airborne.
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sittingduck
Jul 20, 2009, 10:12 PM
Post #107 of 108
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Registered: Aug 19, 2003
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sungam wrote: sittingduck wrote: sungam wrote: sittingduck wrote: Would you not prefer a method that worked with all carabiners with no criteria for brand or age? Opening and closing carabiners that is a vital part of the belay should not be encouraged. Fine, I'll tie a bight of rope to one of my gear loops instead. Would it not be better to use your tie in points than your gear loops? , well, I like to keep things uncluttered at the front, so I can clearly see what I'm doing when I tie in. I'm aware that everyone makes mistakes at some point, and I'm keen on having a good view of what I'm doing as far as tying in is concerned so that if I do fuck up, I can see that I did, and it also makes me less likely to fuck up. If I had fucked up the sling, I'd already be airborne.
One rope, a sling and a carabiner should be possible to manage for most people, even the retards.
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sungam
Jul 20, 2009, 10:34 PM
Post #108 of 108
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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sittingduck wrote: One rope, a sling and a carabiner should be possible to manage for most people, even the retards.
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