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potreroed
Feb 1, 2010, 5:55 PM
Post #26 of 44
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Cat Walk in Oak Creek Canyon, Red Rocks, is mostly 5.6 with one pitch a bit harder. Long approach but getting off the route is easy--after climbing 8 pitches you're back down to the base in 15 minutes.
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mrtristan
Mar 2, 2010, 5:42 PM
Post #27 of 44
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I'd say Prodigal Sun is 5.8. Spaceshot, though, from what I understand, is 5.6. Both of these are in Zion.
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kachoong
Mar 2, 2010, 6:19 PM
Post #28 of 44
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One of the more exposed 5.6 climbs I've done is back in Australia in the Warrumbungles. Conerstone Rib is over 600 feet and ascends a prominent ridge straight up an ancient volcanic plug. I did it during my first year of climbing so it was quite hair-raising at the time.
It follows the prominent ridge, on the right half of the face for about five pitches.
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climbingaz
Mar 2, 2010, 7:34 PM
Post #29 of 44
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Just my opinion, but 99% of the climbs mentioned wouldn't qualify as a "big wall" if you asked me. Are you really looking for a big wall climb or just some long multi-pitch routes?
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shimanilami
Mar 2, 2010, 8:07 PM
Post #30 of 44
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climbingaz wrote: Just my opinion, but 99% of the climbs mentioned wouldn't qualify as a "big wall" if you asked me. Are you really looking for a big wall climb or just some long multi-pitch routes?
I agree. IMO, "Big Wall" means that you're sleeping on the wall, and probably bringing a haul bag.
Considering that all the long 5.6's I know of are low angle ...
Low angle + hauling = I'd rather be beaten over the head with a baseball bat.
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climbingaz
Mar 2, 2010, 8:14 PM
Post #31 of 44
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shimanilami wrote: climbingaz wrote: Just my opinion, but 99% of the climbs mentioned wouldn't qualify as a "big wall" if you asked me. Are you really looking for a big wall climb or just some long multi-pitch routes? I agree. IMO, "Big Wall" means that you're sleeping on the wall, and probably bringing a haul bag. Considering that all the long 5.6's I know of are low angle ... Low angle + hauling = I'd rather be beaten over the head with a baseball bat.
Exactly, and to my knowledge (which is very limited on big walls) the "easiest" routes are going to be at 5.8, 5.9 etc.....SFWC, Prodigal Son, etc.
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aerili
Mar 4, 2010, 1:16 AM
Post #32 of 44
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kachoong, you look like 'Robin Hood-goes-climbing' in that pic.....
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alpine_monk
May 12, 2010, 7:06 AM
Post #34 of 44
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Native Son is like 5.6 A-somthing or other
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alpine_monk
May 12, 2010, 7:09 AM
Post #35 of 44
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""I agree. IMO, "Big Wall" means that you're sleeping on the wall, and probably bringing a haul bag.
"""
so when you dont sleep on the nose it's not a big wall any more????......
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shimanilami
May 12, 2010, 2:21 PM
Post #36 of 44
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alpine_monk wrote: ""I agree. IMO, "Big Wall" means that you're sleeping on the wall, and probably bringing a haul bag. """ so when you dont sleep on the nose it's not a big wall any more????......
Correct. If you complete the route in a day, then for you it is a multipitch climb, not a "big wall".
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skiclimb
May 12, 2010, 6:33 PM
Post #37 of 44
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shimanilami wrote: alpine_monk wrote: ""I agree. IMO, "Big Wall" means that you're sleeping on the wall, and probably bringing a haul bag. """ so when you dont sleep on the nose it's not a big wall any more????...... Correct. If you complete the route in a day, then for you it is a multipitch climb, not a "big wall".
Definitions in climbing have always been a pet peeve of mine.
One of my still favorite climbs is Royal Arches. It's Big and looks like a wall of stone to me.
Is it ZM on El-Cap..nope..
Who freaking cares..
Guy wanted suggestions for some great long 5.6 Walls .. Can't blame him that kind of climbing is a real blast.
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alpine_monk
May 13, 2010, 6:18 PM
Post #38 of 44
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shimanilami wrote: alpine_monk wrote: ""I agree. IMO, "Big Wall" means that you're sleeping on the wall, and probably bringing a haul bag. """ so when you dont sleep on the nose it's not a big wall any more????...... Correct. If you complete the route in a day, then for you it is a multipitch climb, not a "big wall".
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shimanilami
May 13, 2010, 6:35 PM
Post #39 of 44
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Arguing over climbing definitions is asinine, frankly.
But if it puts your mind at ease, I will modify my earlier statement to read, "If I complete a route in a day, then I do not call it a 'big wall'."
Accordingly, I know of no 5.6 "big walls".
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EATBOOERS
Jun 6, 2010, 1:00 AM
Post #40 of 44
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Registered: Jun 6, 2010
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how about the flat irons???? then maybe some routes in eldo.... wind ridge comes to mind, not a big wall by any means, but....if that goes good head to the diamond for stettners ledges....if that goes good continue up the casual route.....if that goes ok u have climbed a big wall!!
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rtwilli4
Jun 9, 2010, 5:18 AM
Post #41 of 44
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I'm pretty sure there is a Grade V, 5.7 in the Dolomites. Probably a lot of long 5.6 there, but they are probably sandbagged and committing.
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subantz
Sep 11, 2010, 3:40 PM
Post #42 of 44
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rtwilli4 wrote: I'm pretty sure there is a Grade V, 5.7 in the Dolomites. Probably a lot of long 5.6 there, but they are probably sandbagged and committing.
Nuttin else like it.
Most are scared and run from the NC.
It keeps the weak out fo sure
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jrathfon
Sep 11, 2010, 6:55 PM
Post #43 of 44
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Registered: Jun 5, 2006
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subantz wrote: rtwilli4 wrote: I'm pretty sure there is a Grade V, 5.7 in the Dolomites. Probably a lot of long 5.6 there, but they are probably sandbagged and committing. Only in NC can you experience NC.... Nuttin else like it. Most are scared and run from the NC. It keeps the weak out fo sure
ehhhh..... the dolomites are in italy, and this thread was from june.
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skullyambro
Sep 25, 2010, 2:53 AM
Post #44 of 44
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Registered: Mar 14, 2008
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The Solar slab Gully/Solar slab is one of my treasured solos. I don't solo free much....I'll WallClimb alone, but freeclimbing is another animal, to me. Sharing is better. That goes for BigWalls, too, MOSTLY, But sometimes I feel a need...."You need to get to the High & Lonely, NOW!" So I comply. I thought the Solar Slab Rocked, in a big Way. Seriously. Way fun. Not too sketch. Be solid, though. Solid is good.
(This post was edited by skullyambro on Sep 25, 2010, 2:54 AM)
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