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Screening test for n00bs - alpine version
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sungam


Aug 19, 2009, 4:50 AM
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Screening test for n00bs - alpine version
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You know the drill.

Risk factor 1: Helmet
Foam only helmet +25 points
Non-climbing helmet +100 points

Risk Factor 2: Footwear
Trendy approach shoes +15 points
Plastics +5 points
Has to remove climbing shoes during route from fit, +25 points
cotton socks +25 points

Risk factor 3: Harness
Less then 4 gear loops +n points, where n= 4-number of loops

Risk factor 4: Belay devices
Any autolocker +25 points

risk factor 5: rack
Uneccasary cams - +10 points for each cam above camalot 3 or below camalot .5, unless specially needed
Hexes, as replacment for 2nd set of cams -25 points, uneeded, +25 points
Nuts -5 points for having WC ultralights in the smaller sizes.
+10 points for each sport draw.
+5points if they double up their double shoulder length slings and put them over their should instead of clipping them to themselves around the shoulder for easy removal.
+50 points for any gear they haven't already used twice (not the exact piece, but that type).

Risk factor 6: uneccasary shit on harness
Nalgene +5
pertex windcheater (a la montane) clipped to the back -5
no "oh shit" beaner +25
chalkbag attached with anything but full-strength cord or bootlace +15
Daisy chains wrapped around +10

Risk factor 7: topo
+10 for full book
+5 for torn out page
-5 for lamented cut out.
-another 5 points if they already read over it several times and barely have to glance at it.

Risk factor 8: clothing
+50 for each piece of cotton clothing (unless it's a T in the backpack for a summit shot)
+15 if they start the approach with all their clothes on.
+10 for anything down filled other then sleepingbag
+5 for cheapo walking poles

risk factor 9: facial hair
full beard to protect them from the elements -15
skinny mustache +5
Kain style mustache -10 (-another 10 if they rock the pipe Kain style, too)
sideburns +5
-5 if it's grey.

Risk factor 10: pack
-25 if it's cold cold world or gilogear
+10 if it has side pockets
+5 for each thing hanging off the side.
+10 if it's not made by a reputable brand
+15 if there's no removable backplate.

>100 = cutz the rope and run
>75 = newb
>50 = sketch
>25 = iffy
>0 sounds good
0 or less - good partner.
<-50 fuck yeah.


jt512


Aug 19, 2009, 4:55 AM
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Do I have to copyright my posts?!

Jay


bennydh


Aug 19, 2009, 5:19 AM
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jt512 wrote:
Do I have to copyright my posts?!

Jay

Section (h) of the "Terms of Service" addresses reproduction and use by RC.noob, but there is a little bit of ambiguity as to whether or not other users can copy or use, user generated content, and whether or not you maintain ownership over the content you post.

::Insert bored smiley here::


skiclimb


Aug 19, 2009, 5:25 AM
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I climb some mountains nude..class 5 even... how many points?

although I'll admit I usually cheat and use worn out walmart cheepo shoes and have clothes stashed in a pack somewhere below.

looking forward to shasta next weekend...cmon decent weather..


(This post was edited by skiclimb on Aug 19, 2009, 5:29 AM)


sungam


Aug 19, 2009, 5:35 AM
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skiclimb wrote:
I climb some mountains nude..class 5 even... how many points?

although I'll admit I usually cheat and use worn out walmart cheepo shoes and have clothes stashed in a pack somewhere below.

looking forward to shasta next weekend...cmon decent weather..
Wait, what?
Which weekend? The one coming or the one after?
Maybe see you there...


Guran


Aug 19, 2009, 9:21 AM
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Yay I can does alpinez!

(0 points, damned down vest cost me. Usually get a beard going for an alpine trip but it's not thick enough to get me anti-noob-points until it's time to head back home.)

Oh btw should it not be -5 points for each gaffa tape repair on the clothes?

No altimeter: +15
Crampons without anti-balling plates: +50
Tech ice tool for a glacier approach: +20 (some bad ass alpinist know how to use them for rescue. +50 if climber does not look bad ass)

On a motorized approach (télèpherique, cog wheel train; whatever)

Stunned by the view: +10
Breaks out camera: +10
Calling out names of summits: +5
Getting them wrong: +20
Desperately getting some sleep: -15


sungam


Aug 19, 2009, 5:23 PM
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Fine additions omfgwtf@ me forgetting to put something in about tools and poons, but "stunned by the view"...
First time to, say, the Bugaboos always stuns. It's just so freaking awesome.


tigerlilly


Aug 19, 2009, 8:18 PM
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sungam wrote:
risk factor 9: facial hair
full beard to protect them from the elements -15
skinny mustache +5
Kain style mustache -10 (-another 10 if they rock the pipe Kain style, too)
sideburns +5
-5 if it's grey.

Um, even for the women?


sungam


Aug 19, 2009, 8:29 PM
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tigerlilly wrote:
sungam wrote:
risk factor 9: facial hair
full beard to protect them from the elements -15
skinny mustache +5
Kain style mustache -10 (-another 10 if they rock the pipe Kain style, too)
sideburns +5
-5 if it's grey.

Um, even for the women?
Yes, even for the women.
In fact, have another -50 just for being a woman with facial hair.
I'm serious, you can have all-50 of them, that is bad ass.


shimanilami


Aug 19, 2009, 8:42 PM
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Trendy approach shoes +15
Green, yellow and red aliens +30
Laminated topos -5

I'm "iffy" by your criteria, so something must be missing. Because without doubt, I should be in the "cut the rope and run" category.

Ahh. That's it. You didn't list "drinks wine coolers after sending: -1,000,000 points" amongst your criteria.


sungam


Aug 19, 2009, 8:45 PM
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French rabbit or gag in a bag?


i_h8_choss


Aug 19, 2009, 8:57 PM
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skiclimb wrote:
I climb some mountains nude..class 5 even... how many points?

although I'll admit I usually cheat and use worn out walmart cheepo shoes and have clothes stashed in a pack somewhere below.

looking forward to shasta next weekend...cmon decent weather..


A late summer scramble up a 14er?......sounds lame, I think I'll stay at home, get drunk, talk sh*t on the web, then do some bouldering.


bobbj22


Aug 19, 2009, 9:04 PM
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In reply to:
skinny mustache +5
Kain style mustache -10 (-another 10 if they rock the pipe Kain style, too)
sideburns +5
-5 if it's grey.

Does this include pubic hair?
There are several possibilities here. To list a few...the hitler stache, the landing strip, all natural, trimmed, shaved, the bonzai tree, the joe dirt, the lightning bolt, fuzzy peaches, and my favorite- the unibrow.

point ratings please?


sungam


Aug 19, 2009, 10:03 PM
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bobbj22 wrote:
In reply to:
skinny mustache +5
Kain style mustache -10 (-another 10 if they rock the pipe Kain style, too)
sideburns +5
-5 if it's grey.

Does this include pubic hair?
There are several possibilities here. To list a few...the hitler stache, the landing strip, all natural, trimmed, shaved, the bonzai tree, the joe dirt, the lightning bolt, fuzzy peaches, and my favorite- the unibrow.

point ratings please?
If I'm seeing a chick's bush layout, then I already know enough about her (as in, I would know stuff about her to go to that point, not "oh I saw her vag she's kewl"), if a guy is flashing me his junk, we have a similar sense of humor so CLIMB ON!


Lazlo


Aug 19, 2009, 10:03 PM
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i_h8_choss wrote:
skiclimb wrote:
I climb some mountains nude..class 5 even... how many points?

although I'll admit I usually cheat and use worn out walmart cheepo shoes and have clothes stashed in a pack somewhere below.

looking forward to shasta next weekend...cmon decent weather..


A late summer scramble up a 14er?......sounds lame, I think I'll stay at home, get drunk, talk sh*t on the web, then do some bouldering.

This late in the season, you climb glaciers...not scree.

Have fun bouldering.


moose_droppings


Aug 19, 2009, 10:20 PM
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A third lung -50


sungam


Aug 19, 2009, 10:28 PM
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moose_droppings wrote:
A third lung -50
3rd lung?


i_h8_choss


Aug 19, 2009, 10:29 PM
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Suncups everywhere, soft slush by 9a.m.? I usually climb on glaciers in May/June. The views still the same though.


moose_droppings


Aug 19, 2009, 10:41 PM
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Gotta wonder with some of those guys.
Wink


sungam


Aug 19, 2009, 10:46 PM
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moose_droppings wrote:
Gotta wonder with some of those guys.
Wink
LaughLaughLaughLaughLaugh
It'z troo. My buddy Rob will crush the approach then, as we get into our one pole bivibags with ramen, he pulls out a massi 4 season tent, a gormet stove, and fresh veggies and meat. How does he carry so much weight (or fit it all in that bag) yet go so fast? Nobody knows, but I've never seen him tired.


ryanb


Aug 19, 2009, 10:59 PM
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Risk factor 1: Helmet
Foam only helmet +25 points
Think we have discussed this before...i'm all about the foam I get 25.

Risk Factor 2: Footwear
Trendy approach shoes +15 points
Has to remove climbing shoes during route from fit, +25 points

I get full score on this...What do I get for scrambling back to the pack barefoot (put the rock shoes on for the scree bits) because I didn't want to carry my fancy approach shoes up a 5.11 and my rock shoes hurt like hell by the end?

40 pts

Risk factor 4: Belay devices
Any autolocker +25

Have wished I had (when my partner starts dogging) but haven't actually taken it on anything truly alpine

risk factor 5: rack
+10 points for each sport draw.

On harder routes I usually carry and use a couple of wire gate sport draws along with a bunch of tripled slings.
20pts

Risk factor 6: uneccasary shit on harness
Nalgene +5

What if the pack is left at the base? Where do you put the water then?
5pts

Daisy chains wrapped around +10
Not sure what this means but i do carry a girth double sling for a tether.

15 pts



Risk factor 7: topo
I've done all of em but tend towards a zerox in a ziplock 0pts

Risk factor 8: clothing
+15 if they start the approach with all their clothes on.
Start of the approach is often the coldest part of the day...I often start bundled and plan on stripping down as soon as I'm warm.
15 pts

risk factor 9: facial hair
full beard to protect them from the elements -15
-15 points

Risk factor 10: pack
+5 for each thing hanging off the side.
Pretty often I'll take a small pack with stuff that will be in use on the climb (rock shoes, harness, helmet, butterfly coiled rope) hanging outside on the approach.
5 pts

Total: 105 pts


sungam


Aug 19, 2009, 11:16 PM
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Seriously, foam only on a long alpine route? What if you get hit by 2 rocks or big chunks of ice?
I've certainly taken a hit hard enough to damage a foam helmet prior to being hit repeatidly by smaller chunks of ice, a foam would have sucked ass then.


ryanb


Aug 19, 2009, 11:26 PM
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I don't climb ice very often (not since i made the switch to foam come to think of it) and tend towards steeper and cleaner rock routes. These also tend to have harder free moves and as such i feel flipping in a fall is a bigger worry then getting hit with anything. This study convinced me foam was the way to go:

http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Feature.aspx?id=1534

I might pick up a foam and hard shell helmet if there is a good one on the market when my bd tracer gets retired but for now it is serving me quite well...its even caught its share of gravel/kitty litter.


sungam


Aug 20, 2009, 12:01 AM
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ryanb wrote:
I don't climb ice very often (not since i made the switch to foam come to think of it) and tend towards steeper and cleaner rock routes. These also tend to have harder free moves and as such i feel flipping in a fall is a bigger worry then getting hit with anything.
Well, that's fair enough then. I guess whenever I think of alpine climbing I also think of ice climbing as part of that.
I guess on stuff like hard routes in the Bugaboos a foam helmet would be best, but when I think of alpine, I always think of Ben Nevis ice rain and Caingorm death blocks.


EvilMonkey


Aug 20, 2009, 1:37 AM
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sungam wrote:
ryanb wrote:
I don't climb ice very often (not since i made the switch to foam come to think of it) and tend towards steeper and cleaner rock routes. These also tend to have harder free moves and as such i feel flipping in a fall is a bigger worry then getting hit with anything.
Well, that's fair enough then. I guess whenever I think of alpine climbing I also think of ice climbing as part of that.
I guess on stuff like hard routes in the Bugaboos a foam helmet would be best, but when I think of alpine, I always think of Ben Nevis ice rain and Caingorm death blocks.
of course, if you do get smoked by a rock/ice or bangy your mellon in a fall, i bet you'd rather have a helmet that doesn't need to be replaced mid-route. +99 for carrying an extra foam helmet on your harness incase the other gets cracked.
-10 if helmet has cool stickers that are all scratched to shit.


sungam


Aug 20, 2009, 1:47 AM
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EvilMonkey wrote:
sungam wrote:
ryanb wrote:
I don't climb ice very often (not since i made the switch to foam come to think of it) and tend towards steeper and cleaner rock routes. These also tend to have harder free moves and as such i feel flipping in a fall is a bigger worry then getting hit with anything.
Well, that's fair enough then. I guess whenever I think of alpine climbing I also think of ice climbing as part of that.
I guess on stuff like hard routes in the Bugaboos a foam helmet would be best, but when I think of alpine, I always think of Ben Nevis ice rain and Caingorm death blocks.
of course, if you do get smoked by a rock/ice or bangy your mellon in a fall, i bet you'd rather have a helmet that doesn't need to be replaced mid-route. +99 for carrying an extra foam helmet on your harness incase the other gets cracked.
-10 if helmet has cool stickers that are all scratched to shit.
I prefer sticker free helmets. If I'm going to have a bunch of stupid advertisement stickers on my helmet, I better be getting fucking paid to.
Anyways, I don't wanna cover up the sexy pink colour:



Guran


Aug 20, 2009, 8:14 AM
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sungam wrote:
Fine additions omfgwtf@ me forgetting to put something in about tools and poons, but "stunned by the view"...
First time to, say, the Bugaboos always stuns. It's just so freaking awesome.

Nuff said.


sungam


Aug 20, 2009, 5:13 PM
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Guran wrote:
sungam wrote:
Fine additions omfgwtf@ me forgetting to put something in about tools and poons, but "stunned by the view"...
First time to, say, the Bugaboos always stuns. It's just so freaking awesome.

Nuff said.
Wait, I'm a n00b because I'm from another continent?


EvilMonkey


Aug 20, 2009, 6:46 PM
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In reply to:
I prefer sticker free helmets. If I'm going to have a bunch of stupid advertisement stickers on my helmet, I better be getting fucking paid to.
Anyways, I don't wanna cover up the sexy pink colour:
you make a good arguement. if my helmet was pink, i wouldn't cover it in stickers either. why waste good stickers on a helmet i'd never wear in public? +10 for spelling color with a "u".


sungam


Aug 20, 2009, 7:06 PM
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EvilMonkey wrote:
In reply to:
I prefer sticker free helmets. If I'm going to have a bunch of stupid advertisement stickers on my helmet, I better be getting fucking paid to.
Anyways, I don't wanna cover up the sexy pink colour:
you make a good arguement. if my helmet was pink, i wouldn't cover it in stickers either. why waste good stickers on a helmet i'd never wear in public? +10 for spelling color with a "u".
Catch up with the rest of the world, nooub!


gmggg


Aug 20, 2009, 7:16 PM
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sungam wrote:
-5 for lamented cut out.

What if you're not sorry that you cut it out?


sungam


Aug 20, 2009, 7:21 PM
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gmggg wrote:
sungam wrote:
-5 for lamented cut out.

What if you're not sorry that you cut it out?
fuckin' spell check -.-


adnix


Aug 21, 2009, 3:04 PM
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sungam wrote:
You know the drill.

Risk Factor 2: Footwear
Trendy approach shoes +15 points

Risk factor 4: Belay devices
Any autolocker +25 points

risk factor 5: rack
+10 points for each cam below camalot .5, unless specially needed

Risk factor 6: uneccasary shit on harness
no "oh shit" beaner +25

Risk factor 7: topo
+10 for full book

Risk factor 8: clothing
+50 for each piece of cotton clothing (unless it's a T in the backpack for a summit shot)

Risk factor 10: pack
+15 if there's no removable backplate.


>100 = cutz the rope and run
>75 = newb
>50 = sketch
>25 = iffy
>0 sounds good
0 or less - good partner.
<-50 fuck yeah.

I failed your n00b test at 160 points.

Approach shoes to save weight (on most routes). Does ATC Guide count for autolocking? Camalots 0.3 and 0.4 are very handy on rock pitches. I used them both on the first pitch of Fitzroy for crack jumaring and they are very light weight. Oh shit biner is extra weight - I can afford to leave my ultra-lights. I always carry a full book in case I get off route. I love my old school army cotton shirt although I know it takes ages to dry. Why would I need a removable backplate?


glahhg


Aug 21, 2009, 5:30 PM
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Okay I'll try this.

sungam wrote:
You know the drill.

Risk factor 1: Helmet
Foam only helmet +25 points
Non-climbing helmet +100 points
I get +25 for a foam helmet. It's light and looks cool, and that's what really matters, right?
In reply to:
Risk Factor 2: Footwear
Trendy approach shoes +15 points
Plastics +5 points
Has to remove climbing shoes during route from fit, +25 points
cotton socks +25 points
That's dumb, what if you want plastics for the route? Anyway I'd usually be +0 here.
In reply to:
Risk factor 3: Harness
Less then 4 gear loops +n points, where n= 4-number of loops
I have 6 gear loops (sewed 2 on). Do I get -2 here?
In reply to:
Risk factor 4: Belay devices
Any autolocker +25 points
This makes sense. +0
In reply to:
risk factor 5: rack
Uneccasary cams - +10 points for each cam above camalot 3 or below camalot .5, unless specially needed
Hexes, as replacment for 2nd set of cams -25 points, uneeded, +25 points
Nuts -5 points for having WC ultralights in the smaller sizes.
+10 points for each sport draw.
+5points if they double up their double shoulder length slings and put them over their should instead of clipping them to themselves around the shoulder for easy removal.
+50 points for any gear they haven't already used twice (not the exact piece, but that type).
I usually take some TCUs, blue and yellow, they are super light. Apparently I get +20 for that.

And fuck hexes. If you're sending hard down in the lowlands without them (and if you're sending hard, you're not using them) then why would take them up to send hard in the alpine? I'll trade some weight for the speed and efficiency of cams. Guess I get +25 for that.

-5 for WC ultralight nuts.

+40
In reply to:
Risk factor 6: uneccasary shit on harness
Nalgene +5
pertex windcheater (a la montane) clipped to the back -5
no "oh shit" beaner +25
chalkbag attached with anything but full-strength cord or bootlace +15
Daisy chains wrapped around +10
Don't have an "oh shit" biner. What are you gonna put on there? Knife and a prussic? I've got those in other places. I'm not giving myself +25 because that's stupid.
In reply to:
Risk factor 7: topo
+10 for full book
+5 for torn out page
-5 for lamented cut out.
-another 5 points if they already read over it several times and barely have to glance at it.
I usually have a piece of paper. I'll give myself +0
In reply to:
Risk factor 8: clothing
+50 for each piece of cotton clothing (unless it's a T in the backpack for a summit shot)
+15 if they start the approach with all their clothes on.
+10 for anything down filled other then sleepingbag
+5 for cheapo walking poles
+0
In reply to:
risk factor 9: facial hair
full beard to protect them from the elements -15
skinny mustache +5
Kain style mustache -10 (-another 10 if they rock the pipe Kain style, too)
sideburns +5
-5 if it's grey.
+0
In reply to:
Risk factor 10: pack
-25 if it's cold cold world or gilogear
+10 if it has side pockets
+5 for each thing hanging off the side.
+10 if it's not made by a reputable brand
+15 if there's no removable backplate.
I have a cilogear, so I guess I get -25, but that is retarded. I don't understand the cilogear circlejerk, it makes me not want to own one.
In reply to:
>100 = cutz the rope and run
>75 = newb
>50 = sketch
>25 = iffy
>0 sounds good
0 or less - good partner.
<-50 fuck yeah.

Looks like I get 38.

I think you need to focus more on stuff like wearing your helmet, boots, and carrying ice axe around town, wearing matching softshells, and spraying a lot.


sungam


Aug 21, 2009, 5:42 PM
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adnix wrote:

I failed your n00b test at 160 points.

Approach shoes to save weight (on most routes). Does ATC Guide count for autolocking? Camalots 0.3 and 0.4 are very handy on rock pitches. I used them both on the first pitch of Fitzroy for crack jumaring and they are very light weight. Oh shit biner is extra weight - I can afford to leave my ultra-lights. I always carry a full book in case I get off route. I love my old school army cotton shirt although I know it takes ages to dry. Why would I need a removable backplate?
Sorry, thanks for correcting me, I didn't mean to write backplate, I meant to write bivi pad - I think people got what I mean, though.
Again, with the approach shoes - if it's rock with an easy approach then those are fine, but if there are glaciers or ice involved, then I don't wanna sit around while you switch to yore approach shoes. and yes (when I'm in good shape) I probably can keep up with you in my boots.

ATC guide is not autolocking, by that I meant grigri or cinch or eddy etc.


sungam


Aug 21, 2009, 5:57 PM
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Another note - I wasn't actually serious when I wrote this I just wanted to write about the facial hair, which I thought was hilarious.


welle


Aug 21, 2009, 6:07 PM
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glahhg wrote:
Okay I'll try this.

sungam wrote:
risk factor 9: facial hair
full beard to protect them from the elements -15
skinny mustache +5
Kain style mustache -10 (-another 10 if they rock the pipe Kain style, too)
sideburns +5
-5 if it's grey.
+0

Kain style skinny mustache with sideburns?


sungam


Aug 21, 2009, 6:10 PM
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welle wrote:
glahhg wrote:
Okay I'll try this.

sungam wrote:
risk factor 9: facial hair
full beard to protect them from the elements -15
skinny mustache +5
Kain style mustache -10 (-another 10 if they rock the pipe Kain style, too)
sideburns +5
-5 if it's grey.
+0

Kain style skinny mustache with sideburns?
Kain


welle


Aug 21, 2009, 6:17 PM
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I know what Kain looks like. I was just having fun with numbers...

skinny mustache +5
Kain style mustache -10
sideburns +5
equals zero :)


sungam


Aug 21, 2009, 6:28 PM
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welle wrote:
I know what Kain looks like. I was just having fun with numbers...

skinny mustache +5
Kain style mustache -10
sideburns +5
equals zero :)
But a Kian 'tash isn't skinny, so it doesn't werke...


nattfodd


Aug 21, 2009, 6:59 PM
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sungam wrote:
+10 for anything down filled other then sleepingbag

Just being curious, why the hate towards down jackets? I tend to get cold easily at altitude, and sure loved having one for walking around camp or even during breaks in the day.


sungam


Aug 21, 2009, 11:10 PM
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nattfodd wrote:
sungam wrote:
+10 for anything down filled other then sleepingbag

Just being curious, why the hate towards down jackets? I tend to get cold easily at altitude, and sure loved having one for walking around camp or even during breaks in the day.
Again, I mostly climb in Haggisland. Dampness is a major issue at almost all times. DAS parka 4 lyfe!!!



dreday3000


Aug 21, 2009, 11:21 PM
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EvilMonkey wrote:
-10 if helmet has cool stickers that are all scratched to shit.
no.


adnix


Aug 22, 2009, 6:07 AM
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sungam wrote:
Again, with the approach shoes - if it's rock with an easy approach then those are fine, but if there are glaciers or ice involved, then I don't wanna sit around while you switch to yore approach shoes.

This summer I also saw a guy glissading 30-40 degree snow couloir wearing Guide Tennies. He definitely was no beginner.


sungam


Aug 22, 2009, 6:21 AM
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adnix wrote:
sungam wrote:
Again, with the approach shoes - if it's rock with an easy approach then those are fine, but if there are glaciers or ice involved, then I don't wanna sit around while you switch to yore approach shoes.

This summer I also saw a guy glissading 30-40 degree snow couloir wearing Guide Tennies. He definitely was no beginner.
He probably wasn't, but like I said before - I was thinking of when you'd need pons and tools. I don't want to sit around at the base of the col while you sort your shit out.
Not even the very best climber with the most experiance can climb steep ice or neve quickly and efficiently in approach shoes.

Now, I should specify - if it's rock only, then I want to see a good pair of approach shoes. no boots please.
Especially if we're sharing a 2nd's pack with all our crap in it. My walshes weigh fuck all and take up no space - I don't wanna have to carry your heavy fucking giant boots around just because you can't walk right.


kheegster


Aug 22, 2009, 10:21 AM
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Number of friends who died climbing: N x -50 pts

No friends died climbing? 100 pts


nattfodd


Aug 22, 2009, 2:48 PM
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kheegster wrote:
Number of friends who died climbing: N x -50 pts

No friends died climbing? 100 pts

Great, at last some easy way to lower my score!


sungam


Aug 24, 2009, 12:19 AM
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kheegster wrote:
Number of friends who died climbing: N x -50 pts

No friends died climbing? 100 pts
Go fuck yourself.


uni_jim


Aug 24, 2009, 1:12 AM
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nattfodd wrote:
kheegster wrote:
Number of friends who died climbing: N x -50 pts

No friends died climbing? 100 pts

Great, at last some easy way to lower my score!

you are both assholes.

edited to include both of you.


(This post was edited by uni_jim on Aug 24, 2009, 1:38 AM)


nattfodd


Aug 24, 2009, 9:29 AM
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You can laugh about anything, but not with everyone. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pierre_Desproges)

Chill. It's of bad taste, sure, but it's also just a joke.


sungam


Aug 24, 2009, 4:23 PM
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Dude, if I'm not laughing it's more then "bad taste" - I mean, I laugh at some pretty fucked up stuff, but there's no joke in your guys posts, unless unijim had thrown something extra in like "haha! time to kutz da rowp!" in an attempt to lighten the mood.


fresh


Aug 24, 2009, 7:56 PM
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at the risk of being controversial, I didn't take that as a joke. if I was climbing with someone who had a friend who died, I don't think I'd be worried about her making any n00b mistakes. she'd probably understand way better than me that climbing is risky.

that said, if it was a joke... not funny. why? cuz it's really obviously not funny.


suprasoup


Aug 24, 2009, 8:21 PM
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nattfodd wrote:
kheegster wrote:
Number of friends who died climbing: N x -50 pts

No friends died climbing? 100 pts

Great, at last some easy way to lower my score!

That is beyond FUCKED UP!! Not funny on any level...


nattfodd


Aug 24, 2009, 9:45 PM
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That's actually the very bad joke I was trying to make. That you don't laugh just means we have different senses of humor...

That being said, I have no friends who died in the mountains (and would like things to stay that way) and if I offended anyone by my post, which was really not my intention, then I apologize. I simply didn't think people would overreact like that.


sungam


Aug 24, 2009, 10:04 PM
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nattfodd wrote:
I simply didn't think people would overreact like that.
Overreact? I think the word you were looking for is react not overreact. Overreacting is what dramaqueens do in highschool, reacting is what people do when someone makes an out of line comment.


kheegster


Aug 25, 2009, 4:01 AM
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FWIW I was piss drunk when I posted that. Apologies if you got offended.

On the other hand, death IS part and parcel of alpine climbing. Within a year of alpine climbing, thrice I've witnessed choppers doing body recoveries. If you're so sensitive about death, perhaps you should stick to the crags.


skiclimb


Aug 25, 2009, 4:07 AM
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I was looking for torsos and jawbones when you didnt exist yet. Seen a lot of idiots get lucky out there seen a very few impressively safe climbers die from uncotrollable situations.. seen more safe climbers die in car accidents.. dead honest on that..

I'm still here cause the few times i really screwed up didnt kill me or my buddies. And I havn't been exceptionally unlucky. Plus I'm a scardy cat

yeah i got the joke..definately made worse ones in my time.. but i sure as hell don't defend em..or suggest others overacted to my occasional terrible taste in comments.


(This post was edited by skiclimb on Aug 25, 2009, 4:13 AM)


uni_jim


Aug 25, 2009, 4:32 AM
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I have helped load a friend of mine into a stretcher so a helicopter could fly him off the mountain. I understand the seriousness of accidents in the alpine, and I do not think that it is something to be joked about.

I must not be everyone, because, personally, I was offended by the "joke."


sungam


Aug 25, 2009, 4:39 AM
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kheegster wrote:
FWIW I was piss drunk when I posted that. Apologies if you got offended.

On the other hand, death IS part and parcel of alpine climbing. Within a year of alpine climbing, thrice I've witnessed choppers doing body recoveries. If you're so sensitive about death, perhaps you should stick to the crags.
Apology accepted.
It is, unfortunately, a part of it, in the same way that it's a part of driving - but I wouldn't find jokes about deaths from car crashes funny either. I think what irked me wasn't that there was a joke made about how people can die climbing, but the jerk was, as read, directed at the friends of the reader. Know what I mean?
And having a friend die as a rite of passage is just fucked.


uni_jim


Aug 25, 2009, 4:39 AM
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kheegster wrote:
On the other hand, death IS part and parcel of alpine climbing. Within a year of alpine climbing, thrice I've witnessed choppers doing body recoveries. If you're so sensitive about death, perhaps you should stick to the crags.

REALLY???

It is not the sensitivity about death, but for the wellbeing of friends/family who we care about and love. STFU before you dig too deep a hole for yourself.


Guran


Aug 25, 2009, 8:33 AM
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To be dead serious (no pun intended) for a moment, I do agree that, in the real world, I would trust a partner even more knowing that he or she had first hand knowledge of the reaper at work in the alpine. Really.

Chanses are that climber will be set on not letting it happen to me. Sometimes it is good to have someone else saying "I don't like the look of this. Maybe it is time to back off?"

So yeah, if this was a serious alpine-partner-credibility-test, previous experience of fatal or near-fatal accidents would be a huge score.

In a joke thread, though, it was a bit tasteless.


jaablink


Aug 25, 2009, 1:56 PM
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Not to long ago a friend and I spent 10 days in the High Sierras climbing on the Hulk. The last day we were there, a guided party of 3 had finished their repels and the guide was pulling the rope, when it got stuck behind some large loose blocks about 100’ish off the deck. While the 2 guys that were being guided started to organize the gear. The guide moved left to change the angle and started tugging hard on the stuck line. It did finally come free and so did a head sized block with it, coming within a foot or two of hitting one of the party still wearing his now useless helmet…The guide paid it no mind… I guess “no harm, no foul” …

The guide said he had been climbing and guiding for over 15 years now. That is a lot more experience than me… how many points do you get for killing a member of your party? The only way to be safe up there is to be alert and use good judgment, and there is still no guarantee. As seen in my short years of climbing, sometimes those with experience get sloppy because they become too comfortable in this unpredictable environment. Alpine is no joke…


Guran


Aug 25, 2009, 2:26 PM
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No joke, indeed.

Actually, on a single pitch sport or trad i might choose a partner based on some short screening test (without going into details) but on multipitch or alpine I want a partner I know I can trust. Period.

Technical competence and experience is not all. (Heck, on the big stones I'm most certainly a n00b myself) What is important is that my partner share my view on acceptable risks, is open about his/her abilities and has a cool head in tight spots.

Most of all, shares the idea that a summit is nice, but life is better.


adnix


Aug 25, 2009, 5:27 PM
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kheegster wrote:
On the other hand, death IS part and parcel of alpine climbing. Within a year of alpine climbing, thrice I've witnessed choppers doing body recoveries. If you're so sensitive about death, perhaps you should stick to the crags.

I'll second this opinion. During my five years there has been one death (the anchor "broke"), one fractured skull (she was hit by a rock) and one quite severe frostbite (black toes - no need for amputations, though).


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