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coolcat83
Sep 3, 2009, 2:20 AM
Post #1 of 38
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http://www.climbing.com/...n_the_fisher_towers/
http://www.thebmc.co.uk/News.aspx?id=3278
"A Spanish pair has climbed a new route on the northwest face of the Titan in Utah’s Fisher Towers and proposed the unprecedented grade of A6+ for the crux lead. David Palmada and Esther Ollé climbed Look Out! Danger in 11 pitches, with one pitch given A6+, three A5 pitches, and three A4+ pitches."
Now noone died to get it the A6 rating and what the hell is A6"+" plus what? and are the hook belays really necessary? seems like a stunt especially considering they drilled on some pitches, I wouldn't blame them if they placed a bolt at least for a belay
(This post was edited by coolcat83 on Sep 3, 2009, 2:23 AM)
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rock_fencer
Sep 3, 2009, 2:39 AM
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haha yeah they were discussing this on mountain project too. Pretty crazy ascent. i mean belaying off hooks on mud is up their in the crazy world. Im sure it will get normalized if its worthy of repeats.
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climbingtrash
Sep 3, 2009, 3:14 AM
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coolcat83 wrote: http://www.climbing.com/...n_the_fisher_towers/ http://www.thebmc.co.uk/News.aspx?id=3278 "A Spanish pair has climbed a new route on the northwest face of the Titan in Utah’s Fisher Towers and proposed the unprecedented grade of A6+ for the crux lead. David Palmada and Esther Ollé climbed Look Out! Danger in 11 pitches, with one pitch given A6+, three A5 pitches, and three A4+ pitches." Now noone died to get it the A6 rating and what the hell is A6"+" plus what? and are the hook belays really necessary? seems like a stunt especially considering they drilled on some pitches, I wouldn't blame them if they placed a bolt at least for a belay
A6+ means you fall, you die plus your partner dies too. Pffftt...A6+
*edited for posting like a n00b*
(This post was edited by climbingtrash on Sep 3, 2009, 3:15 AM)
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kobaz
Sep 3, 2009, 3:16 AM
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coolcat83 wrote: and are the hook belays really necessary?
Yeah I don't know. If you're belaying off of hooks in dried mud, you might as well not be belaying. If the leader falls, might as well not kill the belayer too.
For me, I'll stick to Stolen Chimney.
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Highcuu
Sep 3, 2009, 3:51 AM
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I always figured A6 was just a theoretical rating that would only really be refuted by having a party fall without killing both leader and belayer.
A grade of A6+ though.... must mean if you fall, the rock sodomizes you before you fall to your death. 
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coolcat83
Sep 3, 2009, 4:47 AM
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Highcuu wrote: I always figured A6 was just a theoretical rating that would only really be refuted by having a party fall without killing both leader and belayer. A grade of A6+ though.... must mean if you fall, the rock sodomizes you before you fall to your death.
exactly, if A6 is you fall you die, essentially soloing every placement then how could you be more than dead?
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marc801
Sep 3, 2009, 5:21 AM
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It's a bullshit rating, and has been pretty much debunked on Supertopo. A close look at that "hook belay" shows two, fat, shiny bolts in the anchor.
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shimanilami
Sep 3, 2009, 5:23 AM
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It only means that someone besides me has climbed A6+. At least, they think they have.
You have to climb at least A7 to know that you've climbed A6+. So realistically, I'm the only one to have definitely climbed the grade.
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scottydo
Sep 3, 2009, 6:30 AM
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Highcuu wrote: I always figured A6 was just a theoretical rating that would only really be refuted by having a party fall without killing both leader and belayer. A grade of A6+ though.... must mean if you fall, the rock sodomizes you before you fall to your death.
HA! That's hilarious.
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qwert
Sep 3, 2009, 8:03 AM
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marc801 wrote: It's a bullshit rating, and has been pretty much debunked on Supertopo. A close look at that "hook belay" shows two, fat, shiny bolts in the anchor.
You mean there are bolts in the photo on climbing mags site? I think i see what you mean. The two silver things one level under the hooks?
Could be bolts, could be pithons. Way to low resolution to see, but they wouldnt be so stupid to publish a photo that shows they are lying.
apart from that: It might be A6. Why not? They just havent confirmed it by falling and both dying. The only way for this grade to be confirmed or debunked is by a party repeating it and falling on the pitch. If they both die they where right. Its A6. If only the leader dies its A5, and if both survive it was totally gym graded and is just an A4.
But Wtf is the + ? Does this mean that they are absolutely shure that you are not just dying but rather being tortured before?
qwert
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tarsier
Sep 3, 2009, 8:35 AM
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Reminds me of a year or two ago when a couple of people got into the media for having physical proof of a "bigfoot." It's just sensationalist bullshit by people looking for attention. Check out my new 5.22+ X route.
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marc801
Sep 3, 2009, 2:08 PM
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qwert wrote: marc801 wrote: It's a bullshit rating, and has been pretty much debunked on Supertopo. A close look at that "hook belay" shows two, fat, shiny bolts in the anchor. Link to the supertopo thread?
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Carnage
Sep 3, 2009, 2:57 PM
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tarsier wrote: Reminds me of a year or two ago when a couple of people got into the media for having physical proof of a "bigfoot." It's just sensationalist bullshit by people looking for attention. Check out my new 5.22+ X route.
i did the second ascent yesterday (onsight) its no harder than 5.22-
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dynosore
Sep 3, 2009, 3:04 PM
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qwert wrote: marc801 wrote: It's a bullshit rating, and has been pretty much debunked on Supertopo. A close look at that "hook belay" shows two, fat, shiny bolts in the anchor. Link to the supertopo thread? You mean there are bolts in the photo on climbing mags site? I think i see what you mean. The two silver things one level under the hooks? Could be bolts, could be pithons. qwert
Belaying off pithons (pythons?!). That could definitely be A6+, leader dies and the belayer gets constricted and swallowed whole 
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Carnage
Sep 3, 2009, 6:11 PM
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dynosore wrote: qwert wrote: marc801 wrote: It's a bullshit rating, and has been pretty much debunked on Supertopo. A close look at that "hook belay" shows two, fat, shiny bolts in the anchor. Link to the supertopo thread? You mean there are bolts in the photo on climbing mags site? I think i see what you mean. The two silver things one level under the hooks? Could be bolts, could be pithons. qwert Belaying off pithons (pythons?!). That could definitely be A6+, leader dies and the belayer gets constricted and swallowed whole
if a required piece of pro was actually a python i will agree at the rating of A6+
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shoo
Sep 3, 2009, 6:36 PM
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A6+ means that there is a hairy dude named Butch waiting for you at the summit who will kill you if you don't fall.
A7 means he'll take out your belayer too.
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Gmburns2000
Sep 3, 2009, 6:50 PM
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Carnage wrote: tarsier wrote: Reminds me of a year or two ago when a couple of people got into the media for having physical proof of a "bigfoot." It's just sensationalist bullshit by people looking for attention. Check out my new 5.22+ X route. i did the second ascent yesterday (onsight) its no harder than 5.22-
Not X either. A pack of grape Bubblicious held my twenty-footer. My belayor only brought Wrigley, so the third ascent will have to wait.
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majid_sabet
Sep 3, 2009, 8:09 PM
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Dean will come and solo it in no time making those guys like a n00b.
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gmggg
Sep 3, 2009, 8:28 PM
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dynosore wrote: qwert wrote: marc801 wrote: It's a bullshit rating, and has been pretty much debunked on Supertopo. A close look at that "hook belay" shows two, fat, shiny bolts in the anchor. Link to the supertopo thread? You mean there are bolts in the photo on climbing mags site? I think i see what you mean. The two silver things one level under the hooks? Could be bolts, could be pithons. qwert Belaying off pithons (pythons?!). That could definitely be A6+, leader dies and the belayer gets constricted and swallowed whole
I belay off of my python all the time. Just lock off and girth hitch the elbow. No need for redundancy either.
(This post was edited by gmggg on Sep 3, 2009, 8:29 PM)
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donald949
Sep 3, 2009, 9:41 PM
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Carnage wrote: dynosore wrote: qwert wrote: marc801 wrote: It's a bullshit rating, and has been pretty much debunked on Supertopo. A close look at that "hook belay" shows two, fat, shiny bolts in the anchor. Link to the supertopo thread? You mean there are bolts in the photo on climbing mags site? I think i see what you mean. The two silver things one level under the hooks? Could be bolts, could be pithons. qwert Belaying off pithons (pythons?!). That could definitely be A6+, leader dies and the belayer gets constricted and swallowed whole if a required piece of pro was actually a python i will agree at the rating of A6+
So its agreed, anchor built exclusively with live python is A6+.
Someone over on the taco suggested A7 as aid free soling, with hooks and such, but no rope. I would agree with that also. And why not, we already moved from class 6, to A and now C.
Plus B and V for bouldering. And all the Ice and mixed Ice and Rock grades that I can't keep up with.
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sungam
Sep 4, 2009, 12:17 PM
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climbingtrash wrote: coolcat83 wrote: http://www.climbing.com/...n_the_fisher_towers/ http://www.thebmc.co.uk/News.aspx?id=3278 "A Spanish pair has climbed a new route on the northwest face of the Titan in Utah’s Fisher Towers and proposed the unprecedented grade of A6+ for the crux lead. David Palmada and Esther Ollé climbed Look Out! Danger in 11 pitches, with one pitch given A6+, three A5 pitches, and three A4+ pitches." Now noone died to get it the A6 rating and what the hell is A6"+" plus what? and are the hook belays really necessary? seems like a stunt especially considering they drilled on some pitches, I wouldn't blame them if they placed a bolt at least for a belay A6+ means you fall, you die plus your partner dies too. Pffftt...A6+ *edited for posting like a n00b*
*Edited for also posting like a noob*
(This post was edited by sungam on Sep 4, 2009, 2:36 PM)
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bigjonnyc
Sep 4, 2009, 12:35 PM
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donald949 wrote: Carnage wrote: dynosore wrote: qwert wrote: marc801 wrote: It's a bullshit rating, and has been pretty much debunked on Supertopo. A close look at that "hook belay" shows two, fat, shiny bolts in the anchor. Link to the supertopo thread? You mean there are bolts in the photo on climbing mags site? I think i see what you mean. The two silver things one level under the hooks? Could be bolts, could be pithons. qwert Belaying off pithons (pythons?!). That could definitely be A6+, leader dies and the belayer gets constricted and swallowed whole if a required piece of pro was actually a python i will agree at the rating of A6+ So its agreed, anchor built exclusively with live python is A6+. Someone over on the taco suggested A7 as aid free soling, with hooks and such, but no rope. I would agree with that also. And why not, we already moved from class 6, to A and now C. Plus B and V for bouldering. And all the Ice and mixed Ice and Rock grades that I can't keep up with.
Wouldn't aid free soloing only be A5, since a fall will only result in the death of the climber?
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donald949
Sep 4, 2009, 4:55 PM
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sungam wrote: climbingtrash wrote: coolcat83 wrote: http://www.climbing.com/...n_the_fisher_towers/ http://www.thebmc.co.uk/News.aspx?id=3278 "A Spanish pair has climbed a new route on the northwest face of the Titan in Utah’s Fisher Towers and proposed the unprecedented grade of A6+ for the crux lead. David Palmada and Esther Ollé climbed Look Out! Danger in 11 pitches, with one pitch given A6+, three A5 pitches, and three A4+ pitches." Now noone died to get it the A6 rating and what the hell is A6"+" plus what? and are the hook belays really necessary? seems like a stunt especially considering they drilled on some pitches, I wouldn't blame them if they placed a bolt at least for a belay A6+ means you fall, you die plus your partner dies too. Pffftt...A6+ *edited for posting like a n00b* A6+ if the leader falls the belayer dies, and there's a possibility of the belay just ripping so the belayer falls and rips the leader off? *Edited for also posting like a noob*
You got jet lag or something? This is still bad...
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sungam
Sep 4, 2009, 5:21 PM
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donald949 wrote: sungam wrote: climbingtrash wrote: coolcat83 wrote: http://www.climbing.com/...n_the_fisher_towers/ http://www.thebmc.co.uk/News.aspx?id=3278 "A Spanish pair has climbed a new route on the northwest face of the Titan in Utah’s Fisher Towers and proposed the unprecedented grade of A6+ for the crux lead. David Palmada and Esther Ollé climbed Look Out! Danger in 11 pitches, with one pitch given A6+, three A5 pitches, and three A4+ pitches." Now noone died to get it the A6 rating and what the hell is A6"+" plus what? and are the hook belays really necessary? seems like a stunt especially considering they drilled on some pitches, I wouldn't blame them if they placed a bolt at least for a belay A6+ means you fall, you die plus your partner dies too. Pffftt...A6+ *edited for posting like a n00b* A6+ if the leader falls the belayer dies, and there's a possibility of the belay just ripping so the belayer falls and rips the leader off? *Edited for also posting like a noob* You got jet lag or something? This is still bad...
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