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bennydh
Sep 16, 2009, 7:52 PM
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olderic wrote: Stormeh wrote: jt512 wrote: Don't know. I've never had a piece fail free climbing. Jay Not surprising, isn't it rare for shiny new bolts to fail?  More like his pinkpoint draws that are stick clipped 3 bolts ahead of him so he can think he is "leading".  roflcopters
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blueeyedclimber
Sep 16, 2009, 7:58 PM
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jt512 wrote: Don't know. I've never had a piece fail free climbing. Jay
Jay, that wasn't the question. He asked "What are your thoughts during a fall?"
My thoughts are usually "Oh shit!", and then instinct takes over! You don't really have time to think in a fall, only react. That's why it is SO important to make sure you are not setting yourself up for a bad fall (i.e. rope behind your leg, moving above questionable gear when you might fall, etc.)
Josh
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blueeyedclimber
Sep 16, 2009, 8:02 PM
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freedan wrote: Oh shit.... That is about all that went through my mind on a recent 20' on a sand bagged 5.8 after pumping out and failing on a groveling mantel to a sloped ledge. Hanging there I gave thanks to the #2 BD that didn't budge above me and the .75 that did its job off the belay.
Modern Times? 
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climbingaggie03
Sep 16, 2009, 8:32 PM
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I've only taken one fall of more than 3 or 4 feet and it was a thirty footer on the durrance crack pitch of the durrance route at devils tower (someone told me it was 5.6)
I was linking pitches 1 and 2 with a meager rack and I was unexperienced at big crack groveling. I was 15 feet above my last piece, probably the last piece I could get before the anchors, wherever they were, as I contemplated my options, my feet slipped
As I fell through the air, I yelled, "SHIT, SHIT....SHIT, WHOA DUDE THAT WAS A LONG FALL" while I was going....I was thinking, " Did I just feel that cam slide?"
I don't think the cam slid, I think my belayer got pulled, but I definitely felt myself slowdown and then keep falling.
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Upperlimits
Sep 16, 2009, 9:43 PM
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Happens pretty fast. I usually think ... What was that last piece I put in????..... Before I remember I'm caught. Then I'm like ... Oh yeah the .5 C4. Then I think... Man that's a good piece. I should use it more. I've never been caught by a nut. I place a lot of them. It must just be easier climbing when I place nuts. When the climbing gets hard out come the cams. Plug and chug.
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jt512
Sep 16, 2009, 10:27 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: jt512 wrote: Don't know. I've never had a piece fail free climbing. Jay Jay, that wasn't the question.
My point was that it should have been.
Jay
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jt512
Sep 16, 2009, 10:29 PM
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olderic wrote: Stormeh wrote: jt512 wrote: Don't know. I've never had a piece fail free climbing. Jay Not surprising, isn't it rare for shiny new bolts to fail? More like his pinkpoint draws that are stick clipped 3 bolts ahead of him so he can think he is "leading".
More like, I've trad climbed for 20 years, including 10 years before I ever touched a sport climb; but unlike you, I don't feel morally superior about it.
Jay
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Stormeh
Sep 16, 2009, 10:43 PM
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jt512 wrote: More like, I've trad climbed for 20 years, including 10 years before I ever touched a sport climb; but unlike you, I don't feel morally superior about it. Jay
It's ok Jay, not everyone has the stomach to keep trad climbing.
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bennydh
Sep 16, 2009, 10:43 PM
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jt512 wrote: olderic wrote: Stormeh wrote: jt512 wrote: Don't know. I've never had a piece fail free climbing. Jay Not surprising, isn't it rare for shiny new bolts to fail? More like his pinkpoint draws that are stick clipped 3 bolts ahead of him so he can think he is "leading". More like, I've trad climbed for 20 years, including 10 years before I ever touched a sport climb; but unlike you, I don't feel morally superior about it. Jay
Hmm. I didn't expect your response to be so bland. I'm a tad bit disappointed. I'll just have to awe at the good use of the semicolon instead of a more humorous JT512 post.
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el_layclimber
Sep 16, 2009, 10:46 PM
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jt512 wrote: olderic wrote: Stormeh wrote: jt512 wrote: Don't know. I've never had a piece fail free climbing. Jay Not surprising, isn't it rare for shiny new bolts to fail? More like his pinkpoint draws that are stick clipped 3 bolts ahead of him so he can think he is "leading". More like, I've trad climbed for 20 years, including 10 years before I ever touched a sport climb; but unlike you, I don't feel morally superior about it. Jay
Just superior in general I take it, then?
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jt512
Sep 16, 2009, 10:55 PM
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Stormeh wrote: jt512 wrote: More like, I've trad climbed for 20 years, including 10 years before I ever touched a sport climb; but unlike you, I don't feel morally superior about it. Jay It's ok Jay, not everyone has the stomach to keep trad climbing.
And not everyone can pull a hard enough move to find sport climbing interesting.
Jay
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bennydh
Sep 16, 2009, 11:05 PM
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jt512 wrote: Stormeh wrote: jt512 wrote: More like, I've trad climbed for 20 years, including 10 years before I ever touched a sport climb; but unlike you, I don't feel morally superior about it. Jay It's ok Jay, not everyone has the stomach to keep trad climbing. And not everyone can pull a hard enough move to find sport climbing interesting. Jay
Is that why you turned to bolts? I know plenty of guys cranking hard moves above placed gear. You don't need shiny bolts overprotecting everything, just to pull hard.
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suprasoup
Sep 16, 2009, 11:05 PM
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Last pitch of Second Coming on Muralla I'm presented with the usual four options. Which version do I wanna do today? Neither, lets just skip the cracks and climb the vertical face instead. The horizontal cracks dispersed along the length of the face were few and very far between but I knew that they were deep enough for solid tricam placements.
So off I go, chugging along placing equalized tricams in each horizontal I reach. Pretty sweet. I place my last equalized pieces (red and pinkie as usual) in preparation for the 40ish feet that can't be protected. I cruise the section and about 5ish feet from the bolted anchors I look up and a chipmunk plops on my face. Like any right minded idiot I grab it. With both hands. 
So here's the sequence of thoughts:
Seriously? There's a chipmunk on my face. Why does this shit always happen to me. Oh shit, I just grabbed it with both hands. Oh shit, I'm run out like crazy. And the last thought, OHHH SHITTTTTTTTTTTT!!!!!!
Here's a pic of the "horizontals" basically just seams where the grass and pines were growing out of.
How massive that vertical head wall is.
So Alvin the Chipmunk and I go for a "ride" the tricams hold and I'm caught 10ish feet before slamming into the ledge at the start of the pitch but poor Alvin kept going Sorry buddy, I really tried to hang on.
Supra
(This post was edited by suprasoup on Sep 16, 2009, 11:08 PM)
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sungam
Sep 16, 2009, 11:05 PM
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I can tell you what I thought when I thought the rope had broken or something (it was actually just angry dropping me with a grigri) "Fuck! I'm taking the full ride! What's the best landing position? I know! Like a fucking Para! Ankles and knees together. I'm falling really slow, I wonder if that's rope drag or just slomo? Holy shit, this is gunna hurt like a bitch! I wonder how much it will hurt? Hey, the ropes coming tight! Fuck, that hurt.
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jt512
Sep 16, 2009, 11:12 PM
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bennydh wrote: jt512 wrote: Stormeh wrote: jt512 wrote: More like, I've trad climbed for 20 years, including 10 years before I ever touched a sport climb; but unlike you, I don't feel morally superior about it. Jay It's ok Jay, not everyone has the stomach to keep trad climbing. And not everyone can pull a hard enough move to find sport climbing interesting. Jay Is that why you turned to bolts?
I turned to sport climbing because I find it much more challenging than trad climbing.
In reply to: I know plenty of guys cranking hard moves above placed gear.
Are you one of them? If not, speak for yourself.
In reply to: You don't need shiny bolts overprotecting everything, just to pull hard.
This is a conversation I'm willing to have with someone like Angry, who's not just all talk. You, on the other hand, are just talking out of your ass, I suspect. I see no reason to have this conversation with you.
Jay
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sspssp
Sep 16, 2009, 11:13 PM
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My second fall on gear I had just left the big belay ledge and started up a corner and placed a blue alien about 10 feet up. My first thought was, "Sh*t, that was wet". Second was, "I wonder if that alien is going to hold", and third was "even if it does, I wonder if the rope catches before I deck". All the questions got answered yes, but I was fortunate that my belayer was tied in with a lot of slack and ran down the ledge.
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bennydh
Sep 16, 2009, 11:24 PM
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jt512 wrote: bennydh wrote: jt512 wrote: Stormeh wrote: jt512 wrote: More like, I've trad climbed for 20 years, including 10 years before I ever touched a sport climb; but unlike you, I don't feel morally superior about it. Jay It's ok Jay, not everyone has the stomach to keep trad climbing. And not everyone can pull a hard enough move to find sport climbing interesting. Jay Is that why you turned to bolts? I turned to sport climbing because I find it much more challenging than trad climbing. In reply to: I know plenty of guys cranking hard moves above placed gear. Are you one of them? If not, speak for yourself. In reply to: You don't need shiny bolts overprotecting everything, just to pull hard. This is a conversation I'm willing to have with someone like Angry, who's not just all talk. You, on the other hand, are just talking out of your ass, I suspect. I see no reason to have this conversation with you. Jay
Way to not feel superior about climbing at all. I'm not such a shabby climber myself. And for the record, I'm not typically willing to talk about climbing hard with washed up old timers who have turned to clipping bolts. Although, I guess those 3 foot run outs between shiny bolts help ensure that you will enjoy retirement. Maybe when I get old, I'll lose my stomach for more exciting climbing, switch to bolts, and lie to myself and everyone else on the interwebs as to why I switched.
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jt512
Sep 16, 2009, 11:30 PM
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bennydh wrote: Although, I guess those 3 foot run outs between shiny bolts help ensure that you will enjoy retirement.
Thanks for proving once again that if you have to exaggerate to make a point, then you don't actually have one.
Jay
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bennydh
Sep 16, 2009, 11:42 PM
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jt512 wrote: bennydh wrote: Although, I guess those 3 foot run outs between shiny bolts help ensure that you will enjoy retirement. Thanks for proving once again that if you have to exaggerate to make a point, then you don't actually have one. Jay
I thought it would drive the point into your thick skull. I'm sorry you misunderstood.
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Stormeh
Sep 17, 2009, 12:07 AM
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jt512 wrote: And not everyone can pull a hard enough move to find sport climbing interesting. Jay
If pulling the hardest possible move is your primary concern, then why not take up pebble wrestling? Or are your ankles as brittle as your ego?
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jt512
Sep 17, 2009, 12:09 AM
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bennydh wrote: jt512 wrote: bennydh wrote: Although, I guess those 3 foot run outs between shiny bolts help ensure that you will enjoy retirement. Thanks for proving once again that if you have to exaggerate to make a point, then you don't actually have one. Jay I thought it would drive the point into your thick skull. I'm sorry you misunderstood.
I understand perfectly. You cope with the fact you can't climb as hard as you like by denigrating sport climbing—and you actually think that's original.
Jay
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jt512
Sep 17, 2009, 12:18 AM
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Stormeh wrote: jt512 wrote: And not everyone can pull a hard enough move to find sport climbing interesting. Jay If pulling the hardest possible move is your primary concern, then why not take up pebble wrestling?
Why don't you just do the kind of climbing you like, and let me do the kind of climbing I like. I don't put down trad climbing, bouldering, ice climbing, or anything else. I do put down those who vocalize their delusion that their preferred form of climbing is morally superior to others. Of course, it's only trad climbers who do that, for some reason.
Jay
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PatMcGinn
Sep 17, 2009, 12:34 AM
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"Trad" climbers... I tried a "sport" route at whitehorse and the bolts were 15 feet apart... Then again some of the bolts at rumney are 10 so it's really not a big difference.
Personally sport climbing allows you to focus on the movement and enjoy the climbing (not saying trad doesn't) but it allows you to solely concentrate on movement, which is why I enjoy it. I like aspect of control in trad where I am in control of my safety.
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bennydh
Sep 17, 2009, 12:35 AM
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jt512 wrote: bennydh wrote: jt512 wrote: bennydh wrote: Although, I guess those 3 foot run outs between shiny bolts help ensure that you will enjoy retirement. Thanks for proving once again that if you have to exaggerate to make a point, then you don't actually have one. Jay I thought it would drive the point into your thick skull. I'm sorry you misunderstood. I understand perfectly. You cope with the fact you can't climb as hard as you like by denigrating sport climbing—and you actually think that's original. Jay
You are an idiot. Try not to project your insecurities on me. I climb pretty hard, and I keep getting stronger. I'm not denigrating sport climbing as a means to cope for any lack of talent either.
Quit trying to be a mind reader like you quit trad climbing. You obviously have no idea what I think, and your projections aren't reality.
Just because you phrase something with authority, it doesn't mean its true; nor does it mean you understand it at all. You just end up sounding like a jackass.
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