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markc
Sep 21, 2009, 8:59 PM
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Tough call. Hopefully they're gone, and no longer your issue. If I was inclined to climb the route again, I'd most likely clean them and leave them at the first bolt. That may be slightly less unsightly than a whole line if draws. I'd carry out and trash the mank, though.
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caughtinside
Sep 21, 2009, 9:01 PM
Post #102 of 150
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dingus wrote: Good thing you got your nut back bro! I can't believe people just huck off on your gear like that! PEOPLE!!!1111 DMT
Oh you misunderstand. It wasn't my nut, I just watched the whole thing happen.
After the nut guy left I took a dump on the broken dude's face though.
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dingus
Sep 21, 2009, 9:21 PM
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caughtinside wrote: dingus wrote: Good thing you got your nut back bro! I can't believe people just huck off on your gear like that! PEOPLE!!!1111 DMT Oh you misunderstand. It wasn't my nut, I just watched the whole thing happen. After the nut guy left I took a dump on the broken dude's face though.
No I understood OK buddy. You didn't catch my sacrasm though its my fault for refusing to use smiley faces!
Cheers caught
DMT
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granite_grrl
Sep 21, 2009, 9:33 PM
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dingus wrote: Jay we are not our Sister's keeper. We all have to be responsible for ourselves.
To me, that alone is a very good reason to get rid of them.
Boymeetsrock: the only reason I suggested trying to get the draws back to the original owner is because there's far too many times that people will take project draws off a route and claim them as booty. Personally, I don't want to be that person. Trying to get them back to owner voids the possibility of Jay stealing ("bootying") them. It's a fine line, but one that I think is important to make clear.
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dingus
Sep 21, 2009, 9:46 PM
Post #105 of 150
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granite_grrl wrote: dingus wrote: Jay we are not our Sister's keeper. We all have to be responsible for ourselves. Good point Dingus, but this it's not just a safety issue and Jay trying to be his Sister's keeper. He has a selfish reason to remove them as well. He's worried about what gear left up for such an extended period of time might do for access for and area that he climbs at.
I don't think JT gives a rats ass about access issues caused by semi-fixed homo draws at his favorite sport crag.
Not to put words out of his keyboard mind you....
DMT
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jt512
Sep 21, 2009, 9:52 PM
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dingus wrote: granite_grrl wrote: dingus wrote: Jay we are not our Sister's keeper. We all have to be responsible for ourselves. Good point Dingus, but this it's not just a safety issue and Jay trying to be his Sister's keeper. He has a selfish reason to remove them as well. He's worried about what gear left up for such an extended period of time might do for access for and area that he climbs at. I don't think JT gives a rats ass about access issues caused by semi-fixed homo draws at his favorite sport crag.
I care a lot about it. Have you read my explanation of where this crag is?
Jay
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caughtinside
Sep 21, 2009, 9:56 PM
Post #107 of 150
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dingus wrote: caughtinside wrote: dingus wrote: Good thing you got your nut back bro! I can't believe people just huck off on your gear like that! PEOPLE!!!1111 DMT Oh you misunderstand. It wasn't my nut, I just watched the whole thing happen. After the nut guy left I took a dump on the broken dude's face though. No I understood OK buddy. You didn't catch my sacrasm though its my fault for refusing to use smiley faces! Cheers caught DMT
No worries. I actually caught your sarcasm and decided to raise you a sawbuck. I'll take the dump on your face next time.
cheers!
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dingus
Sep 21, 2009, 10:14 PM
Post #108 of 150
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I was wondering how the nut got clipped to his harness and missed the part where you shat his face.
Hard to do with a 2-line post (lose a line) but there you have it.
First it was the cock punching, now the face shitting, next you'll be running for governor!
DMT
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dingus
Sep 21, 2009, 10:16 PM
Post #109 of 150
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jt512 wrote: dingus wrote: granite_grrl wrote: dingus wrote: Jay we are not our Sister's keeper. We all have to be responsible for ourselves. Good point Dingus, but this it's not just a safety issue and Jay trying to be his Sister's keeper. He has a selfish reason to remove them as well. He's worried about what gear left up for such an extended period of time might do for access for and area that he climbs at. I don't think JT gives a rats ass about access issues caused by semi-fixed homo draws at his favorite sport crag. I care a lot about it. Have you read my explanation of where this crag is? Jay
Really? Well then if semi-fixed draws are a threat to access you folks are kinda stupid to leave them there. I never pegged you for stupid so I suspect they are no threat to access hence my contention you don't give a damn.
Maybe I have you all wrong though...
DMT
(This post was edited by dingus on Sep 21, 2009, 10:16 PM)
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suprasoup
Sep 21, 2009, 10:33 PM
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k.l.k wrote: suprasoup wrote: I'm THAT guy: Priest Draw: Carnivore V8. I comfortably boulder V10+. [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/5/139335-work-44770.jpg[/image] You're doing it wrong
ROFL!!!! Because of course there's a "right" way to do it
Supra
PS: if you say the way Sharma and Co. do it on "Rampage" I'm gonna laugh even harder.
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k.l.k
Sep 21, 2009, 10:43 PM
Post #111 of 150
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suprasoup wrote: k.l.k wrote: suprasoup wrote: I'm THAT guy: Priest Draw: Carnivore V8. I comfortably boulder V10+. [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/5/139335-work-44770.jpg[/image] You're doing it wrongROFL!!!! Because of course there's a "right" way to do it Supra PS: if you say the way Sharma and Co. do it on "Rampage" I'm gonna laugh even harder.
There was, actually: The heel hook is ob.
But then it was a lot steeper when I did the FA. Looks like someone has tipped the thing up and made it into a face climb.
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suprasoup
Sep 21, 2009, 11:01 PM
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k.l.k wrote: suprasoup wrote: k.l.k wrote: suprasoup wrote: I'm THAT guy: Priest Draw: Carnivore V8. I comfortably boulder V10+. [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/5/139335-work-44770.jpg[/image] You're doing it wrongROFL!!!! Because of course there's a "right" way to do it Supra PS: if you say the way Sharma and Co. do it on "Rampage" I'm gonna laugh even harder. There was, actually: The heel hook is ob. But then it was a lot steeper when I did the FA. Looks like someone has tipped the thing up and made it into a face climb.
 nice. If it makes you feel any better, I've done it that way too. Bummer. You've invalidated 12 of 100+ times I've done Carnivore. Oh wait! Crap! Does Campusing it not count either?? What about Carnivore Direct??
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k.l.k
Sep 21, 2009, 11:13 PM
Post #113 of 150
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suprasoup wrote: k.l.k wrote: suprasoup wrote: k.l.k wrote: suprasoup wrote: I'm THAT guy: Priest Draw: Carnivore V8. I comfortably boulder V10+.  You're doing it wrongROFL!!!! Because of course there's a "right" way to do it Supra PS: if you say the way Sharma and Co. do it on "Rampage" I'm gonna laugh even harder. There was, actually: The heel hook is ob. But then it was a lot steeper when I did the FA. Looks like someone has tipped the thing up and made it into a face climb. nice. If it makes you feel any better, I've done it that way too. Bummer. You've invalidated 12 of 100+ times I've done Carnivore. Oh wait! Crap! Does Campusing it not count either?? What about Carnivore Direct??
STFU n00b!
And it was always direct. Or almost. The groms started using the anorexic start later.
Kids these days.
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suprasoup
Sep 21, 2009, 11:41 PM
Post #114 of 150
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In a word. Yes. All the reasons you describe having fixed draws is one of convenience and nothing more. I'm well aware of the difficulties of cleaning overhanging routes, even more so roofs. Somehow I've managed after all these years. What's your excuse? Fixed draws that serve a purpose other than one of convenience I'm okay with. (though it still irks me). Mega roofs where if you're
cleaning it on TR you can still deck, etc. No problem with project draws as long as you're there. It's the ones that hang out for days and weeks that get me riled. I've already stated why but I'll say it again. LEAVE NO TRACE. We're not the only ones that use the areas we climb in. Hikers and co. do not find hanging draws aestheticaly appealing. And it only takes so many complaints to close an area. And for what? Because we're too lazy to take down our own draws at the end of the day?
I'm with dingus on this one Jay, if it threatens future access please take them down.
Supra
(This post was edited by suprasoup on Sep 21, 2009, 11:52 PM)
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suprasoup
Sep 21, 2009, 11:47 PM
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Much obliged then for setting me straight. You've single handedly invalidated all those sends. Sigh . Guess I'll have to settle for the 20 odd times I've done it the "right" way.
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kriso9tails
Sep 22, 2009, 12:04 AM
Post #116 of 150
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suprasoup wrote: I've already stated why but I'll say it again. LEAVE NO TRACE. We're not the only ones that use the areas we climb in. Hikers and co. do not find hanging draws aestheticaly appealing.
Leave no trace generally refers to things that will have a negative, environmental impact. Most user groups leave some permanent, visible fixtures to facilitate their use of the area. Hikers really aren't an exception to this.
In reply to: And it only takes so many complaints to close an area. And for what? Because we're too lazy to take down our own draws at the end of the day? I'm with dingus on this one Jay, if it threatens future access please take them down.
It depends on the area and the relationship of climbers with whomever controls access. There are certain areas that I can think of that are highly visible to other users where climber really do need to be sensitive about visual impact, but for the most part, I don't hear about access being threatened by project draws or fixed draws. If you can list me some examples, I'm all ears.
(This post was edited by kriso9tails on Sep 22, 2009, 12:06 AM)
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tripperjm
Sep 22, 2009, 12:14 AM
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jt512 wrote: We're probably going back to this crag this weekend. If those draws are still up, I'm wondering what I should do with them. The crag is in the Sierras, and, after October 14, or sooner, if it snows, will be inaccessible until next summer. The crag is in a wilderness area. I'm leaning toward taking down the draws and bringing them home with me (as opposed to stashing them at the crag). Ideas? Jay
I would change out the ones you don't like and work/ send the route and replace them back, where they were, when you are done. I would not remove them, leave a note or anything else that involved not leaving them as they were. Not many locals up there, that hang out at that crag. All of them are old school and likely think they are just fine. I probibly know most or all of them and none of them are likely to take to kindly to them being "stolen" regardless of your motivation or intentions. Just seems like a can of worms that is not worth opening. It's not that difficult to change them out and replace them when you are done. If you were a local, knew the other locals my advice would be different.
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dingus
Sep 22, 2009, 12:22 AM
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kriso9tails wrote: Leave no trace generally refers to things that will have a negative, environmental impact.
Nope. LNT means leave NO trace. That many talk the talk without walking the walk doesn't change the meaning of the term.
DMT
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tripperjm
Sep 22, 2009, 12:46 AM
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jt512 wrote: hafilax wrote: jt512 wrote: We're probably going back to this crag this weekend. If those draws are still up, I'm wondering what I should do with them. The crag is in the Sierras, and, after October 14, or sooner, if it snows, will be inaccessible until next summer. The crag is in a wilderness area. I'm leaning toward taking down the draws and bringing them home with me (as opposed to stashing them at the crag). Ideas? Jay Personally, I wouldn't go out of I way to deal with this. If I actually wanted to climb a route and would be refitting it with my own gear I would probably be inclined to leave the ones taken down. I might clip them to the first bolt if it wouldn't be a huge inconvenience to other climbers or leave them somewhere where they wouldn't be damaged any more than leaving them on the route. If I did take them home I would probably leave a contact note in zip lock under a rock near the base of the route. In reality I doubt I would take them home. Next week's thread "To the asshole that took down my project draws".  This crag is in the middle of the Ansel Adams Wilderness. Leaving a note at the crag to become litter in Reds Meadow is out of the question. The crag is an anomaly; a rad bolted cliff in the middle of the Sierra wilderness. There have not been any threats to climber access there that I am aware of, but I'm concerned that leaving gear at the crag over the winter could attract unwanted attention from the authorities.
There wiill not be any "unwanted attention from the authorites" over the winter. That place gets dumped on. You would need a snowmobile and then still have to hike thru 10+ feet of snow for quite aways. The crag has been there, sometime with hanging draws, sometimes with fixed lines(for the first few seasons while it was being developed) for likely as long as you have been sport climbing, without any problems.
In reply to: The only reason I hesitate to remove it is the chance that the owner of the gear might show up during the last couple weeks of the season to reclaim it. That's my dilemma. Jay
Or not. Still, I don't see any way, this will turn out well, if the draws are removed. Let the locals deal with it, it's their crag, their draws.
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notapplicable
Sep 22, 2009, 12:53 AM
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Destroy the dangerous ones, leave the rest.
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dingus
Sep 22, 2009, 1:06 AM
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tripperjm wrote: Or not. Still, I don't see any way, this will turn out well, if the draws are removed. Let the locals deal with it, it's their crag, their draws.
Their crag? In the Middle of the Ansel Adams WILDERNESS?
You think it's 'their' crag? These LOCALS. That live in the MIDDLE OF THE ANSEL ADAMS WILDERNESS.
Anywhere near HORSESHIT MEADOW by chance?
DMT
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angry
Sep 22, 2009, 1:19 AM
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suprasoup wrote: angry wrote: Why do you carry an 18" long chalkbag? Training weight
You could stash a fleshlight in that thing.
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hafilax
Sep 22, 2009, 1:20 AM
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angry wrote: suprasoup wrote: angry wrote: Why do you carry an 18" long chalkbag? Training weight You could stash a fleshlight in that thing. 
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suprasoup
Sep 22, 2009, 1:58 AM
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hafilax wrote: angry wrote: suprasoup wrote: angry wrote: Why do you carry an 18" long chalkbag? Training weight You could stash a fleshlight in that thing. The whole thing?
SSSHHHH!!!!. You guys ratted me out!!! Harsh man harsh
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tripperjm
Sep 22, 2009, 2:04 AM
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dingus wrote: tripperjm wrote: Or not. Still, I don't see any way, this will turn out well, if the draws are removed. Let the locals deal with it, it's their crag, their draws. Their crag? In the Middle of the Ansel Adams WILDERNESS? You think it's 'their' crag? These LOCALS. That live in the MIDDLE OF THE ANSEL ADAMS WILDERNESS. Anywhere near HORSESHIT MEADOW by chance? DMT
It's naive to think localism doesn't exist. Given the turbulent history of this crag, I believe the some of the boys in Mammoth consider themselves locals.
Yea, near Horseshit Meadows.
Oh, by the way... something seems to be wrong with your caps lock.
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