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sungam


Sep 30, 2009, 5:08 PM
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Most commonly bitched about things at famous crags/places.
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Squamish - "So it really does rain this much, eh?"

Moab - "Fuck, I thought this was a desert - like, hot and shit? Why does it get so cold at night?" + "What the fuck??? This bolt is an angle!!"

RRG - "WHERE THE FUCK ARE WE? WHERE THE FUCK IS FUNK ROCK CITY?"

NC slab - "Two bolts on the pitch and no pro? That's no SO bad, I guess Unsure" "Dude, those two bolts are the next anchor..."

Phoenix - "It's too hot."

Little Cottonwood Canyon - "That was a 5.6?????"

Oak Creek Overlook - "TAKE!!!!! TAKETAKETAKE!!!! FUCKING TARANTULA ON THE HOLD!!"

Bugaboos - "Huh, it's farther then I thought" + (after returning from the trip "We had to bail halfway up due to weather" "On which route?" "all of them..."

Fishers - "This is rock?"


Gmburns2000


Sep 30, 2009, 5:37 PM
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Re: [sungam] Most commonly bitched about things at famous crags/places. [In reply to]
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Gunks - "wait, what? my warmup has a roof?"

Rumney - "Excusé moi, mais avez vous un cigarette? Merci. Maintenant, quel est la difficulté pour ce route? Je'n ai pas un livre."

Cannon - "fuck. Gmburns is here today. Might as well get the coffin ready."


bill413


Sep 30, 2009, 5:38 PM
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Gunks - Why are all those other people clogging up the climbs?


shoo


Sep 30, 2009, 6:00 PM
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Re: [sungam] Most commonly bitched about things at famous crags/places. [In reply to]
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Gunks: "Day pass?!?! Do I have to take a belay test too?"

Whitehorse: "If I fall here, am I more likely to a) slide, b) tumble, or c) become a delicious topping for tacos?"

Rumney: "You told me that the new guide book was coming out 3 EFFING YEARS AGO."


Partner robdotcalm


Sep 30, 2009, 6:03 PM
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Re: [sungam] Most commonly bitched about things at famous crags/places. [In reply to]
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Lumpy Ridge in Rocky Mt National Park.

All stories begin this way, "It was a warm and sunny day, not a cloud in the sky, hardly a breeze...."

Typical story: Lumpy Ridge sudden storm

Cheers,
Rob.calm

Edited to add reference


(This post was edited by robdotcalm on Oct 1, 2009, 3:21 AM)


the_climber


Sep 30, 2009, 6:13 PM
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Re: [robdotcalm] Most commonly bitched about things at famous crags/places. [In reply to]
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On the same note as rob.calm...

The Canadian Rockies -
In reply to:
One sunny turned light snowy day full-on-white-out-blizarding/raining/sleating/the-rock-you're-on-turns-into-a-vertical-river June day in the Rockies two Chossmasters and an unwitting vacationer were high up on new ground...


(This post was edited by the_climber on Sep 30, 2009, 6:16 PM)


petsfed


Sep 30, 2009, 6:29 PM
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Vedauwoo - "the locals are fuckin' sandbaggers!"

By the way Rob, despite what your book says, Hideaway Chimney is not now, nor has it ever been 5.7. It is easier than Ed's, which is soft for 5.7. So quit putting damn fool ideas in all of those Colorado climbers that if they onsight that, they will cruise Mother #1 or the first pitch of Captain Nemo.

Eldorado Springs Canyon - "so where's all the good rock?" (I seem to recall that it was Ron Kauk who said that)


Partner robdotcalm


Sep 30, 2009, 6:48 PM
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Re: [petsfed] Most commonly bitched about things at famous crags/places. [In reply to]
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petsfed wrote:
Vedauwoo - "the locals are fuckin' sandbaggers!"

By the way Rob, despite what your book says, Hideaway Chimney is not now, nor has it ever been 5.7. It is easier than Ed's, which is soft for 5.7.

What are you talking about? On p. 34 of "Rock Climbing at Vedauwoo, Wyoming" it states:

"Hide-A-Way Chimney 5.5. Looks are deceiving, this classic climb is not 5.10. There are handholds hidden inside."

Petsfed, time for you to get a new set of bifocals.

Cheers,
Rob.calm


rockandlice


Sep 30, 2009, 6:53 PM
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NRG : "How exactly am I supposed to reach that next hold?"

"Rico's Dry"


petsfed


Sep 30, 2009, 6:55 PM
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Re: [robdotcalm] Most commonly bitched about things at famous crags/places. [In reply to]
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robdotcalm wrote:
petsfed wrote:
Vedauwoo - "the locals are fuckin' sandbaggers!"

By the way Rob, despite what your book says, Hideaway Chimney is not now, nor has it ever been 5.7. It is easier than Ed's, which is soft for 5.7.

What are you talking about? On p. 34 of "Rock Climbing at Vedauwoo, Wyoming" it states:

"Hide-A-Way Chimney 5.5. Looks are deceiving, this classic climb is not 5.10. There are handholds hidden inside."

Petsfed, time for you to get a new set of bifocals.

Cheers,
Rob.calm

Weird, the last party I met there asked what I thought the grade was, and I said 5.5. And they replied that your book (not the book by that no-account New Jersey hippie) said otherwise. And I was appalled. That's what I get for believing out-of-towners.Wink


hafilax


Sep 30, 2009, 7:00 PM
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Smith Rock: "I thought you said this bolt ladder would be easy?!"


(This post was edited by hafilax on Sep 30, 2009, 7:19 PM)


LostinMaine


Sep 30, 2009, 7:14 PM
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Acadia - "err... a staple?"

'dacks - "Fukin' Barber sandbagged another 5.9!"


andersjr


Sep 30, 2009, 7:14 PM
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robdotcalm wrote:
petsfed wrote:
Vedauwoo - "the locals are fuckin' sandbaggers!"

By the way Rob, despite what your book says, Hideaway Chimney is not now, nor has it ever been 5.7. It is easier than Ed's, which is soft for 5.7.

What are you talking about? On p. 34 of "Rock Climbing at Vedauwoo, Wyoming" it states:

"Hide-A-Way Chimney 5.5. Looks are deceiving, this classic climb is not 5.10. There are handholds hidden inside."

Petsfed, time for you to get a new set of bifocals.

Cheers,
Rob.calm

oh shit. burrrrrrrnnnnnnnn!!!!!!!!!!!!1!!!!!!!!!


donald949


Sep 30, 2009, 11:06 PM
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JTree - that rock is sharp.

Alabama Hills - rock seams to be a little chossy in sections. As the climber pulls off a serving platter sized flake and lands next to the coiled rope I'm laying out.Shocked

Needles - climbing parties need to be self sufficient.


clausti


Sep 30, 2009, 11:17 PM
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rockandlice wrote:
NRG : .... "Rico's Dry"

bwahahahaha.


kriso9tails


Sep 30, 2009, 11:40 PM
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Gunks: While pointing to a page in the guidebook, "Can you tell me where [insert popular route name] is?"

With a smile, "Sure, it's the line right there, buried under all of those people. Pitch two is nice; it starts right on that ledge where it looks like a Japanese tour bus exploded."

Rumney: Shit, I ran out of draws and I'm only ten feet off the deck.


johnwesely


Oct 1, 2009, 12:11 AM
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Little River Canyon- There are 3 bolts on this 70 foot sport route

Sandrock- Too much trash, too many bubbas

Fosters- Ethnic cleansing is actually 11c
-Ethnic cleansing is actually 12d
-I climb 5.13 because I did one bunker route
-Johnny arms should rebolt this place to make it safe


rockandlice


Oct 1, 2009, 12:41 AM
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kriso9tails wrote:
Rumney: Shit, I ran out of draws and I'm only ten feet off the deck.

hehehe. Laugh


Alpine07


Oct 1, 2009, 1:49 AM
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rockandlice wrote:
kriso9tails wrote:
Rumney: Shit, I ran out of draws and I'm only ten feet off the deck.

hehehe. Laugh

Hahaha, sooo true


jmeizis


Oct 1, 2009, 2:02 AM
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Garden of the Gods: "Don't fall before you clip that first bolt."

"I don't see it (looking less than ten feet above the ground)?"

"Tilt your head up more...little more...tad more...there it is (forty feet off the ground)."

Shelf Road: "Haven't seen those type of hangers before."

Black Canyon: "Fucking gully hell!"

First time at the Tetons: "We have to walk up there...fuck!"

First time in RMNP: "Is it always this windy?"


Partner camhead


Oct 1, 2009, 2:10 AM
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Indian Creek or the Red: "I can't find any stances!"


Alpine07


Oct 1, 2009, 2:12 AM
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Climbing a partly frozen waterfall: "Um yeah, you can come up now... stay super far to the right, the left is running water. Oh yeah, and watch out over that bulge, theres a big hole in the ice. Don't fall after that first screw, cause thats the only one, and you'll have a big fucking pendulum. And ummm... Don't fall eh??


Partner angry


Oct 1, 2009, 2:17 AM
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Bermuda

This rock is choss/slimy/mossy
Is that a jelly fish?1!


Partner rgold


Oct 1, 2009, 2:26 AM
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Gunks: this one is true, from a famous Yosemite climber of the sixties who shall here be nameless:

"Any time I have to grab a horizontal hold, I feel all the strength draining out of my hand!"


cragmasterp


Oct 1, 2009, 2:44 AM
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NRG: "i think I'll use this 10' long stout branch as a spider wand to whack at the arachnids ahead as I ascend this lovely 5.10 corner"

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