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livephreeordie
Oct 5, 2009, 10:15 PM
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Began climbing in Fall 2009, primarily sport climbing @ Rumney (New Hampshire), mostly top roping with more experienced climbers. Looking to climb alot more this fall and once spring comes around. Will be doing sport climbing @ Rumney but would like to start getting some trad experience in on easier routes on Cannon and Cathedral. I currently own shoe and harness. Looking to purchase a rope and gear for both sport and trad climbing. 1st: How do I know what length and diameter rope I should look for? 2nd: How many quickdraws should I invest in initially? What size/length? 3rd: As far as trad gear, I know that it is the most costly/expensive. What are some items I can buy off the bat to begin building a solid beginner rack and go from there. Thanks!
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coastal_climber
Oct 5, 2009, 10:19 PM
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Do a search on the site before you post a question that has been asked already.
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Bazzy_J
Oct 5, 2009, 11:07 PM
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Gear4Rocks has some awesome trad gear on ebay. Check it out.
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blueeyedclimber
Oct 5, 2009, 11:25 PM
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livephreeordie wrote: Began climbing in Fall 2009, primarily sport climbing @ Rumney (New Hampshire), mostly top roping with more experienced climbers. Looking to climb alot more this fall and once spring comes around. Will be doing sport climbing @ Rumney but would like to start getting some trad experience in on easier routes on Cannon and Cathedral. Once you go to Cathedral and Cannon, you may never go back to Rumney.
In reply to: I currently own shoe and harness. You might want to get another shoe
In reply to: 1st: How do I know what length and diameter rope I should look for? 60 meters is standard. For your first rope, I would suggest something in the 10.2-10.5 range. The thicker it is the longer it will last, generally speaking.
In reply to: 2nd: How many quickdraws should I invest in initially? What size/length? 10-12 is a good start and will get you up most routes, but it's nice to have more for longer ones. As for what quickdraws to get, everyone has their opinion, but Petzl spirits are nice. Probably the most important thing to look for is the open and cross-loaded strengths of the biners.
In reply to: 3rd: As far as trad gear, I know that it is the most costly/expensive. What are some items I can buy off the bat to begin building a solid beginner rack and go from there. It's usually best to use someone else's rack and then decide what you like and don't like, but if you just want to go out and buy gear, I would suggest buying a set of nuts and learn how to place them first before buying cams. Josh
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johnwesely
Oct 6, 2009, 12:17 AM
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How about you ask your friends that set up top ropes for you??????
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cilohabmilc
Oct 6, 2009, 1:57 AM
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coastal_climber wrote: Do a search on the site before you post a question that has been asked already. No one's forcing you to read a redundant post (that's what the subject line is for)... and for that matter I'd rather if you wouldn't post. This guy is asking for some advise from climbers who have been around a while. I'm assuming you didn't learn everything you know by yourself. So give him a break and either help a beginner out or keep your posts to yourself. Sorry, i'll get on to a more fun subject. Don't buy from gear4rocks... they haven't proven themselves yet as a reputable manufacturer. yeah, stick with a rope that is at least 10mm. It'll last longer and a few extra pounds will only make you stronger. Don't bust the bank on quickdraws. Any draw from any (reputable) manufacturer will do. Your cheapest option is probably the Omega Pacific Dirtbag draw... Most people hate these because they are bulky and heavier than most others, but i guess you get what you pay for. If you keep your eye out for sales you can get better draws cheaper. I'd recommend at least 10 draws to start with. As for trad. A full set of nuts (up to 1") and then hexes up to fist size are what i'd recommend getting first. This will probably set you back around $200 and will give you enough options to protect most single pitch trad routes. Learning how to place solid passive protection is invaluable before you start plugging cams. You will also need a handful of shoulder length slings and empty biners to match. These will help with rope drag and places where a fall might put sideways or upward pull on your gear. Then, as your budget allows, start picking up cams. Brands are only better or worse based on opinion. Most guide books describe gear based on either Friends or Black Diamond cams... but these are both more expensive than other brands. Make sure you have a good mentor. The internet and books are nothing compared to hands on experience with someone who knows what they're doing. And don't worry about the guys on here that try to make you feel inferior... they represent a small minority of the climbing community. Most of us are more than willing to share our experience because at one time or another we were all beginners.
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jsj7051
Oct 6, 2009, 2:12 AM
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cilohabmilc wrote: coastal_climber wrote: Do a search on the site before you post a question that has been asked already. No one's forcing you to read a redundant post (that's what the subject line is for)... and for that matter I'd rather if you wouldn't post. This guy is asking for some advise from climbers who have been around a while. I'm assuming you didn't learn everything you know by yourself. So give him a break and either help a beginner out or keep your posts to yourself. Sorry, i'll get on to a more fun subject. Don't buy from gear4rocks... they haven't proven themselves yet as a reputable manufacturer. yeah, stick with a rope that is at least 10mm. It'll last longer and a few extra pounds will only make you stronger. Don't bust the bank on quickdraws. Any draw from any (reputable) manufacturer will do. Your cheapest option is probably the Omega Pacific Dirtbag draw... Most people hate these because they are bulky and heavier than most others, but i guess you get what you pay for. If you keep your eye out for sales you can get better draws cheaper. I'd recommend at least 10 draws to start with. As for trad. A full set of nuts (up to 1") and then hexes up to fist size are what i'd recommend getting first. This will probably set you back around $200 and will give you enough options to protect most single pitch trad routes. Learning how to place solid passive protection is invaluable before you start plugging cams. You will also need a handful of shoulder length slings and empty biners to match. These will help with rope drag and places where a fall might put sideways or upward pull on your gear. Then, as your budget allows, start picking up cams. Brands are only better or worse based on opinion. Most guide books describe gear based on either Friends or Black Diamond cams... but these are both more expensive than other brands. Make sure you have a good mentor. The internet and books are nothing compared to hands on experience with someone who knows what they're doing. And don't worry about the guys on here that try to make you feel inferior... they represent a small minority of the climbing community. Most of us are more than willing to share our experience because at one time or another we were all beginners. What he said.
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clc
Oct 6, 2009, 1:06 PM
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read a climbing book, you need to lead more than just the equipment. 10.5mm, 60m, rope-a few draws, set of nuts
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ncrockclimber
Oct 6, 2009, 1:51 PM
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As far as buying trad gear goes, I would wait until you have some trad experience. Follow and clean trad routes, climb with people that have gear and know what they are doing first. From this you will develop gear preferences and then be purchase the gear you really want. When I first started, I ran out and bought some nuts and hexes, and then discovered that I did not use the hexes much at all and preferred a different brand of nuts. Take your time and IMHO you will be happier with your purchases. Climb safe and have fun!
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wjca
Oct 6, 2009, 1:51 PM
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livephreeordie wrote: Began climbing in Fall 2009, primarily sport climbing @ Rumney (New Hampshire), mostly top roping with more experienced climbers. Looking to climb alot more this fall and once spring comes around. Will be doing sport climbing @ Rumney but would like to start getting some trad experience in on easier routes on Cannon and Cathedral. I currently own shoe and harness. Looking to purchase a rope and gear for both sport and trad climbing. 1st: How do I know what length and diameter rope I should look for? 2nd: How many quickdraws should I invest in initially? What size/length? 3rd: As far as trad gear, I know that it is the most costly/expensive. What are some items I can buy off the bat to begin building a solid beginner rack and go from there. Thanks! Forget what everyone else said about what to buy. If you just started climbing in the Fall of 2009, that was only 13 days ago. Buy your other shoe, a chalk ball and chalk bad, a belay device, a big locking biner for the belay device and maybe another smaller locking biner. Don't spend any more money on any other gear until after you've spent the rest of this season and the spring learning how to climb and rappel with your friends. If you haven't died by then, your friends probably know what they're doing. You'll be able to figure out what gear you actually need by using that gear first rather than relying on the interweb for advice. Spend the winter reading books. Freedom of the Hills, anything by John Long. Get a book about climbing knots, borrow some static rope and some 1" webbing from your friends and learn how to tie some knots. Find an indoor gym this winter and get in shape. Eat some ham sammies.
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ncrockclimber
Oct 6, 2009, 1:54 PM
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^^^ I could not agree more with the comments on educating yourself! Although reading is not a substitute for qualified instruction (either formal or through a mentor), it is a great way to improve overall knowledge base and improve your chances of being safe.
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livephreeordie
Oct 6, 2009, 3:38 PM
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sorry, typo was supposed to be Fall 2008. (last September was when I started) haha thanks for the advice so far
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coastal_climber
Oct 6, 2009, 4:04 PM
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cilohabmilc wrote: coastal_climber wrote: Do a search on the site before you post a question that has been asked already. No one's forcing you to read a redundant post (that's what the subject line is for)... and for that matter I'd rather if you wouldn't post. This guy is asking for some advise from climbers who have been around a while. I'm assuming you didn't learn everything you know by yourself. So give him a break and either help a beginner out or keep your posts to yourself. Sorry, i'll get on to a more fun subject. Don't buy from gear4rocks... they haven't proven themselves yet as a reputable manufacturer. yeah, stick with a rope that is at least 10mm. It'll last longer and a few extra pounds will only make you stronger. Don't bust the bank on quickdraws. Any draw from any (reputable) manufacturer will do. Your cheapest option is probably the Omega Pacific Dirtbag draw... Most people hate these because they are bulky and heavier than most others, but i guess you get what you pay for. If you keep your eye out for sales you can get better draws cheaper. I'd recommend at least 10 draws to start with. As for trad. A full set of nuts (up to 1") and then hexes up to fist size are what i'd recommend getting first. This will probably set you back around $200 and will give you enough options to protect most single pitch trad routes. Learning how to place solid passive protection is invaluable before you start plugging cams. You will also need a handful of shoulder length slings and empty biners to match. These will help with rope drag and places where a fall might put sideways or upward pull on your gear. Then, as your budget allows, start picking up cams. Brands are only better or worse based on opinion. Most guide books describe gear based on either Friends or Black Diamond cams... but these are both more expensive than other brands. Make sure you have a good mentor. The internet and books are nothing compared to hands on experience with someone who knows what they're doing. And don't worry about the guys on here that try to make you feel inferior... they represent a small minority of the climbing community. Most of us are more than willing to share our experience because at one time or another we were all beginners. I'm guessing you haven't read this: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...orum_view_collapsed;
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LostinMaine
Oct 6, 2009, 4:07 PM
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If you've been climbing for a year, hopefully it has been with more than 1 partner and in more than 1 location (though Rumney is fun). Find some partners, use their gear, decide what you like, then buy it. Buy nice, or buy twice. If you like specific 'biners, get those. Don't buy gear you dislike just because it is cheaper; you'll regret it.
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blueeyedclimber
Oct 6, 2009, 4:27 PM
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LostinMaine wrote: Find some partners, use their gear, decide what you like, then buy it. Buy nice, or buy twice. If you like specific 'biners, get those. Don't buy gear you dislike just because it is cheaper; you'll regret it. This is Korect! Do not skimp on gear. Wait for sales, buy packages, find friends with super sweet pro deals, but don't buy inferior gear. Gear is usually more expensive for a reason...because it is BETTER! Josh
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shoo
Oct 6, 2009, 4:35 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: This is Korect! Do not skimp on gear. Wait for sales, buy packages, find friends with super sweet pro deals, but don't buy inferior gear. Gear is usually more expensive for a reason...because it is BETTER! Josh DO NOT DO THIS. Seriously. Not ok. This is how pro-deals get shut down. I organize pro-deals for my gym, and I can promise you that these accounts will and do shut down when people abuse them. If you want prodeals, get a job with a company that has them. Otherwise, wait for the regular kinds of deals.
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livephreeordie
Oct 6, 2009, 6:41 PM
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i actually currently own a pair of shoes, i've only been borrowing a harness but the friend needs it back soon. should i look for one with the most gear loops on the belt? any specific number (>4)?
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LostinMaine
Oct 6, 2009, 7:13 PM
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livephreeordie wrote: i actually currently own a pair of shoes, i've only been borrowing a harness but the friend needs it back soon. should i look for one with the most gear loops on the belt? any specific number (>4)? For now, get one that is very comfortable and has 4 loops. You can (and will) get another harness later. This is one piece of gear that is tough to get from a friend because it will undoubtedly have some "memory" of it's true owner (kinda like a wand at Hogwart's). Go to a shop with some harnesses, see if they have a bolt to clip into, and hang around for a spell (ha!). Try a bunch and see what you like. A harness that you wear at Rumney will probably be different from a harness you would bring with you to Cannon.
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blueeyedclimber
Oct 6, 2009, 7:19 PM
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shoo wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: This is Korect! Do not skimp on gear. Wait for sales, buy packages, find friends with super sweet pro deals, but don't buy inferior gear. Gear is usually more expensive for a reason...because it is BETTER! Josh DO NOT DO THIS. Seriously. Not ok. This is how pro-deals get shut down. I organize pro-deals for my gym, and I can promise you that these accounts will and do shut down when people abuse them. If you want prodeals, get a job with a company that has them. Otherwise, wait for the regular kinds of deals. Heh heh. That was toungue in cheek, so calm down. Yes, you are right. Do not do this. Sometimes I just don't know which emoticon to use.
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shoo
Oct 6, 2009, 7:24 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: shoo wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: This is Korect! Do not skimp on gear. Wait for sales, buy packages, find friends with super sweet pro deals, but don't buy inferior gear. Gear is usually more expensive for a reason...because it is BETTER! Josh DO NOT DO THIS. Seriously. Not ok. This is how pro-deals get shut down. I organize pro-deals for my gym, and I can promise you that these accounts will and do shut down when people abuse them. If you want prodeals, get a job with a company that has them. Otherwise, wait for the regular kinds of deals. Heh heh. That was toungue in cheek, so calm down. Yes, you are right. Do not do this. Sometimes I just don't know which emoticon to use. <unbunches panties>
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jamincan
Oct 6, 2009, 8:01 PM
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I would personally hold off on buying a full set of gear right off the bat, unless you have a lot of money you wish to get rid of. The most important thing you need right now is someone more experienced than you to climb with - not necessarily just to learn the techniques of proper placements etc, though that's definitely a major benefit, but also just to become more familiar with the gear and discover what you like or need before going out and spending a lot of money on it. Generally your partner is just happy to have someone to go climbing with, and if you want to shoulder some of the cost of the gear, begin by buying a rope so that his or her rope isn't taking all the abuse.
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livephreeordie
Oct 6, 2009, 8:54 PM
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I'm trying to find an experienced climbing partner. There is no shortage of climbers in and around plymouth with rumney right down the street. only issue i've found is most "experienced" climbers aren't chomping at the bit to take me out on a nice day to climb some 5.8 routes while they're used to more difficult ones regularly. myself and 2 other students who are trying to get more experienced just met up, one is a solid climber just looking for more experience. i'm hoping to spend some time at rumney on easier routes to improve technique and gain confidence so that more experienced climbers might be interested in letting me tag along from time to time.
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ken21il
Oct 6, 2009, 9:49 PM
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Bazzy_J wrote: Gear4Rocks has some awesome trad gear on ebay. Check it out. I hope this was meant to be a joke... Plastic Rocks = Dead
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carabiner96
Oct 7, 2009, 12:41 AM
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ken21il wrote: Bazzy_J wrote: Gear4Rocks has some awesome trad gear on ebay. Check it out. I hope this was meant to be a joke... Plastic Rocks = Dead Not really. I think it was in the late 80's early 90's that plastic chocks could be bought stateside and were fully rated and certified (sorry, not a lab geek, they could tell you what). One of my profs brought his well loved set in, lamenting that they didn't stick around because they didn't provide enough psychological support for most climbers...and could turn stuck hard after a whipper on hard rock. He's been around the block a few times as a climber, too....would often get my fix of old school dacks stories from him.
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