|
dr_feelgood
Nov 4, 2013, 9:44 PM
Post #101351 of 105309
(5586 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 26060
|
camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: maybe he meant somebody else. Harpy didn't mean someone else, though.
Persistent butthurtz.
|
|
|
|
|
snoopy138
Nov 5, 2013, 3:33 AM
Post #101352 of 105309
(5566 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28992
|
lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: All this talk about ice climbing is disgusting! Gorgeous weekend here. Thanks to unexpected and magnanimous offer from Heffe I got to climb. And I climbed better than I thought I would, given abysmal performance last weekend, but worse than I wanted to climb. On Saturday I put in 4 goes (well, more like 3.5) on a project that I picked this spring. Rock was perfect, climbing in the sun was a bit too warm, but the sun kept hiding behind the clouds, periodically, so it was perfect climb-in-tank-top-belay-in-down-jacket weather. I don't know if it will go this season, but it will definitely go. I am linking sections together, and doing much better on the cruxes, but I seem to be missing the E part of PE. On Sunday we went to Ed's choice. He sent his first 11c (Banshee), I hung the draws for him after he couldn't get through a tricky section on the first go, so sending it on the third go was really awesome. I didn't think it would go that day, based on his first try. I didn't do nearly as well. It was busy, I couldn't get on the climb I wanted to do. So I hung draws on Galunlati, and hated it. Not the climb-- the draw hanging. The climb is good, but every single draw, even in the easy section was a stupid thing where you have a jug, you have awesome feet... and poop me has to leave the awesome feet and do a pull-up/lock-off to hang the draw, and then relax/fall back down and clip the rope. Same thing as my project on Saturday though.... I did the crux much better than I have ever done it, in fact it might have been the first time ever that I actually did the crux without first pulling up on the draw below it, but then I struggled with stringing together a bunch of not-that-hard moves. I think it is time for the neglected 4x4s. I should have done them by now, but we had a boulder league early at the gym this year, so all the walls were stripped and i was setting instead for 3 weeks. But now the league is done, and There are good problems to put together for a 4x4. Wait, the Red was crowded? Who knew? And what is the megaprodge? None of this obfuscating modesty! And galunlati is one of my glory zends; manderson fell on it while hanging draws and then I got the flash. Not much to report on here. Posting from endless on a beautiful day of 12 aretes, went to a hilarious amateur boxing shindig on Friday, and am stuck in Onehangville with both the megaprodges. I don't know what you mean by the Red being crowded. The other weekend Shaun and I were the only people at Area 6. Didn't see a soul all day. Seems to me that you are just trying to accept your campground shackles by insisting that you don't feel shackled at all, and are free to roam... you just don't want to roam any farther than you do. But if you wanted to go to the Red, you totally could... I didn't feel crowded on Saturday. There were a bunch of people on Stain (teh prodjekt), but it was cycling through really nicely. I never had to sit too long waiting, every time I was done belaying Ed on Tradsucker, and was ready to climb again, it was my turn. I tried it as many times as I wanted (or had ability to try, anyway). Sunday felt crowded at the Solarium, but it was Ed's choice. And he didn't have to wait in line for his route. There weren't that many more people, really, but somehow the guys on Super Best Friends never let me get in, every time I turned around there was a different group on it, and they would be telling me that there were 3 more people. I really should have given Galunlati another go. After all the effort it took to hang the draws, I should have. But I was so disgusted at the end of it, and felt that I had no energy left to try again, because I used it all up in the first go. But really, if I had waited an hour, I would have been good to go again. Nobody wanted to get on it all day. (maybe bacause it had no draws hanging, LOL)
went to red rocks, rolled in late friday night to the site CI and cornelius were sharing with a guy from moab, gaar. did la cierta edad on saturday, thought it was decent if not spectacular. teh 2x agent got the best pitch, the 10a/b crack/stembocks. the 10c pitch was an easy o/w to one 5.10 move pulling out of it to extended 5.7 climbing. we were following killis of mountainproject up the rowt. he talks a lot. rapped as a group of 4 so we didn't have to carry any tag lines, though we figured out you could almost certainly get down with one 70m. also zent grape nuts, a somewhat runout zlab nearby.
went sports climbing sunday. started at wake up wall at the sandstone quarry, zent the Angled Dangler in 2 tries. it's a hard onsight due to the crux being a non-intuitive series of shitty crimps, but pretty easy once you have the sequence down, since the climbing is only hard for about 6 ft. wanted to go to sonic youth wall, but could see we'd be persons 8 and 9, so turned around and drove out of the loop to teh cannibal carg. was also crowded, but was able to hang draws on caustic for teh asiant, she zent that in 2 tries. I made a mess of it while zending, basically failing to use all of the gud right hand holds in the upper sections and crimping/gastoning my way through the crux. fortunately, she was able to get some useful beta from others between attempts 1 and 2.
I got on New Wave Hookers, which was a kickass rowt. It would take some real effort/wiring to actually zend. I could do all of the moves, but was making a shitshow of the bottom traverse, legs dangling every which way.
|
|
|
|
|
granite_grrl
Nov 5, 2013, 12:28 PM
Post #101353 of 105309
(5537 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
|
didn't do much this weekend. slept in both days. Sat around and got fat on Saturday. Went drytooling on Sunday and froze my ass off. I need to do some acclimatization.
I ran pretty fast last night with my running group. I also weighed in at 140.6 lbs this morning (naked, after taking a shit, standard stuff), which is pretty rad.
|
|
|
|
|
lena_chita
Moderator
Nov 5, 2013, 3:30 PM
Post #101354 of 105309
(5522 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
|
snoopy138 wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: All this talk about ice climbing is disgusting! Gorgeous weekend here. Thanks to unexpected and magnanimous offer from Heffe I got to climb. And I climbed better than I thought I would, given abysmal performance last weekend, but worse than I wanted to climb. On Saturday I put in 4 goes (well, more like 3.5) on a project that I picked this spring. Rock was perfect, climbing in the sun was a bit too warm, but the sun kept hiding behind the clouds, periodically, so it was perfect climb-in-tank-top-belay-in-down-jacket weather. I don't know if it will go this season, but it will definitely go. I am linking sections together, and doing much better on the cruxes, but I seem to be missing the E part of PE. On Sunday we went to Ed's choice. He sent his first 11c (Banshee), I hung the draws for him after he couldn't get through a tricky section on the first go, so sending it on the third go was really awesome. I didn't think it would go that day, based on his first try. I didn't do nearly as well. It was busy, I couldn't get on the climb I wanted to do. So I hung draws on Galunlati, and hated it. Not the climb-- the draw hanging. The climb is good, but every single draw, even in the easy section was a stupid thing where you have a jug, you have awesome feet... and poop me has to leave the awesome feet and do a pull-up/lock-off to hang the draw, and then relax/fall back down and clip the rope. Same thing as my project on Saturday though.... I did the crux much better than I have ever done it, in fact it might have been the first time ever that I actually did the crux without first pulling up on the draw below it, but then I struggled with stringing together a bunch of not-that-hard moves. I think it is time for the neglected 4x4s. I should have done them by now, but we had a boulder league early at the gym this year, so all the walls were stripped and i was setting instead for 3 weeks. But now the league is done, and There are good problems to put together for a 4x4. Wait, the Red was crowded? Who knew? And what is the megaprodge? None of this obfuscating modesty! And galunlati is one of my glory zends; manderson fell on it while hanging draws and then I got the flash. Not much to report on here. Posting from endless on a beautiful day of 12 aretes, went to a hilarious amateur boxing shindig on Friday, and am stuck in Onehangville with both the megaprodges. I don't know what you mean by the Red being crowded. The other weekend Shaun and I were the only people at Area 6. Didn't see a soul all day. Seems to me that you are just trying to accept your campground shackles by insisting that you don't feel shackled at all, and are free to roam... you just don't want to roam any farther than you do. But if you wanted to go to the Red, you totally could... I didn't feel crowded on Saturday. There were a bunch of people on Stain (teh prodjekt), but it was cycling through really nicely. I never had to sit too long waiting, every time I was done belaying Ed on Tradsucker, and was ready to climb again, it was my turn. I tried it as many times as I wanted (or had ability to try, anyway). Sunday felt crowded at the Solarium, but it was Ed's choice. And he didn't have to wait in line for his route. There weren't that many more people, really, but somehow the guys on Super Best Friends never let me get in, every time I turned around there was a different group on it, and they would be telling me that there were 3 more people. I really should have given Galunlati another go. After all the effort it took to hang the draws, I should have. But I was so disgusted at the end of it, and felt that I had no energy left to try again, because I used it all up in the first go. But really, if I had waited an hour, I would have been good to go again. Nobody wanted to get on it all day. (maybe bacause it had no draws hanging, LOL) went to red rocks, rolled in late friday night to the site CI and cornelius were sharing with a guy from moab, gaar. did la cierta edad on saturday, thought it was decent if not spectacular. teh 2x agent got the best pitch, the 10a/b crack/stembocks. the 10c pitch was an easy o/w to one 5.10 move pulling out of it to extended 5.7 climbing. we were following killis of mountainproject up the rowt. he talks a lot. rapped as a group of 4 so we didn't have to carry any tag lines, though we figured out you could almost certainly get down with one 70m. also zent grape nuts, a somewhat runout zlab nearby. went sports climbing sunday. started at wake up wall at the sandstone quarry, zent the Angled Dangler in 2 tries. it's a hard onsight due to the crux being a non-intuitive series of shitty crimps, but pretty easy once you have the sequence down, since the climbing is only hard for about 6 ft. wanted to go to sonic youth wall, but could see we'd be persons 8 and 9, so turned around and drove out of the loop to teh cannibal carg. was also crowded, but was able to hang draws on caustic for teh asiant, she zent that in 2 tries. I made a mess of it while zending, basically failing to use all of the gud right hand holds in the upper sections and crimping/gastoning my way through the crux. fortunately, she was able to get some useful beta from others between attempts 1 and 2. I got on New Wave Hookers, which was a kickass rowt. It would take some real effort/wiring to actually zend. I could do all of the moves, but was making a shitshow of the bottom traverse, legs dangling every which way.
Cool I wanted to get on New Wave Hookers when we were at Red Rocks last time (with Heffe, December of 2011), but it wasn't meant to be. We only did a few routes that day, it was cold and Heffe took a fall on Baseboy as his very first route, and didn't feel super-happy.
|
|
|
|
|
lena_chita
Moderator
Nov 5, 2013, 3:40 PM
Post #101355 of 105309
(5516 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
|
Got JT bouldering guidebook in the mail last night and wasted hours looking through it. Holly shit there is a lot of stuff there. I need recommendations!
|
|
|
|
|
snoopy138
Nov 5, 2013, 5:14 PM
Post #101356 of 105309
(5503 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28992
|
lena_chita wrote: snoopy138 wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: All this talk about ice climbing is disgusting! Gorgeous weekend here. Thanks to unexpected and magnanimous offer from Heffe I got to climb. And I climbed better than I thought I would, given abysmal performance last weekend, but worse than I wanted to climb. On Saturday I put in 4 goes (well, more like 3.5) on a project that I picked this spring. Rock was perfect, climbing in the sun was a bit too warm, but the sun kept hiding behind the clouds, periodically, so it was perfect climb-in-tank-top-belay-in-down-jacket weather. I don't know if it will go this season, but it will definitely go. I am linking sections together, and doing much better on the cruxes, but I seem to be missing the E part of PE. On Sunday we went to Ed's choice. He sent his first 11c (Banshee), I hung the draws for him after he couldn't get through a tricky section on the first go, so sending it on the third go was really awesome. I didn't think it would go that day, based on his first try. I didn't do nearly as well. It was busy, I couldn't get on the climb I wanted to do. So I hung draws on Galunlati, and hated it. Not the climb-- the draw hanging. The climb is good, but every single draw, even in the easy section was a stupid thing where you have a jug, you have awesome feet... and poop me has to leave the awesome feet and do a pull-up/lock-off to hang the draw, and then relax/fall back down and clip the rope. Same thing as my project on Saturday though.... I did the crux much better than I have ever done it, in fact it might have been the first time ever that I actually did the crux without first pulling up on the draw below it, but then I struggled with stringing together a bunch of not-that-hard moves. I think it is time for the neglected 4x4s. I should have done them by now, but we had a boulder league early at the gym this year, so all the walls were stripped and i was setting instead for 3 weeks. But now the league is done, and There are good problems to put together for a 4x4. Wait, the Red was crowded? Who knew? And what is the megaprodge? None of this obfuscating modesty! And galunlati is one of my glory zends; manderson fell on it while hanging draws and then I got the flash. Not much to report on here. Posting from endless on a beautiful day of 12 aretes, went to a hilarious amateur boxing shindig on Friday, and am stuck in Onehangville with both the megaprodges. I don't know what you mean by the Red being crowded. The other weekend Shaun and I were the only people at Area 6. Didn't see a soul all day. Seems to me that you are just trying to accept your campground shackles by insisting that you don't feel shackled at all, and are free to roam... you just don't want to roam any farther than you do. But if you wanted to go to the Red, you totally could... I didn't feel crowded on Saturday. There were a bunch of people on Stain (teh prodjekt), but it was cycling through really nicely. I never had to sit too long waiting, every time I was done belaying Ed on Tradsucker, and was ready to climb again, it was my turn. I tried it as many times as I wanted (or had ability to try, anyway). Sunday felt crowded at the Solarium, but it was Ed's choice. And he didn't have to wait in line for his route. There weren't that many more people, really, but somehow the guys on Super Best Friends never let me get in, every time I turned around there was a different group on it, and they would be telling me that there were 3 more people. I really should have given Galunlati another go. After all the effort it took to hang the draws, I should have. But I was so disgusted at the end of it, and felt that I had no energy left to try again, because I used it all up in the first go. But really, if I had waited an hour, I would have been good to go again. Nobody wanted to get on it all day. (maybe bacause it had no draws hanging, LOL) went to red rocks, rolled in late friday night to the site CI and cornelius were sharing with a guy from moab, gaar. did la cierta edad on saturday, thought it was decent if not spectacular. teh 2x agent got the best pitch, the 10a/b crack/stembocks. the 10c pitch was an easy o/w to one 5.10 move pulling out of it to extended 5.7 climbing. we were following killis of mountainproject up the rowt. he talks a lot. rapped as a group of 4 so we didn't have to carry any tag lines, though we figured out you could almost certainly get down with one 70m. also zent grape nuts, a somewhat runout zlab nearby. went sports climbing sunday. started at wake up wall at the sandstone quarry, zent the Angled Dangler in 2 tries. it's a hard onsight due to the crux being a non-intuitive series of shitty crimps, but pretty easy once you have the sequence down, since the climbing is only hard for about 6 ft. wanted to go to sonic youth wall, but could see we'd be persons 8 and 9, so turned around and drove out of the loop to teh cannibal carg. was also crowded, but was able to hang draws on caustic for teh asiant, she zent that in 2 tries. I made a mess of it while zending, basically failing to use all of the gud right hand holds in the upper sections and crimping/gastoning my way through the crux. fortunately, she was able to get some useful beta from others between attempts 1 and 2. I got on New Wave Hookers, which was a kickass rowt. It would take some real effort/wiring to actually zend. I could do all of the moves, but was making a shitshow of the bottom traverse, legs dangling every which way. Cool I wanted to get on New Wave Hookers when we were at Red Rocks last time (with Heffe, December of 2011), but it wasn't meant to be. We only did a few routes that day, it was cold and Heffe took a fall on Baseboy as his very first route, and didn't feel super-happy.
It is interesting. Quite steep. Weird start. There was a very unstable pile of cheatstones that it looked like somebody was trying to use to start on better holds. I ended up ditching the cheatstone pile and using some shitty crimps to get to the initial rail traverse, but even the shitty crimps were quite a reach.
|
|
|
|
|
snoopy138
Nov 5, 2013, 5:16 PM
Post #101357 of 105309
(5500 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28992
|
lena_chita wrote: Got JT bouldering guidebook in the mail last night and wasted hours looking through it. Holly shit there is a lot of stuff there. I need recommendations!
recommendations for bouldering ... I am not of much help there. when are you going to be out here again?
|
|
|
|
|
lena_chita
Moderator
Nov 5, 2013, 6:10 PM
Post #101358 of 105309
(5488 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
|
snoopy138 wrote: lena_chita wrote: Got JT bouldering guidebook in the mail last night and wasted hours looking through it. Holly shit there is a lot of stuff there. I need recommendations! recommendations for bouldering ... I am not of much help there. when are you going to be out here again?
Christmas. I think there are a few people who are very familiar with JT bouldering who have promised me beta, but I haven't asked for details yet. It is still a long ways away.
|
|
|
|
|
curt
Nov 5, 2013, 7:12 PM
Post #101359 of 105309
(5479 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
|
lena_chita wrote: snoopy138 wrote: lena_chita wrote: Got JT bouldering guidebook in the mail last night and wasted hours looking through it. Holly shit there is a lot of stuff there. I need recommendations! recommendations for bouldering ... I am not of much help there. when are you going to be out here again? Christmas. I think there are a few people who are very familiar with JT bouldering who have promised me beta, but I haven't asked for details yet. It is still a long ways away.
I'm your huckleberry 
Curt
|
|
|
|
|
lena_chita
Moderator
Nov 5, 2013, 8:04 PM
Post #101360 of 105309
(5458 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
|
curt wrote: lena_chita wrote: snoopy138 wrote: lena_chita wrote: Got JT bouldering guidebook in the mail last night and wasted hours looking through it. Holly shit there is a lot of stuff there. I need recommendations! recommendations for bouldering ... I am not of much help there. when are you going to be out here again? Christmas. I think there are a few people who are very familiar with JT bouldering who have promised me beta, but I haven't asked for details yet. It is still a long ways away. I'm your huckleberry Curt
I know. You would have been my PERFECT huckleberry if you actually came there to climb, but life is not perfect. I'll settle for the next best thing in the form of beta. 
|
|
|
|
|
lena_chita
Moderator
Nov 11, 2013, 4:40 PM
Post #101361 of 105309
(5359 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
|
Everyone just disappeared... what's the smell?
I had another weekend of great temps, trying hard, and not sending. Tried the project 4 times, 1-hung the project twice. The best I've ever done on it, by far. But not good enough.
Shaun sent Golden Touch on the 3rd go, his 2nd 13b of the season. Ed sent three 5.11a/b's. I am the only one sucking.
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Nov 11, 2013, 4:47 PM
Post #101362 of 105309
(5354 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
Just got back last night. Good times out on the road. Week in red rocks and then a few days in josh.
Hadn't done anything long in red rocks and the routes exceeded expectations. Onzent the Levitation but did a couple other routes that were just as good.
Couple days in Josh was nice. Jack, I'm sorry we didn't get to rope up. Ended up not climbing Sunday at all. Slept in, and then we were drinking beers at 10am in the sun at the compound.
The Blitzo memorial was nice. I thought it found a good balance of respect, along with some fun and debauchery. Blitzo would have approved I think.
Was fun to attend one of these things. Usually Murf calls me in the middle to yell in my ear, and I can hear Sooze laughing in the background. This time it just happened in person.
|
|
|
|
|
granite_grrl
Nov 11, 2013, 4:51 PM
Post #101363 of 105309
(5352 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
|
Was rear ended on Friday night on my way home. Not huge damage and no one got hurt, but they made contact with my rear rim/tire. Tire was starting to bulge on Saturday morning, between my garage, their body shop guy and myself it was decided I shouldn't be driving it.
So Saturday spent the entire morning dealing with the garage and insurance. Another couple of hours on the phone with the insurence company yesterday afternoon. Got the call this morning that my insurence and her insurence agree that it wasn't my fault, but it's still going to be a week+ before I get my car back.
So I've got this Ford Focus as a rental car to drive right now. Pissed because I just got new snow tires on the car and I had to drive through the white stuff with the rental this morning. We'll also be taking the rental to Quebec next weekend for some pegboarding, but again, sucks not to have winter tires.
The rental is all fancy and stuff, keyless starter and what not. I can't say I really trust it though.
|
|
|
|
|
snoopy138
Nov 11, 2013, 5:19 PM
Post #101364 of 105309
(5338 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28992
|
caughtinside wrote: Just got back last night. Good times out on the road. Week in red rocks and then a few days in josh. Hadn't done anything long in red rocks and the routes exceeded expectations. Onzent the Levitation but did a couple other routes that were just as good. Couple days in Josh was nice. Jack, I'm sorry we didn't get to rope up. Ended up not climbing Sunday at all. Slept in, and then we were drinking beers at 10am in the sun at the compound. The Blitzo memorial was nice. I thought it found a good balance of respect, along with some fun and debauchery. Blitzo would have approved I think. Was fun to attend one of these things. Usually Murf calls me in the middle to yell in my ear, and I can hear Sooze laughing in the background. This time it just happened in person.
So you never made it out to teh zion? What else did you guys get on in red rocks?
was out in josh yesterday -- zent Runaway, which I'd fallen on before, then went over and onzent Martin Quits. Did C&J yet again after the 2x agent found herself unable to make the move up to the horizontal with the #1 placement. dropped a rope on the beaver and got my ass kicked.
|
|
|
|
|
lena_chita
Moderator
Nov 11, 2013, 6:15 PM
Post #101365 of 105309
(5326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
|
granite_grrl wrote: Was rear ended on Friday night on my way home. Not huge damage and no one got hurt, but they made contact with my rear rim/tire. Tire was starting to bulge on Saturday morning, between my garage, their body shop guy and myself it was decided I shouldn't be driving it. So Saturday spent the entire morning dealing with the garage and insurance. Another couple of hours on the phone with the insurence company yesterday afternoon. Got the call this morning that my insurence and her insurence agree that it wasn't my fault, but it's still going to be a week+ before I get my car back. So I've got this Ford Focus as a rental car to drive right now. Pissed because I just got new snow tires on the car and I had to drive through the white stuff with the rental this morning. We'll also be taking the rental to Quebec next weekend for some pegboarding, but again, sucks not to have winter tires. The rental is all fancy and stuff, keyless starter and what not. I can't say I really trust it though.
Oh, that sucks!
But now would be the perfect time to drive the rental car to... I dunno? RRG?
|
|
|
|
|
granite_grrl
Nov 11, 2013, 6:21 PM
Post #101366 of 105309
(5323 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
|
lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: Was rear ended on Friday night on my way home. Not huge damage and no one got hurt, but they made contact with my rear rim/tire. Tire was starting to bulge on Saturday morning, between my garage, their body shop guy and myself it was decided I shouldn't be driving it. So Saturday spent the entire morning dealing with the garage and insurance. Another couple of hours on the phone with the insurence company yesterday afternoon. Got the call this morning that my insurence and her insurence agree that it wasn't my fault, but it's still going to be a week+ before I get my car back. So I've got this Ford Focus as a rental car to drive right now. Pissed because I just got new snow tires on the car and I had to drive through the white stuff with the rental this morning. We'll also be taking the rental to Quebec next weekend for some pegboarding, but again, sucks not to have winter tires. The rental is all fancy and stuff, keyless starter and what not. I can't say I really trust it though. Oh, that sucks! But now would be the perfect time to drive the rental car to... I dunno? RRG?
It's pegboarding season, Lena, I thought you new.
I'm also at that sweet spot where you're progressing at a skill really fast, like week to week. I know it's going to slow down soon, but I'm getting way better at figure-4s and starting to pull harder.
|
|
|
|
|
lena_chita
Moderator
Nov 11, 2013, 6:41 PM
Post #101367 of 105309
(5318 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
|
granite_grrl wrote: lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: Was rear ended on Friday night on my way home. Not huge damage and no one got hurt, but they made contact with my rear rim/tire. Tire was starting to bulge on Saturday morning, between my garage, their body shop guy and myself it was decided I shouldn't be driving it. So Saturday spent the entire morning dealing with the garage and insurance. Another couple of hours on the phone with the insurence company yesterday afternoon. Got the call this morning that my insurence and her insurence agree that it wasn't my fault, but it's still going to be a week+ before I get my car back. So I've got this Ford Focus as a rental car to drive right now. Pissed because I just got new snow tires on the car and I had to drive through the white stuff with the rental this morning. We'll also be taking the rental to Quebec next weekend for some pegboarding, but again, sucks not to have winter tires. The rental is all fancy and stuff, keyless starter and what not. I can't say I really trust it though. Oh, that sucks! But now would be the perfect time to drive the rental car to... I dunno? RRG? It's pegboarding season, Lena, I thought you new. I'm also at that sweet spot where you're progressing at a skill really fast, like week to week. I know it's going to slow down soon, but I'm getting way better at figure-4s and starting to pull harder.
Last time I checked, "pegboarding season" was not in the rules. I mean, I know they are more like guidelines, but still...
Good jorb getting stronger.it's a good feeling.
I felt good going from hanging-on-every-bolt to 1-hang. But it is so weird how my ability to do something changes with time. I definitely feel that my power is going down as my endurance improves.
The first crux move, on the prodje, I was making this reach to a good crimp, and it worked every single time I tried it last weekend. It was a stretch with a deep lock-off on the other arm, but I had a good foot, and it wasn't too bad.
Then this weekend, I couldn't reach it, with the same foot, no matter how i tried. But miraculously, there is another crimp below it, and then I can cross to the good crimp, and then cross again to another shitty crimp, and it still works out, I get back into sequence. I couldn't even imagine hanging out on those other crimps the first time i worked out this move, but now it seems like not too bad.
But wtf?
|
|
|
|
|
climbs4fun
Moderator
Nov 12, 2013, 12:09 AM
Post #101368 of 105309
(5294 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 19, 2003
Posts: 9679
|
lena_chita wrote: curt wrote: lena_chita wrote: snoopy138 wrote: lena_chita wrote: Got JT bouldering guidebook in the mail last night and wasted hours looking through it. Holly shit there is a lot of stuff there. I need recommendations! recommendations for bouldering ... I am not of much help there. when are you going to be out here again? Christmas. I think there are a few people who are very familiar with JT bouldering who have promised me beta, but I haven't asked for details yet. It is still a long ways away. I'm your huckleberry Curt I know. You would have been my PERFECT huckleberry if you actually came there to climb, but life is not perfect. I'll settle for the next best thing in the form of beta.
He'd go. I've seen Curt at JT many times. He just won't camp
|
|
|
|
|
climbs4fun
Moderator
Nov 12, 2013, 12:14 AM
Post #101369 of 105309
(5292 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 19, 2003
Posts: 9679
|
CI and Snoppy... You suck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Nobody texted me for beerz. I would have come to your campsite 
|
|
|
|
|
curt
Nov 12, 2013, 1:03 AM
Post #101370 of 105309
(5281 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
|
climbs4fun wrote: lena_chita wrote: curt wrote: lena_chita wrote: snoopy138 wrote: lena_chita wrote: Got JT bouldering guidebook in the mail last night and wasted hours looking through it. Holly shit there is a lot of stuff there. I need recommendations! recommendations for bouldering ... I am not of much help there. when are you going to be out here again? Christmas. I think there are a few people who are very familiar with JT bouldering who have promised me beta, but I haven't asked for details yet. It is still a long ways away. I'm your huckleberry Curt I know. You would have been my PERFECT huckleberry if you actually came there to climb, but life is not perfect. I'll settle for the next best thing in the form of beta. He'd go. I've seen Curt at JT many times. He just won't camp
I will camp. Just not in less than 3-star hotels.
Curt
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Nov 12, 2013, 1:40 AM
Post #101371 of 105309
(5268 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: Just got back last night. Good times out on the road. Week in red rocks and then a few days in josh. Hadn't done anything long in red rocks and the routes exceeded expectations. Onzent the Levitation but did a couple other routes that were just as good. Couple days in Josh was nice. Jack, I'm sorry we didn't get to rope up. Ended up not climbing Sunday at all. Slept in, and then we were drinking beers at 10am in the sun at the compound. The Blitzo memorial was nice. I thought it found a good balance of respect, along with some fun and debauchery. Blitzo would have approved I think. Was fun to attend one of these things. Usually Murf calls me in the middle to yell in my ear, and I can hear Sooze laughing in the background. This time it just happened in person. So you never made it out to teh zion? What else did you guys get on in red rocks? was out in josh yesterday -- zent Runaway, which I'd fallen on before, then went over and onzent Martin Quits. Did C&J yet again after the 2x agent found herself unable to make the move up to the horizontal with the #1 placement. dropped a rope on the beaver and got my ass kicked.
hah. I was supposed to meet Jack out at the Run for your life. We hiked out and there were dudes on it. So we did ball bearing. Walked over to look, still dudes, but I guess they were our dudes. I yelled "JACK!" but no reply. So we did C&J so Cornelius could do it. I regurgitated the old v0 to 5.9. At this point I've said it so much I believed it, and snadbagged myself. That thing... is still sort of hard.
Red Rocks... we did Risky Business and Tooth or Consequences. Risky is outstanding, better than Fiddler. Tooth was pretty damn neat. 8 pitches, not very hard or sustained, but interesting. Had a one move wonder crux.
|
|
|
|
|
dr_feelgood
Nov 12, 2013, 2:18 AM
Post #101373 of 105309
(5250 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 26060
|
lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: Was rear ended on Friday night on my way home. Not huge damage and no one got hurt, but they made contact with my rear rim/tire. Tire was starting to bulge on Saturday morning, between my garage, their body shop guy and myself it was decided I shouldn't be driving it. So Saturday spent the entire morning dealing with the garage and insurance. Another couple of hours on the phone with the insurence company yesterday afternoon. Got the call this morning that my insurence and her insurence agree that it wasn't my fault, but it's still going to be a week+ before I get my car back. So I've got this Ford Focus as a rental car to drive right now. Pissed because I just got new snow tires on the car and I had to drive through the white stuff with the rental this morning. We'll also be taking the rental to Quebec next weekend for some pegboarding, but again, sucks not to have winter tires. The rental is all fancy and stuff, keyless starter and what not. I can't say I really trust it though. Oh, that sucks! But now would be the perfect time to drive the rental car to... I dunno? RRG? It's pegboarding season, Lena, I thought you new. I'm also at that sweet spot where you're progressing at a skill really fast, like week to week. I know it's going to slow down soon, but I'm getting way better at figure-4s and starting to pull harder. Last time I checked, "pegboarding season" was not in the rules. I mean, I know they are more like guidelines, but still... Good jorb getting stronger.it's a good feeling. I felt good going from hanging-on-every-bolt to 1-hang. But it is so weird how my ability to do something changes with time. I definitely feel that my power is going down as my endurance improves. The first crux move, on the prodje, I was making this reach to a good crimp, and it worked every single time I tried it last weekend. It was a stretch with a deep lock-off on the other arm, but I had a good foot, and it wasn't too bad. Then this weekend, I couldn't reach it, with the same foot, no matter how i tried. But miraculously, there is another crimp below it, and then I can cross to the good crimp, and then cross again to another shitty crimp, and it still works out, I get back into sequence. I couldn't even imagine hanging out on those other crimps the first time i worked out this move, but now it seems like not too bad. But wtf?
It falls under the ICE TAWK rule.
|
|
|
|
|
lena_chita
Moderator
Nov 12, 2013, 3:29 PM
Post #101374 of 105309
(5228 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
|
curt wrote: climbs4fun wrote: lena_chita wrote: curt wrote: lena_chita wrote: snoopy138 wrote: lena_chita wrote: Got JT bouldering guidebook in the mail last night and wasted hours looking through it. Holly shit there is a lot of stuff there. I need recommendations! recommendations for bouldering ... I am not of much help there. when are you going to be out here again? Christmas. I think there are a few people who are very familiar with JT bouldering who have promised me beta, but I haven't asked for details yet. It is still a long ways away. I'm your huckleberry Curt I know. You would have been my PERFECT huckleberry if you actually came there to climb, but life is not perfect. I'll settle for the next best thing in the form of beta. He'd go. I've seen Curt at JT many times. He just won't camp I will camp. Just not in less than 3-star hotels. Curt
And not when family obligations interfere. I wish I had the audacity to quote Jack's rules guidelines to you... But I know what's good for me, and getting beta along the lines of "try this really chill V3 that i do in approach shoes" (oh, yeah, btw, it is 20 ft tall with a bad landing) is not worth the satisfaction of rule-quoting.
|
|
|
|
|
|
