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granite_grrl


Aug 18, 2014, 10:10 AM
Post #103151 of 105309 (4132 views)
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084

Re: [lena_chita] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
camhead wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
In other news, I went out climbing last night. The fellow I was with is kinda newer to leading and he death gripped and took a couple of good falls, but I still needed to finish off the route and clean the draws for him.

Climbing that route a few times took more out of me than it really should have, and by the time I hopped on my project there I didn't do much more than bolt to bolt it. I felt really tired at the time trial on Wednesday night too. I'm taking today off as a rest day and plan to go to bed early tonight so hopefully I'll recover and climb pretty okay this weekend.

you're probibly tiring yourself out with all the cross-training.

Yurp. Read the Mandersons, cross-training is counter-productive.

I like biking.

I contemplated another reason why I might be so low energy. Nathan has been complaining that my breath has been "off" (not "bad" persay, but not right either). My bowls haven't returned to normal after the crazy antibiotics I took for my kidney infection either. I concluded that both have probably been caused by belly bacteria issues from the antibiotics.

I poked around online to make sure the breath thing could be related to belly bacteria and came across a couple of places that talked about B vitamin intake being effected by antibiotics because you need certain belly bacteria to process them properly.


Regardless if this is the reason for my low energy last week or not, I bought another package of probiotics to try to get things back on track. Since this incident I have decided that antibiotics are scary (even if they stop my kidneys from hurting).

Yeah, antibiotics are scary. But what are you going to do, for kidney infection? I try not to think too much about antibiotic use associated with breast cancer, and all this other stuff... when you have to take them, you have to. Or you might not live long enough to get breast cancer. But yeah, it is definitely not something to be taken lightly. And the attitude is really changing, slowly, but it is. When D. was a baby, the dr was of the "here, I will write you a prescription now, take it just in case". By the time A. came along, it was more of a "wait a few days, it might get better on it's own"

I hope those probiotics help. I always tried to take some probiotics after finishing a course of antibiotics. But I don't take them regularly.

Things I have read all say that it is really hard to repopulate the gut flora, and those probiotics improve things as long as you are taking them, but rarely result in the bacteria permanently repopulating the guts, so you have to keep taking probiotics for a long time. E.i. they just come out with the poop, instead of staying in your intestines, if you don't keep taking the probiotics to continuously replenish things. But while they are there, they do make things better.

There is a lot of interesting stuff on gut flora. I mean actual research, and no just the popular writing from people who are trying to sell you stuff.

That would explain why things one got gradually better after getting off antibiotics the first time. I only had a bottle of 30 probiotics to start with, and I popped one a few hours each time I took an antibiotic....and then for a while after I finished antibiotics. Needless to say the first bottle didn't last long.

This pack is another pack of 30, so I'll just take one a day until they're gone again. Hopefully things will be significantly better in a month.

I read a few other things while I was taking antibiotics the first time. The one study said that things recovered after one course of antibiotics, but if you have to take a second course within a few month your gut was pretty fucked.


snoopy138


Aug 18, 2014, 5:50 PM
Post #103152 of 105309 (4118 views)
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Re: [caughtinside] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
Was supposed to do a full day out today but my partner called yesterday and is leaving on a last minute trip to the Fins tomorrow. Bouldering instead today. Jealous bouldering.

went to teh hole on saturday. did not zend. thought I was going well on the 5-finger, but fumbled the shit out of a couple clips, and that was that.

had a good 1-hang TR run on the drive-by, that was nice. got pumped.

went to the dodgers game saturday night, watched Kershaw pitch. K'd 11, but took the loss on account of 2 homers and minimal run support. Still don't know why he thought it'd be a good idea to throw a first-pitch fastball to Carlos Gomez, who drilled it to the back of the left field bullpen.


dr_feelgood


Aug 18, 2014, 6:50 PM
Post #103153 of 105309 (4110 views)
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Re: [granite_grrl] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
camhead wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
In other news, I went out climbing last night. The fellow I was with is kinda newer to leading and he death gripped and took a couple of good falls, but I still needed to finish off the route and clean the draws for him.

Climbing that route a few times took more out of me than it really should have, and by the time I hopped on my project there I didn't do much more than bolt to bolt it. I felt really tired at the time trial on Wednesday night too. I'm taking today off as a rest day and plan to go to bed early tonight so hopefully I'll recover and climb pretty okay this weekend.

you're probibly tiring yourself out with all the cross-training.

Yurp. Read the Mandersons, cross-training is counter-productive.

I like biking.

I contemplated another reason why I might be so low energy. Nathan has been complaining that my breath has been "off" (not "bad" persay, but not right either). My bowls haven't returned to normal after the crazy antibiotics I took for my kidney infection either. I concluded that both have probably been caused by belly bacteria issues from the antibiotics.

I poked around online to make sure the breath thing could be related to belly bacteria and came across a couple of places that talked about B vitamin intake being effected by antibiotics because you need certain belly bacteria to process them properly.


Regardless if this is the reason for my low energy last week or not, I bought another package of probiotics to try to get things back on track. Since this incident I have decided that antibiotics are scary (even if they stop my kidneys from hurting).

Yeah, antibiotics are scary. But what are you going to do, for kidney infection? I try not to think too much about antibiotic use associated with breast cancer, and all this other stuff... when you have to take them, you have to. Or you might not live long enough to get breast cancer. But yeah, it is definitely not something to be taken lightly. And the attitude is really changing, slowly, but it is. When D. was a baby, the dr was of the "here, I will write you a prescription now, take it just in case". By the time A. came along, it was more of a "wait a few days, it might get better on it's own"

I hope those probiotics help. I always tried to take some probiotics after finishing a course of antibiotics. But I don't take them regularly.

Things I have read all say that it is really hard to repopulate the gut flora, and those probiotics improve things as long as you are taking them, but rarely result in the bacteria permanently repopulating the guts, so you have to keep taking probiotics for a long time. E.i. they just come out with the poop, instead of staying in your intestines, if you don't keep taking the probiotics to continuously replenish things. But while they are there, they do make things better.

There is a lot of interesting stuff on gut flora. I mean actual research, and no just the popular writing from people who are trying to sell you stuff.

That would explain why things one got gradually better after getting off antibiotics the first time. I only had a bottle of 30 probiotics to start with, and I popped one a few hours each time I took an antibiotic....and then for a while after I finished antibiotics. Needless to say the first bottle didn't last long.

This pack is another pack of 30, so I'll just take one a day until they're gone again. Hopefully things will be significantly better in a month.

I read a few other things while I was taking antibiotics the first time. The one study said that things recovered after one course of antibiotics, but if you have to take a second course within a few month your gut was pretty fucked.

Intestinal bacteria is remarkably important. I had some GI issues after my trip to the bugs (damn you, twizzlers!), and probiotics basically made life tolerable... especially if I chased the probiotics with some sugar water.


lena_chita
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Aug 19, 2014, 8:45 AM
Post #103154 of 105309 (4085 views)
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
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Re: [dr_feelgood] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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dr_feelgood wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
camhead wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
In other news, I went out climbing last night. The fellow I was with is kinda newer to leading and he death gripped and took a couple of good falls, but I still needed to finish off the route and clean the draws for him.

Climbing that route a few times took more out of me than it really should have, and by the time I hopped on my project there I didn't do much more than bolt to bolt it. I felt really tired at the time trial on Wednesday night too. I'm taking today off as a rest day and plan to go to bed early tonight so hopefully I'll recover and climb pretty okay this weekend.

you're probibly tiring yourself out with all the cross-training.

Yurp. Read the Mandersons, cross-training is counter-productive.

I like biking.

I contemplated another reason why I might be so low energy. Nathan has been complaining that my breath has been "off" (not "bad" persay, but not right either). My bowls haven't returned to normal after the crazy antibiotics I took for my kidney infection either. I concluded that both have probably been caused by belly bacteria issues from the antibiotics.

I poked around online to make sure the breath thing could be related to belly bacteria and came across a couple of places that talked about B vitamin intake being effected by antibiotics because you need certain belly bacteria to process them properly.


Regardless if this is the reason for my low energy last week or not, I bought another package of probiotics to try to get things back on track. Since this incident I have decided that antibiotics are scary (even if they stop my kidneys from hurting).

Yeah, antibiotics are scary. But what are you going to do, for kidney infection? I try not to think too much about antibiotic use associated with breast cancer, and all this other stuff... when you have to take them, you have to. Or you might not live long enough to get breast cancer. But yeah, it is definitely not something to be taken lightly. And the attitude is really changing, slowly, but it is. When D. was a baby, the dr was of the "here, I will write you a prescription now, take it just in case". By the time A. came along, it was more of a "wait a few days, it might get better on it's own"

I hope those probiotics help. I always tried to take some probiotics after finishing a course of antibiotics. But I don't take them regularly.

Things I have read all say that it is really hard to repopulate the gut flora, and those probiotics improve things as long as you are taking them, but rarely result in the bacteria permanently repopulating the guts, so you have to keep taking probiotics for a long time. E.i. they just come out with the poop, instead of staying in your intestines, if you don't keep taking the probiotics to continuously replenish things. But while they are there, they do make things better.

There is a lot of interesting stuff on gut flora. I mean actual research, and no just the popular writing from people who are trying to sell you stuff.

That would explain why things one got gradually better after getting off antibiotics the first time. I only had a bottle of 30 probiotics to start with, and I popped one a few hours each time I took an antibiotic....and then for a while after I finished antibiotics. Needless to say the first bottle didn't last long.

This pack is another pack of 30, so I'll just take one a day until they're gone again. Hopefully things will be significantly better in a month.

I read a few other things while I was taking antibiotics the first time. The one study said that things recovered after one course of antibiotics, but if you have to take a second course within a few month your gut was pretty fucked.

Intestinal bacteria is remarkably important. I had some GI issues after my trip to the bugs (damn you, twizzlers!), and probiotics basically made life tolerable... especially if I chased the probiotics with some sugar water.

Heh, all this talk about probiotics made me dig out my bottle of pills from the fridge, and take one. Maybe it will help my knee.


Partner cracklover


Aug 19, 2014, 2:59 PM
Post #103155 of 105309 (4066 views)
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Re: [lena_chita] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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We know what you really meant...

lena_chita wrote:
There is a lot of interesting stuff on gut flora. I mean actual research, and no just the popular writing from people who are trying to sell you stuff shit.

Fixied. And it's the truth: Sausage Made With Bacteria From Baby Poop Isnít as Gross as It Sounds

GO


lena_chita
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Aug 20, 2014, 6:08 AM
Post #103156 of 105309 (4033 views)
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Re: [cracklover] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
We know what you really meant...

lena_chita wrote:
There is a lot of interesting stuff on gut flora. I mean actual research, and no just the popular writing from people who are trying to sell you stuff shit.

Fixied. And it's the truth: Sausage Made With Bacteria From Baby Poop Isnít as Gross as It Sounds

GO

Haha. I love when people are trying to explain science to those tho don't understand it. " The bacteria was ISOLATED from poop. By the time it i grown and makes it back into pills (or sausages) there is no carryover of the original material"

The people who go "ewww, gross", are probably typing it on the computer keyboard that have more live fecal bacteria than those sausages.

Making a sausage with it sort of defeats the purpose though. If you cook the sausage, you cook the bugs, too! If you don't cook the sausage enough to kill the good bugs, you risk also not killing Salmonella, and other crap.


Partner cracklover


Aug 20, 2014, 12:32 PM
Post #103157 of 105309 (4001 views)
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Re: [lena_chita] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
cracklover wrote:
We know what you really meant...

lena_chita wrote:
There is a lot of interesting stuff on gut flora. I mean actual research, and no just the popular writing from people who are trying to sell you stuff shit.

Fixied. And it's the truth: Sausage Made With Bacteria From Baby Poop Isnít as Gross as It Sounds

GO

Haha. I love when people are trying to explain science to those tho don't understand it. " The bacteria was ISOLATED from poop. By the time it i grown and makes it back into pills (or sausages) there is no carryover of the original material"

The people who go "ewww, gross", are probably typing it on the computer keyboard that have more live fecal bacteria than those sausages.

Making a sausage with it sort of defeats the purpose though. If you cook the sausage, you cook the bugs, too! If you don't cook the sausage enough to kill the good bugs, you risk also not killing Salmonella, and other crap shit.

You just keep pitching me these softballs, how can I not keep swinging at them? I do hope this time you did it on purpose. If so, that was a nice gift.

GO


granite_grrl


Aug 20, 2014, 1:59 PM
Post #103158 of 105309 (3989 views)
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Re: [cracklover] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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So In an effort to gain recognition in Ontario for competitive ice climbing Nathan and I will be hosting a small figure 4 comp at a local climbing festival.

Get to the end (or do well) you'll get a beer. Proceeds go to the local access organization. So far we had to build the structure and the best I could do was get 50% off the beer, which will makes it $1.40 a can.

Hopefully this event actually makes some money for the access coalition and gets us some recognition. I've never been to this event before (it's only in it's second year) so it might be a flop. We'll see!


lena_chita
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Aug 20, 2014, 4:42 PM
Post #103159 of 105309 (3979 views)
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Re: [cracklover] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
cracklover wrote:
We know what you really meant...

lena_chita wrote:
There is a lot of interesting stuff on gut flora. I mean actual research, and no just the popular writing from people who are trying to sell you stuff shit.

Fixied. And it's the truth: Sausage Made With Bacteria From Baby Poop Isnít as Gross as It Sounds

GO

Haha. I love when people are trying to explain science to those tho don't understand it. " The bacteria was ISOLATED from poop. By the time it i grown and makes it back into pills (or sausages) there is no carryover of the original material"

The people who go "ewww, gross", are probably typing it on the computer keyboard that have more live fecal bacteria than those sausages.

Making a sausage with it sort of defeats the purpose though. If you cook the sausage, you cook the bugs, too! If you don't cook the sausage enough to kill the good bugs, you risk also not killing Salmonella, and other crap shit.

You just keep pitching me these softballs, how can I not keep swinging at them? I do hope this time you did it on purpose. If so, that was a nice gift.

GO

I will get you a softball pinata, so you can swing at it to your heart's content, for your birthday, maybe. With stuff inside. Tongue


lena_chita
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Aug 20, 2014, 4:44 PM
Post #103160 of 105309 (3978 views)
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Re: [granite_grrl] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
So In an effort to gain recognition in Ontario for competitive ice climbing Nathan and I will be hosting a small figure 4 comp at a local climbing festival.

Get to the end (or do well) you'll get a beer. Proceeds go to the local access organization. So far we had to build the structure and the best I could do was get 50% off the beer, which will makes it $1.40 a can.

Hopefully this event actually makes some money for the access coalition and gets us some recognition. I've never been to this event before (it's only in it's second year) so it might be a flop. We'll see!

Hopefully not a flop. That's a fair bit of work though. Good for you guys.


granite_grrl


Aug 20, 2014, 5:33 PM
Post #103161 of 105309 (3971 views)
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Re: [lena_chita] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
So In an effort to gain recognition in Ontario for competitive ice climbing Nathan and I will be hosting a small figure 4 comp at a local climbing festival.

Get to the end (or do well) you'll get a beer. Proceeds go to the local access organization. So far we had to build the structure and the best I could do was get 50% off the beer, which will makes it $1.40 a can.

Hopefully this event actually makes some money for the access coalition and gets us some recognition. I've never been to this event before (it's only in it's second year) so it might be a flop. We'll see!

Hopefully not a flop. That's a fair bit of work though. Good for you guys.

It is, but I guess that's part of the jorb?


carabiner96


Aug 21, 2014, 9:19 AM
Post #103162 of 105309 (3933 views)
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Re: [dr_feelgood] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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*disclaimer- this is all gym talk so we all know it doesn't really count anyway*

3 weeks away from the first round of competition and last night I onsighted my first 11a. That means I'm two full number grades above where I started 6 weeks ago. Which is both good, and frustrating because I'm still improving so I feel like I won't truly be at my best in Spain if there's room to improve. Kicking myself for not taking the seriously starting in April or some such. But, it's nice to feel strong and to feel the work paying off. Outside of bagging 14ers I'm not doing any cross training, just climbing x4 a week.

Heading up to boulder canyon this weekend so we'll see if any of this makes a difference in the real world!

The garden is suffering from my absence but the chickens are up to 4 eggs a day!


lena_chita
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Aug 21, 2014, 9:22 AM
Post #103163 of 105309 (3932 views)
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Re: [carabiner96] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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carabiner96 wrote:
*disclaimer- this is all gym talk so we all know it doesn't really count anyway*

3 weeks away from the first round of competition and last night I onsighted my first 11a. That means I'm two full number grades above where I started 6 weeks ago. Which is both good, and frustrating because I'm still improving so I feel like I won't truly be at my best in Spain if there's room to improve. Kicking myself for not taking the seriously starting in April or some such. But, it's nice to feel strong and to feel the work paying off. Outside of bagging 14ers I'm not doing any cross training, just climbing x4 a week.

Heading up to boulder canyon this weekend so we'll see if any of this makes a difference in the real world!

The garden is suffering from my absence but the chickens are up to 4 eggs a day!

Oh, it counts (let's see if this statement makes jack out of hiding!)

I mean, hard to track progress without paying attention to this kind of stuff.

Nice werk, both you and the chickens.


carabiner96


Aug 21, 2014, 9:41 AM
Post #103164 of 105309 (3925 views)
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Re: [lena_chita] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:
*disclaimer- this is all gym talk so we all know it doesn't really count anyway*

3 weeks away from the first round of competition and last night I onsighted my first 11a. That means I'm two full number grades above where I started 6 weeks ago. Which is both good, and frustrating because I'm still improving so I feel like I won't truly be at my best in Spain if there's room to improve. Kicking myself for not taking the seriously starting in April or some such. But, it's nice to feel strong and to feel the work paying off. Outside of bagging 14ers I'm not doing any cross training, just climbing x4 a week.

Heading up to boulder canyon this weekend so we'll see if any of this makes a difference in the real world!

The garden is suffering from my absence but the chickens are up to 4 eggs a day!

Oh, it counts (let's see if this statement makes jack out of hiding!)

I mean, hard to track progress without paying attention to this kind of stuff.

Nice werk, both you and the chickens.
One of them is super dumb and keeps laying in the middle of the run.


Partner camhead


Aug 21, 2014, 9:48 AM
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Re: [carabiner96] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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carabiner96 wrote:

3 weeks away from the first round of competition and last night I onsighted my first 11a. That means I'm two full number grades above where I started 6 weeks ago. Which is both good, and frustrating because I'm still improving so I feel like I won't truly be at my best in Spain if there's room to improve.

Nice!

This is not necessarily something to be frustrated about. Everyone plateaus in their fitness and training at some opint, and it is VERY likely that you'll just reach a peak around the time you get to Spain. If you had a few years of training under your belt, and knew how your peaks and plateaus worked, that would be better, but it sounds like you're in a good place to be going to the comp in three weeks. Keep at it, don't overtrain, and when you add the mental psych of being in competition, you'll crush!


granite_grrl


Aug 21, 2014, 10:46 AM
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Re: [carabiner96] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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carabiner96 wrote:
*disclaimer- this is all gym talk so we all know it doesn't really count anyway*

3 weeks away from the first round of competition and last night I onsighted my first 11a. That means I'm two full number grades above where I started 6 weeks ago. Which is both good, and frustrating because I'm still improving so I feel like I won't truly be at my best in Spain if there's room to improve. Kicking myself for not taking the seriously starting in April or some such. But, it's nice to feel strong and to feel the work paying off. Outside of bagging 14ers I'm not doing any cross training, just climbing x4 a week.

Heading up to boulder canyon this weekend so we'll see if any of this makes a difference in the real world!

The garden is suffering from my absence but the chickens are up to 4 eggs a day!

good werk!

I'm not in terrible rock climbing shape, but I'm not in as good of shape as I was last year (almost, not quite though). But that's okay, but unlike Mo, a big reason for this is that I started my training for Ice Climbing World Cup over a month ago.

I'll still be slaughtered in the comps by the top end people, but I hope to climb respectably.


granite_grrl


Aug 21, 2014, 10:48 AM
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Re: [camhead] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:

3 weeks away from the first round of competition and last night I onsighted my first 11a. That means I'm two full number grades above where I started 6 weeks ago. Which is both good, and frustrating because I'm still improving so I feel like I won't truly be at my best in Spain if there's room to improve.

Nice!

This is not necessarily something to be frustrated about. Everyone plateaus in their fitness and training at some opint, and it is VERY likely that you'll just reach a peak around the time you get to Spain. If you had a few years of training under your belt, and knew how your peaks and plateaus worked, that would be better, but it sounds like you're in a good place to be going to the comp in three weeks. Keep at it, don't overtrain, and when you add the mental psych of being in competition, you'll crush!

Not over training is a big one when you're this close!

Will there be any live streaming?


carabiner96


Aug 21, 2014, 10:51 AM
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Re: [camhead] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:

3 weeks away from the first round of competition and last night I onsighted my first 11a. That means I'm two full number grades above where I started 6 weeks ago. Which is both good, and frustrating because I'm still improving so I feel like I won't truly be at my best in Spain if there's room to improve.

Nice!

This is not necessarily something to be frustrated about. Everyone plateaus in their fitness and training at some opint, and it is VERY likely that you'll just reach a peak around the time you get to Spain. If you had a few years of training under your belt, and knew how your peaks and plateaus worked, that would be better, but it sounds like you're in a good place to be going to the comp in three weeks. Keep at it, don't overtrain, and when you add the mental psych of being in competition, you'll crush!
im at an overly motivated place now where I climbed the last two nights in a row- bad idea! I'm so sore and tight. Elbow is still pulling through though, minimal icing needed!

The lumberjack is climbing again :)

I'm a poor loser. If I don't win I know I'll be second guessing every cupcake I ate and every push up I didn't do - unless some gimpy chick is climbing 13s, then I'll happily concede! But I do think I could be doing select 12s, if they were particularly suited to me.

Unfortunately climbs that suits me generally aren't the style you find in comps. I need to get on some big burly overhanging stuff. My roof skills have GREATLY improved since nationals, now I just need more of it.

Weekend after I get back from Spain I'm spending four days at shelf and hope to not touch plastic for at least a month!


carabiner96


Aug 21, 2014, 10:55 AM
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Re: [granite_grrl] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
camhead wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:

3 weeks away from the first round of competition and last night I onsighted my first 11a. That means I'm two full number grades above where I started 6 weeks ago. Which is both good, and frustrating because I'm still improving so I feel like I won't truly be at my best in Spain if there's room to improve.

Nice!

This is not necessarily something to be frustrated about. Everyone plateaus in their fitness and training at some opint, and it is VERY likely that you'll just reach a peak around the time you get to Spain. If you had a few years of training under your belt, and knew how your peaks and plateaus worked, that would be better, but it sounds like you're in a good place to be going to the comp in three weeks. Keep at it, don't overtrain, and when you add the mental psych of being in competition, you'll crush!

Not over training is a big one when you're this close!

Will there be any live streaming?
The way I see it... Travel sat and Sunday so those are rest days, I'll do a light day in the gym Monday, qualifiers are Wednesday, we're going outside climbing Thursday, then rest til finals which are either Saturday or Sunday. Till then I'm just keeping my every other day, plus volleyball x2 weekly.

Hope so on the streaming front but I'm not sure they'd show us gimps. I think they generally do for the abled folks. Same venue so I don't see why the would just click 'cast'.


carabiner96


Aug 21, 2014, 11:04 AM
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granite_grrl wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:
*disclaimer- this is all gym talk so we all know it doesn't really count anyway*

3 weeks away from the first round of competition and last night I onsighted my first 11a. That means I'm two full number grades above where I started 6 weeks ago. Which is both good, and frustrating because I'm still improving so I feel like I won't truly be at my best in Spain if there's room to improve. Kicking myself for not taking the seriously starting in April or some such. But, it's nice to feel strong and to feel the work paying off. Outside of bagging 14ers I'm not doing any cross training, just climbing x4 a week.

Heading up to boulder canyon this weekend so we'll see if any of this makes a difference in the real world!

The garden is suffering from my absence but the chickens are up to 4 eggs a day!

good werk!

I'm not in terrible rock climbing shape, but I'm not in as good of shape as I was last year (almost, not quite though). But that's okay, but unlike Mo, a big reason for this is that I started my training for Ice Climbing World Cup over a month ago.

I'll still be slaughtered in the comps by the top end people, but I hope to climb respectably.
are you doing ouray or just Bozeman? If you're there I'd probably go to ouray to cheer you guys on, otherwise id go on a quieter weekend.

Did you see they're going to build a massive ice park near vail?!?


Partner camhead


Aug 21, 2014, 11:24 AM
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Speaking of training, I'm still in the power/max recruitment phase of my training. Was able to do some cool stuff at City, but am definitely not at my peak right now. Fortunately, I've been able to get to a gym every other day, and the campusing is really improving quickly!

The local gym near my folks' place in Logan is kind of mediocre; not great porbelms, infested with blond Mormons and their kids, and the campus bored does not even have consistent spacing. But, it still works. Yesterday I was in SLC for a book tawk, and dropped into the new Momentum gym there. That place has the best training set up I've ever seen; an entire second floor with a full weight room, two giant systems walls, six hangboreds including the Moon and Beastmakers 1000 and 2000, and six different sizes of 9 rung campus boreds with Metolius spacing. It was amazing; wish I had something like that in Fayettenam. Managed to finally do the fabled 1-5-9 campus move, although it was on really big holds, so not a big deal.


granite_grrl


Aug 21, 2014, 11:25 AM
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Re: [carabiner96] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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Hey Mo, it's tomato season up here, picked up a half bushel of Roma's last weekend for $13. Lovely big guys too.

I've been curious about making ketchup since you talked about it here a while ago, but I'm also thinking it's going to be too much effort if I have to skin them by hand, and WAY too much effort if I need to remove the skins.

How many tomatoes do you use for a batch? I don't go through that much ketchup in a year anyway.


granite_grrl


Aug 21, 2014, 11:27 AM
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Re: [carabiner96] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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carabiner96 wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:
*disclaimer- this is all gym talk so we all know it doesn't really count anyway*

3 weeks away from the first round of competition and last night I onsighted my first 11a. That means I'm two full number grades above where I started 6 weeks ago. Which is both good, and frustrating because I'm still improving so I feel like I won't truly be at my best in Spain if there's room to improve. Kicking myself for not taking the seriously starting in April or some such. But, it's nice to feel strong and to feel the work paying off. Outside of bagging 14ers I'm not doing any cross training, just climbing x4 a week.

Heading up to boulder canyon this weekend so we'll see if any of this makes a difference in the real world!

The garden is suffering from my absence but the chickens are up to 4 eggs a day!

good werk!

I'm not in terrible rock climbing shape, but I'm not in as good of shape as I was last year (almost, not quite though). But that's okay, but unlike Mo, a big reason for this is that I started my training for Ice Climbing World Cup over a month ago.

I'll still be slaughtered in the comps by the top end people, but I hope to climb respectably.
are you doing ouray or just Bozeman? If you're there I'd probably go to ouray to cheer you guys on, otherwise id go on a quieter weekend.

Did you see they're going to build a massive ice park near vail?!?

Bozeman, France and Italy.

Nathan will be doing all 6 comps, and Korea always conflicts with Ouray. It would be nice to get back to the ice park this year, but I don't have the vacation time for it.


granite_grrl


Aug 21, 2014, 11:52 AM
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Re: [camhead] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
Speaking of training, I'm still in the power/max recruitment phase of my training. Was able to do some cool stuff at City, but am definitely not at my peak right now. Fortunately, I've been able to get to a gym every other day, and the campusing is really improving quickly!

The local gym near my folks' place in Logan is kind of mediocre; not great porbelms, infested with blond Mormons and their kids, and the campus bored does not even have consistent spacing. But, it still works. Yesterday I was in SLC for a book tawk, and dropped into the new Momentum gym there. That place has the best training set up I've ever seen; an entire second floor with a full weight room, two giant systems walls, six hangboreds including the Moon and Beastmakers 1000 and 2000, and six different sizes of 9 rung campus boreds with Metolius spacing. It was amazing; wish I had something like that in Fayettenam. Managed to finally do the fabled 1-5-9 campus move, although it was on really big holds, so not a big deal.

That sounds rad. The one good thing about a training setup rather than a full gym is that it takes up a lot less space. Of course, it won't turn a profit like a climbing gym does so you need to convince someone to set up a good training system in their basement.


carabiner96


Aug 21, 2014, 12:49 PM
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Re: [granite_grrl] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
Hey Mo, it's tomato season up here, picked up a half bushel of Roma's last weekend for $13. Lovely big guys too.

I've been curious about making ketchup since you talked about it here a while ago, but I'm also thinking it's going to be too much effort if I have to skin them by hand, and WAY too much effort if I need to remove the skins.

How many tomatoes do you use for a batch? I don't go through that much ketchup in a year anyway.
It's definitely worth beg borrowing or stealing either a hand crank food mill (most you can hook up to a drill- MOAR power!) because then you just slice tomatoes in half, toss it in, and sauce comes out one end and seeds and peels the other. Boom.

I want to say I take about 30 pounds and turn it into 8 half pints. It's not a lot because you cook it down even thicker than sauce. But...omg it's delicious. Once you have it you're just like 'Heinz who?'

If you're using the processor you can do the whole thing in a day, otherwise you can always freeze the raw sauce/purťe as you go then unfreeze all at once to process into ketchup. You don't need special gear for the canning outside of one if those blue enamel canners but even if you don't have that you can use a big pot with a towel on the bottom (so water can circulate 360* around the jars).

Once jarred they last 2+ years, so even if you have a shitty afternoon of blanching and seeding by hand- I still think it's worth it if you can get 20 half pints out if it. Keeps well in the fridge too but def not as long as store bought.

Want me to send you a jar to taste test?

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