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lena_chita
Moderator
May 4, 2015, 6:37 PM
Post #104826 of 105309
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
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Ed and I tried this thing called climbing this weekend. I haven't climbed in the past 5 weeks, but The weather was really nice, and I thought I'd test the finger.
Still too early though, my finger is in no way ready for performance of any kind. And I'm going to rest it another long while, because it fucking hurts.
Highlight of the weak-end was sending King Me, first go. I vaguely remember getting on it with drivel once, maybe 6-7 years ago, and we both bailed at the crux. I mean, pathetically bailed, after many tries. Some dude offered to finish the route for us, and we TR-ed it afterwards and flailed even worse on TR. It was so reachy. And so scary. And so runout. And so awkward. And the bolts, OMG, the bolt placement!!!! was awful!!!!!!
It kinda built up in my mind since then, and I was thinking that it would be pretty hard, and I wasn't even sure I would get on it this weekend.
Bwahahahaha!
We walked there, and I thought, well, it really doesn't look so bad, I'll give it an honest try, A2 pulley or no pulley.
So I climbed it. And it was super easy. And I was able to climb carefully and avoid any holds that stressed my wrist or finger. And there were so many holds that it was not a problem. And when I got to the crux and messed up the sequence, I was able to down-climb, and there were feet everywhere, and jugs to rest on, and at no point did I feel that there was a runout, or a bad bolt placement, or an awkward move.
So, basically, someone went up there in the past 6 years and completely changed the route.  Yeah. That must be it.
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granite_grrl
May 4, 2015, 6:48 PM
Post #104827 of 105309
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
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lena_chita wrote: Ed and I tried this thing called climbing this weekend. I haven't climbed in the past 5 weeks, but The weather was really nice, and I thought I'd test the finger. Still too early though, my finger is in no way ready for performance of any kind. And I'm going to rest it another long while, because it fucking hurts. Highlight of the weak-end was sending King Me, first go. I vaguely remember getting on it with drivel once, maybe 6-7 years ago, and we both bailed at the crux. I mean, pathetically bailed, after many tries. Some dude offered to finish the route for us, and we TR-ed it afterwards and flailed even worse on TR. It was so reachy. And so scary. And so runout. And so awkward. And the bolts, OMG, the bolt placement!!!! was awful!!!!!! It kinda built up in my mind since then, and I was thinking that it would be pretty hard, and I wasn't even sure I would get on it this weekend. Bwahahahaha! We walked there, and I thought, well, it really doesn't look so bad, I'll give it an honest try, A2 pulley or no pulley. So I climbed it. And it was super easy. And I was able to climb carefully and avoid any holds that stressed my wrist or finger. And there were so many holds that it was not a problem. And when I got to the crux and messed up the sequence, I was able to down-climb, and there were feet everywhere, and jugs to rest on, and at no point did I feel that there was a runout, or a bad bolt placement, or an awkward move. So, basically, someone went up there in the past 6 years and completely changed the route. Yeah. That must be it.
Was there a distinct crux on King Me? The bottom is steep and I had to kinda blitz through it when I was on it way back when, but I mostly remember getting off the steep stuff and being so pumped I could hardly pull through the slabby stuff at the top.
I also remember wearing shoes that were okay on steep, but REALLY hurt the back of my heel when it got vertical or slabby (probably the other reason I had a hard time when I got near the top). I think most Evolv shoes do this to me, and I should really consider selling these shoes I have.
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lena_chita
Moderator
May 4, 2015, 7:50 PM
Post #104828 of 105309
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
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granite_grrl wrote: lena_chita wrote: Ed and I tried this thing called climbing this weekend. I haven't climbed in the past 5 weeks, but The weather was really nice, and I thought I'd test the finger. Still too early though, my finger is in no way ready for performance of any kind. And I'm going to rest it another long while, because it fucking hurts. Highlight of the weak-end was sending King Me, first go. I vaguely remember getting on it with drivel once, maybe 6-7 years ago, and we both bailed at the crux. I mean, pathetically bailed, after many tries. Some dude offered to finish the route for us, and we TR-ed it afterwards and flailed even worse on TR. It was so reachy. And so scary. And so runout. And so awkward. And the bolts, OMG, the bolt placement!!!! was awful!!!!!! It kinda built up in my mind since then, and I was thinking that it would be pretty hard, and I wasn't even sure I would get on it this weekend. Bwahahahaha! We walked there, and I thought, well, it really doesn't look so bad, I'll give it an honest try, A2 pulley or no pulley. So I climbed it. And it was super easy. And I was able to climb carefully and avoid any holds that stressed my wrist or finger. And there were so many holds that it was not a problem. And when I got to the crux and messed up the sequence, I was able to down-climb, and there were feet everywhere, and jugs to rest on, and at no point did I feel that there was a runout, or a bad bolt placement, or an awkward move. So, basically, someone went up there in the past 6 years and completely changed the route. Yeah. That must be it. Was there a distinct crux on King Me? The bottom is steep and I had to kinda blitz through it when I was on it way back when, but I mostly remember getting off the steep stuff and being so pumped I could hardly pull through the slabby stuff at the top. I also remember wearing shoes that were okay on steep, but REALLY hurt the back of my heel when it got vertical or slabby (probably the other reason I had a hard time when I got near the top). I think most Evolv shoes do this to me, and I should really consider selling these shoes I have.
Yeah, there is a crux. The route starts with a juggy roof, and then there are couple bolts of easy gently overhanging pocket-y climbing, and then you get to the to super-chalked up vertically running flaring crack feature with side-pulley jugs, that goes on for couple bolts. And when that feature ends, just before the route slabs out, there is a little bulge/rooflet. That's where everyone falls, if they are in the redpoint range on this route, but not quite managing to send.
There are some holds underneath that little rooflet that look like they would be good, but they aren't, and there is a shallow undercling, and then some hidden good holds on the left.
The guys who were working on it explained it all to me afterwards, I did it all wrong, I wasn't supposed to clip from the undercling, there was a jug I was supposed to clip from... I dunno... I messed up the sequence, but I didn't know I messed up the sequence, it seemed like there were lots of decent holds. I just clipped from the undercling and matched, and found something else.
I can see how wrong shoes would hurt on this route. I was wearing my testarossas, but they are nicely broken in at this point, so I wasn't even thinking of the shoes. But when I was just breaking them in at Red Rocks over Christmas, climbing in them on vertical rock was unbearable. I actually bought a pair of flat shoes in Red Rocks, just so I could get my poor feet a break... it was much better after a few days.
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snoopy138
May 4, 2015, 9:16 PM
Post #104829 of 105309
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28992
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granite_grrl wrote: I like the Gunks. When we head on our road trip it’s going to be hard to justify spending much time out there though, it’s getting expensive. Weak-end report. I pulled some invasive plants for the local access group, then went climbing for the afternoon with some friends who were there too. All three of the guys are daddys and don’t get out as much as they used to now. Suckers! I went for a run that night too, getting closer to where I used to be with my running now! 6km in just over 33 minutes. That’s a decent pace, but I was working way harder than I should have been to maintain it. Then a bit of mtn biking in the morning on Sunday, and climbing in the afternoon. I had some decent strength on the one hard route I got one, but on my second attempt I failed all over the crux. I think my all day endurance is crap right now, but it’s hard to say when you get to the cliff and your body is already over worked and tired. I’ve got that full body soreness going on right now. Good weakend!
Went to echo on zatyrday; due to the need to get teh Brit back to the airport at night, we went in the morning; java wall was in the shade, but by the time I got to zending Java I was basically unable to actually see any of the holds on the upper third (above the ledge where I had spent a significant amount of time cheating myself). managed to zend anyway.
After a bit of a waiting period, got in a first work run on Meager & Weak on the pink wall. All the moves were doable, figured out some betaz. Will definitely need to put in a bit of work to get that one, it's pretty sustained through the bottom half.
Mostly werked teh werkz on Sunday.
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snoopy138
May 4, 2015, 9:20 PM
Post #104830 of 105309
(4248 views)
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28992
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lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: lena_chita wrote: Ed and I tried this thing called climbing this weekend. I haven't climbed in the past 5 weeks, but The weather was really nice, and I thought I'd test the finger. Still too early though, my finger is in no way ready for performance of any kind. And I'm going to rest it another long while, because it fucking hurts. Highlight of the weak-end was sending King Me, first go. I vaguely remember getting on it with drivel once, maybe 6-7 years ago, and we both bailed at the crux. I mean, pathetically bailed, after many tries. Some dude offered to finish the route for us, and we TR-ed it afterwards and flailed even worse on TR. It was so reachy. And so scary. And so runout. And so awkward. And the bolts, OMG, the bolt placement!!!! was awful!!!!!! It kinda built up in my mind since then, and I was thinking that it would be pretty hard, and I wasn't even sure I would get on it this weekend. Bwahahahaha! We walked there, and I thought, well, it really doesn't look so bad, I'll give it an honest try, A2 pulley or no pulley. So I climbed it. And it was super easy. And I was able to climb carefully and avoid any holds that stressed my wrist or finger. And there were so many holds that it was not a problem. And when I got to the crux and messed up the sequence, I was able to down-climb, and there were feet everywhere, and jugs to rest on, and at no point did I feel that there was a runout, or a bad bolt placement, or an awkward move. So, basically, someone went up there in the past 6 years and completely changed the route. Yeah. That must be it. Was there a distinct crux on King Me? The bottom is steep and I had to kinda blitz through it when I was on it way back when, but I mostly remember getting off the steep stuff and being so pumped I could hardly pull through the slabby stuff at the top. I also remember wearing shoes that were okay on steep, but REALLY hurt the back of my heel when it got vertical or slabby (probably the other reason I had a hard time when I got near the top). I think most Evolv shoes do this to me, and I should really consider selling these shoes I have. Yeah, there is a crux. The route starts with a juggy roof, and then there are couple bolts of easy gently overhanging pocket-y climbing, and then you get to the to super-chalked up vertically running flaring crack feature with side-pulley jugs, that goes on for couple bolts. And when that feature ends, just before the route slabs out, there is a little bulge/rooflet. That's where everyone falls, if they are in the redpoint range on this route, but not quite managing to send. There are some holds underneath that little rooflet that look like they would be good, but they aren't, and there is a shallow undercling, and then some hidden good holds on the left. The guys who were working on it explained it all to me afterwards, I did it all wrong, I wasn't supposed to clip from the undercling, there was a jug I was supposed to clip from... I dunno... I messed up the sequence, but I didn't know I messed up the sequence, it seemed like there were lots of decent holds. I just clipped from the undercling and matched, and found something else. I can see how wrong shoes would hurt on this route. I was wearing my testarossas, but they are nicely broken in at this point, so I wasn't even thinking of the shoes. But when I was just breaking them in at Red Rocks over Christmas, climbing in them on vertical rock was unbearable. I actually bought a pair of flat shoes in Red Rocks, just so I could get my poor feet a break... it was much better after a few days.
Huh ... all I remember from that rowt is that it was fun, just kind of sustained climbing without too much of a distinct curx. Also makes me wuntz to get on Soul Ram again, speaking of sustained rowtz there without especially distinct curxes.
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camhead
May 4, 2015, 11:00 PM
Post #104831 of 105309
(4238 views)
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
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lena_chita wrote: Ed and I tried this thing called climbing this weekend. I haven't climbed in the past 5 weeks, but The weather was really nice, and I thought I'd test the finger. Still too early though, my finger is in no way ready for performance of any kind. And I'm going to rest it another long while, because it fucking hurts. Highlight of the weak-end was sending King Me, first go. I vaguely remember getting on it with drivel once, maybe 6-7 years ago, and we both bailed at the crux. I mean, pathetically bailed, after many tries. Some dude offered to finish the route for us, and we TR-ed it afterwards and flailed even worse on TR. It was so reachy. And so scary. And so runout. And so awkward. And the bolts, OMG, the bolt placement!!!! was awful!!!!!! It kinda built up in my mind since then, and I was thinking that it would be pretty hard, and I wasn't even sure I would get on it this weekend. Bwahahahaha! We walked there, and I thought, well, it really doesn't look so bad, I'll give it an honest try, A2 pulley or no pulley. So I climbed it. And it was super easy. And I was able to climb carefully and avoid any holds that stressed my wrist or finger. And there were so many holds that it was not a problem. And when I got to the crux and messed up the sequence, I was able to down-climb, and there were feet everywhere, and jugs to rest on, and at no point did I feel that there was a runout, or a bad bolt placement, or an awkward move. So, basically, someone went up there in the past 6 years and completely changed the route. Yeah. That must be it.
Naw, King Me wuz always easy.
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camhead
May 4, 2015, 11:08 PM
Post #104833 of 105309
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
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Haven't done a (not)weakend report for a while, shit's been busy. Just falling into the regular spring workdrinkclimb cycle, and it's been awesome. We're getting some different shindigs and events put together for the next few months here that should be fun. Volunteer trail day for the trail out to Bubba Shitty, Rob Pizem slideshow, etc. etc.
Also FINALLY got power to mah cabin, and it's awesome! I'm sitting on the deck in the sunset with a cold IPA, listening to Art Blakey, and it's pretty rad. Need to figure out a way to not leave the NRG.
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camhead
May 4, 2015, 11:08 PM
Post #104834 of 105309
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
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Oh, and Lena! I still have yore kitchen stuff from Vegas! You guys need to come down and get it.
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granite_grrl
May 5, 2015, 1:30 AM
Post #104835 of 105309
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
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camhead wrote: granite_grrl wrote: I also remember wearing shoes that were okay on steep, but REALLY hurt the back of my heel when it got vertical or slabby (probably the other reason I had a hard time when I got near the top). I think most Evolv shoes do this to me, and I should really consider selling these shoes I have. Ever since Jack gave me teh Dragons for knot onflashing teh warmup, they've been my favorite shoe. Great for steeps, great for vertical, they even were pretty gud for the fingercracks on MoonButt.
I have an old pair of Velcro Dragons (back when both the Dragons and the V10s were popular). They fit me pretty gud, but I always forget that I own them. When I do remember I say fuck it, they take too much work to get on (once one, they have the best fitting heel of almost all my shoes though) and I there's no need to wear a down turned shoe for most of the stuff I get on in Ontario.
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tripperjm
May 5, 2015, 1:26 PM
Post #104836 of 105309
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Registered: Jun 7, 2002
Posts: 10650
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camhead wrote: granite_grrl wrote: I also remember wearing shoes that were okay on steep, but REALLY hurt the back of my heel when it got vertical or slabby (probably the other reason I had a hard time when I got near the top). I think most Evolv shoes do this to me, and I should really consider selling these shoes I have. Ever since Jack gave me teh Dragons for knot onflashing teh warmup, they've been my favorite shoe. Great for steeps, great for vertical, they even were pretty gud for the fingercracks on MoonButt.
Well, ewe might knot have onflashed teh warm up....
Butt ewe did cum owt and visit us in teh hole.... During teh only cold wether we had this entire winter
and ewe did try pretty hard....
Ewe desirved teh free shoes, glad to here they are werking owt fer ewe.
Try knot to loose them....
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snoopy138
May 5, 2015, 4:54 PM
Post #104837 of 105309
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28992
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tripperjm wrote: camhead wrote: granite_grrl wrote: I also remember wearing shoes that were okay on steep, but REALLY hurt the back of my heel when it got vertical or slabby (probably the other reason I had a hard time when I got near the top). I think most Evolv shoes do this to me, and I should really consider selling these shoes I have. Ever since Jack gave me teh Dragons for knot onflashing teh warmup, they've been my favorite shoe. Great for steeps, great for vertical, they even were pretty gud for the fingercracks on MoonButt. Well, ewe might knot have onflashed teh warm up.... Butt ewe did cum owt and visit us in teh hole.... During teh only cold wether we had this entire winter and ewe did try pretty hard.... Ewe desirved teh free shoes, glad to here they are werking owt fer ewe. Try knot to loose them....
he tried hard, but the results were in: "not as gud as CI"
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lena_chita
Moderator
May 5, 2015, 8:51 PM
Post #104838 of 105309
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Posts: 6087
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camhead wrote: Oh, and Lena! I still have yore kitchen stuff from Vegas! You guys need to come down and get it.
Shit, I forgot about that! We were just talking about going to teh New, for a change. And I would like to. But it is really frustrating with injuries.
Ed's shoulder has been bothering him more, and I am not even sure when he hurt it, initially. He's been going to PT, but PT is only doing so much... And PT says he has a labral tear, which PT can't fix. Supposed to be a straightforward surgery with good outcome, but... Another surgery? I finally convinced him to make an appointment with an ortho to discuss it, so we'll know soon, I guess, and then we'll have to decide on yes/no, and when.
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caughtinside
May 6, 2015, 3:48 PM
Post #104839 of 105309
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
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snoopy138 wrote: tripperjm wrote: camhead wrote: granite_grrl wrote: I also remember wearing shoes that were okay on steep, but REALLY hurt the back of my heel when it got vertical or slabby (probably the other reason I had a hard time when I got near the top). I think most Evolv shoes do this to me, and I should really consider selling these shoes I have. Ever since Jack gave me teh Dragons for knot onflashing teh warmup, they've been my favorite shoe. Great for steeps, great for vertical, they even were pretty gud for the fingercracks on MoonButt. Well, ewe might knot have onflashed teh warm up.... Butt ewe did cum owt and visit us in teh hole.... During teh only cold wether we had this entire winter and ewe did try pretty hard.... Ewe desirved teh free shoes, glad to here they are werking owt fer ewe. Try knot to loose them.... he tried hard, but the results were in: "not as gud as CI"
Woo! That's me!
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dr_feelgood
May 10, 2015, 11:57 PM
Post #104840 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 26060
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Heading for teh creke manana! I am fat and weke, but excited. I also have one fewer broken rib than last time (current count: 0), so will have to rely on other excuses for why I am pumped and out of breath.
Trashy, let me know your availability. I've got no set schedule, so it may be better to have you dictate timing. It is a five hour drive, but I am willing to consider it.
Mo, if you want to come down, text me with dates, and we can figure it out!
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camhead
May 11, 2015, 11:15 AM
Post #104841 of 105309
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reminds me, this was still at the IC kiosk in late December...
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camhead
May 11, 2015, 11:23 AM
Post #104842 of 105309
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
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Fun but way hot weakend here. I think that I may be plateauing out, or falling off of my peak, as far as fitness goes. Was wrecked for a week after MoonButt, then the humidity and heat in Dubbya Vee skyrocketed, and I've been climbing like schit since then.
We've been going out to S.Nut (the sekrit tradness carg that is like Beauty Mountain, but evil, and with a goatie). Fixing up a few anchors, cleaning some old lines. There are whey more moderates out there than we initially realized, that are really gneiss once they get some luvin.
Also found a cool seam/crack feature, dropped a TR on it, and it is HARD (prob in the 13b range), but totally safe! Crux is protected by a bomber 000 c3, and involves a crazy boulder porbelm crimping the side of the crack. Then more hard tips crack/gayback climbing, but to another hard bouldery move over the last roof. I hope that we call it "Putting the TR in Trad," but Pat will probably send it before I do.
If this heat keeps up, though, Ima just ride bikes and raft for the rest of the summer.
That is awl.
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lena_chita
Moderator
May 11, 2015, 2:46 PM
Post #104843 of 105309
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
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camhead wrote: Fun but way hot weakend here. I think that I may be plateauing out, or falling off of my peak, as far as fitness goes. Was wrecked for a week after MoonButt, then the humidity and heat in Dubbya Vee skyrocketed, and I've been climbing like schit since then. We've been going out to S.Nut (the sekrit tradness carg that is like Beauty Mountain, but evil, and with a goatie). Fixing up a few anchors, cleaning some old lines. There are whey more moderates out there than we initially realized, that are really gneiss once they get some luvin. Also found a cool seam/crack feature, dropped a TR on it, and it is HARD (prob in the 13b range), but totally safe! Crux is protected by a bomber 000 c3, and involves a crazy boulder porbelm crimping the side of the crack. Then more hard tips crack/gayback climbing, but to another hard bouldery move over the last roof. I hope that we call it "Putting the TR in Trad," but Pat will probably send it before I do. If this heat keeps up, though, Ima just ride bikes and raft for the rest of the summer. That is awl.
This weather is crazy! And next weekend doesn't look much cooler than this past one. I want to climb, but with the weather like this, the drive down to the New doesn't seem very appealing.
On the plus side, my veggie garden is now fully planted. And everything is growing crazy-well. Except the peas. I think the peas have decided that they don't like the heat. Which is weird, because last year I planted the fall crop of peas in August, and they did just fine, but it was a different variety, so maybe that's why.
Some tomatoes and tomatillos already have flowers on them, which is really, really crazy. Whoever heard of tomatoes flowering before the cucumbers and squash have even sprouted?
Still need to plant my flower beds. And I am making a new perennial bed out of the weed patch in the back, so that's going to be a lot of digging out roots.
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caughtinside
May 11, 2015, 3:16 PM
Post #104844 of 105309
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Got on a hard root Saturday, made some real progress and linked some hard moves. I thought it might be done till fall, but it's actually cooling off here for the next 10 days or so, might get another crack at it next weekend.
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caughtinside
May 11, 2015, 3:19 PM
Post #104846 of 105309
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Good luck at the creek doc. When Donny and I were there in May it was HOT. Good shade at 4x4.
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lena_chita
Moderator
May 11, 2015, 6:12 PM
Post #104847 of 105309
(3851 views)
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
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I'm in awe of your spraying technique.
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lena_chita
Moderator
May 11, 2015, 7:17 PM
Post #104848 of 105309
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Some companies just haven't figured out how to use computers.
What's the deal with "submit electronic service request form, print out the form, sign it, and fax the signed form"
Seriously? I mean, why aren't you allowing electronic signatures? I'm supposed to fax you the form I had already submitted electronically, with a signature, that is a set of random scribbles? But you wouldn't accept me E-mailing you the form with electronic signature?
WTF?
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cracklover
May 11, 2015, 7:48 PM
Post #104849 of 105309
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
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Sweet looking route! Looks like very complex beta to have to dial in.
Speaking of which, I'm starting to get dialed in to CT style climbing. It's still weird, but I'm picking up bits and pieces. Just sent my first hard (for me) route in the state yesterday. The climbing was not too bad, but took a couple goes to get the gear beta worked out.
Psyched to get on some other ones. Seems that this state really does have some decent crack routes. Pretty happy about that.
GO
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carabiner96
May 11, 2015, 8:01 PM
Post #104850 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 10, 2006
Posts: 12610
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lena_chita wrote: I'm in awe of your spraying technique.
Side note, I need to be grunting moar.
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