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healyje
Nov 19, 2009, 9:38 AM
Post #126 of 181
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nikmit wrote: OK, not being able to use it as a backup rappel device which lets you control your rap speed  As I said it's my fault probably and I couldn't make it work for me, so I'm back to prussik.
If you rig it the way I describe above minus any load then you are essentially rapping with the Shunt as a backup. The part that trips everyone up conceptually is the arrangement and operation of the two devices - the actual rappel device and the Shunt. The difference being you operate the Shunt and ignore the rappeling device as opposed to the reverse which is what most people think of when they think of this application.
(This post was edited by healyje on Nov 19, 2009, 11:32 AM)
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nikmit
Nov 19, 2009, 11:28 AM
Post #127 of 181
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healyje wrote: nikmit wrote: OK, not being able to use it as a backup rappel device which lets you control your rap speed As I said it's my fault probably and I couldn't make it work for me, so I'm back to prussik. If you rig it the way I describe above minus any load then you are essentially rapping with the Shunt as a backup. The part that trips everyone up conceptually is the arrangement and operation of the two devices - the actual rappel device and the Shunt. The difference being you operate the Shunt and ignore the rappelling device as opposed to the reverse which is what most people think of when they think of this application.
I rig exactly the way you describe it.
I suppose here is where personality comes in. It's like everything in climbing- one loves some gear because it works for him as a dream, someone hates the same stuff- just look the tircam discussions for example.
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healyje
Nov 19, 2009, 11:32 AM
Post #128 of 181
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nikmit wrote: I rig exactly the way you describe it.
Has to be something else different then because it's never been anything but effortless and smooth as silk. What are you rappeling with and where are your hands in the process?
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nikmit
Nov 19, 2009, 12:19 PM
Post #129 of 181
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healyje wrote: nikmit wrote: I rig exactly the way you describe it. Has to be something else different then because it's never been anything but effortless and smooth as silk. What are you rappeling with and where are your hands in the process?
My belay device is ATC Guide. One hand is on the Shunt, controlling the speed and the other holding the rope. Nothing unusual the way I see it. The Shunt is on the belay loop, the belay deice is 60 cm. above it.
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sungam
Nov 19, 2009, 12:43 PM
Post #130 of 181
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nikmit wrote: healyje wrote: nikmit wrote: I rig exactly the way you describe it. Has to be something else different then because it's never been anything but effortless and smooth as silk. What are you rappeling with and where are your hands in the process? My belay device is ATC Guide. One hand is on the Shunt, controlling the speed and the other holding the rope. Nothing unusual the way I see it. The Shunt is on the belay loop, the belay deice is 60 cm. above it.
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nikmit
Nov 19, 2009, 12:53 PM
Post #131 of 181
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sungam wrote: nikmit wrote: healyje wrote: nikmit wrote: I rig exactly the way you describe it. Has to be something else different then because it's never been anything but effortless and smooth as silk. What are you rappeling with and where are your hands in the process? My belay device is ATC Guide. One hand is on the Shunt, controlling the speed and the other holding the rope. Nothing unusual the way I see it. The Shunt is on the belay loop, the belay deice is 60 cm. above it. I've never used it with one of those extra grippy plates, maybe you're getting too much friction from it? Try with a lower friction plate.
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Myxomatosis
Nov 19, 2009, 3:01 PM
Post #132 of 181
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I rig mine like the guy above described also with my ATCX in low friction mode (won't move at all in claw friction mode)
Still... I have ascended more ropes with it than used it going down.
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healyje
Nov 19, 2009, 4:43 PM
Post #133 of 181
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Hmm, I suspect Sungam is probably onto it relative to too much friction. I've never used an ATC Guide so can't say on that. Have only used it with an old Reverso and with a Figure-8 descender. But by and large I only use it for working with loads and use a sling and biner off my leg loop for backup of normal climbing rappels.
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nikmit
Nov 20, 2009, 8:25 AM
Post #134 of 181
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Most of the guys I know use the Shunt to work with it, or since they are cavers and cave rescuers- for caving. I’ve also used it for caving and with 10+mm static rope and Petzl’s Simple Descender on top of it, the rappels are super smooth.
So I decided to buy me one, and imagine my unpleasant surprise when I used it with skinny dynamic rope and an ATC- it sucked. As I said in my first post this is something that didn’t work for me, this don’t mean that it don’t work for everybody else.
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healyje
Nov 20, 2009, 9:02 AM
Post #135 of 181
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Curious then, what diameter rope was it? I would have thought rope diameter wouldn't particularly matter.
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nikmit
Nov 20, 2009, 12:50 PM
Post #136 of 181
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I've rappelled with 8.5mm Beal Cobra and 9.5 Mammut Infinity.
Try out the Shunt next time you rappelling instead of the prussik- I'm curious what will happen.
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ConverseClimber
Nov 20, 2009, 2:06 PM
Post #137 of 181
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Evolv defys. i got these after wearing out my ansazi V1's and i almosst literally shredded them within a week. i got my money back and went with the anasazi V2. im gonna stick with anasazis from now on
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csproul
Nov 20, 2009, 3:29 PM
Post #138 of 181
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ConverseClimber wrote: Evolv defys. i got these after wearing out my ansazi V1's and i almosst literally shredded them within a week. i got my money back and went with the anasazi V2. im gonna stick with anasazis from now on
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currupt4130
Nov 24, 2009, 4:06 AM
Post #139 of 181
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I take back my tri cam hating statements after using more of them than nuts on a route this weekend. Taped up the slings on them to make them stiffer and bam, placements were a breeze.
I still hate hexes.
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coolcat83
Nov 24, 2009, 4:23 AM
Post #140 of 181
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currupt4130 wrote: I take back my tri cam hating statements after using more of them than nuts on a route this weekend. Taped up the slings on them to make them stiffer and bam, placements were a breeze. I still hate hexes.
that's it...come over to the dark side...and those hexes wait till you get a crack that needs several large placements...those hex's will come out (if you like to save money or weight)...then you will be a convert.
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adatesman
Nov 24, 2009, 4:26 AM
Post #141 of 181
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kylekienitz
Nov 24, 2009, 4:56 AM
Post #142 of 181
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dr_feelgood wrote: Pink, Red and Brown. The three colors of buttsecks.
my mind. God help me.
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acorneau
Nov 24, 2009, 3:42 PM
Post #143 of 181
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adatesman wrote: coolcat83 wrote: currupt4130 wrote: I take back my tri cam hating statements after using more of them than nuts on a route this weekend. Taped up the slings on them to make them stiffer and bam, placements were a breeze. I still hate hexes. that's it...come over to the dark side...and those hexes wait till you get a crack that needs several large placements...those hex's will come out (if you like to save money or weight)...then you will be a convert. Until you shelve the hexes in favor of the #5, #6 and #7 Tricam, at which point you will have truly seen the light.... 
+1 Hell yeah!
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sp00ki
Nov 24, 2009, 4:35 PM
Post #144 of 181
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ConverseClimber wrote: Evolv defys. i got these after wearing out my ansazi V1's and i almosst literally shredded them within a week. i got my money back and went with the anasazi V2. im gonna stick with anasazis from now on
Yes. Sloppy footwork is my least favorite gear too.
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petsfed
Nov 24, 2009, 8:34 PM
Post #145 of 181
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adatesman wrote: coolcat83 wrote: currupt4130 wrote: I take back my tri cam hating statements after using more of them than nuts on a route this weekend. Taped up the slings on them to make them stiffer and bam, placements were a breeze. I still hate hexes. that's it...come over to the dark side...and those hexes wait till you get a crack that needs several large placements...those hex's will come out (if you like to save money or weight)...then you will be a convert. Until you shelve the hexes in favor of the #5, #6 and #7 Tricam, at which point you will have truly seen the light....
But then you'll watch those sizes get walked out of placements that you could sling a cam half as long and still be stable with, and return to cams in those sizes.
Seriously, the #7 tricam is fucking useless if you ever plan to climb above it. EVER.
I know, set it with a tug. Then hope to hell that you don't have to put your foot in the offwidth crack you just placed it in, so you don't risk kicking it. FUCKING BRILLIANT!
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Skidemon27
Nov 24, 2009, 8:51 PM
Post #146 of 181
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suprasoup wrote: possum2082 wrote: suprasoup wrote: Brain buckets may be fine for climbers and cyclist, but they be next to useless for the track. disagree 100%. motorcycle helmets are not just for determining closed or open casket funerals. doesn't matter if it's track or not. show me stats to prove otherwise. your staged far away visionary look pic is cracking me up. unbelievable. good bike, though. i used to have a 97 yzf100r. precursor to the 98 r1. one of the best handling bikes i've ever ridden. I'm always good for a few laughs  . But seriously, you misinterpreted what I said. I didn't spend over 8 benjamins on a helmet if I thought they were useless. 1/2 helmets and 3/4's are what I'm disparaging. Those in my opinion are useless for the serious rider. There isn't a track in the country that would let you set foot on their course with nothing less than full leathers and a full face helmet.
dude decent bike, im a MV agusta F4 and GSXR1000 man myself... but if u seriously bought that decent helmet for 800 bucks then you got ripped off my friend. that helemt only retails for around 450 bucks... i know for a fact i used to sell em, got a few RF1000 shoeis myself diablo graphics for around 340 (dealer cost)
and 100% agree with the full helmet idea.....
and ur picture..... cmon on man dont try to hard to be a bad ass
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adatesman
Nov 24, 2009, 9:06 PM
Post #147 of 181
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jakedatc
Nov 24, 2009, 9:21 PM
Post #148 of 181
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The set of Tech friends i got before leading enough to know what i preferred.. Anyone want 1.25,1.75,2, 2.5,3 tech friends for your creek rack? PM me :)
also ball and twist lock locker's are stupid and i will never use them
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Adk
Nov 24, 2009, 9:56 PM
Post #149 of 181
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Remington model 700. Junk it is.
Opps.... Wrong forum!
My Metolius hexes I use the least and so I have to give them a vote.
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