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rhythm164


Nov 28, 2009, 4:35 PM
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Re: [marc801] How to Survive a Free Solo [In reply to]
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marc801 wrote:
sungam wrote:
rhythm164 wrote:
what an asshole
I don't get this - why is he an asshole?
I understand the comments concerning foolishnesss and stupidity, but saying he's an asshole doesn't make sense.
Listen to the shit stream flowing out of his mouth.

winner winner chicken dinner. the dude obviously thought he was the shit, and it was pretty clear he was doing it for the benefit of the camera and to wow the folks down on the ground. so not only does he put himself in harms way, he puts it on everybody there to bail him out if things go south. hence asshole.


CrazyPetie


Nov 28, 2009, 4:40 PM
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Re: [sungam] How to Survive a Free Solo [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
rhythm164 wrote:
what an asshole
I don't get this - why is he an asshole?
I understand the comments concerning foolishnesss and stupidity, but saying he's an asshole doesn't make sense.

It seems to me it was the classic sitting around with friends talking and climbing and suddenly, for a number of reasons, soloing the route seems like a good idea, so he hops on. he didn't pull the rope probably because people were going to do the route after him, but maybe he also wanted to be able to grab it if he got sketched.

Either way, I'm glad he was okay both for his sake and the sake of the beginners present. Seeing something like that turn out badly can fuck with you for years...

Pete, mind clearing up why the rope was there and how he decided to solo it? Was it because of the cameras (who hasn't ever fallen prey to being a little extra showey to the lens?) or just because he wanted to or whatever? did he decide to keep the rope there or did he just not bother to pull it?

Thank you magnus..

My friends asked me to borrow my cameras for a day, Mike said he was going to try this 5.12 project of his until he did it. Then i guess he was just feeling good, he lead the 5.9 climb to set-up the rope for the other beginners there for the um-teenth time, and said, "hey i've never fallen on this climb, i might as well solo it!" The crux move on that climb is a little sandbagged, i've been on 10's that feel easier. And its a friction move, you have a shitty 2-finger pocket with your left hand, then you get your right foot way up on a really slopy bump and you have to stand up on it slowly, it feel like its going to pop off.

I think there deffinately was too much of his Ego in play, he says he was just feeling a little too confident and didn't respect the climb as much as he should. Mike and I dont have cameras or spectators 99% of the time we're scrabling or soloing or doing something "stupid". This was a rare ocasion that i think taught him a valuable lesson without too much penalty.

When they first showed me the raw video i didn't even know he fell, no one told me he even soloed that day. So i'm watching it, and i start bitching like, "Man why didn't you take down the rope and take your harness off and stuff, i dont even want to show this to anyone now." They just said keep watching. Then i was like, "Oh Shit!" I tried to keep the surprize factor in the name of the clip, i didn't want to give it away.


sungam


Nov 28, 2009, 4:40 PM
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Re: [rhythm164] How to Survive a Free Solo [In reply to]
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rhythm164 wrote:
marc801 wrote:
sungam wrote:
rhythm164 wrote:
what an asshole
I don't get this - why is he an asshole?
I understand the comments concerning foolishnesss and stupidity, but saying he's an asshole doesn't make sense.
Listen to the shit stream flowing out of his mouth.

winner winner chicken dinner. the dude obviously thought he was the shit, and it was pretty clear he was doing it for the benefit of the camera and to wow the folks down on the ground. so not only does he put himself in harms way, he puts it on everybody there to bail him out if things go south. hence asshole.
Hmmm, I guess I see your point. I guess it's just not the first insult or comment that comes to mind when I see the footage.

BTW, for anyone who cares... My flatmate was in a bad mood this morning. I showed this to him and he was kinda inpatient with the whole thing, but when the dude deck... he LAUGHED HIS ASS OFF. He's been bright and keen for the rest of the day. Thanks mr decker dude!


(This post was edited by sungam on Nov 29, 2009, 7:59 PM)


Partner camhead


Nov 28, 2009, 4:50 PM
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Re: [sungam] How to Survive a Free Solo [In reply to]
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I have long stated that people who wear socks with climbing shoes are either complete oldskool badasses, or complete gumbies. There is no middle ground in this.

And the guy in the video was NOT an oldschool badass.


zakadamsgt


Nov 28, 2009, 4:52 PM
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Re: [notapplicable] How to Survive a Free Solo [In reply to]
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agreed - watch his footwork....he is stomping all over the holds

gUmBy


CrazyPetie


Nov 28, 2009, 4:57 PM
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Re: [zakadamsgt] How to Survive a Free Solo [In reply to]
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zakadamsgt wrote:
agreed - watch his footwork....he is stomping all over the holds

gUmBy

He climbs harder then you buddy.. Just saying.


sungam


Nov 28, 2009, 4:59 PM
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Re: [CrazyPetie] How to Survive a Free Solo [In reply to]
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CrazyPetie wrote:
sungam wrote:
rhythm164 wrote:
what an asshole
I don't get this - why is he an asshole?
I understand the comments concerning foolishnesss and stupidity, but saying he's an asshole doesn't make sense.

It seems to me it was the classic sitting around with friends talking and climbing and suddenly, for a number of reasons, soloing the route seems like a good idea, so he hops on. he didn't pull the rope probably because people were going to do the route after him, but maybe he also wanted to be able to grab it if he got sketched.

Either way, I'm glad he was okay both for his sake and the sake of the beginners present. Seeing something like that turn out badly can fuck with you for years...

Pete, mind clearing up why the rope was there and how he decided to solo it? Was it because of the cameras (who hasn't ever fallen prey to being a little extra showey to the lens?) or just because he wanted to or whatever? did he decide to keep the rope there or did he just not bother to pull it?

Thank you magnus..

My friends asked me to borrow my cameras for a day, Mike said he was going to try this 5.12 project of his until he did it. Then i guess he was just feeling good, he lead the 5.9 climb to set-up the rope for the other beginners there for the um-teenth time, and said, "hey i've never fallen on this climb, i might as well solo it!" The crux move on that climb is a little sandbagged, i've been on 10's that feel easier. And its a friction move, you have a shitty 2-finger pocket with your left hand, then you get your right foot way up on a really slopy bump and you have to stand up on it slowly, it feel like its going to pop off.

I think there deffinately was too much of his Ego in play, he says he was just feeling a little too confident and didn't respect the climb as much as he should. Mike and I dont have cameras or spectators 99% of the time we're scrabling or soloing or doing something "stupid". This was a rare ocasion that i think taught him a valuable lesson without too much penalty.

When they first showed me the raw video i didn't even know he fell, no one told me he even soloed that day. So i'm watching it, and i start bitching like, "Man why didn't you take down the rope and take your harness off and stuff, i dont even want to show this to anyone now." They just said keep watching. Then i was like, "Oh Shit!" I tried to keep the surprize factor in the name of the clip, i didn't want to give it away.
Heh, I definitely got a shock.
Thanks for your views. I definitely figured he was being a bit showy. Generally movement is much slower/controlled when the rope is not there.

Although another thing to think about... did the presence of the rope make him extra cocky?


zakadamsgt


Nov 28, 2009, 5:07 PM
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Re: [CrazyPetie] How to Survive a Free Solo [In reply to]
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CrazyPetie wrote:
zakadamsgt wrote:
agreed - watch his footwork....he is stomping all over the holds

gUmBy

He climbs harder then you buddy.. Just saying.

Interesting comment - he may be stronger than me. There are plenty of gumbies/spraylords/noobs/rock jocks/dickheads/etc that are stronger than me. I'm not the one that posted a video of my climbing and can't take criticism. I'm just saying...

This guy is ego tripping. Hes talking to the camera like he is Chris Sharma or something. This dude has seen too many climbing videos. I agree with an earlier post that foolish people can endanger and become a burden on OTHER people at the crag...


wanderlustmd


Nov 28, 2009, 5:08 PM
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Re: [CrazyPetie] How to Survive a Free Solo [In reply to]
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CrazyPetie wrote:
zakadamsgt wrote:
agreed - watch his footwork....he is stomping all over the holds

gUmBy

He climbs harder then you buddy.. Just saying.
Yeah, and look where it got him.

We all do dumb things, no doubt about it. Climbers are also hypersensitive to people doing "dumb things" for obvious reasons. It doesn't take much to set the gumby alarm off, so to speak.

At any rate, glad to see he walked away. He's pretty lucky, to say the least.


CrazyPetie


Nov 28, 2009, 5:08 PM
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Re: [sungam] How to Survive a Free Solo [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
Heh, I definitely got a shock.
Thanks for your views. I definitely figured he was being a bit showy. Generally movement is much slower/controlled when the rope is not there.

Although another thing to think about... did the presence of the rope make him extra cocky?

I think so personally. I haven't had the chance to really talk to him about it, he was still kinda in shock a few days ago. But the rope being there, maybe he thought it as a way out if things went bad, subconciously. In soloing its probably better to just think falling = death. Deffinately not Mike at his best. haha But i had to put it out there, hows many good decking videos have you seen?


sungam


Nov 28, 2009, 5:10 PM
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Re: [CrazyPetie] How to Survive a Free Solo [In reply to]
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CrazyPetie wrote:
sungam wrote:
Heh, I definitely got a shock.
Thanks for your views. I definitely figured he was being a bit showy. Generally movement is much slower/controlled when the rope is not there.

Although another thing to think about... did the presence of the rope make him extra cocky?

I think so personally. I haven't had the chance to really talk to him about it, he was still kinda in shock a few days ago. But the rope being there, maybe he thought it as a way out if things went bad, subconciously. In soloing its probably better to just think falling = death. Deffinately not Mike at his best. haha But i had to put it out there, hows many good decking videos have you seen?
I can think of... 4.
Allan Cassidy coming off of "yes, yes!" at Creag Dubh, someone falling off of Meshugga, The dude missing the pads when trying to solo Supernova at Rumney, and this one. All are equally gut wrenching.


I_do


Nov 28, 2009, 5:20 PM
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Re: [zakadamsgt] How to Survive a Free Solo [In reply to]
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zakadamsgt wrote:
CrazyPetie wrote:
zakadamsgt wrote:
agreed - watch his footwork....he is stomping all over the holds

gUmBy

He climbs harder then you buddy.. Just saying.

Interesting comment - he may be stronger than me. There are plenty of gumbies/spraylords/noobs/rock jocks/dickheads/etc that are stronger than me. I'm not the one that posted a video of my climbing and can't take criticism. I'm just saying...

This guy is ego tripping. Hes talking to the camera like he is Chris Sharma or something. This dude has seen too many climbing videos. I agree with an earlier post that foolish people can endanger and become a burden on OTHER people at the crag...

You know what? He deserves the shit he's getting, he made a series of bad decisions. But at the end of the day he got off easy and he's probably learned a thing or two, seems like perfectly normal behaviour from a guy his age. Let him who is without sin cast the first stone.

Now point and laugh at the bumbly!


curt


Nov 28, 2009, 5:56 PM
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Re: [marc801] How to Survive a Free Solo [In reply to]
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marc801 wrote:
CrazyPetie wrote:
Stupid? maybe. But how many times does someone fall soloing and live to tell about it? let alone not even get hurt. Lets not forget all the Soloists out there that we all idiolized who lost their lives because of it. Derek Hersey fell on a 5.8, while he soloed half a dozen .11's every day. Would you call Alex Honnold stupid? If you would, then you just dont get it.
No, you just don't get it. No one is calling Hersey (who fell off a 9+, not an 8 btw) or Honnold stupid. We're just calling this idiot in the video stupid...

This is correct.

Curt


agdavis


Nov 28, 2009, 6:06 PM
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CrazyPetie wrote:
http://www.vimeo.com/7858740

Check it out, tell me what you think!

Or if you prefer youtube - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vwg8peo9hok

your friend is a fucking moron. end of story.


iknowfear


Nov 28, 2009, 6:33 PM
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CrazyPetie wrote:
http://www.vimeo.com/7858740

Check it out, tell me what you think!

Or if you prefer youtube - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vwg8peo9hok

that is the worst climbing style of a "soloist" that I've seen...


crazy_fingers84


Nov 28, 2009, 6:54 PM
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i am baffled by that guys arrogance. his injuries could have... should have been worse.

it is good that you got this on tape. hopefully this experience has humbled him.

as far as the video goes, it was put together well. thanks for sharing.


CrazyPetie


Nov 28, 2009, 7:08 PM
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Re: [crazy_fingers84] How to Survive a Free Solo [In reply to]
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crazy_fingers84 wrote:
as far as the video goes, it was put together well. thanks for sharing.

haha thank you! All this negativity was making me doubt my editing skills.


sungam


Nov 28, 2009, 8:26 PM
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CrazyPetie wrote:
crazy_fingers84 wrote:
as far as the video goes, it was put together well. thanks for sharing.

haha thank you! All this negativity was making me doubt my editing skills.
A fair point. Yore editing abilities are far greater then your friend's ability to not crater.


coastal_climber


Nov 28, 2009, 9:06 PM
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sungam wrote:
CrazyPetie wrote:
crazy_fingers84 wrote:
as far as the video goes, it was put together well. thanks for sharing.

haha thank you! All this negativity was making me doubt my editing skills.
A fair point. Yore editing abilities are far greater then your friend's ability to not crater.

Correct


sbaclimber


Nov 28, 2009, 10:29 PM
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Re: [camhead] How to Survive a Free Solo [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
I have long stated that people who wear socks with climbing shoes are either complete oldskool badasses, or complete gumbies. There is no middle ground in this.

And the guy in the video was NOT an oldschool badass.
Not disagreeing with you there....but what do you consider someone who never wore socks in any of his climbing shoes for the first 14 years of climbing, but now always wears socks in at least one pair of his shoes....?
It's a riddle, but I'll give you a tip.....I am also not an oldschool badass Wink


(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Nov 28, 2009, 10:29 PM)


crazy_fingers84


Nov 28, 2009, 10:30 PM
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I think that your title is misleading... I would argue that your video demonstrates how not to survive a free solo.


Partner camhead


Nov 28, 2009, 10:39 PM
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sbaclimber wrote:
camhead wrote:
I have long stated that people who wear socks with climbing shoes are either complete oldskool badasses, or complete gumbies. There is no middle ground in this.

And the guy in the video was NOT an oldschool badass.
Not disagreeing with you there....but what do you consider someone who never wore socks in any of his climbing shoes for the first 14 years of climbing, but now always wears socks in at least one pair of his shoes....?
It's a riddle, but I'll give you a tip.....I am also not an oldschool badass Wink

quite a conundrum, but I'll throw another one back at you-- despite nitpicky proclaimers of anecdotal trivia, why does my original statement ring so true? I'm sticking with it, sorry.


sbaclimber


Nov 28, 2009, 10:58 PM
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camhead wrote:
why does my original statement ring so true?
Because 99% of the time, it is true.
I am simply proposing that the other 1% might be the middle ground that you claim doesn't exist.
.....or I am a complete gumbySmile


full1346


Nov 29, 2009, 12:10 AM
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CrazyPetie wrote:
zakadamsgt wrote:
agreed - watch his footwork....he is stomping all over the holds

gUmBy

He climbs harder then you buddy.. Just saying.
In reply to:
doesnt look like it. your egotistical pal was really looking for a hurting. and by the way... whos the dude filming, talking about the intensity in his eyes and crap?


spikeddem


Nov 29, 2009, 12:23 AM
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sbaclimber wrote:
camhead wrote:
I have long stated that people who wear socks with climbing shoes are either complete oldskool badasses, or complete gumbies. There is no middle ground in this.

And the guy in the video was NOT an oldschool badass.
Not disagreeing with you there....but what do you consider someone who never wore socks in any of his climbing shoes for the first 14 years of climbing, but now always wears socks in at least one pair of his shoes....?
It's a riddle, but I'll give you a tip.....I am also not an oldschool badass Wink
]

Someone that owns a pair of Evolv's?

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