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currupt4130
Dec 15, 2009, 2:58 AM
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I had to use it today. It scared the hell out of me the whole way down while I was cleaning my gear but it worked like a champ.
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coolcat83
Dec 15, 2009, 3:04 AM
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currupt4130 wrote: I had to use it today. It scared the hell out of me the whole way down while I was cleaning my gear but it worked like a champ.
You had to use it? because you didn't want to leave gear? or because you were held at gunpoint and the only way to survive was to not leave any gear?
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currupt4130
Dec 15, 2009, 3:08 AM
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Because I didn't want to leave gear. So in order to not leave gear I utilized this nifty little tool.
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rock_fencer
Dec 15, 2009, 3:15 AM
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curious multi or single pitch, no access to top? im curious what the circumstance was
cheers
T
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coolcat83
Dec 15, 2009, 3:22 AM
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fair enough, if you've got the nads use em
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currupt4130
Dec 15, 2009, 3:30 AM
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It was single pitch. Access to the top was incredibly sketchy and wet. Down climbing would have been dangerous to get my gear back. There were no anchors on this route and we didn't know that before hand.
We tried to sling a horn and flip it off after I was on the ground. Tried for 20 minutes with no success. So I lead it back up. Went in direct to a couple pieces, rigged it up, weighted it, bounced on it, and rapped down.
We could have tried to do the texas rope trick with the sling around the horn but I was sick of getting shit stuck and I tested the setup on the ground first.
It worked and I'm alive but I know that's going to be a desperate situation trick from now on.
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Rudmin
Dec 15, 2009, 5:48 AM
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currupt4130 wrote: It was single pitch. Access to the top was incredibly sketchy and wet. Down climbing would have been dangerous to get my gear back. There were no anchors on this route and we didn't know that before hand. We tried to sling a horn and flip it off after I was on the ground. Tried for 20 minutes with no success. So I lead it back up. Went in direct to a couple pieces, rigged it up, weighted it, bounced on it, and rapped down. We could have tried to do the texas rope trick with the sling around the horn but I was sick of getting shit stuck and I tested the setup on the ground first. It worked and I'm alive but I know that's going to be a desperate situation trick from now on.
Are your slings really expensive or something?
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shiro16
Dec 15, 2009, 6:03 AM
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coolcat83 wrote: currupt4130 wrote: I had to use it today. It scared the hell out of me the whole way down while I was cleaning my gear but it worked like a champ. You had to use it? because you didn't want to leave gear? or because you were held at gunpoint and the only way to survive was to not leave any gear?
It amuses me that sometimes people feel "held at gunpoint" or "only way to survive" = "had to".
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moose_droppings
Dec 15, 2009, 6:38 AM
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Went in direct to a couple of pieces??
Pieces of pro? How'd you get your pro back?
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currupt4130
Dec 15, 2009, 2:30 PM
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moose_droppings wrote: Went in direct to a couple of pieces?? Pieces of pro? How'd you get your pro back?
That's where the rope trick came in...
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qtm
Dec 15, 2009, 2:45 PM
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How many pieces did you have in the anchor that you pulled? If more than one piece, did you pull an equalized sling or something like that?
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currupt4130
Dec 15, 2009, 3:04 PM
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I had one bomber #2.
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abe_ascends
Dec 15, 2009, 3:51 PM
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Soooo, you are trying to become a statistic then? Good decision-making skills. 
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jcrew
Dec 15, 2009, 4:00 PM
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currupt4130 wrote: I had one bomber #2.
funny how people freak about the idea of rapping off 1 piece of gear, yet they will routinely clip to only 1 bolt with 1 sling on sport routes and go off belay. i trustone bomber #11 hex more than some random bolt.
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moose_droppings
Dec 15, 2009, 4:39 PM
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I guess I misunderstood you and thought you had tied into two pieces with the rope end to retrieve them. Didn't see how that would work.
I wasn't there so......
If you had a horn that was large enough to have trouble getting a sling off of it 60ft away, couldn't you have just put the middle of your rope over it and rapped?
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dingus
Dec 15, 2009, 4:41 PM
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jcrew wrote: funny how people freak about the idea of rapping off 1 piece of gear, yet they will routinely clip to only 1 bolt with 1 sling on sport routes and go off belay. i trustone bomber #11 hex more than some random bolt.
While 'freak out' is too strong a term I don't like hanging off a single bolt OR a single cam between me and my maker.
Yes in the course of a climbing career I have 'had' to do both, more than once.
Never did the T Rope Trick though!
DMT
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currupt4130
Dec 15, 2009, 5:08 PM
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moose_droppings wrote: I guess I misunderstood you and thought you had tied into two pieces with the rope end to retrieve them. Didn't see how that would work. I wasn't there so...... If you had a horn that was large enough to have trouble getting a sling off of it 60ft away, couldn't you have just put the middle of your rope over it and rapped?
The horn was big enough on the edges to take a dynema sling around it, and I was scared rapping off it as it was. I don't think a rope would have held around the edges of this particular horn.
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karmiclimber
Dec 15, 2009, 5:12 PM
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Awww. Welcome to man hood. *Hands you some brass ballz* ;)
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rightarmbad
Dec 15, 2009, 5:35 PM
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So why not just leave a sling girth hitched to the horn?
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justroberto
Dec 15, 2009, 7:43 PM
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Please tell me you did this at the New or Bozoo.
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healyje
Dec 15, 2009, 7:47 PM
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There are lots of 'rope tricks', nothing new here. In the wrong hands, this one is 'Texas' in the same way roulette is sometimes 'Russian'.
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currupt4130
Dec 15, 2009, 7:59 PM
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justroberto wrote: Please tell me you did this at the New or Bozoo.
It was out at Pirates Cove. You got me.
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justroberto
Dec 15, 2009, 8:19 PM
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currupt4130 wrote: justroberto wrote: Please tell me you did this at the New or Bozoo. It was out at Pirates Cove. You got me.
Was there no way to top out (even aiding) and rap off a tree? I can imagine that topping out in the mud and ferns would be a little sketchy, but even more so than rapping off a cam with your rope tied to the trigger?
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j_ung
Dec 15, 2009, 8:51 PM
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Boo-yah! The TTRT works! I might've used the unpatented j_ung-two-piece variation, though. Just sayin'. 
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malcolm777b
Dec 15, 2009, 9:02 PM
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currupt4130 wrote: moose_droppings wrote: I guess I misunderstood you and thought you had tied into two pieces with the rope end to retrieve them. Didn't see how that would work. I wasn't there so...... If you had a horn that was large enough to have trouble getting a sling off of it 60ft away, couldn't you have just put the middle of your rope over it and rapped? The horn was big enough on the edges to take a dynema sling around it, and I was scared rapping off it as it was. I don't think a rope would have held around the edges of this particular horn.
If the horn was bomber to rap off, you could have done a horn version of the Texas Rope Trick. You could wrap the sling such that there are two open ends at the bottom of the sling, then thread the rap to the 1/3 point as in the Texas Rope trick. Then take the other end (the one you're not rapping on) and tie it to one of the open ends of the sling. Rap, pull the rope through, then pull on the tied off end, and with luck (that the sling doesn't hang up on the horn), you get your sling back.
I don't see any reason you would do this though. Any trad climber that goes up a route without knowledge of an established rap station, reasonable walkoff, or other way down and doesn't have bail webbing or equivalent is making a big error IMO.
Edit: I guess you COULD use it as a bold statement of the Leave No Trace ethic....
(This post was edited by malcolm777b on Dec 15, 2009, 9:04 PM)
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Rudmin
Dec 15, 2009, 11:31 PM
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justroberto wrote: j_ung wrote: Boo-yah! The TTRT works! I might've used the unpatented j_ung-two-piece variation, though. Just sayin'. [image]http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/9447/ttrtzy5.jpg[/image] Now, that's wacky. You could even tie one rope end to the master point and the other end to the triggers, allowing you to rap 1/2 the length of the rope instead of 1/3. Of course, you're going to lose a shitload of gear if it doesn't release, and down-aiding would likely be less of a shady clusterfuck, but hey! it'll be thrilling nonetheless.
Why not make it a full rope length fifi hook rappel?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b8Ute5c2BVk
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currupt4130
Dec 15, 2009, 11:45 PM
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malcolm777b wrote: I don't see any reason you would do this though. Any trad climber that goes up a route without knowledge of an established rap station, reasonable walkoff, or other way down and doesn't have bail webbing or equivalent is making a big error IMO.
The crag we were climbing at is a well traveled sport area. The section we were at is only climbable when the water in the lake is down at least 40 feet and is a bit away from the rest of the crag. There are established routes in the area and they are in the guide book as such. With the area being so popular we just figured there would be anchors and didn't bother to take webbing. I actually took my webbing out of my pack because I figured "Hey, it's summersville, everything is bolted here. Why wouldn't there be anchors?"
Well the section we were at had no anchors.
(This post was edited by currupt4130 on Dec 15, 2009, 11:48 PM)
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currupt4130
Dec 15, 2009, 11:47 PM
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justroberto wrote: j_ung wrote: Boo-yah! The TTRT works! I might've used the unpatented j_ung-two-piece variation, though. Just sayin'. [image]http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/9447/ttrtzy5.jpg[/image] Now, that's wacky. You could even tie one rope end to the master point and the other end to the triggers, allowing you to rap 1/2 the length of the rope instead of 1/3. Of course, you're going to lose a shitload of gear if it doesn't release, and down-aiding would likely be less of a shady clusterfuck, but hey! it'll be thrilling nonetheless.
Shit, you don't even need to use that setup to do a double rope come to think of it. Just tie one end to the cam and the other to the triggers. Of course, two cams is better than one.
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