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dugl33
Jan 19, 2010, 8:41 PM
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Kevthecoffeeguy wrote: dugl33 wrote: Kevthecoffeeguy wrote: petsfed wrote: billl7 wrote: yes, 1 kN = 100 kg Close, but not quite. 1 kN = 1000 N = 1000*1kg*1m/s/s Or, 1 kN is the same as 1000 Newtons, which is the same as 1000 times the force necessary to accelerate a mass of 1kg at a rate of 1 m/s/s The force of gravity on 100kg is approximately 1kN, but they are not equivalent! You know its kind of funny. While it is not complicated rocket science. It IS rocket science, As it is how the force of rocket engines are calculated. Just another of those useless bits of information... If you were climbing on the moon the #1 and #2 stopper could hold a pretty good whipper. Revising the gravitational constant from 9.8m/s^2 to 1.63m/s^2... 1000N/1.63m/s/s = 613 kg, so a 2kn stopper could hold 1227 kg before failure. Not too shabby. On belay, major tom? I think Major Toms biggest problem was that he was not being belayed. He was free soloing
He just got too cocky sending those sick moon high-balls, and made a tragic error in judgment regarding the risks inherent in a 0 g environment.
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Gmburns2000
Jan 19, 2010, 8:47 PM
Post #27 of 55
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dugl33 wrote: Kevthecoffeeguy wrote: dugl33 wrote: Kevthecoffeeguy wrote: petsfed wrote: billl7 wrote: yes, 1 kN = 100 kg Close, but not quite. 1 kN = 1000 N = 1000*1kg*1m/s/s Or, 1 kN is the same as 1000 Newtons, which is the same as 1000 times the force necessary to accelerate a mass of 1kg at a rate of 1 m/s/s The force of gravity on 100kg is approximately 1kN, but they are not equivalent! You know its kind of funny. While it is not complicated rocket science. It IS rocket science, As it is how the force of rocket engines are calculated. Just another of those useless bits of information... If you were climbing on the moon the #1 and #2 stopper could hold a pretty good whipper. Revising the gravitational constant from 9.8m/s^2 to 1.63m/s^2... 1000N/1.63m/s/s = 613 kg, so a 2kn stopper could hold 1227 kg before failure. Not too shabby. On belay, major tom? I think Major Toms biggest problem was that he was not being belayed. He was free soloing He just got too cocky sending those sick moon high-balls, and made a tragic error in judgment regarding the risks inherent in a 0 g environment.
it was when he overshot the dyno that did him in.
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MS1
Jan 19, 2010, 10:23 PM
Post #28 of 55
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dugl33 wrote: Kevthecoffeeguy wrote: dugl33 wrote: Kevthecoffeeguy wrote: petsfed wrote: billl7 wrote: yes, 1 kN = 100 kg Close, but not quite. 1 kN = 1000 N = 1000*1kg*1m/s/s Or, 1 kN is the same as 1000 Newtons, which is the same as 1000 times the force necessary to accelerate a mass of 1kg at a rate of 1 m/s/s The force of gravity on 100kg is approximately 1kN, but they are not equivalent! You know its kind of funny. While it is not complicated rocket science. It IS rocket science, As it is how the force of rocket engines are calculated. Just another of those useless bits of information... If you were climbing on the moon the #1 and #2 stopper could hold a pretty good whipper. Revising the gravitational constant from 9.8m/s^2 to 1.63m/s^2... 1000N/1.63m/s/s = 613 kg, so a 2kn stopper could hold 1227 kg before failure. Not too shabby. On belay, major tom? I think Major Toms biggest problem was that he was not being belayed. He was free soloing He just got too cocky sending those sick moon high-balls, and made a tragic error in judgment regarding the risks inherent in a 0 g environment.
Point 1: There is no such thing as a 0 g environment. What you mean is a microgravity environment.
Point 2: Sending highballs on the moon would teach you nothing about microgravity, because the moon has a lot more gravity than that.
Point 3: Major Tom never went to the moon, at least not in any of Bowie's songs or that Peter Schilling song about him. He just hung out in space and then failed to return some calls.
Point 4: No one boulders on the moon, because it is choss.
Pointless Digression: What would be the highball line on the moon (assuming it was worth climbing there)? On the one hand, lower gravity would make falls much gentler, and lunar regolith would probably provide a soft landing. On the other, do we have to take into account the need to avoid damaging breathing equipment and pressure suits?
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MS1
Jan 19, 2010, 10:25 PM
Post #29 of 55
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Gmburns2000 wrote: dugl33 wrote: Kevthecoffeeguy wrote: dugl33 wrote: Kevthecoffeeguy wrote: petsfed wrote: billl7 wrote: yes, 1 kN = 100 kg Close, but not quite. 1 kN = 1000 N = 1000*1kg*1m/s/s Or, 1 kN is the same as 1000 Newtons, which is the same as 1000 times the force necessary to accelerate a mass of 1kg at a rate of 1 m/s/s The force of gravity on 100kg is approximately 1kN, but they are not equivalent! You know its kind of funny. While it is not complicated rocket science. It IS rocket science, As it is how the force of rocket engines are calculated. Just another of those useless bits of information... If you were climbing on the moon the #1 and #2 stopper could hold a pretty good whipper. Revising the gravitational constant from 9.8m/s^2 to 1.63m/s^2... 1000N/1.63m/s/s = 613 kg, so a 2kn stopper could hold 1227 kg before failure. Not too shabby. On belay, major tom? I think Major Toms biggest problem was that he was not being belayed. He was free soloing He just got too cocky sending those sick moon high-balls, and made a tragic error in judgment regarding the risks inherent in a 0 g environment. it was when he overshot the dyno that did him in.
No way. I heard that he tried to smash the world record for highest altitude walk on a slackline without a tether, and then learned why that is a bad idea.
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Kevthecoffeeguy
Jan 19, 2010, 10:43 PM
Post #30 of 55
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MS1 wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: dugl33 wrote: Kevthecoffeeguy wrote: dugl33 wrote: Kevthecoffeeguy wrote: petsfed wrote: billl7 wrote: yes, 1 kN = 100 kg Close, but not quite. 1 kN = 1000 N = 1000*1kg*1m/s/s Or, 1 kN is the same as 1000 Newtons, which is the same as 1000 times the force necessary to accelerate a mass of 1kg at a rate of 1 m/s/s The force of gravity on 100kg is approximately 1kN, but they are not equivalent! You know its kind of funny. While it is not complicated rocket science. It IS rocket science, As it is how the force of rocket engines are calculated. Just another of those useless bits of information... If you were climbing on the moon the #1 and #2 stopper could hold a pretty good whipper. Revising the gravitational constant from 9.8m/s^2 to 1.63m/s^2... 1000N/1.63m/s/s = 613 kg, so a 2kn stopper could hold 1227 kg before failure. Not too shabby. On belay, major tom? I think Major Toms biggest problem was that he was not being belayed. He was free soloing He just got too cocky sending those sick moon high-balls, and made a tragic error in judgment regarding the risks inherent in a 0 g environment. it was when he overshot the dyno that did him in. No way. I heard that he tried to smash the world record for highest altitude walk on a slackline without a tether, and then learned why that is a bad idea.
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cjon3s
Jan 19, 2010, 11:38 PM
Post #31 of 55
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Speaking of Major Tom, how do you like the new Lincoln commercial with the cover by STG of the original?
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dugl33
Jan 20, 2010, 12:39 AM
Post #32 of 55
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MS1 wrote: Point 1: There is no such thing as a 0 g environment. What you mean is a microgravity environment. Point 2: Sending highballs on the moon would teach you nothing about microgravity, because the moon has a lot more gravity than that. Point 3: Major Tom never went to the moon, at least not in any of Bowie's songs or that Peter Schilling song about him. He just hung out in space and then failed to return some calls. Point 4: No one boulders on the moon, because it is choss. Pointless Digression: What would be the highball line on the moon (assuming it was worth climbing there)? On the one hand, lower gravity would make falls much gentler, and lunar regolith would probably provide a soft landing. On the other, do we have to take into account the need to avoid damaging breathing equipment and pressure suits?
I'll concede your point. In Major Tom's case it would be more accurate to say orbital weightlessness, or apparent 0 g.
I would reserve micro gravity for deep space. At what point, if ever, is lim 1/x as x approaches infinity, reasonably stated as 0?
0 g is the theorized to exist at the center of planetary bodies (center of the planet's moment of inertia or mass)
A highball on the moon is of course subjective, but a problem in the neighborhood of 150 ft would be the equivalent of a 25 foot earth boulder.
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Gmburns2000
Jan 20, 2010, 1:40 AM
Post #33 of 55
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MS1 wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: dugl33 wrote: Kevthecoffeeguy wrote: dugl33 wrote: Kevthecoffeeguy wrote: petsfed wrote: billl7 wrote: yes, 1 kN = 100 kg Close, but not quite. 1 kN = 1000 N = 1000*1kg*1m/s/s Or, 1 kN is the same as 1000 Newtons, which is the same as 1000 times the force necessary to accelerate a mass of 1kg at a rate of 1 m/s/s The force of gravity on 100kg is approximately 1kN, but they are not equivalent! You know its kind of funny. While it is not complicated rocket science. It IS rocket science, As it is how the force of rocket engines are calculated. Just another of those useless bits of information... If you were climbing on the moon the #1 and #2 stopper could hold a pretty good whipper. Revising the gravitational constant from 9.8m/s^2 to 1.63m/s^2... 1000N/1.63m/s/s = 613 kg, so a 2kn stopper could hold 1227 kg before failure. Not too shabby. On belay, major tom? I think Major Toms biggest problem was that he was not being belayed. He was free soloing He just got too cocky sending those sick moon high-balls, and made a tragic error in judgment regarding the risks inherent in a 0 g environment. it was when he overshot the dyno that did him in. No way. I heard that he tried to smash the world record for highest altitude walk on a slackline without a tether, and then learned why that is a bad idea.
Dean Potter he wasn't.
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qwert
Jan 20, 2010, 9:56 AM
Post #34 of 55
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Speaking of major tom:
If this thread drifts any more, it probably will suffer of the same fate as major tom
qwert
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sbaclimber
Jan 20, 2010, 11:24 AM
Post #35 of 55
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qwert wrote: Speaking of major tom: If this thread drifts any more, it probably will suffer of the same fate as major tom qwert 
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johnwesely
Jan 20, 2010, 12:45 PM
Post #36 of 55
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qwert wrote: Speaking of major tom: If this thread drifts any more, it probably will suffer of the same fate as major tom qwert
I love stoppers!! I carry 3 sets on every climb!
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donald949
Jan 20, 2010, 5:15 PM
Post #37 of 55
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johnwesely wrote: qwert wrote: Speaking of major tom: If this thread drifts any more, it probably will suffer of the same fate as major tom qwert I love stoppers!! I carry 3 sets on every climb!
How about homemade stoppers? I carry these on every climb.
(This post was edited by donald949 on Jan 20, 2010, 5:16 PM)
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johnwesely
Jan 20, 2010, 7:41 PM
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donald949 wrote: johnwesely wrote: qwert wrote: Speaking of major tom: If this thread drifts any more, it probably will suffer of the same fate as major tom qwert I love stoppers!! I carry 3 sets on every climb! How about homemade stoppers? I carry these on every climb. [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=4512;[/image]
I really dig your cord.
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donald949
Jan 20, 2010, 8:28 PM
Post #39 of 55
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johnwesely wrote: donald949 wrote: johnwesely wrote: qwert wrote: Speaking of major tom: If this thread drifts any more, it probably will suffer of the same fate as major tom qwert I love stoppers!! I carry 3 sets on every climb! How about homemade stoppers? I carry these on every climb. [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=4512;[/image] I really dig your cord.
Thanks, I origonally drilled them for 5.5 mm Kevlar. That was 20 years ago, so I replaced the Kevlar a couple years ago with 5.5 Techcord. Or something like that.
Quite the effort to stuff the cord down those holes. Prolly enlarge the holes next time, so the cord goes better. 
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cracklover
Jan 20, 2010, 8:45 PM
Post #40 of 55
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dugl33 wrote: Kevthecoffeeguy wrote: petsfed wrote: billl7 wrote: yes, 1 kN = 100 kg Close, but not quite. 1 kN = 1000 N = 1000*1kg*1m/s/s Or, 1 kN is the same as 1000 Newtons, which is the same as 1000 times the force necessary to accelerate a mass of 1kg at a rate of 1 m/s/s The force of gravity on 100kg is approximately 1kN, but they are not equivalent! You know its kind of funny. While it is not complicated rocket science. It IS rocket science, As it is how the force of rocket engines are calculated. Just another of those useless bits of information... If you were climbing on the moon the #1 and #2 stopper could hold a pretty good whipper. Revising the gravitational constant from 9.8m/s^2 to 1.63m/s^2... 1000N/1.63m/s/s = 613 kg, so a 2kn stopper could hold 1227 kg before failure. Not too shabby. On belay, major tom?
Adequate for running protection, but still nowhere near sufficient for an anchor. Let's take a look at a severe fall on the moon,
A standard UIAA fall (FF = 1.78, weight = 180lbs) on a rope with an impact force of 8kN, on the moon, would produce forces on the anchor of over 5kN. So even two #2 BD nuts, perfectly equalized, in perfect rock, would not hold.
Better to go with Aliens. On the moon, they'd be right at home.
GO
(This post was edited by cracklover on Jan 20, 2010, 10:49 PM)
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Adk
Jan 20, 2010, 9:45 PM
Post #41 of 55
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donald949 wrote: Thanks, I origonally drilled them for 5.5 mm Kevlar. That was 20 years ago, so I replaced the Kevlar a couple years ago with 5.5 Techcord. Or something like that. Quite the effort to stuff the cord down those holes. Prolly enlarge the holes next time, so the cord goes better.
Nah! Cut the cord on a real sharp angle and then hit it with some heat, pull it out quick to form a point.
It will look then like a pencil point. Once it cools and we all know that is quick you can just stick it through. After you tie your fishermans cut it flat across and singe.
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cracklover
Jan 20, 2010, 10:45 PM
Post #42 of 55
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Adk wrote: donald949 wrote: Thanks, I origonally drilled them for 5.5 mm Kevlar. That was 20 years ago, so I replaced the Kevlar a couple years ago with 5.5 Techcord. Or something like that. Quite the effort to stuff the cord down those holes. Prolly enlarge the holes next time, so the cord goes better. Nah! Cut the cord on a real sharp angle and then hit it with some heat, pull it out quick to form a point. It will look then like a pencil point. Once it cools and we all know that is quick you can just stick it through. After you tie your fishermans cut it flat across and singe.
Another solution is to push back the sheath, cut out some of the core, and then pull the sheath tight again. You can then heat it up to make that part stiffer, but whether you do so or not, you have a nice thin end to work with.
GO
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Arrogant_Bastard
Jan 20, 2010, 11:02 PM
Post #43 of 55
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cracklover wrote: Adk wrote: donald949 wrote: Thanks, I origonally drilled them for 5.5 mm Kevlar. That was 20 years ago, so I replaced the Kevlar a couple years ago with 5.5 Techcord. Or something like that. Quite the effort to stuff the cord down those holes. Prolly enlarge the holes next time, so the cord goes better. Nah! Cut the cord on a real sharp angle and then hit it with some heat, pull it out quick to form a point. It will look then like a pencil point. Once it cools and we all know that is quick you can just stick it through. After you tie your fishermans cut it flat across and singe. Another solution is to push back the sheath, cut out some of the core, and then pull the sheath tight again. You can then heat it up to make that part stiffer, but whether you do so or not, you have a nice thin end to work with. GO
Ah yes, the ole reverse-circumcision technique.
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donald949
Jan 20, 2010, 11:34 PM
Post #44 of 55
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Arrogant_Bastard wrote: cracklover wrote: Adk wrote: donald949 wrote: Thanks, I origonally drilled them for 5.5 mm Kevlar. That was 20 years ago, so I replaced the Kevlar a couple years ago with 5.5 Techcord. Or something like that. Quite the effort to stuff the cord down those holes. Prolly enlarge the holes next time, so the cord goes better. Nah! Cut the cord on a real sharp angle and then hit it with some heat, pull it out quick to form a point. It will look then like a pencil point. Once it cools and we all know that is quick you can just stick it through. After you tie your fishermans cut it flat across and singe. Another solution is to push back the sheath, cut out some of the core, and then pull the sheath tight again. You can then heat it up to make that part stiffer, but whether you do so or not, you have a nice thin end to work with. GO Ah yes, the ole reverse-circumcision technique.
I ended up doing something like that.
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TarHeelEMT
Jan 23, 2010, 3:06 AM
Post #45 of 55
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I carry the #1 and #2 stoppers but have never used them for trad. I've got them in case:
1)I've screwed up somehow and am in a crappy situation and need to aid through something
2) I've screwed up somehow and am in a crappy situation and have absolutely no other options for pro
Oh, and yer gonna die.
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dr_feelgood
Jan 23, 2010, 3:18 AM
Post #46 of 55
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donald949 wrote: johnwesely wrote: donald949 wrote: johnwesely wrote: qwert wrote: Speaking of major tom: If this thread drifts any more, it probably will suffer of the same fate as major tom qwert I love stoppers!! I carry 3 sets on every climb! How about homemade stoppers? I carry these on every climb. [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=4512;[/image] I really dig your cord. Thanks, I origonally drilled them for 5.5 mm Kevlar. That was 20 years ago, so I replaced the Kevlar a couple years ago with 5.5 Techcord. Or something like that. Quite the effort to stuff the cord down those holes. Prolly enlarge the holes next time, so the cord goes better.
And what does your boyfriend think of your new loose hole?
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donald949
Jan 25, 2010, 6:25 PM
Post #48 of 55
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dr_feelgood wrote: donald949 wrote: johnwesely wrote: donald949 wrote: johnwesely wrote: qwert wrote: Speaking of major tom: If this thread drifts any more, it probably will suffer of the same fate as major tom qwert I love stoppers!! I carry 3 sets on every climb! How about homemade stoppers? I carry these on every climb. I really dig your cord. Thanks, I origonally drilled them for 5.5 mm Kevlar. That was 20 years ago, so I replaced the Kevlar a couple years ago with 5.5 Techcord. Or something like that. Quite the effort to stuff the cord down those holes. Prolly enlarge the holes next time, so the cord goes better. And what does your boyfriend think of your new loose hole?
The hole isn't enlarged yet.
But next time I sling them thats what I'll do.
We'll have to back to you then.
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desertwanderer81
Jan 27, 2010, 6:13 PM
Post #49 of 55
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mackiethe1for wrote: Hey! first thread haha, anyways just got into climbing a couple of weeks ago with my brother and we are building a nice rack so far! we just got our set of stoppers from Black Diamond 1-13: http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/shop/climb/protection/stopperr-set-pro-no-1-13 They seem great but what are stoppers 1-2 supposed to be used for? i mean the instructions say they musnt be used as a fall arrest protection so what do you use them for? hehe, another thing i understand a KN is a measure of force and from what i have learnt A KN is of about 100 Kg of weight is that right? and one last thing! how do you carry stoppers? do you put them all in one carabiner or do you put one on each quickdraw? Thanks a lot guys! i hope to start using them this weekend.
I can't believe that no one has asked the "troll?" question yet!
Don't start leading trad without first following someone who knows what they're doing.
Nough said.
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cracklover
Jan 27, 2010, 6:44 PM
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desertwanderer81 wrote: mackiethe1for wrote: Hey! first thread haha, anyways just got into climbing a couple of weeks ago with my brother and we are building a nice rack so far! we just got our set of stoppers from Black Diamond 1-13: http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/shop/climb/protection/stopperr-set-pro-no-1-13 They seem great but what are stoppers 1-2 supposed to be used for? i mean the instructions say they musnt be used as a fall arrest protection so what do you use them for? hehe, another thing i understand a KN is a measure of force and from what i have learnt A KN is of about 100 Kg of weight is that right? and one last thing! how do you carry stoppers? do you put them all in one carabiner or do you put one on each quickdraw? Thanks a lot guys! i hope to start using them this weekend. I can't believe that no one has asked the "troll?" question yet! Don't start leading trad without first following someone who knows what they're doing. Nough said.
I didn't learn that way. IIRC, I followed at most one pitch before I started leading. Seemed to work for me.
Then again, I didn't need to go to rc.com to ask "what's a small stopper for?"
GO
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