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kjaking
May 28, 2010, 12:26 AM
Post #51 of 57
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Registered: Sep 13, 2009
Posts: 35
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bullswimmer wrote: What about the Mad Rock Ultralights?
I use them, and like the way they clip, but the superlights would probably be better for dedicated sport climbers so that you have the keynose bolt end. I use them for both sport and trad and am appreciative of the low weight. They are way cheaper than other draws, but still work fine. Its not the quickdraw that gets you to the top, it just catches you when you fall.
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milesenoell
May 28, 2010, 12:44 AM
Post #52 of 57
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Registered: Sep 19, 2006
Posts: 1156
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Just checked out the Ange. Looks cool.
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mclimber01
Aug 13, 2010, 12:12 AM
Post #53 of 57
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Registered: Jul 22, 2010
Posts: 7
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wire gates are what I prefer. they are lighter and I have heard that they are less prone to gate flutter on a fall. but I think it is mostly personal preference.
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vegastradguy
Aug 13, 2010, 12:28 AM
Post #54 of 57
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
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cracklover wrote: bill413 wrote: Man, everybody's stealing the design! I wish! Maybe then they wouldn't be so damned expensive. Sadly my repeated misstatements do nothing to break the monopoly WC has on the design, so expensive they remain. GO
well....the cost really isnt in the design, its in the forging. the Helium is a BITCH to forge- thus the high cost. (i believe it has a very high rejection rate compared to virtually all other carabiners during manufacturing) i highly doubt anyone else could replicate this forging process for much cheaper than it currently is (at least for the moment).
that said, WC has licensed the design to DMM for their new Alpha Wire carabiner thats coming out this spring (which will retail at $12.50), and BD has its new Hoodwire carabiner that looks and functions much like the Helium but gets around the tough forging by adding some aluminum post-forge. this also means its cheap- the Hoodwire will clock in at $9 retail.
all of that said, just get whatever carabiner you like the feel of- they all work, they all catch falls, it really comes down to whatever you like the feel of in your hand.
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tradmanclimbs
Aug 13, 2010, 1:17 PM
Post #55 of 57
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Registered: Apr 24, 2003
Posts: 2599
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usually the best biner is the one that is close to what you want and on sale. I bought a bunch of mammut wiregates a few years ago for 4 bucks and change. they work just fine. Only a few biners out there that I really don't like.
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granite_grrl
Aug 14, 2010, 1:38 AM
Post #56 of 57
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
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suprasoup wrote: granite_grrl wrote: yodadave wrote: granite_grrl wrote: yodadave wrote: granite_grrl wrote: yodadave wrote: granite_grrl wrote: Don't go for those stupid thin dogbones. The thicker ones are easier to grab. This is not advocating to grab your draws all the time, but is a very useful tool when you start working really hard routes for you. Those who argue that you should never grab a draw don't work routes that are hard for them.that or they are just willing to take the fall This coming from the 5.9 sport climber? Yeah, you obviously have a good handle on these things. take it easy princess, Does it look like i update that log frequently? Also that log does not list what i fall off. I'll have you know i've fallen off some serious 5.13s  In all seriousness i wasn't trying to flame you i was just saying some people prefer to take the fall over grabbing a draw. When in the past i've grabbed draws its been scarier than a clean fall. Hope you have fun falling off your 5.13s, I think I'll actually work things out and send some hard routes instead. Maybe someday you'll understand what "working a route" really means. all this from someone who if i judge her by her logbook, as she has judged me, has her proudest ascent as hangdogging an 11. Well yes clearly you are a vastly superior climber to me in every respect. So ignore my points about grabbing dogbones and have fun "working a route" (aka french freeing and hangdogging the crap out of moderates. And in case you have the capacity to look past the flame throwing i will repeat In all seriousness i wasn't trying to flame you i was just saying some people prefer to take the fall over grabbing a draw. When in the past i've grabbed draws its been scarier than a clean fall.Yup, three seasons ago I could top rope 5.11b clean. You sure showed me! I probably haven't improved at all since 2006. For the love of pete, update your log. Last update was fall 2008, less than a year and a half ago. You've only had one season to improve since then! What else am I supposed to think? It was an honest mistake, so please get your panties out of that bunch. Understand that there's a lot more to working a route than falling over and over again till you finally hit the sequence right. You keep talking about grabbing draws when you're scared, THIS IS NOT WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT. I'm talking about efficiently working out moves on a route you want to redpoint. I don't care if I'm a better climber than you or not. I just know how to work routes, and you are obviously very inefficient at it. Why not TR it then until you've dialed in the moves? Why bother with falling or grabbing draws on lead if all your doing is sussing out the moves?
There are routes that are way easier to work on lead. Usually they are steep and bolted for a leader, not someone TRing.
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RadarLove
Aug 18, 2010, 2:59 PM
Post #57 of 57
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Registered: Sep 29, 2009
Posts: 8
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kjaking wrote: bullswimmer wrote: What about the Mad Rock Ultralights? I use them, and like the way they clip, but the superlights would probably be better for dedicated sport climbers so that you have the keynose bolt end. I use them for both sport and trad and am appreciative of the low weight. They are way cheaper than other draws, but still work fine. Its not the quickdraw that gets you to the top, it just catches you when you fall.
I have the Ultralights for sport, and I like them a lot. I waffled for a while between those and a few other kinds. I wanted the Heliums, but couldn't throw the cash down for them, and I really like the way the Ultralights clip and feel in my hand.
I've gotten crap from a few people because they're made in China, but so far that hasn't been a problem for me. My Arc'teryx harness is made in China too, and that thing is absolute ecstasy compared to other harnesses I've owned that were proudly made in the USA.
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