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shortfatoldguy
Dec 16, 2002, 5:52 PM
Post #51 of 53
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Registered: Nov 4, 2002
Posts: 1694
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>Don't climb above the anchor while still
>clipped in with your daisy/runner.
I do this all the time, but, thanks to my nice snug daisy and taut clove hitch on the rope, I never get very far. And then my partner laughs at me and hits me on the noggin with a #9 nut.
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shortfatoldguy
Dec 16, 2002, 6:08 PM
Post #52 of 53
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Registered: Nov 4, 2002
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Quote:This is nonsense. Think about it. You will stay clipped into the "full" loop if you are clipped to one pocket
Ouch. Such harsh language. Yes, of couse, you'll stay clipped in if you only clip one pocket. I just always leave the end loop clipped, just because I'm an idiot. And so that I can clip the locker to the anchor and then choose my loop and always remain clipped to the anchor. (Even though, I hasten to add before mountainmonkey flays me again, I'm also tied to the anchor w/the rope.)
I'm going to stop talking about daisies, though, 'cause every time I do someone calls me names and it's beginning to affect my self-esteem.
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redpoint73
Dec 16, 2002, 6:28 PM
Post #53 of 53
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Registered: Aug 20, 2002
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Isn't calling yourself shortfatoldguy damaging enough to your self esteem????
Seriously though, it seems ridiculous that someone might "climb" while fixed to an anchor, but it DOES happen. I'm not talking about actually "climbing", like the next pitch. But maybe you are stepping up just a bit to get a directional piece in before you go on belay for the next pitch. Or you and your partner need to step around each other to get situated. For what ever reason, you should not "step" (hows that???) above the anchor point while fixed with a sling/daisy. You only have to move up 2 feet, then fall to generate a factor 2 fall on a 2 foot runner or daisy.
I have also seen a guy do this in the gym while setting a route. He wasn't roped up but he had his harness on. Then he clipped directly into a bolt (to his harness) with a draw in order to place a hold more easily. Then he starting levering his body ABOVE the bolt. Again, possible factor 2 fall. Maybe not dangerous in this particular situation, since he was maybe 8 feet of the floor (with cushy shredded rubber fill). But a fall could have damaged his draw.
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