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sungam
Apr 23, 2010, 5:20 PM
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Yeah, we need a little encyclopedia climbatica action here. I want a list of all the worthy hardmen (and women) that put the balls (of muff) to the wall and pulled off some neat stuff. I'll order the stuff into alphabeticalness and stuff.
So here it is,
Who's Who in climbing history:
A
Abalakov, Vitaly. 1906 - 1986 Russain Alpinist. Invented the Abalakov/V-thread.
B
Balmat, Jacques. 1762–1834. First ascent of Mont Blanc.
C
Riccardo Cassin. 1909-2009. Italian alpinist. Literally thousands of first ascents of technical routes all over the world. Started Cassin equipment. Decorated for military achievement for the Italian resistance partisans.
D
Dawes Johnny. 1964 -. British rock climber. First ascents of routes with both very high technical difficulty and striking risk (poor gear, long run outs). Most known for his routes on the English Gritstone.
E
F
Frost, Tom. ????-. First ascents on Yosemite big walls, and some in the greater ranges. Also, first ascent of Lotus Flower Tower in the Cirque of the Unclimbables. Owner of Frostworks. Co-invented the RURP with Yvon.
G
Gill, John. 1937 - . The father of bouldering. First to use chalk and dynamic movement. Among the first to view bouldering as it's own sport and not just training. Please note that the beanies and boom-boxes were not his idea.
H
Humar, Tomaž. 1969 - 2009. Slovenian alpinist and big-waller. Famous for his bold new routes and solos in the greater ranges.
I
J
K
Kain, Conrad. 1883-1934. Austrian super-guide. First ascents of serious peaks in Europe and Canada, including the stunning Bugaboo Spire.
L
Lowe, Alex. 1958-1999. American alpinist and ultra-badass.
I'll finish this later, I have an exam on monday that I should probably get back to studying for.
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jcrew
Apr 23, 2010, 5:41 PM
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sungam wrote: I want a list of all the worthy hardmen J .
j jcrew .....guy basicially invented the concept of going big on the intenet, then being on "rest day" at the crag.
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karmiclimber
Apr 23, 2010, 6:39 PM
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Before everyone replies, adding their name to the list...there is this:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_climbers
Personal favorites:
Yvon Choinard...founder of Choinard gear and patagonia.
Lynn Hill...feed the nose. I want to be just like her when I growed up.
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johnwesely
Apr 23, 2010, 6:43 PM
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Ebert, Jim. Has guided more clients in more mountain states, 7, and more alpine countries, 11, than any other guide with a perfect safety record.
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Dip
Apr 23, 2010, 8:19 PM
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^^^ literally made me laugh out loud ^^^
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karmiclimber
Apr 23, 2010, 10:02 PM
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Laugh all you want but you should research about people before you laugh at them. He charges good money to take people who cannot walk hiking in the Grand Canyon. When was the last time you did something nice for someone else and made an awesome profit?!? Food for thoughts.
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johnwesely
Apr 23, 2010, 10:05 PM
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karmiclimber wrote: Laugh all you want but you should research about people before you laugh at them. He charges good money to take people who cannot walk hiking in the Grand Canyon. When was the last time you did something nice for someone else and made an awesome profit?!? Food for thoughts.
Never.
I am sure Jim is a great guy, but that doesn't mean that he is not also a pretty funny dude.
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karmiclimber
Apr 23, 2010, 10:08 PM
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God, I am just glad someone out there is saving all of the top ropers who are dying left and right. He said in his resume that no one ever got injured on a trip with him that could not be fixed with a bandaid. Broken foot? Put a bandaid on that sucker and quit yer bitchin'.
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johnwesely
Apr 23, 2010, 10:13 PM
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karmiclimber wrote: God, I am just glad someone out there is saving all of the top ropers who are dying left and right. He said in his resume that no one ever got injured on a trip with him that could not be fixed with a bandaid. Broken foot? Put a bandaid on that sucker and quit yer bitchin'.
I am pretty sure that you misread the pdf. He never had an injury that could not be fixed with a bandaid or and ace bandage. He only says it a million times. How dare you slander JIM EBERT like that.
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johnwesely
Apr 23, 2010, 10:13 PM
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Oh, and to be on topic.
R for Royal
R for Robbins
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karmiclimber
Apr 23, 2010, 10:14 PM
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We should call him. No you should call him. Record him and put it on your blog. I double dog dare you.
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hafilax
Apr 23, 2010, 10:17 PM
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Twight, Mark. In the straight bad-ass category.
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johnwesely
Apr 23, 2010, 10:18 PM
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karmiclimber wrote: We should call him. No you should call him. Record him and put it on your blog. I double dog dare you.
My blog couldn't handle it, but I am sure yours could.
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irregularpanda
Apr 23, 2010, 10:54 PM
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sungam wrote: B Balmat, Jacques. 1762–1834. First ascent of Mont Blanc.
Beckey, Fred.
Still alive, although only your mom and china has any idea of his whereabouts recently. More first ascents than....your mom.
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nkane
Apr 23, 2010, 11:15 PM
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Wiessner, Fritz
Kraus, Hans
Bachar, John
Long, John
Whymper, Edward
Shipton, Eric
---
Me.
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staredge
Apr 24, 2010, 1:08 AM
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S
Schoening, Pete.
Most famous belay bitch in the mountaineering world.
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staredge
Apr 24, 2010, 1:10 AM
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Dip wrote: ^^^ literally made me laugh out loud ^^^
+1
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i_h8_choss
Apr 24, 2010, 9:02 AM
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Matt Wilder
he's freed Yosemite big walls, climbs 5.14R on gear, and sends V14 boulders. All while working on his Phd in cognitive science. He is the author of 2 guidebooks (Yosemite Bouldering & Hueco Tanks Bouldering), and he used to be a rubik's cube performer on the street. That's all pretty bad-ass IMO.
notable ascents:
-FFA of Cheating Reality 5.14R N face Devils Thumb.
-FA of Viceroy 5.14 R (unrepeated)
-Sent The Path 5.14.
-FA's of 2 buttermilk highballs This Side of Paradise (V10) and The Ninth (V7). They are both 50 feet or higher.
interview: http://gtotheregory.blogspot.com/...ilder-interview.html
It'd be nice to see him on your list.
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bennydh
Apr 24, 2010, 9:36 AM
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karmiclimber wrote: We should call him. No you should call him. Record him and put it on your blog. I double dog dare you.
This thread also made me laugh. If someone gets the audio, I'll post it ... at least until I see a 'cease and desist' letter.
For the list:
E: Ed Webster - I've always thought he had a good perspective on alpine/mountaineering worth sharing.
P: Phil Bircheff on a good day, for FAs and sculptures
and
P: Phil Bircheff on a bad day, for being that crusty cranky old guy.
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sungam
Apr 24, 2010, 9:38 AM
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Okay, Matt Wilder I like!
Fred becky will OBVIOUSLY make the list. Indeed all of the ones on the wiki list will be on it. Let's get some names that aren't on it down!
Come on - who developed all your local crags? Who put up the testpieces you aspire to climb in your state?
Post 'em UP!
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iknowfear
Apr 24, 2010, 11:48 AM
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karmiclimber wrote: Before everyone replies, adding their name to the list...there is this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_climbers Personal favorites: Yvon Choinard...founder of Choinard gear and patagonia. Lynn Hill... feed the nose. I want to be just like her when I growed up.
that sound yummy
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johnwesely
Apr 24, 2010, 2:37 PM
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sungam wrote: Okay, Matt Wilder I like! Fred becky will OBVIOUSLY make the list. Indeed all of the ones on the wiki list will be on it. Let's get some names that aren't on it down! Come on - who developed all your local crags? Who put up the testpieces you aspire to climb in your state? Post 'em UP!
Stegg, Shannon, The Epitome of the southern hardman.
He put up almost every route at Tallulah, and half of the routes at Laurel Knob, including the only 5.12s.
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colatownkid
Apr 24, 2010, 3:48 PM
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johnwesely wrote: sungam wrote: Okay, Matt Wilder I like! Fred becky will OBVIOUSLY make the list. Indeed all of the ones on the wiki list will be on it. Let's get some names that aren't on it down! Come on - who developed all your local crags? Who put up the testpieces you aspire to climb in your state? Post 'em UP! Stegg, Shannon, The Epitome of the southern hardman. He put up almost every route at Tallulah, and half of the routes at Laurel Knob, including the only 5.12s.
In that case we probably can't overlook Arno Ilgner or Rob Robinson either.
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johnwesely
Apr 24, 2010, 3:50 PM
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colatownkid wrote: johnwesely wrote: sungam wrote: Okay, Matt Wilder I like! Fred becky will OBVIOUSLY make the list. Indeed all of the ones on the wiki list will be on it. Let's get some names that aren't on it down! Come on - who developed all your local crags? Who put up the testpieces you aspire to climb in your state? Post 'em UP! Stegg, Shannon, The Epitome of the southern hardman. He put up almost every route at Tallulah, and half of the routes at Laurel Knob, including the only 5.12s. In that case we probably can't overlook Arno Ilgner or Rob Robinson either.
Agreed.
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sungam
Apr 24, 2010, 4:10 PM
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johnwesely wrote: colatownkid wrote: johnwesely wrote: sungam wrote: Okay, Matt Wilder I like! Fred becky will OBVIOUSLY make the list. Indeed all of the ones on the wiki list will be on it. Let's get some names that aren't on it down! Come on - who developed all your local crags? Who put up the testpieces you aspire to climb in your state? Post 'em UP! Stegg, Shannon, The Epitome of the southern hardman. He put up almost every route at Tallulah, and half of the routes at Laurel Knob, including the only 5.12s. In that case we probably can't overlook Arno Ilgner or Rob Robinson either. Agreed.
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johnwesely
Apr 24, 2010, 4:51 PM
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sungam wrote: johnwesely wrote: colatownkid wrote: johnwesely wrote: sungam wrote: Okay, Matt Wilder I like! Fred becky will OBVIOUSLY make the list. Indeed all of the ones on the wiki list will be on it. Let's get some names that aren't on it down! Come on - who developed all your local crags? Who put up the testpieces you aspire to climb in your state? Post 'em UP! Stegg, Shannon, The Epitome of the southern hardman. He put up almost every route at Tallulah, and half of the routes at Laurel Knob, including the only 5.12s. In that case we probably can't overlook Arno Ilgner or Rob Robinson either. Agreed. Can you guys give me little snippets like I have on the list? Preferably with where they're from/operated and when.
Shannon Stegg, late seventies to the present, Responsible for hard, bold traditional climbs all over the southeast. Most notable for almost every route at Tallulah, Over 50 pitches at Whitesides, including the only route with no bolts on the main South East face, and almost half of the lines at Laurel Knob.
I don't have enough info on Arno, outside of his stuff at Whitesides, to write one.
Same deal with Rob Robinson. However, there is a really great interview with him on the SCC website.
http://www.seclimbers.org/...;order=0&thold=0
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potreroed
Apr 25, 2010, 3:14 AM
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B Baillie, Rusty
C Cleveland, Pete
E Erickson, Jim
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rgold
May 8, 2010, 3:45 AM
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Just for openers,
John Bragg
Art Gran
Jim McCarthy
Rich Romano
John Stannard
Dick Williams
Steve Wunsch
The East Coast, from north to south, gets especially short shrift on the Wiki.
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sungam
May 8, 2010, 10:26 AM
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Keep 'em coming. I'll get around to sorting through them all and compiling the list soon as finals are over. (2 weeks or so)
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sycamore
May 8, 2010, 1:15 PM
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If this is your standard, then it's gotta be said:
Porter Jarrard
Doug Reed
I don't even know how many routes of theirs I (or you) have climbed.
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guangzhou
May 11, 2010, 4:21 AM
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E for Eman
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rangerrob
May 12, 2010, 2:47 AM
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Henry Barber
John Stannard
Fred Beckey
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napoleon_in_rags
May 13, 2010, 1:07 AM
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The Gunks List:
Fritz Wiesner
Hans Kraus
Dick Williams
Lynn Hill
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sungam
May 13, 2010, 12:21 PM
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Hey guys/gals, some of the people listed don't have tons of info available online - would people be keen on writing up a short biography on their favorite local hero/ine/s? I've decided that the little short things I did in the examples is NOT enough, we should have a nice big info on everybody.
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napoleon_in_rags
May 14, 2010, 1:55 AM
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sungam wrote: Hey guys/gals, some of the people listed don't have tons of info available online - would people be keen on writing up a short biography on their favorite local hero/ine/s? I've decided that the little short things I did in the examples is NOT enough, we should have a nice big info on everybody.
A good start for the US rock climbers is "American Rock" by Don Mellor. Good Book.
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sungam
May 14, 2010, 9:07 AM
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napoleon_in_rags wrote: sungam wrote: Hey guys/gals, some of the people listed don't have tons of info available online - would people be keen on writing up a short biography on their favorite local hero/ine/s? I've decided that the little short things I did in the examples is NOT enough, we should have a nice big info on everybody. A good start for the US rock climbers is "American Rock" by Don Mellor. Good Book.
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curt
May 16, 2010, 4:04 AM
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napoleon_in_rags wrote: sungam wrote: Hey guys/gals, some of the people listed don't have tons of info available online - would people be keen on writing up a short biography on their favorite local hero/ine/s? I've decided that the little short things I did in the examples is NOT enough, we should have a nice big info on everybody. A good start for the US rock climbers is "American Rock" by Don Mellor. Good Book.
An even better resource is Pat Ament's book, "Wizards of Rock, A History of Free Climbing in America."
Curt
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moose_droppings
May 16, 2010, 5:13 AM
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Herb and Jan Conn
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sungam
May 16, 2010, 12:22 PM
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moose_droppings wrote: Herb and Jan Conn
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dingus
May 16, 2010, 1:33 PM
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karmiclimber wrote: God, I am just glad someone out there is saving all of the top ropers who are dying left and right. He said in his resume that no one ever got injured on a trip with him that could not be fixed with a bandaid. Broken foot? Put a bandaid on that sucker and quit yer bitchin'.
Bag Balm works better.
DMT
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dingus
May 16, 2010, 1:35 PM
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sungam wrote: johnwesely wrote: colatownkid wrote: johnwesely wrote: sungam wrote: Okay, Matt Wilder I like! Fred becky will OBVIOUSLY make the list. Indeed all of the ones on the wiki list will be on it. Let's get some names that aren't on it down! Come on - who developed all your local crags? Who put up the testpieces you aspire to climb in your state? Post 'em UP! Stegg, Shannon, The Epitome of the southern hardman. He put up almost every route at Tallulah, and half of the routes at Laurel Knob, including the only 5.12s. In that case we probably can't overlook Arno Ilgner or Rob Robinson either. Agreed. Can you guys give me little snippets like I have on the list? Preferably with where they're from/operated and when.
together with Forrest Gardner they discovered and opened T-Wall. That do ya?
DMT
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sungam
May 16, 2010, 3:33 PM
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dingus wrote: sungam wrote: johnwesely wrote: colatownkid wrote: johnwesely wrote: sungam wrote: Okay, Matt Wilder I like! Fred becky will OBVIOUSLY make the list. Indeed all of the ones on the wiki list will be on it. Let's get some names that aren't on it down! Come on - who developed all your local crags? Who put up the testpieces you aspire to climb in your state? Post 'em UP! Stegg, Shannon, The Epitome of the southern hardman. He put up almost every route at Tallulah, and half of the routes at Laurel Knob, including the only 5.12s. In that case we probably can't overlook Arno Ilgner or Rob Robinson either. Agreed. Can you guys give me little snippets like I have on the list? Preferably with where they're from/operated and when. together with Forrest Gardner they discovered and opened T-Wall. That do ya? DMT
E.G. "John Langsdon is a pretentions spray-bot that is known for climbing trad harder then he had* ever climbed sport. He did lots of gnarly offwidths in CO, UT, and WY, but then moved to Bermuda where he now sprays at the climbing wall for a living and does all the hardest routes in the area, except when dave macleod comes to town and puts up a V13. He met dave."
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dingus
May 16, 2010, 8:14 PM
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sungam wrote: dingus wrote: sungam wrote: johnwesely wrote: colatownkid wrote: johnwesely wrote: sungam wrote: Okay, Matt Wilder I like! Fred becky will OBVIOUSLY make the list. Indeed all of the ones on the wiki list will be on it. Let's get some names that aren't on it down! Come on - who developed all your local crags? Who put up the testpieces you aspire to climb in your state? Post 'em UP! Stegg, Shannon, The Epitome of the southern hardman. He put up almost every route at Tallulah, and half of the routes at Laurel Knob, including the only 5.12s. In that case we probably can't overlook Arno Ilgner or Rob Robinson either. Agreed. Can you guys give me little snippets like I have on the list? Preferably with where they're from/operated and when. together with Forrest Gardner they discovered and opened T-Wall. That do ya? DMT Well, it's a start. T-wall is badass, but I was hoping for a little back story to each person. E.G. "John Langsdon is a pretentions spray-bot that is known for climbing trad harder then he had* ever climbed sport. He did lots of gnarly offwidths in CO, UT, and WY, but then moved to Bermuda where he now sprays at the climbing wall for a living and does all the hardest routes in the area, except when dave macleod comes to town and puts up a V13. He met dave."
Do you pay by the word, or by post?
DMT
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sungam
May 16, 2010, 9:51 PM
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dingus wrote: sungam wrote: dingus wrote: sungam wrote: johnwesely wrote: colatownkid wrote: johnwesely wrote: sungam wrote: Okay, Matt Wilder I like! Fred becky will OBVIOUSLY make the list. Indeed all of the ones on the wiki list will be on it. Let's get some names that aren't on it down! Come on - who developed all your local crags? Who put up the testpieces you aspire to climb in your state? Post 'em UP! Stegg, Shannon, The Epitome of the southern hardman. He put up almost every route at Tallulah, and half of the routes at Laurel Knob, including the only 5.12s. In that case we probably can't overlook Arno Ilgner or Rob Robinson either. Agreed. Can you guys give me little snippets like I have on the list? Preferably with where they're from/operated and when. together with Forrest Gardner they discovered and opened T-Wall. That do ya? DMT Well, it's a start. T-wall is badass, but I was hoping for a little back story to each person. E.G. "John Langsdon is a pretentions spray-bot that is known for climbing trad harder then he had* ever climbed sport. He did lots of gnarly offwidths in CO, UT, and WY, but then moved to Bermuda where he now sprays at the climbing wall for a living and does all the hardest routes in the area, except when dave macleod comes to town and puts up a V13. He met dave." Do you pay by the word, or by post? DMT
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moose_droppings
May 16, 2010, 10:23 PM
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sungam wrote: moose_droppings wrote: Herb and Jan Conn Info about them please?
Herb and Jan were the ultimate pioneers of climbing in the Black Hills. From the late 1940's through the 1950's they established over 200 FA's on needles, spires and formations in the hills. They maintained strong free climbing ethics on all of their climbs. Sometime in the late 50's they were hired by the Parks Service to explore and map miles and miles of Jewel Cave (second longest in the world), and continued there into the 70's. Even with today's equipment, many of their routes are very bold.
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malcolm777b
May 17, 2010, 5:03 AM
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We're missing some important names here.
Reinhold Messner
John Salathe
Warren Harding
Gaston Rebuffat (who else is bad ass enough to have a climbing move named after them?)
Jeff Lowe
Alan Watts
Ron Kauk
Ray Jardine
Werner Braun
Jim Bridwell
Sir Edmund Hillary
Tommy Caldwell
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Shane769
May 20, 2010, 4:51 PM
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Registered: May 7, 2010
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malcolm777b wrote: We're missing some important names here. Tommy Caldwell
Ammon McNeely
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irregularpanda
May 20, 2010, 5:07 PM
Post #50 of 54
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malcolm777b wrote: We're missing some important names here. Reinhold Messner John Salathe Warren Harding Gaston Rebuffat (who else is bad ass enough to have a climbing move named after them?) Jeff Lowe Alan Watts Ron Kauk Ray Jardine Werner Braun Jim Bridwell Sir Edmund Hillary Tommy Caldwell
Some other obvious gaps.
Sonnie Trotter
Dave Mcloed (sp?)
Wolfgang Gullich
Steve House
The Leather pants wearing brothers who speed climb el-cap. Can't remember their names.
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onceahardman
May 23, 2010, 1:26 AM
Post #51 of 54
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John Turner
Hidetaka Suzuki
John Bouchard
TM Herbert
Jim Bridwell
Layton Kor
Dougal Haston
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I_do
May 23, 2010, 9:18 PM
Post #52 of 54
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Registered: Mar 2, 2008
Posts: 1232
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irregularpanda wrote: malcolm777b wrote: We're missing some important names here. Reinhold Messner John Salathe Warren Harding Gaston Rebuffat (who else is bad ass enough to have a climbing move named after them?) Jeff Lowe Alan Watts Ron Kauk Ray Jardine Werner Braun Jim Bridwell Sir Edmund Hillary Tommy Caldwell Some other obvious gaps. Sonnie Trotter Dave Mcloed (sp?) Wolfgang Gullich Steve House The Leather pants wearing brothers who speed climb el-cap. Can't remember their names.
That would be the Hubers, sport hard enough that it took 10 years or so before ondra repeated them, first ascents on baffin 5.14 free solo's alpine shizz that'll chill your bones and their balls are easy to cup because of high viz leather pants.
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rangerrob
May 27, 2010, 3:50 PM
Post #53 of 54
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Registered: Apr 8, 2003
Posts: 641
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Renato cassarato
Soloing stuff in the 70's, and 80's that would make most climbers heads spin today. The Cassarato Pillar on Fitzroy is named after him. He died attempting to solo the Magic Line on K2 in 1986 if I'm not mistaken.
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irregularpanda
May 27, 2010, 4:20 PM
Post #54 of 54
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Registered: Mar 13, 2007
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I_do wrote: irregularpanda wrote: malcolm777b wrote: We're missing some important names here. Reinhold Messner John Salathe Warren Harding Gaston Rebuffat (who else is bad ass enough to have a climbing move named after them?) Jeff Lowe Alan Watts Ron Kauk Ray Jardine Werner Braun Jim Bridwell Sir Edmund Hillary Tommy Caldwell Some other obvious gaps. Sonnie Trotter Dave Mcloed (sp?) Wolfgang Gullich Steve House The Leather pants wearing brothers who speed climb el-cap. Can't remember their names. That would be the Hubers, sport hard enough that it took 10 years or so before ondra repeated them, first ascents on baffin 5.14 free solo's alpine shizz that'll chill your bones and their balls are easy to cup because of high viz leather pants.
Yeah, those tools. *swoon* I wonder what kind of conditioner they use.
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