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sittingduck
Jun 21, 2010, 3:46 PM
Post #51 of 52
(1014 views)
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Registered: Aug 19, 2003
Posts: 338
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j_ung wrote: tradmanclimbs wrote: Useing the rope to build the anchor is all good untill your partner chickens out of the next lead. then it sucks total dog snot Often on multi pitch i lead every pitch so it's a no brainer to use a diferent system than the rope. With some rope-made anchors, it's far easier to lead in blocks than you think. Take, for example, this one: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...post=2350584#2350584. Atomic-clip-style anchors, like the three-loop 8, are also pretty easy. Careful, members might get caught in a loop forever when you are posting a link to the same thread that you are posting to.
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tradmanclimbs
Jun 21, 2010, 10:57 PM
Post #52 of 52
(976 views)
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Registered: Apr 24, 2003
Posts: 2599
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My system rocks for leading in blocks and It generaly takes me about 90 seconds to get squared away at a gear anchor unless the pro is just horrible.. I do actually use the rope as part of the anchor if i need a 3rd piece. If i have 2 bomber pieces its my trusty 4ft NYLON runner with pre tied limiter knotts. Super fast, super equalizeing, super easy. done deal when most other folks are still wankin arround unwrapping their cordelete of building some gizmo with 4 meters of rope.
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