climbingbums
Nov 23, 2003, 11:02 PM
Post #51 of 51
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Registered: Nov 18, 2003
Posts: 117
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If I am not good enough to complete a climb, I either work on it, forget about it temporarily until I get more experience, or simply never do the climb. It is truly disgraceful to climbers not to have this mentality, and instead resort to chipping or comfortizing holds. If you suck too bad to do a climb, leave it alone and allow it to possibly be a beautiful, difficult natural line for better climbers. I have been there and climbed on the chipped holds, and I believe that the magazine may have been right. and the chipping and disgrace of the "outdoor gym" was not the only thing that contributed to the addition to list, I imagine it's because it really is like roped bouldering, somewhat poor rock quality, and the fact that most of the cruxes are less than 10 feet off the deck. Also the bolting of easily naturally protectable cracks may have had an impact. I have to say, I have climbed at a majority of the places listed in the magazine, including Alaska, and I believe that the magazine wasn't far off from the truth.
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