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Gmburns2000
Oct 6, 2010, 3:04 PM
Post #126 of 134
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Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15266
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boymeetsrock wrote: MS1 wrote: hugepedro wrote: jt512 wrote: hugepedro wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: hugepedro wrote: I can't decide if this site would be more or less interesting without a bunch of pussies whining about Jay all the time. Christ people, what happened to the good old days when climbers used to just tell each other to fuck off and it was all good? fuck off jt512 wrote: So, please, just shut the fuck up That's what I'm talkin bout! I do what I can. Fuck you. At a time like this, it is well worth revisiting the classics: http://www.youtube.com/...ature=related#t=1m4sYes,  fuck you too ! ** waves good day**
can't forget this classic either
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AntinJ
Oct 6, 2010, 6:36 PM
Post #127 of 134
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Registered: Aug 4, 2008
Posts: 475
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It's funny how it's easy to draw parallels when events occur:
Accidents in North American Mountaineering 1995. Vol. 48. Golden, Colo. : Banff: American Alpine Club, Alpine Club of Canada., 1994. Print.
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iknowfear
Sep 30, 2012, 8:41 PM
Post #128 of 134
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Registered: Sep 8, 2004
Posts: 670
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there has been a fatality in switzerland which was likely due to a sharp-edged fixed biner that cut the rope after a fall (this is preliminary, the official report is not out yet).
in german:
http://mdettling.blogspot.ch/...aber-gefahrlich.html
(note to add:
- the biner in the picture is one of a ground fall in a Prague climbing hall, and not from this climb
- the severed rope is from the Black Diamond tests)
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climb2core
Nov 16, 2012, 1:12 PM
Post #129 of 134
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Registered: Nov 16, 2012
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We are starting an initiative to reduce mank gear in the Red. Please check out our FB page at if you ever climb at the Red River Gorge:
https://www.facebook.com/RrgFixedGearEthicsInitiative
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shotwell
Nov 20, 2012, 6:24 PM
Post #131 of 134
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Registered: Jan 6, 2009
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ilikepargo wrote: iron106 wrote: I don't think the groove was actually that bad. I think the only problem was the sharpness of the groove. Worn biners are usually stronger than new ones.Yup. I also find that my rope is stronger if I cut it halfway through before I climb. I also cut halfway through my harness and through the dogbones on all my quickdraws. Then, just before I climb, I usually take a big rock and crack my own head with it a couple of times, so that I'm halfway to a really good concussion. That makes me a better, smarter climber. 
Have you read the relevant Black Diamond article? Pretty sure it suggests that a moderate rope groove actually does result in a biner that pull tests slightly above a new biner. Pretty sure this is simply because the rope groove keeps the rope aligned with the spine. This may be wrong; I haven't read the article in a couple of years.
That being said, worn carabiners are a real problem. Clearly not something to mess around with and should be retired because they can be quite sharp. I keep one sharp enough to cut me on my pack to remind me of this. It was the lone lower off point for a sport route.
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mojomonkey
Nov 20, 2012, 6:26 PM
Post #132 of 134
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Registered: Aug 13, 2006
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ilikepargo wrote: iron106 wrote: I don't think the groove was actually that bad. I think the only problem was the sharpness of the groove. Worn biners are usually stronger than new ones.Yup. I also find that my rope is stronger if I cut it halfway through before I climb. I also cut halfway through my harness and through the dogbones on all my quickdraws. Then, just before I climb, I usually take a big rock and crack my own head with it a couple of times, so that I'm halfway to a really good concussion. That makes me a better, smarter climber.
Do you realize you are jumping in on a point that was sorted out a few posts below the one you quoted, just over two years ago. Maybe ease up on the rocks to the head?
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ilikepargo
Nov 21, 2012, 12:34 AM
Post #134 of 134
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Registered: May 20, 2008
Posts: 133
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mojomonkey wrote: ilikepargo wrote: iron106 wrote: I don't think the groove was actually that bad. I think the only problem was the sharpness of the groove. Worn biners are usually stronger than new ones.Yup. I also find that my rope is stronger if I cut it halfway through before I climb. I also cut halfway through my harness and through the dogbones on all my quickdraws. Then, just before I climb, I usually take a big rock and crack my own head with it a couple of times, so that I'm halfway to a really good concussion. That makes me a better, smarter climber. Do you realize you are jumping in on a point that was sorted out a few posts below the one you quoted, just over two years ago. Maybe ease up on the rocks to the head?
Yes, I realize that. I was having a bit of fun at the expense of an absurd and pointless comment. You've heard of fun, right?
(Beyond the semantic issue of what is/isn't "strong", the incident was not caused by the 'biner being weak. It was caused by the 'biner being sharp.)
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