|
aquadood
Dec 10, 2010, 8:56 PM
Post #1 of 32
(19159 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 6, 2009
Posts: 37
|
I figured this would be most appropriate in this forum due to its advanced nature.
1. What do you use to carry / feed the rope. Just a backpack, a special ropebag, or something else?
2. Are you using a GriGri, Soloist, Silent Partner, or other?
3. When you're out rope-soloing are you more often freeclimbing or aid climbing?
4. Have you fallen while rope-soloing and if so, did everything operate as it was intended?
|
|
|
|
|
csproul
Dec 10, 2010, 9:05 PM
Post #2 of 32
(19149 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1769
|
aquadood wrote: I figured this would be most appropriate in this forum due to its advanced nature. 1. What do you use to carry / feed the rope. Just a backpack, a special ropebag, or something else? 2. Are you using a GriGri, Soloist, Silent Partner, or other? 3. When you're out rope-soloing are you more often freeclimbing or aid climbing? 4. Have you fallen while rope-soloing and if so, did everything operate as it was intended?
I'm certainly not an expert, but here is the system that I've been using:
1) On multi-pitch, I use a rope bag and hang it at the anchor and let it feed out to me (anchor->me->back down into the rope bag)
2) I use a Soloist
3) I have mostly used it free-climbing, but have recently been using it to learn aid.
4) No, I have not taken a real fall on it.
|
|
|
|
|
sf
Dec 10, 2010, 9:15 PM
Post #3 of 32
(19120 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 28, 2003
Posts: 60
|
1. I usually trail loops girth-hitched to biners on my harness. This minimizes drag by reducing weight on the belay device. Plus, it serves as a backup.
2. Silent Partner
3. Free (mostly)
4. I have whipped while rope soloing and the device locked up as intended.
I use double mini-traxions to second.
(This post was edited by sf on Dec 10, 2010, 9:23 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
moose_droppings
Dec 10, 2010, 9:47 PM
Post #4 of 32
(19095 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 3371
|
1. I use a small cheap backpack that the rope gets flaked into and left at the belay to feed out. Tie a BF knot in the free end of your rope.
2. Roped soloing i use a Soloist with a chest harness per instructions for free and aid. If I could find a cheap RE Solo Aid I'd like to try it for aiding solo.
3. Free 75%/ aid 25%
4.I've taken several falls while roped soling free and aid climbing and all have been caught without incident.
Find what works for you and your comfort zone and have everything dialed in to the max under controlled circumstances before you venture out on your own. Learn to check, double and triple check your entire system by yourself. No one is above making errors or incurring just plain old bad luck, so stack the deck the best you can in your favor.
(This post was edited by moose_droppings on Dec 11, 2010, 4:43 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
sherpa79
Dec 11, 2010, 12:14 AM
Post #5 of 32
(19061 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 15, 2004
Posts: 108
|
aquadood wrote: I figured this would be most appropriate in this forum due to its advanced nature. 1. What do you use to carry / feed the rope. Just a backpack, a special ropebag, or something else? 2. Are you using a GriGri, Soloist, Silent Partner, or other? 3. When you're out rope-soloing are you more often freeclimbing or aid climbing? 4. Have you fallen while rope-soloing and if so, did everything operate as it was intended?
1. Usually just the bag I used to carry the stuff to the climb
2. Gri Gri
3. I've only ever soloed on aid.
4. Not extensively, but yes.
|
|
|
|
|
potreroed
Dec 11, 2010, 3:31 AM
Post #6 of 32
(19025 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 30, 2001
Posts: 1454
|
I use a bucket-type rope bag and a Soloist. Lately mostly aid climbing but have done lots of free climbing also. A few short falls, nothing big or serious.
|
|
|
|
|
uni_jim
Dec 11, 2010, 6:46 AM
Post #7 of 32
(18991 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 27, 2008
Posts: 429
|
1. flake on ground, or in a stuff sack
2. Soloist
3. 50/50 free and aid
4. Many falls, many takes, the system works
|
|
|
|
|
jaablink
Dec 11, 2010, 1:09 PM
Post #8 of 32
(18967 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 1, 2004
Posts: 537
|
Pack in with the rope Strapped to the outside of a small pack. A 1.5 pound rubber coated steel weight gets attached to the bottom of the rope
1 Mini traxion
Free
Many many many times. I am still here.
|
|
|
|
|
xtrmecat
Dec 11, 2010, 5:17 PM
Post #9 of 32
(18906 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 1, 2004
Posts: 548
|
1. Aid, or big free stuff- I use a Fish Snake Charmer, works like a dream when two ropes need to go. Free, I either use a rope tarp(single pitch), and/or stack the rope with progressively shorter coils in a shoulder length sling.
2. Soloist, with a backup knott down the nonworking strand, at a max length I am willing to fall should it be upside down.
3.Most miles are free, and about 50% of my aid is solo.
4. Device works perfectly on falls, however have one mega fall that I went to the backup, with extenuating circumstances.
Burly Bob
edit due to third grade spelling error.
(This post was edited by xtrmecat on Dec 12, 2010, 5:11 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
TarHeelEMT
Dec 11, 2010, 10:08 PM
Post #10 of 32
(18852 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 20, 2009
Posts: 724
|
Is the soloist a significant improvement from the grigri for aid solo?
|
|
|
|
|
bill413
Dec 12, 2010, 12:23 AM
Post #11 of 32
(18822 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674
|
xtrmecat wrote: 2. Soloist, with a backup know down the nonworking strand, at a max length I am willing to fall should it be upside down. 4. Device works perfectly on falls, however have one mega fall that I went to the backup, with extenuating circumstances.
Because the backup is important.
|
|
|
|
|
csproul
Dec 12, 2010, 3:03 AM
Post #12 of 32
(18792 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1769
|
TarHeelEMT wrote: Is the soloist a significant improvement from the grigri for aid solo?
|
|
|
|
|
potreroed
Dec 12, 2010, 5:08 AM
Post #13 of 32
(18773 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 30, 2001
Posts: 1454
|
TarHeelEMT wrote: Is the soloist a significant improvement from the grigri for aid solo?
Yes. With the gri-gri it's hard to control the amount of rope slipping through it when you're concentrating on all the other stuff you're doing. I MUCH prefer the Soloist.
|
|
|
|
|
healyje
Dec 12, 2010, 10:35 AM
Post #14 of 32
(18743 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204
|
Are you talking aid soloing or free lead rope-soloing?
|
|
|
|
|
xtrmecat
Dec 12, 2010, 5:21 PM
Post #15 of 32
(18715 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 1, 2004
Posts: 548
|
TarHeel, in my opinion to your question, YES.
Two reasons, the feed issue as mentioned upthread, and also the attachment to you. The gri-gri uses a biner for attachment, and if you take one and put it in a rugged biner, move it down the spine and then put side pressure on it you will see that it will bind, and give the right kind of force on the attachment tabs to bend or break them off, egads, the horror. This binding has some using various methods and biners to mitigate the issue, but why bother when the cost is the same as the soloist.
The soloist uses the cord tie in, which can only fail should you fail to tie in correctly, which is where I would want the responsibility of an issue to fall, something I can control. Bomber.
The head first nonlocking issue is real, but having experienced quite a number of years on mine on lead, at or just beyond my ability, I still see it as a good partner. I would go so far as to say, all solo methods should include a backup on the nonworking strand, always.
Burly Bob
|
|
|
|
|
yetanotherdave
Dec 13, 2010, 4:26 AM
Post #16 of 32
(18677 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 19, 2005
Posts: 243
|
1. What do you use to carry / feed the rope. Just a backpack, a special ropebag, or something else?
- fish snake charmer.
2. Are you using a GriGri, Soloist, Silent Partner, or other?
- Silent Partner
3. When you're out rope-soloing are you more often freeclimbing or aid climbing?
- both, but if I'm rope soloing there's at least some aid, otherwise I could probably find a partner :)
4. Have you fallen while rope-soloing and if so, did everything operate as it was intended?
- yes, several times, including one 60+ footer that I'm pretty sure I made longer by mismanaging the slack in the rope. Beyond that bit of pilot error, everything worked fine. Always use backup knots.
|
|
|
|
|
aquadood
Dec 13, 2010, 6:30 AM
Post #17 of 32
(18656 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 6, 2009
Posts: 37
|
Great responses. Thank you. For backup knots do you mean knots in the non-working end of the rope that will jam into the belay device or a knot tied in to your harness?
Also, if free climbing, how do you undo these knots when you cannot free both hands?
|
|
|
|
|
healyje
Dec 13, 2010, 10:05 AM
Post #18 of 32
(18643 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204
|
aquadood wrote: Also, if free climbing, how do you undo these knots when you cannot free both hands?
I personally consider aid and free climbing to have radically different requirements for roped soloing and approach them quite differently with respect to system, rope management, and solo device. Almost hard to think of them as remotely similar activities, particularly from a roped-soloing perspective.
|
|
|
|
|
coastal_climber
Dec 13, 2010, 4:27 PM
Post #19 of 32
(18610 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 17, 2006
Posts: 2542
|
aquadood wrote: For backup knots do you mean knots in the non-working end of the rope that will jam into the belay device or a knot tied in to your harness?
Either or.
aquadood wrote: Also, if free climbing, how do you undo these knots when you cannot free both hands?
You can tie the figure 8 loosely, or stop climbing for a sec.
|
|
|
|
|
DangerGir1
Dec 13, 2010, 4:55 PM
Post #20 of 32
(18603 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 13, 2009
Posts: 24
|
Where do you find set up diagrams for rope-solo?
|
|
|
|
|
moose_droppings
Dec 13, 2010, 6:43 PM
Post #21 of 32
(18578 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 3371
|
DangerGir1 wrote: Where do you find set up diagrams for rope-solo?
kenr? Is that you?
|
|
|
|
|
boymeetsrock
Dec 13, 2010, 6:53 PM
Post #22 of 32
(18571 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 11, 2005
Posts: 1709
|
1) So far i stack it on the ground. I would like to move to a back pack to avoid the weight of rope issues as I climb higher.
2) Silent Partner
3) Free climbing
4) No, not yet.
|
|
|
|
|
DangerGir1
Dec 13, 2010, 11:31 PM
Post #23 of 32
(18544 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 13, 2009
Posts: 24
|
In reply to: kenr? Is that you?
nope
I keep thinking that I need to learn to rope solo because partners are hard to find.
|
|
|
|
|
coastal_climber
Dec 13, 2010, 11:56 PM
Post #24 of 32
(18537 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 17, 2006
Posts: 2542
|
DangerGir1 wrote: In reply to: kenr? Is that you? nope I keep thinking that I need to learn to rope solo because partners are hard to find.
If your going to start soloing, do aiding because then you can actually push grades, not have to dick around freeing some 5.9
|
|
|
|
|
DangerGir1
Dec 17, 2010, 3:08 AM
Post #25 of 32
(18427 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 13, 2009
Posts: 24
|
Solo aid and rope solo for free climbing should have vary similar or the same set up. I just have never see it done nor found a book with the directions on the best way to rope up.
|
|
|
|
|
vinnie83
Dec 17, 2010, 5:05 AM
Post #26 of 32
(3105 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 28, 2004
Posts: 112
|
1. ropebag/stuff sack at the anchor- fish has some ropebags that are perfect for this
2. unmodified Gri Gri (aid and walls with a little free climbing) and Silent Partner (just free climbing, but it really just collects dust now as I would prefer to free solo easier stuff than rope solo on a free climb)
3. have done a lot of both, but rarely rope solo free climbs anymore
4. a few times on a gri gri, everything worked fine
|
|
|
|
|
healyje
Dec 17, 2010, 5:33 AM
Post #27 of 32
(3100 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204
|
DangerGir1 wrote: Solo aid and rope solo for free climbing should have vary similar or the same set up. I just have never see it done nor found a book with the directions on the best way to rope up.
I know on the surface it might seem that way, but in practice nothing could be further from the truth. You can get in the ballpark of that idea if you use the Silent Partner, but for free, lead roped-soloing and aid soloing I use entirely different setups. For lead roped-soloing I stack the rope in a small backpack and use an Edelrid Eddy for the solo device; for aid soloing I use an unmodified grigri on a mallion rapide and stack the rope in a rope bucket at the anchor. Very different deals, mainly because I'm moving fast when I'm free climbing and slow when I'm aiding. Beyond that you end up with entirely different sets of rope management and handling requirements.
There are lots of opinions on the matter - many tightly coupled to the device of choice - but mine do come from 35 years of free, lead roped soloing. That constitutes about 50% of my climbing and almost all on multi-pitch and generally in old school 5.9-510c range, running into a several hundred pitches a year with the system I've come to use.
But that doesn't mean the system I use will necessarily work for you, only that it works for me. Canadian Stéphane Perron free roped-soloed Astroman and Freerider with a Soloist which I very much dislike. And hell, 'OldSalt' who posts here invented his own soloing device after not liking any of the ones currently available. In the end, the essence of roped soloing is sorting out what works for you and dialing that in so you don't have to think about, or focus on, the mechanics of it or the fact that you're alone so you can just climb.
You can tell you're getting it down when it takes you about 3/4 to 2/3 of the time of a party of two to do any given multi-pitch line. Getting there takes years of dialing, head-work, and in the end - lots of yardage over stone sorting it all out.
(This post was edited by healyje on Dec 17, 2010, 3:17 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
kristoffer
Dec 25, 2010, 4:17 AM
Post #28 of 32
(2974 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 1, 2005
Posts: 55
|
I highly suggest you rig your gri-gri and back up knot system through a chest harness to create a more favorable center of gravity if you do make that plunge.
|
|
|
|
|
MomentSurf
Dec 25, 2010, 5:19 PM
Post #29 of 32
(2947 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 25, 2010
Posts: 13
|
How do all these devices work if you want to lower yourself 3/4 up a climb?
I'm assuming you would have to know how to switch over to a repel device.
Does the GriGri allow you to repel 'as is'?
Do any of the devices allow you to repel 'as is'?
Thanks
|
|
|
|
|
moose_droppings
Dec 25, 2010, 6:01 PM
Post #30 of 32
(2940 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 3371
|
MomentSurf wrote: How do all these devices work if you want to lower yourself 3/4 up a climb? I'm assuming you would have to know how to switch over to a repel device. Does the GriGri allow you to repel 'as is'? Do any of the devices allow you to repel 'as is'? Thanks
Lower yourself to where, 1/4 of the ropes length back down?
If your 3/4's up and your intention is to retreat, then you can either down climb, down aid or build enough of an anchor to rap off of and plan on leaving some gear.
You could lower yourself back to the halfway point (leaving gear) and then do any of the above.
A Soloist can be rigged to rap, or you can use a different device or a munter.
Edit for link;
Here's a link in PDF format for the instructions on a Soloist.
(This post was edited by moose_droppings on Dec 25, 2010, 6:06 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
MomentSurf
Dec 25, 2010, 6:22 PM
Post #31 of 32
(2931 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 25, 2010
Posts: 13
|
I'm sorry...I was referring to TR soloing. I've been planning on starting to do a bit of TR soloing. Trying to decide on a device (so many threads and so many opinions!!). I would use back-up knots (butterflies) on the non working half.
As for my main device, it seems that it’s a bit of a process to get a normal solo device to 'unlock' after a fall. With a gri-gri, you could belay yourself down (either to the bottom or to a better starting point) after a fall with ease (no changing device, no building prusiks or using other devices to un-weight the rope ect). Unless I’m missing something (I have never used a gri-gri, that’s why I’m asking the question).
Thanks.
|
|
|
|
|
healyje
Dec 25, 2010, 8:14 PM
Post #32 of 32
(2919 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204
|
It's real important to be clear about what you have in mind when talking about soloing - TR soloing, aid soloing, or lead roped-soloing. They are very different affairs and need to be referenced in context to minimize confusion in conversations.
In the case of 'TR soloing' here are lots of threads here and on Supertopo.com if you punch in that phrase into the search function or google.
|
|
|
|
|
|
