My post today is for information to help other climbers learn what I have from my accident.
On December 22nd 2010, me and my wife (Kylie)
Were climbing at our favorite crag, Horseshoe canyon ranch just outside Jasper AR. if you have never been you really need to go.

The day was going great I was still in my warm up around noon. I was going to lead a route called frankenberry (5.9+) then we were going to eat lunch.
The route was about 60ft tall with 6 bolts. The crux was just under the 3rd bolt with a small technical roof. I made it to the the third bolt. The bolt was right at the top of the roof, to the clip in I had to get above the 3rd bolt and reach down the clip. And everyone any time you have to go above your bolt it starts to get more and more dangerous. Unfortunately, out of habit I said clipping, like I always do, and Kylie gave me slack like she always does so that I can clip in. but this time I didn’t need slack because I was above the bolt. And this point I have the slack from the 2nd bolt to the 3rd bolt. Then the slack about 2ft above the 3rd bolt, and the slack my belayer gave for to clip in with. TOO MUCH SLACK!!! On my way to clip with my left hand my hand slipped. I fell....and fell so more. At the bottom there was a bolder shaped like a rectangle about 4ft long 2ft wide and 2ft tall. About 2 feet above that bolder Kylie stared to catch me like she should, but due to too much slack, it was too late. Mid way through the stretch of the rope I hit the bolder heels first and then the rope snapped tight.

With Kylie in the air (because I weigh more) I hung looking into the sky screaming for help (with a few choice words). Luckily 3 climbers came to our rescue and helped Kylie down slowly so to not to hurt me anymore. And trust me I was hurting.

my first though was that broke my back, but after lying there for about ten minutes I set up and realized my heels hurt more than anything. So I put my shoes on and we packed up the gear and walked out. We went straight to the hospital. I ended up breaking the top-outside of my right foot. And on my left, the left ankle and cracked my left heal. Let’s not forget about the bruises on the bottom side of both my feet and my back that hurts like none other.

The point of the post is to inform other climbers to be aware of how much slack you do have out. And that is both the climber’s job and the belayer’s job as well. Me and Kylie are both taking the blame for the injury. We are a team and we must be aware at all times to insure each others safty. I hope that this post will help some in the future.

I would also like to that the three climbers for coming to help and for climbing up to get my gear. Thank you very much.

yea thats pretty much it. i wasn't focused and i payed the price. the post wasn't about me it was to help others learn what i have learned the hard way. even the smallest mistakes have there consequences.

not clear what the hell you were doing and how you ended up with so much slack but I assume you were climbing with the climber's autopilot on and took too many unnecessary risk without calculating "what if"

you are lucky that you are alive

Go book a Alaskan cruise ship and take your wife on a trip for saving your life.

yea thats pretty much it. i wasn't focused and i payed the price. the post wasn't about me it was to help others learn what i have learned the hard way. even the smallest mistakes have there consequences.

in climbing, there is no such thing as "small mistake" and every mistake has a potential of putting you six feet under dirt. seriously, if you you ended up in a wheelchair for the next 50 years, can you imagine what your wife had to deal with ?


Go book a Alaskan cruise ship and take your wife on a trip for saving your life.

I’m not sure why you have so much hostility towards me and why you feel the need to contadick me. I know that rock climbing is dangerous and any mistake can kill. I’m sorry If the post made me sound as if I wasn’t extremely grateful that my wife saved my life. But that’s between me and wife. And again I think you are missing the point of the post. It was just for information. I know what I did wrong and don’t need to be ridiculed for it. I really dont want to start anything please.

I’m not sure why you have so much hostility towards me and why you feel the need to contadick me. I know that rock climbing is dangerous and any mistake can kill. I’m sorry If the post made me sound as if I wasn’t extremely grateful that my wife saved my life. But that’s between me and wife. And again I think you are missing the point of the post. It was just for information. I know what I did wrong and don’t need to be ridiculed for it. I really dont want to start anything please.

climb a 5.8 lead yet majid?

no, i need to buy some gear so what do you recommend ?

My post today is for information to help other climbers learn what I have from my accident.
On December 22nd 2010, me and my wife (Kylie)
Were climbing at our favorite crag, Horseshoe canyon ranch just outside Jasper AR. if you have never been you really need to go.

The day was going great I was still in my warm up around noon. I was going to lead a route called frankenberry (5.9+) then we were going to eat lunch.
The route was about 60ft tall with 6 bolts. The crux was just under the 3rd bolt with a small technical roof. I made it to the the third bolt. The bolt was right at the top of the roof, to the clip in I had to get above the 3rd bolt and reach down the clip. And everyone knows, any time you have to go above your bolt it starts to get more and more dangerous. Unfortunately, out of habit I said clipping, like I always do, and Kylie gave me slack like she always does so that I can clip in. but this time I didn’t need slack because I was above the bolt. And this point I have the slack from the 2nd bolt to the 3rd bolt. Then the slack about 2ft above the 3rd bolt, and the slack my belayer gave for to clip in with. TOO MUCH SLACK!!! On my way to clip with my left hand my hand slipped. I fell....and fell so more. At the bottom there was a bolder shaped like a rectangle about 4ft long 2ft wide and 2ft tall. About 2 feet above that bolder Kylie stared to catch me like she should, but due to too much slack, it was too late. Mid way through the stretch of the rope I hit the bolder heels first and then the rope snapped tight.

With Kylie in the air (because I weigh more) I hung looking into the sky screaming for help (with a few choice words). Luckily 3 climbers came to our rescue and helped Kylie down slowly so to not to hurt me anymore. And trust me I was hurting.

my first though was that broke my back, but after lying there for about ten minutes I set up and realized my heels hurt more than anything. So I put my shoes on and we packed up the gear and walked out. We went straight to the hospital. I ended up breaking the top-outside of my right foot. And on my left, the left ankle and cracked my left heal. Let’s not forget about the bruises on the bottom side of both my feet and my back that hurts like none other.

The point of the post is to inform other climbers to be aware of how much slack you do have out. And that is both the climber’s job and the belayer’s job as well. Me and Kylie are both taking the blame for the injury. We are a team and we must be aware at all times to insure each others safty. I hope that this post will help some in the future.

I would also like to thank the three climbers for coming to help and for climbing up to get my gear. Thank you very much.

Don't focus too much on majid's messages. I see them as more for unattached others who are reading from their armchairs. Injuries like yours make a lasting impression on the injured and on those close to them. I know.

Bill L

stop hijacking this thread and start another one then we talk more.

And anyone who learned anything from this post... you should probably go seek professional instruction. You can't learn this stuff from the internet.

And anyone who learned anything from this post... you should probably go seek professional instruction. You can't learn this stuff from the internet.

Climbing has a long history of learning from other than professional instruction. And I would not be surprised if most users on RC.com have less than 1 day of professional instruction per 100 days of climbing.

Learning on the internet has its limitations; still, I count it as one of a number of sometimes useful references. Via the internet about six months ago, I learned of the Petzl String problem when used on open slings. I have not yet heard of it from a professional nor read about it in a published book.

The internet can be great, but these mistakes are elementary. This wasn't a case of not paying attention or some freak accident. This happened because a two people were clearly practicing bad technique. Automatically yelling "clipping" whenever you get to a bolt and the belayer automatically paying out a certain amount of slack only keeps people from learning how to belay properly.

And Petzl puts out a publication every year detailing all of their gear. They clearly explain, with diagrams, why a Petzl String in not to be used with a sewn sling, and only with a Spirit Dogbone. Most gear shops give them away... for free.

You're right. I should have said "qualified" or "experienced" instead of "professional."

The internet can be great, but these mistakes are elementary. This wasn't a case of not paying attention or some freak accident. This happened because a two people were clearly practicing bad technique. Automatically yelling "clipping" whenever you get to a bolt and the belayer automatically paying out a certain amount of slack only keeps people from learning how to belay properly.

yes

My post today is for information to help other climbers learn what I have from my accident.
On December 22nd 2010, me and my wife (Kylie)
Were climbing at our favorite crag, Horseshoe canyon ranch just outside Jasper AR. if you have never been you really need to go.

The day was going great I was still in my warm up around noon. I was going to lead a route called frankenberry (5.9+) then we were going to eat lunch.
The route was about 60ft tall with 6 bolts. The crux was just under the 3rd bolt with a small technical roof. I made it to the the third bolt. The bolt was right at the top of the roof, to the clip in I had to get above the 3rd bolt and reach down the clip. And everyone knows, any time you have to go above your bolt it starts to get more and more dangerous. Unfortunately, out of habit I said clipping, like I always do, and Kylie gave me slack like she always does so that I can clip in. but this time I didn’t need slack because I was above the bolt. And this point I have the slack from the 2nd bolt to the 3rd bolt. Then the slack about 2ft above the 3rd bolt, and the slack my belayer gave for to clip in with. TOO MUCH SLACK!!! On my way to clip with my left hand my hand slipped. I fell....and fell so more. At the bottom there was a bolder shaped like a rectangle about 4ft long 2ft wide and 2ft tall. About 2 feet above that bolder Kylie stared to catch me like she should, but due to too much slack, it was too late. Mid way through the stretch of the rope I hit the bolder heels first and then the rope snapped tight.

With Kylie in the air (because I weigh more) I hung looking into the sky screaming for help (with a few choice words). Luckily 3 climbers came to our rescue and helped Kylie down slowly so to not to hurt me anymore. And trust me I was hurting.

my first though was that broke my back, but after lying there for about ten minutes I set up and realized my heels hurt more than anything. So I put my shoes on and we packed up the gear and walked out. We went straight to the hospital. I ended up breaking the top-outside of my right foot. And on my left, the left ankle and cracked my left heal. Let’s not forget about the bruises on the bottom side of both my feet and my back that hurts like none other.

The point of the post is to inform other climbers to be aware of how much slack you do have out. And that is both the climber’s job and the belayer’s job as well. Me and Kylie are both taking the blame for the injury. We are a team and we must be aware at all times to insure each others safty. I hope that this post will help some in the future.

I would also like to thank the three climbers for coming to help and for climbing up to get my gear. Thank you very much.

It would be nice if those who, like you, are willing to expose their lapses, could be spared the ad hominem attacks. It seems to be pretty hard to get analysis without some insults mixed in for good measure.

Photo of the route. Note you can match where my right hand is and reach up to the draw and easily clip. The draw is just above the lip of the roof. No criticism here, just pointing out how the route is normally climbed. Some cheat out left around the large block. Done that way, the route is not a 9+ and you then must reach down to get the clip since you didn't actually climb the roof but approached it by skirting it way left.

Now you have time while you are recovering to figure out what could be done to avoid or lesson injury in the future. I have been reading The rock warriors way and the author in that book says to practice falling on a regulor basis. I know I will follow that advice after hearing your story. May you have a speedy recovery.

I'm not sure where you are going with this. Why do you think taking pratice falls will help avoid this kind of accident/injury?

Boy that one sure got deleted fast didn't it?!

I've hidden some personal attacks in this forum. Please keep it civil in here.

To the OP, I'm glad to see that you have learned from your mistake and it does take courage to put it all out there and share your lessons in this forum. Here's to a speedy recovery.

The bolt was right at the top of the roof, to the clip in I had to get above the 3rd bolt and reach down the clip. And everyone knows, any time you have to go above your bolt it starts to get more and more dangerous.

... in climbing, there is no such thing as "small mistake" and every mistake has a potential of putting you six feet under dirt. seriously ...

I appreciate your post and I wish you a speedy recovery. I think everyone has explained what went wrong. However, I wonder if there was anything that could have been done differently in advance that would have lessened the impact if mistakes like these were made.

If your wife was anchored in would that have been enough for her to catch you? Should that always be the policy when a lighter belayer is belaying a heavier belayer?

I know that the answer is to not make the mistakes. However, we are human, we make mistakes and hopefully we learn from them. I was wondering what can be done to make sure we get a second chance at not making those mistakes.

Always anchoring a smaller belayer down to the ground isn't a good solution, either.

I once saw a climber pull a refrigerator sized block off a single pitch route. It had been attached forever, the climb was fairly popular, and so far as I know, no-one had ever doubted the integrity of that block before that particular freeze-thaw season liberated it from the wall.

The belayer was right in the line of fire, and took off. He was fine, but had he been anchored down, it would have taken a crane to move the block enough to liberate his remains.

GO

2. Not that this happened, but it is important to note that when you are close to the ground you should never give a soft catch because that could mean decking. I always ask my belayer to give me a hard catch (i.e. take in slack, sit down, or whatever to keep me off the ground) until I have clipped the third bolt on many routes.

I didn't think about that. I guess that would be a good reason to not be attached to an anchor.

Or a good reason to anchor somewhere other than directly below the climber.

Or a good reason not to anchor and to belay somewhere other than directly below the climber.

Jay

Why does the possibility of being crushed determine the need for anchoring?

I didn't think about that. I guess that would be a good reason to not be attached to an anchor.

Why is it that climbers say things where they don't need the belayer to take action?

Why issue a statement like clipping instead of using a command like "slack" or "take".

Why say anything if you don't need the belayer to adjust from what they are currently doing?

Do you all discuss your commands with the belayer before you climb? Do you say "The commands I use are "blank" and they mean "blank" when you are climbing with a new partner?

Good question. They shouldn't. Unnecessary communication is just an opportunity for miscommunication.
Jay