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enigma


Jan 30, 2011, 11:37 PM
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Your Favorite Multi-Pitch Climb?
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I enjoy multi-pitch climbs and my favorite and longest was rock-on and then the ultimate everything.
It was 17-18 pitches, from 5. 10a to 5.9. It was a day climb in Squamish. What was your favorite multi-pitch climb?


caughtinside


Jan 30, 2011, 11:52 PM
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Lotta good ones, but I think I'd have to go with Lucky Streaks in tuolumne. 5 or 6 pitches, .10c.


blueeyedclimber


Jan 31, 2011, 12:19 AM
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Too many to list, but a few stick out for different reasons:

Epinepherine, Red Rocks, 5.9
Grand Wall, Squamish, 5.11a
Rock On, Squamish, 5.10a
Children's Crusade, North Conway, NH, 5.11a
Moby Grape, Cannon cliff, NH, 5.8
Fat City Direct, Gunks, 5.10d

and on and on......


Josh


enigma


Jan 31, 2011, 12:29 AM
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caughtinside wrote:
Lotta good ones, but I think I'd have to go with Lucky Streaks in tuolumne. 5 or 6 pitches, .10c.

Tuolumne is a mellow area, I've climbed a few times there and always had a good time.
Is it 10c throughout all the pitches or is it just one 5.10c move on Lucky Streaks?


enigma


Jan 31, 2011, 12:38 AM
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blueeyedclimber wrote:
Too many to list, but a few stick out for different reasons:

Epinepherine, Red Rocks, 5.9
Grand Wall, Squamish, 5.11a
Rock On, Squamish, 5.10a
Children's Crusade, North Conway, NH, 5.11a
Moby Grape, Cannon cliff, NH, 5.8
Fat City Direct, Gunks, 5.10d

and on and on......


Josh

Epinepherine , Quite Fun. There are alot of multi-pitch climbs in Red Rocks that are great.
I haven't been back to the Gunks for a while. Though there are alot of ledges which makes it nice for a break or belay anchor.
Never climbed in New Hampshire, but heard N.Conway is a popular area.
Cool


optic


Jan 31, 2011, 12:56 AM
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enigma wrote:
blueeyedclimber wrote:
Too many to list, but a few stick out for different reasons:

Epinepherine, Red Rocks, 5.9
Grand Wall, Squamish, 5.11a
Rock On, Squamish, 5.10a
Children's Crusade, North Conway, NH, 5.11a
Moby Grape, Cannon cliff, NH, 5.8
Fat City Direct, Gunks, 5.10d

and on and on......


Josh

Epinepherine , Quite Fun. There are alot of multi-pitch climbs in Red Rocks that are great.
I haven't been back to the Gunks for a while. Though there are alot of ledges which makes it nice for a break or belay anchor.
Never climbed in New Hampshire, but heard N.Conway is a popular area.
Cool
New Hampshire is a shit place to climb. Everything is swarming with gumbies and all the rock is crap, short, and crumbly. The winters are harsh, cold, and barely navigable while the summers are short and full of ticks, black flies, mosquitoes, and people who don't belong out of the cities further south. I'm serious, it's a shitty place.


Gmburns2000


Jan 31, 2011, 1:03 AM
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Chrimson Chrysalis
Birdland (RR)
Birdland (Gunks)
Arrow (Gunks)
Ramblin' Rose (S. Platte)

I'm sure there are more, but those are pretty much at the top of the list.


blueeyedclimber


Jan 31, 2011, 1:14 AM
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optic wrote:
enigma wrote:
blueeyedclimber wrote:
Too many to list, but a few stick out for different reasons:

Epinepherine, Red Rocks, 5.9
Grand Wall, Squamish, 5.11a
Rock On, Squamish, 5.10a
Children's Crusade, North Conway, NH, 5.11a
Moby Grape, Cannon cliff, NH, 5.8
Fat City Direct, Gunks, 5.10d

and on and on......


Josh

Epinepherine , Quite Fun. There are alot of multi-pitch climbs in Red Rocks that are great.
I haven't been back to the Gunks for a while. Though there are alot of ledges which makes it nice for a break or belay anchor.
Never climbed in New Hampshire, but heard N.Conway is a popular area.
Cool
New Hampshire is a shit place to climb. Everything is swarming with gumbies and all the rock is crap, short, and crumbly. The winters are harsh, cold, and barely navigable while the summers are short and full of ticks, black flies, mosquitoes, and people who don't belong out of the cities further south. I'm serious, it's a shitty place.

Translation: I am either a NH native trying to keep enigma from visiting or got my ass whooped when I tried to climb there.

Johs


vegastradguy


Jan 31, 2011, 1:33 AM
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Matthes Crest, Tuolomne
Grand Wall, Squamish
Adventure Punks, Red Rock
Serenity/Sons, Yosemite
Fiddler on the Roof, Red Rock

All of these left a huge smile on my face- back up against the wall, i'd probably pick Fiddler above the rest, but it'd be a shame not to mention the others.


guangzhou


Jan 31, 2011, 1:45 AM
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enigma wrote:
I enjoy multi-pitch climbs and my favorite and longest was rock-on and then the ultimate everything.
It was 17-18 pitches, from 5. 10a to 5.9. It was a day climb in Squamish. What was your favorite multi-pitch climb?

Here we go again.


optic


Jan 31, 2011, 1:45 AM
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blueeyedclimber wrote:
optic wrote:
enigma wrote:
blueeyedclimber wrote:
Too many to list, but a few stick out for different reasons:

Epinepherine, Red Rocks, 5.9
Grand Wall, Squamish, 5.11a
Rock On, Squamish, 5.10a
Children's Crusade, North Conway, NH, 5.11a
Moby Grape, Cannon cliff, NH, 5.8
Fat City Direct, Gunks, 5.10d

and on and on......


Josh

Epinepherine , Quite Fun. There are alot of multi-pitch climbs in Red Rocks that are great.
I haven't been back to the Gunks for a while. Though there are alot of ledges which makes it nice for a break or belay anchor.
Never climbed in New Hampshire, but heard N.Conway is a popular area.
Cool
New Hampshire is a shit place to climb. Everything is swarming with gumbies and all the rock is crap, short, and crumbly. The winters are harsh, cold, and barely navigable while the summers are short and full of ticks, black flies, mosquitoes, and people who don't belong out of the cities further south. I'm serious, it's a shitty place.

Translation: I am either a NH native trying to keep enigma from visiting or got my ass whooped when I tried to climb there.

Johs
Translation: I'm one of those pricks from away who doesn't belong there.


gblauer
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Jan 31, 2011, 1:47 AM
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All 23 pitches of TIme Wave Zero, El Potrero Chico


blueeyedclimber


Jan 31, 2011, 1:51 AM
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optic wrote:
blueeyedclimber wrote:
optic wrote:
enigma wrote:
blueeyedclimber wrote:
Too many to list, but a few stick out for different reasons:

Epinepherine, Red Rocks, 5.9
Grand Wall, Squamish, 5.11a
Rock On, Squamish, 5.10a
Children's Crusade, North Conway, NH, 5.11a
Moby Grape, Cannon cliff, NH, 5.8
Fat City Direct, Gunks, 5.10d

and on and on......


Josh

Epinepherine , Quite Fun. There are alot of multi-pitch climbs in Red Rocks that are great.
I haven't been back to the Gunks for a while. Though there are alot of ledges which makes it nice for a break or belay anchor.
Never climbed in New Hampshire, but heard N.Conway is a popular area.
Cool
New Hampshire is a shit place to climb. Everything is swarming with gumbies and all the rock is crap, short, and crumbly. The winters are harsh, cold, and barely navigable while the summers are short and full of ticks, black flies, mosquitoes, and people who don't belong out of the cities further south. I'm serious, it's a shitty place.

Translation: I am either a NH native trying to keep enigma from visiting or got my ass whooped when I tried to climb there.

Johs
Translation: I'm one of those pricks from away who doesn't belong there.

Hehe. From away? Away where? I grew up in NH but moved out. Now I only go back to climb. Tongue


enigma


Jan 31, 2011, 6:22 AM
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vegastradguy wrote:
Matthes Crest, Tuolomne
Grand Wall, Squamish
Adventure Punks, Red Rock
Serenity/Sons, Yosemite
Fiddler on the Roof, Red Rock

All of these left a huge smile on my face- back up against the wall, i'd probably pick Fiddler above the rest, but it'd be a shame not to mention the others.

Smile


enigma


Jan 31, 2011, 6:30 AM
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gblauer wrote:
All 23 pitches of TIme Wave Zero, El Potrero Chico

So how was that? I've never been to El Potrero Chico, How long did it take you? How's the rock? Very Impressive. Is that rated 5.11 or mixed moves? Excellent Accomplishment.
Pictures?


guangzhou


Jan 31, 2011, 6:32 AM
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enigma wrote:
gblauer wrote:
All 23 pitches of TIme Wave Zero, El Potrero Chico

So how was that? I've never been to El Potrero Chico, How long did it take you? How's the rock? Very Impressive. Is that rated 5.11 or mixed moves? Excellent Accomplishment.
Pictures?

Enigma, you still make no sense to me.


enigma


Jan 31, 2011, 6:44 AM
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
Chrimson Chrysalis
Birdland (RR)
Birdland (Gunks)
Arrow (Gunks)
Ramblin' Rose (S. Platte)

I'm sure there are more, but those are pretty much at the top of the list.

Cool


Partner camhead


Jan 31, 2011, 1:09 PM
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I don't do much mutlipitch, so pretty much every route I've done is among the best.

-Sendero Luminoso, Potrero (did not send the entire route, unfortunately)
-Original Route of Rainbow Wall, Red Rocks

Shorter Multipiches:
-Nutcracker (yes, Nutcracker), best moderate multipitch I've ever done.
-Fine Jade, Castle Valley
-Cornflake Crack, Looking Glass Rock


blueeyedclimber


Jan 31, 2011, 1:19 PM
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camhead wrote:
I don't do much mutlipitch, so pretty much every route I've done is among the best.

-Sendero Luminoso, Potrero (did not send the entire route, unfortunately)
-Original Route of Rainbow Wall, Red Rocks

Shorter Multipiches:
-Nutcracker (yes, Nutcracker), best moderate multipitch I've ever done.
-Fine Jade, Castle Valley
-Cornflake Crack, Looking Glass Rock

Ooh, I forgot that one. I agree. The one in Yosemite I assume you are talking about.

I also forgot:

On the Lamb, Tuolumne, 5.9
Erect Direction, Gunks, 5.10c
Sour Mash, Red Rocks, 5.10a
Sea Gypsy, Acadia, ME, 5.9+
Total Recall, North Conway, NH, 5.11b
Book of Solemnity, North Conway, NH, 5.10a

It's like asking me to pick a favorite child. Can't do it.

Josh

BTW, Enigma, Ghangzhou is right. Sometimes you make no sense and seem a little crazy. But you are positive and are starting to grow on me.


Partner camhead


Jan 31, 2011, 1:26 PM
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guangzhou wrote:
enigma wrote:
gblauer wrote:
All 23 pitches of TIme Wave Zero, El Potrero Chico

So how was that? I've never been to El Potrero Chico, How long did it take you? How's the rock? Very Impressive. Is that rated 5.11 or mixed moves? Excellent Accomplishment.
Pictures?

Enigma, you still make no sense to me.

Yeah, I'm not sure what she's asking about TWZ, either. I've done the route, it is really fun, and LONG, but the rock quality is not really up there for mega-classic status. The roite is all about quantity over quality.


kachoong


Jan 31, 2011, 2:27 PM
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Very tough to pick a favorite! In no particular order... although I guess it's the order my brain remembers them.

Grand Wall, The Chief
Cornerstone Rib, Warrumbungles
Polar Circus, Icefields Parkway
Surface to Air, Arapiles
Peacemaker, Cochise Stronghold
Angel's Crest, Squamish
Ames Ice Hose, Telluride
Extreme Youth, Booroomba
Aphelion, Glasshouse Mountains
Eurydice, Arapiles
Ozymandias, Mt Buffalo


gblauer
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Jan 31, 2011, 2:35 PM
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enigma wrote:
So how was that? I've never been to El Potrero Chico, How long did it take you? How's the rock? Very Impressive. Is that rated 5.11 or mixed moves? Excellent Accomplishment.
Pictures?

It took us about 12 hours door-to-door. It's about an hour approach to get to the base of the climb. We climbed relentlessly for hours, then you have to rappel the same 23 pitches. It's a really long day. The day we climbed it was 95 degrees with full sun.

It's mostly 10's, but the 21st pitch is a 12a, a "stinger" at the end of a long climb.


potreroed


Jan 31, 2011, 4:19 PM
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Another vote for Fiddler On the Roof and Levitation 29 at Red Rocks.

Rosy Crucifixion and Over the Hill in Eldorado Canyon.

Multi-pitch is why I live in the Potrero Chico. Some favorites:

Timewave Zero 23 pitches
Voodoo Trance 10 pitches
Treasure of the Sierra Madre 7 pitches
Pancho Villa Rides Again 5 pitches
Will the Wolf Survive 4 pitches
Strokin' the Bishop 3 pitches


sungam


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Unpossible to decide. Especially since most of the routes I remember fondly are because of the goings-on on the route, not the actual route.
Like Agag's Groove on Bouchaille Etive Mhor, for some reason I always have a blast on that route. It's not a world class route, but I am always smiling on it.

I also like climbing towers. Something about climbing something free-standing just makes it rad.

I had such a blast on Bear's Reach with Lazlo that I think of the route highly, though I've heard people talk about it a little critically.

Funny how the ambiance of the day/mood of the party can make shitty awkward grovelling feel like cool and funky moves, or sketchy run out stuff exciting or boring easy section relaxing and chilled.

Edit to add some more fun routes:

Finger's Ridge, Corrie an T'Schneacda, Caingorms.
Pidgeon Spire, Bugaboos

Haha, and a special mention for Burnsy of River Tower. One of the more hilarious excuses for climbing I've been involved in. HaHa!


(This post was edited by sungam on Jan 31, 2011, 5:00 PM)


pyrosis


Jan 31, 2011, 4:59 PM
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I vote for Regular NW Face of Half Dome.

I hope one day to be skilled enough to get the whole thing free.


LostinMaine


Jan 31, 2011, 5:04 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote:
Moby Grape, Cannon cliff, NH, 5.8

This.

Also:
Madam G's (5.6) Gunks (puts High E to shame)
Screaming Meanie (5.8ish) Roger's Rock (for the paddle and the company that day)
Green Mountain Breakdown (5.9ish) Acadia (such a great roof pull)

That's all for now.


caughtinside


Jan 31, 2011, 5:28 PM
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enigma wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
Lotta good ones, but I think I'd have to go with Lucky Streaks in tuolumne. 5 or 6 pitches, .10c.

Tuolumne is a mellow area, I've climbed a few times there and always had a good time.
Is it 10c throughout all the pitches or is it just one 5.10c move on Lucky Streaks?

It has a two or three move crux of .10c. Another 30 feet of 10a or so on the route. And like 600 feet of sustained 5.9.


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I guess if I had to decide I'd go with my most recent favorite: the Naked Edge.

GO


moose_droppings


Jan 31, 2011, 7:41 PM
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As much as I like the International Chimney route on Spire 3 for the perch on top, I'm going to go with the Conn Diagonal behind Sylvan Lake. Maybe it's because of all the different people I've taken up it or all the good times I've had on that route. It sticks out clearly in my mind when I think of fun.


Gmburns2000


Jan 31, 2011, 8:15 PM
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sungam wrote:
Haha, and a special mention for Burnsy of River Tower. One of the more hilarious excuses for climbing I've been involved in. HaHa!

I didn't enjoy the climb that much, so I didn't list it as a favorite, but as a favorite moment with two of my best friends, yeah, that was a memorable three days. Everything about those days, from push-starting the car, to the suddenly shifting rope, to the "Give me slack I'm going to jump" moments, to the tyrolean traverse: that was a fun time.Cool


cchas


Jan 31, 2011, 8:28 PM
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Shangri-la in Sedona. How many pitches.... well, in the guidebook its 5 (which I;'ve done it that way). Have also done it as a 3 pitch route and as a two pitch route. Belayed Mike when he did it without the bolts and am now wondering if you can do it as 2 pitches without the bolts.

It has a bit of everything

p1 tips crack but you heel hook and bump up an arete.
p2: a stunning splitter offset flake
p3: hard tips to powerful wide stems
p4 fingers to tight hands
p5 upto fists

and the position in the canyon can't be beat


(This post was edited by cchas on Jan 31, 2011, 8:31 PM)


enigma


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cchas wrote:
Shangri-la in Sedona. How many pitches.... well, in the guidebook its 5 (which I;'ve done it that way). Have also done it as a 3 pitch route and as a two pitch route. Belayed Mike when he did it without the bolts and am now wondering if you can do it as 2 pitches without the bolts.

It has a bit of everything

p1 tips crack but you heel hook and bump up an
arete.
p2: a stunning splitter offset flake
p3: hard tips to powerful wide stems
p4 fingers to tight hands
p5 upto fists

and the position in the canyon can't be beat

Sounds great! I always wanted to climb in Sedona it just looks beautiful. thanks Smile


enigma


Feb 1, 2011, 7:41 AM
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moose_droppings wrote:
As much as I like the International Chimney route on Spire 3 for the perch on top, I'm going to go with the Conn Diagonal behind Sylvan Lake. Maybe it's because of all the different people I've taken up it or all the good times I've had on that route. It sticks out clearly in my mind when I think of fun.

When is warm enough to climb there? Never been to South or North Dakota, Sounds like you have had some great times. Thanks for Info


rsmillbern


Feb 1, 2011, 10:03 AM
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the last thing I climbed :-)

The Daddy 5.6 (Linnville Gorge NC) is pretty good. I love taking newer climbers on this one.

Große Micheluzzi 5.10a (Piz Ciavazes : Süd Tirol : Italy) was pretty nice as well.

Grover 5.8 (Laurel Knob NC)


sungam


Feb 1, 2011, 12:52 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
sungam wrote:
Haha, and a special mention for Burnsy of River Tower. One of the more hilarious excuses for climbing I've been involved in. HaHa!

I didn't enjoy the climb that much, so I didn't list it as a favorite, but as a favorite moment with two of my best friends, yeah, that was a memorable three days. Everything about those days, from push-starting the car, to the suddenly shifting rope, to the "Give me slack I'm going to jump" moments, to the tyrolean traverse: that was a fun time.Cool
An adventure for sure. "Wait, you're gunna what?" "Slack!"
I've never been more proud of pathfinding then on the way out of there, either.


moose_droppings


Feb 1, 2011, 5:16 PM
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enigma wrote:
When is warm enough to climb there? Never been to South or North Dakota, Sounds like you have had some great times. Thanks for Info

It's supposed to get up to -2F today, come on up. Wink

April through October is usually mild enough for climbing, but our weather here is a crap shoot anytime of the year. The most consistent and predictable time time would be in September. Temps are comfortable, no bugs to speak of and the tourist have come and gone.


chadnsc


Feb 1, 2011, 5:24 PM
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Hard to pick but I'd say Conn Diagonal. Not the tallest or toughest but I like it.


erisspirit


Feb 1, 2011, 5:31 PM
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Sadly I don't have a lot of diversity yet in what multi pitch climbs I have done. I hope to fix this in the future

of the climbs I have done so far, I would say my favorites were either Open Book or Whodunit in tahquitz.


edge


Feb 1, 2011, 5:32 PM
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My favorites list is pretty diverse.

VMC Direct Direct on Cannon
Stoners Highway, Yosemite
Royal Arches to Crown Jewel, Yosemite
Misty Beethoven, Yosemite
Rosy Crucifixion to Italian Arete, Eldo
Yellow Spur, Eldo
Fat City, RMNP
Exum Ridge, Le Grand Teton
Wild Women, Cathedral
Le Ticket, Le Rond, Le Carre, et La Lune, Chamonix
Fafnir, Cannon

To name a few


jupiter


Feb 1, 2011, 5:34 PM
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In no particular order
1. Lone Star (11a, 21pitches by the book) Red Rock
2. Myopia (11a, 9p) Elephant's Perch
3. Positive Vibrations (11a, 12p or so) Incredible Hulk, Sierra Nevada
4. Sunshine Cracks (11a, 10p?) Bugaboos
5. Grand Wall (11a, 10p?) Squamish
6. Don Juan Wall (11b, 5p) Needles, Ca
7. Atlantis (11+, 4p) Needles, CA


curt


Feb 1, 2011, 5:44 PM
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caughtinside wrote:
Lotta good ones, but I think I'd have to go with Lucky Streaks in tuolumne. 5 or 6 pitches, .10c.

I'll give a second vote for Lucky Streaks. And I'll add Irene's Arete, 5.8.



On Disappointment Peak--in the Tetons.

Curt


jmeizis


Feb 1, 2011, 6:20 PM
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That's tough to pick. I guess I'll go with these five in order from most favorite:

Ramblin Rose 5.10a-S. Platte (awesome traverse on an easy flake to some in your face Platte slab climbing. Just really cool moves for a long time)

Fastest Gun 5.10a-Poko-Moonshine (cool climbing with a move where you can just cut your feet and enjoy the exposure, cool style of climbing for me)

Escape Artist 5.10a-Black Canyon (one of my first long multipitch "tens", just one of those cool moments of pushing doubt out of my head on something that was a little runout and at the time difficult for me to conceive of doing)

Center Route 5.9-South Platte (super sustained and bomber jams for a long time makes for a pumpy climb. A really pretty area of the Platte)

Wyrick-Merrel on River Tower 5.6 C2-Moab (although at the time of climbing I was sort of annoyed with the climb because I pretty much lead everything and we had to go back three days in a row for a freaking four pitch climb, we lost gear, and so on, it is one of the most memorable climbs ever aside from the North Face of Nez Perce. I don't want to ruin it but there's ancient hardware galore, nests of tiny gear in crap rock, easy runouts on really dangerous rock, wiggling fixed gear...oh and jumping. For full value I suggest taking someone who's never aid climbed before up it. The look of constant horror alone is worthwhile. Don't go in March either.)

There's more that some have already mentioned: Yellow Spur, Irene's Arete, Full Exum Ridge, Whitney Gilman Ridge, New Era, Kor's Flake, Mainliner, Kor-Ingalls, Fine Jade, too many classics to name. Can't wait for the warm weather again.


Gmburns2000


Feb 2, 2011, 2:57 AM
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sungam wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
sungam wrote:
Haha, and a special mention for Burnsy of River Tower. One of the more hilarious excuses for climbing I've been involved in. HaHa!

I didn't enjoy the climb that much, so I didn't list it as a favorite, but as a favorite moment with two of my best friends, yeah, that was a memorable three days. Everything about those days, from push-starting the car, to the suddenly shifting rope, to the "Give me slack I'm going to jump" moments, to the tyrolean traverse: that was a fun time.Cool
An adventure for sure. "Wait, you're gunna what?" "Slack!"
I've never been more proud of pathfinding then on the way out of there, either.

I feel a bit foolish now that's he's also mentioned it as a favorite too. ^^


uni_jim


Feb 2, 2011, 3:39 AM
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The Grand Sentinal, 5.8 - Banff
The Nutcracker, 5.8 - Yosemite
Wicked Wanda, W4 - The Ghost
Louise Falls, W4+ - Banff
Cascade Falls, W3 - Banff


Can't realy "rate" how fun a route is, but there were BIG smiles on top of these.


cush


Feb 2, 2011, 6:32 AM
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don't have too much experience on long routes. most of the routes at the gunks are only 1-2 pitches but gamesmanship on pokomoonshine in the dacks was fantastic, as was el matador on devil's tower.


michaelj2


Feb 2, 2011, 7:10 AM
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My favorite climbs all mean something different to me, depending on where it was during my climbing evolution, who I was with, or if I wasn't with anyone. Some personal highlights:

Positive Vibes, The Hulk
Astroman, The Valley
Wall of the Worlds, Cal Dome
Beckey-Chouinard, The Bugs
Nutcracker, The Valley (<20 mins)
Freeway, Squamish
The Vampire, Tahquitz
Slipstream, Icefields Parkway
Upper Weeping Wall, Icefields Parkway
Full Exum, The Tetons (<11 hrs c2c, onsight)


enigma


Feb 2, 2011, 7:24 AM
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edge wrote:
My favorites list is pretty diverse.

VMC Direct Direct on Cannon
Stoners Highway, Yosemite
Royal Arches to Crown Jewel, Yosemite
Misty Beethoven, Yosemite
Rosy Crucifixion to Italian Arete, Eldo
Yellow Spur, Eldo
Fat City, RMNP
Exum Ridge, Le Grand Teton
Wild Women, Cathedral
Le Ticket, Le Rond, Le Carre, et La Lune, Chamonix
Fafnir, Cannon

To name a few

Nice Variety, Boy you have been around !! thanks


enigma


Feb 2, 2011, 7:26 AM
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curt wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
Lotta good ones, but I think I'd have to go with Lucky Streaks in tuolumne. 5 or 6 pitches, .10c.

I'll give a second vote for Lucky Streaks. And I'll add Irene's Arete, 5.8.

[img]http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/classicclimbs/Irenes-Arete.jpg[/img]

On Disappointment Peak--in the Tetons.

Curt

Beautiful Photo - Arete's are great!!


guangzhou


Feb 2, 2011, 7:31 AM
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Serenity to Sons of yesterday- Yosemite
The Prow on Cathedral New Hampshire
The Line at Lover's Leap
Corn Flake Crack, Looking Glass
Lurking Fear- Yosemite. One day, I will commit to trying a free ascent of this route
Humanity Tonsai (Thailand)
Tower I Spikul Indonesia
Guide's Route Grand Tetons


Loved them all


(This post was edited by guangzhou on Feb 2, 2011, 7:32 AM)


enigma


Feb 2, 2011, 7:39 AM
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jmeizis wrote:
That's tough to pick. I guess I'll go with these five in order from most favorite:

Ramblin Rose 5.10a-S. Platte (awesome traverse on an easy flake to some in your face Platte slab climbing. Just really cool moves for a long time)

Fastest Gun 5.10a-Poko-Moonshine (cool climbing with a move where you can just cut your feet and enjoy the exposure, cool style of climbing for me)

Escape Artist 5.10a-Black Canyon (one of my first long multipitch "tens", just one of those cool moments of pushing doubt out of my head on something that was a little runout and at the time difficult for me to conceive of doing)

Center Route 5.9-South Platte (super sustained and bomber jams for a long time makes for a pumpy climb. A really pretty area of the Platte)

Wyrick-Merrel on River Tower 5.6 C2-Moab (although at the time of climbing I was sort of annoyed with the climb because I pretty much lead everything and we had to go back three days in a row for a freaking four pitch climb, we lost gear, and so on, it is one of the most memorable climbs ever aside from the North Face of Nez Perce. I don't want to ruin it but there's ancient hardware galore, nests of tiny gear in crap rock, easy runouts on really dangerous rock, wiggling fixed gear...oh and jumping. For full value I suggest taking someone who's never aid climbed before up it. The look of constant horror alone is worthwhile. Don't go in March either.)

There's more that some have already mentioned: Yellow Spur, Irene's Arete, Full Exum Ridge, Whitney Gilman Ridge, New Era, Kor's Flake, Mainliner, Kor-Ingalls, Fine Jade, too many classics to name. Can't wait for the warm weather again.

Thanks for the beta as well. Its always great to get before you are halfway up and hear this route is terrible. Especially when the guide book isn't helpful.
Is Black Canyon your favorite area in Colorado?
Did you ever climb that Painted Wall, that was a well written trip report though it sounded a little dicey to climb.


enigma


Feb 2, 2011, 7:43 AM
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guangzhou wrote:
Serenity to Sons of yesterday- Yosemite
The Prow on Cathedral New Hampshire
The Line at Lover's Leap
Corn Flake Crack, Looking Glass
Lurking Fear- Yosemite. One day, I will commit to trying a free ascent of this route
Humanity Tonsai (Thailand)
Tower I Spikul Indonesia
Guide's Route Grand Tetons
Loved them all

Cool
Nice Mix, Now when climbers choose multi-pitch routes they can have a reference even in Indonesia and Thailand.


enigma


Feb 2, 2011, 7:46 AM
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erisspirit wrote:
Sadly I don't have a lot of diversity yet in what multi pitch climbs I have done. I hope to fix this in the future

of the climbs I have done so far, I would say my favorites were either Open Book or Whodunit in tahquitz.

You will! Now you have lists to help you pick climbers favorites


jmeizis


Feb 2, 2011, 3:33 PM
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I don't know if I can say The Black is my favorite place. I've only been able to get out there once. It's just a really intense place with a lot of history and it's kind of ominous.

Greg, it's one of those climbs where it doesn't have to be fun to be fun. Without other people there it would have just been some chossy nightmare but luckily we all could joke and whine about it together which made it a fun climb. Sort of like Epinephrine for you I think.


kachoong


Feb 2, 2011, 4:05 PM
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Sometimes it's the absolute fear and nightmare-giving intensity that leaves such an impression that it becomes a favorite climb. For me, some multipitch ice adventures and a couple rock routes left me with an admiration of the overall atmosphere of the route. Some routes in perfect conditions are completely different to the exact same route in adverse conditions and can make both experiences favorites... given both scenarios it's the adverse conditions, for me, that almost always become more memorable.


sungam


Feb 2, 2011, 4:18 PM
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Hey, if we're switching from "favourite" to "memorable" then I have some additions.

Drifting even further from the topic - one of my favourite days climbing was at a fairly shite. But the people I was with, and the shear amount of laughter made it a great time. I also think I took more falls that day then any other day climbing. Generally from someone shouting sage advice along the lines of "BE STRONG LIKE BEARRRR" or "The key to that section is to not have eaten so much last week".
No other time have I been laughing too hard to shout "fall!".


kachoong


Feb 2, 2011, 4:27 PM
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sungam wrote:
Hey, if we're switching from "favourite" to "memorable" then I have some additions.

To me, most of the time, they are the same thing. Given a little time, the most memorable bad scenarios become my favorites mainly because of the experience and lessons I learned. Without them I wouldn't be the climber I am today.


Gmburns2000


Feb 2, 2011, 6:03 PM
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jmeizis wrote:
I don't know if I can say The Black is my favorite place. I've only been able to get out there once. It's just a really intense place with a lot of history and it's kind of ominous.

Greg, it's one of those climbs where it doesn't have to be fun to be fun. Without other people there it would have just been some chossy nightmare but luckily we all could joke and whine about it together which made it a fun climb. Sort of like Epinephrine for you I think.

yeah, you're right about the fun of it: wyrick-merrill was definitely fun for the reasons noted. I still laugh at the "give me about five more feet of slack...I have to jump!" quote.

Epi...still shakes my boots.


mattm


Feb 2, 2011, 7:07 PM
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All of these have left me with that "shit eating grin" for HOURS after I was done.

Cruel Shoes to Grand Wall - Squamish
Borderline - Squamish
Local Boys Do Good - Squam
Dream Symphony - Squam
Royal Arches to Crest Jewel (CTC in 10hrs)- Yos
Infinite Bliss - WA
Davis-Holland to Lovin' Arms - Index, WA
Stanley-Burgner Route - Prusik Peak, WA
Surrealistic Pillar to Corrugation Corner - The Leap
Iron Way (I think) - Mt Lemmon
Yellow Spur - Eldo
Epinephrine - Red Rocks
Yellow Brick Road - Red Rocks
Directississima - Gunks
Recompense with the Beast Var.- Cathedral
Book of Solemnity - Cathedral
Whitney-Gilman - Cannon


blueeyedclimber


Feb 2, 2011, 7:44 PM
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mattm wrote:
All of these have left me with that "shit eating grin" for HOURS after I was done.

Cruel Shoes to Grand Wall - Squamish We did Apron Strings to Grand Wall, but didn't finish the Grand for a couple different reasons. Cruel shoes looks awesome too.
Borderline - Squamish Looks like I have something new on my ticklist for next time.
Local Boys Do Good - Squam Agreed
Dream Symphony - Squam #2 on my new ticklist
Royal Arches to Crest Jewel (CTC in 10hrs)- Yos I need to get back to Yosemite. So much to do.
Infinite Bliss - WA Never been to WA
Davis-Holland to Lovin' Arms - Index, WA Ditto
Stanley-Burgner Route - Prusik Peak, WA Ditto
Surrealistic Pillar to Corrugation Corner - The Leap Never been to the Leap
Iron Way (I think) - Mt Lemmon Never been to Arizona
Yellow Spur - Eldo I looked at this on my one and only trip there. Might have to put it on my list in my other thread.
Epinephrine - Red Rocks Agreed. The route left me smiling. The descent left me cursing like a sailor.
Yellow Brick Road - Red Rocks Haven't done.
Directississima - Gunks One of my favorite pitches anywhere. Wish it were longer. Last time I was on it I tried to link it to the last pitch of Enduro man. Hung on it but thought it might go with some work.
Recompense with the Beast Var.- Cathedral Agreed. One of the best 5.9's in the Northeast.
Book of Solemnity - Cathedral Very cool route. Also too short.
Whitney-Gilman - Cannon 5.7 Adventure climbing at it's best.


Nice list.

Josh


kachoong


Feb 2, 2011, 7:47 PM
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michaelj2 wrote:
My favorite climbs all mean something different to me, depending on where it was during my climbing evolution, who I was with, or if I wasn't with anyone. Some personal highlights:

Positive Vibes, The Hulk
Astroman, The Valley
Wall of the Worlds, Cal Dome
Beckey-Chouinard, The Bugs
Nutcracker, The Valley (<20 mins)
Freeway, Squamish
The Vampire, Tahquitz
Slipstream, Icefields Parkway
Upper Weeping Wall, Icefields Parkway
Full Exum, The Tetons (<11 hrs c2c, onsight)

I have always always always wanted to climb Slipstream. That's one hell of a line!

I would also love to climb the Hulk... if I ever get to CA. It's an impressive chunk of rock.


blueeyedclimber


Feb 2, 2011, 8:07 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote:
mattm wrote:
All of these have left me with that "shit eating grin" for HOURS after I was done.

Cruel Shoes to Grand Wall - Squamish We did Apron Strings to Grand Wall, but didn't finish the Grand for a couple different reasons. Cruel shoes looks awesome too.
Borderline - Squamish Looks like I have something new on my ticklist for next time.
Local Boys Do Good - Squam Agreed
Dream Symphony - Squam #2 on my new ticklist
Royal Arches to Crest Jewel (CTC in 10hrs)- Yos I need to get back to Yosemite. So much to do.
Infinite Bliss - WA Never been to WA
Davis-Holland to Lovin' Arms - Index, WA Ditto
Stanley-Burgner Route - Prusik Peak, WA Ditto
Surrealistic Pillar to Corrugation Corner - The Leap Never been to the Leap
Iron Way (I think) - Mt Lemmon Never been to Arizona
Yellow Spur - Eldo I looked at this on my one and only trip there. Might have to put it on my list in my other thread.
Epinephrine - Red Rocks Agreed. The route left me smiling. The descent left me cursing like a sailor.
Yellow Brick Road - Red Rocks Haven't done.
Directississima - Gunks One of my favorite pitches anywhere. Wish it were longer. Last time I was on it I tried to link it to the last pitch of Enduro man. Hung on it but thought it might go with some work.
Recompense with the Beast Var.- Cathedral Agreed. One of the best 5.9's in the Northeast.
Book of Solemnity - Cathedral Very cool route. Also too short.
Whitney-Gilman - Cannon 5.7 Adventure climbing at it's best.


Nice list.

Josh

Actually it was the Naked Edge that I look at in Eldo, but Yellow Spur looks awesome too.

A couple more additions to my list:

Rosy Crucifixion to Alice in Bucketland in Eldo
Bastille Crack in Eldo



Josh


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Feb 2, 2011, 8:25 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote:
blueeyedclimber wrote:
mattm wrote:
All of these have left me with that "shit eating grin" for HOURS after I was done.

Cruel Shoes to Grand Wall - Squamish We did Apron Strings to Grand Wall, but didn't finish the Grand for a couple different reasons. Cruel shoes looks awesome too.
Borderline - Squamish Looks like I have something new on my ticklist for next time.
Local Boys Do Good - Squam Agreed
Dream Symphony - Squam #2 on my new ticklist
Royal Arches to Crest Jewel (CTC in 10hrs)- Yos I need to get back to Yosemite. So much to do.
Infinite Bliss - WA Never been to WA
Davis-Holland to Lovin' Arms - Index, WA Ditto
Stanley-Burgner Route - Prusik Peak, WA Ditto
Surrealistic Pillar to Corrugation Corner - The Leap Never been to the Leap
Iron Way (I think) - Mt Lemmon Never been to Arizona
Yellow Spur - Eldo I looked at this on my one and only trip there. Might have to put it on my list in my other thread.
Epinephrine - Red Rocks Agreed. The route left me smiling. The descent left me cursing like a sailor.
Yellow Brick Road - Red Rocks Haven't done.
Directississima - Gunks One of my favorite pitches anywhere. Wish it were longer. Last time I was on it I tried to link it to the last pitch of Enduro man. Hung on it but thought it might go with some work.
Recompense with the Beast Var.- Cathedral Agreed. One of the best 5.9's in the Northeast.
Book of Solemnity - Cathedral Very cool route. Also too short.
Whitney-Gilman - Cannon 5.7 Adventure climbing at it's best.


Nice list.

Josh

Actually it was the Naked Edge that I look at in Eldo, but Yellow Spur looks awesome too.

A couple more additions to my list:

Rosy Crucifixion to Alice in Bucketland in Eldo
Bastille Crack in Eldo



Josh

Get strong and I'll do Naked Edge with you next time you come visit.

GO


blueeyedclimber


Feb 2, 2011, 8:28 PM
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cracklover wrote:
blueeyedclimber wrote:
blueeyedclimber wrote:
mattm wrote:
All of these have left me with that "shit eating grin" for HOURS after I was done.

Cruel Shoes to Grand Wall - Squamish We did Apron Strings to Grand Wall, but didn't finish the Grand for a couple different reasons. Cruel shoes looks awesome too.
Borderline - Squamish Looks like I have something new on my ticklist for next time.
Local Boys Do Good - Squam Agreed
Dream Symphony - Squam #2 on my new ticklist
Royal Arches to Crest Jewel (CTC in 10hrs)- Yos I need to get back to Yosemite. So much to do.
Infinite Bliss - WA Never been to WA
Davis-Holland to Lovin' Arms - Index, WA Ditto
Stanley-Burgner Route - Prusik Peak, WA Ditto
Surrealistic Pillar to Corrugation Corner - The Leap Never been to the Leap
Iron Way (I think) - Mt Lemmon Never been to Arizona
Yellow Spur - Eldo I looked at this on my one and only trip there. Might have to put it on my list in my other thread.
Epinephrine - Red Rocks Agreed. The route left me smiling. The descent left me cursing like a sailor.
Yellow Brick Road - Red Rocks Haven't done.
Directississima - Gunks One of my favorite pitches anywhere. Wish it were longer. Last time I was on it I tried to link it to the last pitch of Enduro man. Hung on it but thought it might go with some work.
Recompense with the Beast Var.- Cathedral Agreed. One of the best 5.9's in the Northeast.
Book of Solemnity - Cathedral Very cool route. Also too short.
Whitney-Gilman - Cannon 5.7 Adventure climbing at it's best.


Nice list.

Josh

Actually it was the Naked Edge that I look at in Eldo, but Yellow Spur looks awesome too.

A couple more additions to my list:

Rosy Crucifixion to Alice in Bucketland in Eldo
Bastille Crack in Eldo



Josh

Get strong and I'll do Naked Edge with you next time you come visit.

GO

What are you implying? Tongue


mattm


Feb 2, 2011, 9:11 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote:
mattm wrote:
All of these have left me with that "shit eating grin" for HOURS after I was done.

Cruel Shoes to Grand Wall - Squamish We did Apron Strings to Grand Wall, but didn't finish the Grand for a couple different reasons. Cruel shoes looks awesome too.
Borderline - Squamish Looks like I have something new on my ticklist for next time.
Local Boys Do Good - Squam Agreed
Dream Symphony - Squam #2 on my new ticklist
Royal Arches to Crest Jewel (CTC in 10hrs)- Yos I need to get back to Yosemite. So much to do.
Infinite Bliss - WA Never been to WA
Davis-Holland to Lovin' Arms - Index, WA Ditto
Stanley-Burgner Route - Prusik Peak, WA Ditto
Surrealistic Pillar to Corrugation Corner - The Leap Never been to the Leap
Iron Way (I think) - Mt Lemmon Never been to Arizona
Yellow Spur - Eldo I looked at this on my one and only trip there. Might have to put it on my list in my other thread.
Epinephrine - Red Rocks Agreed. The route left me smiling. The descent left me cursing like a sailor.
Yellow Brick Road - Red Rocks Haven't done.
Directississima - Gunks One of my favorite pitches anywhere. Wish it were longer. Last time I was on it I tried to link it to the last pitch of Enduro man. Hung on it but thought it might go with some work.
Recompense with the Beast Var.- Cathedral Agreed. One of the best 5.9's in the Northeast.
Book of Solemnity - Cathedral Very cool route. Also too short.
Whitney-Gilman - Cannon 5.7 Adventure climbing at it's best.


Nice list.

Josh

Yep, I grew up in the East and everything listed is classic but short. That's the "draw" of the West.

I could list more from Squamish but I didn't want to get too "one sided"

The weather window is tough sometimes but I truly think Squamish is THE BEST Trad area in NA followed by Red Rocks.


blueeyedclimber


Feb 2, 2011, 9:57 PM
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mattm wrote:

Yep, I grew up in the East and everything listed is classic but short. That's the "draw" of the West.

I could list more from Squamish but I didn't want to get too "one sided"

The weather window is tough sometimes but I truly think Squamish is THE BEST Trad area in NA followed by Red Rocks.

Once again, AGREED! Smile

Josh


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Feb 2, 2011, 10:56 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote:
cracklover wrote:
blueeyedclimber wrote:
blueeyedclimber wrote:
mattm wrote:
All of these have left me with that "shit eating grin" for HOURS after I was done.

Cruel Shoes to Grand Wall - Squamish We did Apron Strings to Grand Wall, but didn't finish the Grand for a couple different reasons. Cruel shoes looks awesome too.
Borderline - Squamish Looks like I have something new on my ticklist for next time.
Local Boys Do Good - Squam Agreed
Dream Symphony - Squam #2 on my new ticklist
Royal Arches to Crest Jewel (CTC in 10hrs)- Yos I need to get back to Yosemite. So much to do.
Infinite Bliss - WA Never been to WA
Davis-Holland to Lovin' Arms - Index, WA Ditto
Stanley-Burgner Route - Prusik Peak, WA Ditto
Surrealistic Pillar to Corrugation Corner - The Leap Never been to the Leap
Iron Way (I think) - Mt Lemmon Never been to Arizona
Yellow Spur - Eldo I looked at this on my one and only trip there. Might have to put it on my list in my other thread.
Epinephrine - Red Rocks Agreed. The route left me smiling. The descent left me cursing like a sailor.
Yellow Brick Road - Red Rocks Haven't done.
Directississima - Gunks One of my favorite pitches anywhere. Wish it were longer. Last time I was on it I tried to link it to the last pitch of Enduro man. Hung on it but thought it might go with some work.
Recompense with the Beast Var.- Cathedral Agreed. One of the best 5.9's in the Northeast.
Book of Solemnity - Cathedral Very cool route. Also too short.
Whitney-Gilman - Cannon 5.7 Adventure climbing at it's best.


Nice list.

Josh

Actually it was the Naked Edge that I look at in Eldo, but Yellow Spur looks awesome too.

A couple more additions to my list:

Rosy Crucifixion to Alice in Bucketland in Eldo
Bastille Crack in Eldo



Josh

Get strong and I'll do Naked Edge with you next time you come visit.

GO

What are you implying? Tongue

LOL. Maybe I'm just projecting. I'm sure as hell not strong enough to go do it right now. But if I knew you were coming, I'd get there.

Not to make too big a deal of it, but I've been on 5.12 routes that were easier.

GO


enigma


Feb 3, 2011, 6:44 AM
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mattm wrote:
blueeyedclimber wrote:
mattm wrote:
All of these have left me with that "shit eating grin" for HOURS after I was done.

Cruel Shoes to Grand Wall - Squamish We did Apron Strings to Grand Wall, but didn't finish the Grand for a couple different reasons. Cruel shoes looks awesome too.
Borderline - Squamish Looks like I have something new on my ticklist for next time.
Local Boys Do Good - Squam Agreed
Dream Symphony - Squam #2 on my new ticklist
Royal Arches to Crest Jewel (CTC in 10hrs)- Yos I need to get back to Yosemite. So much to do.
Infinite Bliss - WA Never been to WA
Davis-Holland to Lovin' Arms - Index, WA Ditto
Stanley-Burgner Route - Prusik Peak, WA Ditto
Surrealistic Pillar to Corrugation Corner - The Leap Never been to the Leap
Iron Way (I think) - Mt Lemmon Never been to Arizona
Yellow Spur - Eldo I looked at this on my one and only trip there. Might have to put it on my list in my other thread.
Epinephrine - Red Rocks Agreed. The route left me smiling. The descent left me cursing like a sailor.
Yellow Brick Road - Red Rocks Haven't done.
Directississima - Gunks One of my favorite pitches anywhere. Wish it were longer. Last time I was on it I tried to link it to the last pitch of Enduro man. Hung on it but thought it might go with some work.
Recompense with the Beast Var.- Cathedral Agreed. One of the best 5.9's in the Northeast.
Book of Solemnity - Cathedral Very cool route. Also too short.
Whitney-Gilman - Cannon 5.7 Adventure climbing at it's best.


Nice list.

Josh

Yep, I grew up in the East and everything listed is classic but short. That's the "draw" of the West.

I could list more from Squamish but I didn't want to get too "one sided"

The weather window is tough sometimes but I truly think Squamish is THE BEST Trad area in NA followed by Red Rocks.

Cool

There's also alot of great multi-pitch climbs in Lovers Leap, 5.7-5.11. The rock is very unusual almost like there are patterns on it.

We also forgot Smith Rocks , Monkey Face anyone?

Mt Lemmon has so much as well, I only been there once but theres so much to climb. With different elevations.

Yes with Yosemite and Tuolumne in the West you can climb forever .
The Gunks will always be my first outside climbing and there is a nice feel to the area around New Paltz.
.

Thanks for sharing !!


enigma


Feb 3, 2011, 9:45 AM
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sungam wrote:
Unpossible to decide. Especially since most of the routes I remember fondly are because of the goings-on on the route, not the actual route.
Like Agag's Groove on Bouchaille Etive Mhor, for some reason I always have a blast on that route. It's not a world class route, but I am always smiling on it.

I also like climbing towers. Something about climbing something free-standing just makes it rad.

I had such a blast on Bear's Reach with Lazlo that I think of the route highly, though I've heard people talk about it a little critically.

Funny how the ambiance of the day/mood of the party can make shitty awkward grovelling feel like cool and funky moves, or sketchy run out stuff exciting or boring easy section relaxing and chilled.

Edit to add some more fun routes:

Finger's Ridge, Corrie an T'Schneacda, Caingorms.
Pidgeon Spire, Bugaboos

Haha, and a special mention for Burnsy of River Tower. One of the more hilarious excuses for climbing I've been involved in. HaHa!

Wow Scotland -Just thinking is it the air there that allows a climber to fall 1000 ft and land on his feet!!JK

I am interested in this bugaboos,
let me tell you I climbed with this 15yr old teen boy that could lead amazingly he put his first piece 150ft from the ground,on rock on and was down to climb the entire grand wall and lead it himself through split and sword. Unbelievable climbed since 4,
Anyway he said the bugaboos was great routes long approaches, What type of rock? is it desolate?

Any photos?


sungam


Feb 3, 2011, 11:49 AM
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Scotland has some rad routes but the weather can be an issue and nothing is really roadside.

The bugs are rad, I don't have any photos cuz I lost my camera, though.


Partner macherry


Feb 3, 2011, 3:51 PM
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sungam wrote:
Scotland has some rad routes but the weather can be an issue and nothing is really roadside.

The bugs are rad, I don't have any photos cuz I lost my camera, though.

lost it!!! you forgot it at the hut!!!!Blush


sungam


Feb 3, 2011, 4:35 PM
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macherry wrote:
sungam wrote:
Scotland has some rad routes but the weather can be an issue and nothing is really roadside.

The bugs are rad, I don't have any photos cuz I lost my camera, though.

lost it!!! you forgot it at the hut!!!!Blush
MadMadMad Way to out me Marge.

Yeah, I left it at the hut. Busted.

You'd have thought someone would hand it in, though, no?


donald949


Feb 3, 2011, 6:06 PM
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sungam wrote:
macherry wrote:
sungam wrote:
Scotland has some rad routes but the weather can be an issue and nothing is really roadside.

The bugs are rad, I don't have any photos cuz I lost my camera, though.

lost it!!! you forgot it at the hut!!!!Blush
MadMadMad Way to out me Marge.

Yeah, I left it at the hut. Busted.

You'd have thought someone would hand it in, though, no?
Nope.

But fer me.
With out a doubt my favorite multi pitch.
Tree Route, 5.6, Dome Rock. First 3 pitches, easy breazy fingerish crack. P4 up a short slab, 1 bolt to a small roof. Try to wiggle a stopper in. Pull the easy 5.6, but don't slip and your home free.
Great day. Smile


Partner macherry


Feb 4, 2011, 1:40 AM
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sungam wrote:
macherry wrote:
sungam wrote:
Scotland has some rad routes but the weather can be an issue and nothing is really roadside.

The bugs are rad, I don't have any photos cuz I lost my camera, though.

lost it!!! you forgot it at the hut!!!!Blush
MadMadMad Way to out me Marge.

Yeah, I left it at the hut. Busted.

You'd have thought someone would hand it in, though, no?

bad form not to turn it in!!


kachoong


Feb 4, 2011, 1:41 AM
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macherry wrote:
sungam wrote:
macherry wrote:
sungam wrote:
Scotland has some rad routes but the weather can be an issue and nothing is really roadside.

The bugs are rad, I don't have any photos cuz I lost my camera, though.

lost it!!! you forgot it at the hut!!!!Blush
MadMadMad Way to out me Marge.

Yeah, I left it at the hut. Busted.

You'd have thought someone would hand it in, though, no?

bad form not to turn it in!!

How could you find an owner of a camera where all the pics are of sheep rear ends?


sungam


Feb 4, 2011, 10:07 AM
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kachoong wrote:
macherry wrote:
sungam wrote:
macherry wrote:
sungam wrote:
Scotland has some rad routes but the weather can be an issue and nothing is really roadside.

The bugs are rad, I don't have any photos cuz I lost my camera, though.

lost it!!! you forgot it at the hut!!!!Blush
MadMadMad Way to out me Marge.

Yeah, I left it at the hut. Busted.

You'd have thought someone would hand it in, though, no?

bad form not to turn it in!!

How could you find an owner of a camera where all the pics are of sheep rear ends?
Darkside was there so some of this pictures had me in "them".


donald949


Feb 4, 2011, 5:07 PM
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sungam wrote:
kachoong wrote:
macherry wrote:
sungam wrote:
macherry wrote:
sungam wrote:
Scotland has some rad routes but the weather can be an issue and nothing is really roadside.

The bugs are rad, I don't have any photos cuz I lost my camera, though.

lost it!!! you forgot it at the hut!!!!Blush
MadMadMad Way to out me Marge.

Yeah, I left it at the hut. Busted.

You'd have thought someone would hand it in, though, no?

bad form not to turn it in!!

How could you find an owner of a camera where all the pics are of sheep rear ends?
Darkside was there so some of this pictures had me in "them".
Wholly double entandra batman
but otherwise, maybe you should hit the cascade climbers forum.


bandycoot


Feb 4, 2011, 7:00 PM
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Here's a few that come to mind with good memories:

The Rostrum, Yosemite
Romantic Warrior, The Needles
Snake Dike, Yosemite
Royal Arches to Crest Jewel Direct, Yosemite
The Vampire, Tahquitz
Original Route on Rainbow Wall, Red Rocks
Moonlight Buttress, Zion
Mike Strassman Memorial Route, High Sierra
The Totem Pole, Tasmania
Lord of the Thais, Railay, Thailand
Cloud Tower, Red Rocks
3rd Pillar of Mt. Dana, High Sierra
Innersanctum to Airy Interlude, The Needles
The Nose (IAD), Yosemite
Astroman, Yosemite

And so many more.....

Josh


enigma


Feb 5, 2011, 1:34 AM
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bandycoot wrote:
Here's a few that come to mind with good memories:

The Rostrum, Yosemite
Romantic Warrior, The Needles
Snake Dike, Yosemite
Royal Arches to Crest Jewel Direct, Yosemite
The Vampire, Tahquitz
Original Route on Rainbow Wall, Red Rocks
Moonlight Buttress, Zion
Mike Strassman Memorial Route, High Sierra
The Totem Pole, Tasmania
Lord of the Thais, Railay, Thailand
Cloud Tower, Red Rocks
3rd Pillar of Mt. Dana, High Sierra
Innersanctum to Airy Interlude, The Needles
The Nose (IAD), Yosemite
Astroman, Yosemite

And so many more.....

Josh

I would like to climb in Zion and the Needles, been invited several times, any recommendations for moderate mult-pitch 5.9- 5.10 b range? thanks


coastal_climber


Feb 5, 2011, 1:42 AM
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Rock on.

ultimate everything sucks.


enigma


Feb 8, 2011, 4:41 AM
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coastal_climber wrote:
Rock on.

ultimate everything sucks.

Rock On is a great climb.
I liked the variety in the ultimate everything.A crack pitch, a face climb, even an a little aid piece.
There are so many multi-pitch climbs there, Did you climb Angels Crest?

Any other liebacks you recommend? I did one 5.10b as a lieback my fingers were able to fit in the crack. I have to look up the name in my Squamish Book.


redonkulus


Feb 8, 2011, 5:06 AM
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Southwest Rib of South Early Winter's Spire, Washington Pass, 5.8

Humanality, Tonsai Beach, Thailand, 10d

Both pretty fun.


coastal_climber


Feb 8, 2011, 5:54 PM
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enigma wrote:
coastal_climber wrote:
Rock on.

ultimate everything sucks.

Rock On is a great climb.
I liked the variety in the ultimate everything.A crack pitch, a face climb, even an a little aid piece.
There are so many multi-pitch climbs there, Did you climb Angels Crest?

Any other liebacks you recommend? I did one 5.10b as a lieback my fingers were able to fit in the crack. I have to look up the name in my Squamish Book.

Angels is good. Cool traversing climbing on the ribs at the top. You did aid on U.E.? not the .10b traverse?

You can layback on lots of routes in squish, no good ones come to mind tho.


kachoong


Feb 8, 2011, 6:22 PM
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Re: [coastal_climber] Your Favorite Multi-Pitch Climb? [In reply to]
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coastal_climber wrote:
enigma wrote:
coastal_climber wrote:
Rock on.

ultimate everything sucks.

Rock On is a great climb.
I liked the variety in the ultimate everything.A crack pitch, a face climb, even an a little aid piece.
There are so many multi-pitch climbs there, Did you climb Angels Crest?

Any other liebacks you recommend? I did one 5.10b as a lieback my fingers were able to fit in the crack. I have to look up the name in my Squamish Book.

Angels is good. Cool traversing climbing on the ribs at the top. You did aid on U.E.? not the .10b traverse?

You can layback on lots of routes in squish, no good ones come to mind tho.

From memory some routes with laybacking include Split pillar, Caboose, Kangaroo Corner, Freeway, Golden Labs, Cruel Shoes...


sungam


Feb 8, 2011, 6:44 PM
Post #84 of 86 (1662 views)
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804

Re: [kachoong] Your Favorite Multi-Pitch Climb? [In reply to]
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kachoong wrote:
coastal_climber wrote:
enigma wrote:
coastal_climber wrote:
Rock on.

ultimate everything sucks.

Rock On is a great climb.
I liked the variety in the ultimate everything.A crack pitch, a face climb, even an a little aid piece.
There are so many multi-pitch climbs there, Did you climb Angels Crest?

Any other liebacks you recommend? I did one 5.10b as a lieback my fingers were able to fit in the crack. I have to look up the name in my Squamish Book.

Angels is good. Cool traversing climbing on the ribs at the top. You did aid on U.E.? not the .10b traverse?

You can layback on lots of routes in squish, no good ones come to mind tho.

From memory some routes with laybacking include Split pillar, Caboose, Kangaroo Corner, Freeway, Golden Labs, Cruel Shoes...
Hey, that's you!


enigma


Feb 9, 2011, 6:59 AM
Post #85 of 86 (1637 views)
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Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 2279

Re: [coastal_climber] Your Favorite Multi-Pitch Climb? [In reply to]
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coastal_climber wrote:
enigma wrote:
coastal_climber wrote:
Rock on.

ultimate everything sucks.

Rock On is a great climb.
I liked the variety in the ultimate everything.A crack pitch, a face climb, even an a little aid piece.
There are so many multi-pitch climbs there, Did you climb Angels Crest?

Any other liebacks you recommend? I did one 5.10b as a lieback my fingers were able to fit in the crack. I have to look up the name in my Squamish Book.

Angels is good. Cool traversing climbing on the ribs at the top. You did aid on U.E.? not the .10b traverse?

You can layback on lots of routes in squish, no good ones come to mind tho.

I climbed cruel shoes, apron strings, and the flake and many others. There are so many climbs there its amazing.
As well as different areas. I also climbed in Checkamus- with a group of climbers when it rained in Squish.
When I did the ultimate everything- I did the aid, because I had to clean gear.
I guess you have to wait till spring now. You can always go to Josh for a change of place. Its warm enough in South California almost every day to climb.
Thanks for your reply. I never did the split pillar and the sword. Next time!


coastal_climber


Feb 11, 2011, 5:07 AM
Post #86 of 86 (1609 views)
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Registered: Nov 17, 2006
Posts: 2542

Re: [enigma] Your Favorite Multi-Pitch Climb? [In reply to]
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enigma wrote:
coastal_climber wrote:
enigma wrote:
coastal_climber wrote:
Rock on.

ultimate everything sucks.

Rock On is a great climb.
I liked the variety in the ultimate everything.A crack pitch, a face climb, even an a little aid piece.
There are so many multi-pitch climbs there, Did you climb Angels Crest?

Any other liebacks you recommend? I did one 5.10b as a lieback my fingers were able to fit in the crack. I have to look up the name in my Squamish Book.

Angels is good. Cool traversing climbing on the ribs at the top. You did aid on U.E.? not the .10b traverse?

You can layback on lots of routes in squish, no good ones come to mind tho.

I climbed cruel shoes, apron strings, and the flake and many others. There are so many climbs there its amazing.
As well as different areas. I also climbed in Checkamus- with a group of climbers when it rained in Squish.
When I did the ultimate everything- I did the aid, because I had to clean gear.
I guess you have to wait till spring now. You can always go to Josh for a change of place. Its warm enough in South California almost every day to climb.
Thanks for your reply. I never did the split pillar and the sword. Next time!


Send me a message next time your up and we'll do some climbing.


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