|
enigma
Jan 30, 2011, 11:37 PM
Post #1 of 86
(11345 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 2279
|
I enjoy multi-pitch climbs and my favorite and longest was rock-on and then the ultimate everything. It was 17-18 pitches, from 5. 10a to 5.9. It was a day climb in Squamish. What was your favorite multi-pitch climb?
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Jan 30, 2011, 11:52 PM
Post #2 of 86
(11329 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
Lotta good ones, but I think I'd have to go with Lucky Streaks in tuolumne. 5 or 6 pitches, .10c.
|
|
|
|
|
blueeyedclimber
Jan 31, 2011, 12:19 AM
Post #3 of 86
(11304 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602
|
Too many to list, but a few stick out for different reasons: Epinepherine, Red Rocks, 5.9 Grand Wall, Squamish, 5.11a Rock On, Squamish, 5.10a Children's Crusade, North Conway, NH, 5.11a Moby Grape, Cannon cliff, NH, 5.8 Fat City Direct, Gunks, 5.10d and on and on...... Josh
|
|
|
|
|
enigma
Jan 31, 2011, 12:29 AM
Post #4 of 86
(11292 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 2279
|
caughtinside wrote: Lotta good ones, but I think I'd have to go with Lucky Streaks in tuolumne. 5 or 6 pitches, .10c. Tuolumne is a mellow area, I've climbed a few times there and always had a good time. Is it 10c throughout all the pitches or is it just one 5.10c move on Lucky Streaks?
|
|
|
|
|
enigma
Jan 31, 2011, 12:38 AM
Post #5 of 86
(11278 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 2279
|
blueeyedclimber wrote: Too many to list, but a few stick out for different reasons: Epinepherine, Red Rocks, 5.9 Grand Wall, Squamish, 5.11a Rock On, Squamish, 5.10a Children's Crusade, North Conway, NH, 5.11a Moby Grape, Cannon cliff, NH, 5.8 Fat City Direct, Gunks, 5.10d and on and on...... Josh Epinepherine , Quite Fun. There are alot of multi-pitch climbs in Red Rocks that are great. I haven't been back to the Gunks for a while. Though there are alot of ledges which makes it nice for a break or belay anchor. Never climbed in New Hampshire, but heard N.Conway is a popular area.
|
|
|
|
|
optic
Jan 31, 2011, 12:56 AM
Post #6 of 86
(11261 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 20, 2008
Posts: 13
|
enigma wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: Too many to list, but a few stick out for different reasons: Epinepherine, Red Rocks, 5.9 Grand Wall, Squamish, 5.11a Rock On, Squamish, 5.10a Children's Crusade, North Conway, NH, 5.11a Moby Grape, Cannon cliff, NH, 5.8 Fat City Direct, Gunks, 5.10d and on and on...... Josh Epinepherine , Quite Fun. There are alot of multi-pitch climbs in Red Rocks that are great. I haven't been back to the Gunks for a while. Though there are alot of ledges which makes it nice for a break or belay anchor. Never climbed in New Hampshire, but heard N.Conway is a popular area. New Hampshire is a shit place to climb. Everything is swarming with gumbies and all the rock is crap, short, and crumbly. The winters are harsh, cold, and barely navigable while the summers are short and full of ticks, black flies, mosquitoes, and people who don't belong out of the cities further south. I'm serious, it's a shitty place.
|
|
|
|
|
Gmburns2000
Jan 31, 2011, 1:03 AM
Post #7 of 86
(11251 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15266
|
Chrimson Chrysalis Birdland (RR) Birdland (Gunks) Arrow (Gunks) Ramblin' Rose (S. Platte) I'm sure there are more, but those are pretty much at the top of the list.
|
|
|
|
|
blueeyedclimber
Jan 31, 2011, 1:14 AM
Post #8 of 86
(11241 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602
|
optic wrote: enigma wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: Too many to list, but a few stick out for different reasons: Epinepherine, Red Rocks, 5.9 Grand Wall, Squamish, 5.11a Rock On, Squamish, 5.10a Children's Crusade, North Conway, NH, 5.11a Moby Grape, Cannon cliff, NH, 5.8 Fat City Direct, Gunks, 5.10d and on and on...... Josh Epinepherine , Quite Fun. There are alot of multi-pitch climbs in Red Rocks that are great. I haven't been back to the Gunks for a while. Though there are alot of ledges which makes it nice for a break or belay anchor. Never climbed in New Hampshire, but heard N.Conway is a popular area. New Hampshire is a shit place to climb. Everything is swarming with gumbies and all the rock is crap, short, and crumbly. The winters are harsh, cold, and barely navigable while the summers are short and full of ticks, black flies, mosquitoes, and people who don't belong out of the cities further south. I'm serious, it's a shitty place. Translation: I am either a NH native trying to keep enigma from visiting or got my ass whooped when I tried to climb there. Johs
|
|
|
|
|
vegastradguy
Jan 31, 2011, 1:33 AM
Post #9 of 86
(11227 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
|
Matthes Crest, Tuolomne Grand Wall, Squamish Adventure Punks, Red Rock Serenity/Sons, Yosemite Fiddler on the Roof, Red Rock All of these left a huge smile on my face- back up against the wall, i'd probably pick Fiddler above the rest, but it'd be a shame not to mention the others.
|
|
|
|
|
guangzhou
Jan 31, 2011, 1:45 AM
Post #10 of 86
(11210 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 3389
|
enigma wrote: I enjoy multi-pitch climbs and my favorite and longest was rock-on and then the ultimate everything. It was 17-18 pitches, from 5. 10a to 5.9. It was a day climb in Squamish. What was your favorite multi-pitch climb? Here we go again.
|
|
|
|
|
optic
Jan 31, 2011, 1:45 AM
Post #11 of 86
(11210 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 20, 2008
Posts: 13
|
blueeyedclimber wrote: optic wrote: enigma wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: Too many to list, but a few stick out for different reasons: Epinepherine, Red Rocks, 5.9 Grand Wall, Squamish, 5.11a Rock On, Squamish, 5.10a Children's Crusade, North Conway, NH, 5.11a Moby Grape, Cannon cliff, NH, 5.8 Fat City Direct, Gunks, 5.10d and on and on...... Josh Epinepherine , Quite Fun. There are alot of multi-pitch climbs in Red Rocks that are great. I haven't been back to the Gunks for a while. Though there are alot of ledges which makes it nice for a break or belay anchor. Never climbed in New Hampshire, but heard N.Conway is a popular area. New Hampshire is a shit place to climb. Everything is swarming with gumbies and all the rock is crap, short, and crumbly. The winters are harsh, cold, and barely navigable while the summers are short and full of ticks, black flies, mosquitoes, and people who don't belong out of the cities further south. I'm serious, it's a shitty place. Translation: I am either a NH native trying to keep enigma from visiting or got my ass whooped when I tried to climb there. Johs Translation: I'm one of those pricks from away who doesn't belong there.
|
|
|
|
|
gblauer
Moderator
Jan 31, 2011, 1:47 AM
Post #12 of 86
(11208 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 4, 2002
Posts: 2824
|
All 23 pitches of TIme Wave Zero, El Potrero Chico
|
|
|
|
|
blueeyedclimber
Jan 31, 2011, 1:51 AM
Post #13 of 86
(11199 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602
|
optic wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: optic wrote: enigma wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: Too many to list, but a few stick out for different reasons: Epinepherine, Red Rocks, 5.9 Grand Wall, Squamish, 5.11a Rock On, Squamish, 5.10a Children's Crusade, North Conway, NH, 5.11a Moby Grape, Cannon cliff, NH, 5.8 Fat City Direct, Gunks, 5.10d and on and on...... Josh Epinepherine , Quite Fun. There are alot of multi-pitch climbs in Red Rocks that are great. I haven't been back to the Gunks for a while. Though there are alot of ledges which makes it nice for a break or belay anchor. Never climbed in New Hampshire, but heard N.Conway is a popular area. New Hampshire is a shit place to climb. Everything is swarming with gumbies and all the rock is crap, short, and crumbly. The winters are harsh, cold, and barely navigable while the summers are short and full of ticks, black flies, mosquitoes, and people who don't belong out of the cities further south. I'm serious, it's a shitty place. Translation: I am either a NH native trying to keep enigma from visiting or got my ass whooped when I tried to climb there. Johs Translation: I'm one of those pricks from away who doesn't belong there. Hehe. From away? Away where? I grew up in NH but moved out. Now I only go back to climb.
|
|
|
|
|
enigma
Jan 31, 2011, 6:22 AM
Post #14 of 86
(11122 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 2279
|
vegastradguy wrote: Matthes Crest, Tuolomne Grand Wall, Squamish Adventure Punks, Red Rock Serenity/Sons, Yosemite Fiddler on the Roof, Red Rock All of these left a huge smile on my face- back up against the wall, i'd probably pick Fiddler above the rest, but it'd be a shame not to mention the others.
|
|
|
|
|
enigma
Jan 31, 2011, 6:30 AM
Post #15 of 86
(11116 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 2279
|
gblauer wrote: All 23 pitches of TIme Wave Zero, El Potrero Chico So how was that? I've never been to El Potrero Chico, How long did it take you? How's the rock? Very Impressive. Is that rated 5.11 or mixed moves? Excellent Accomplishment. Pictures?
|
|
|
|
|
guangzhou
Jan 31, 2011, 6:32 AM
Post #16 of 86
(11110 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 3389
|
enigma wrote: gblauer wrote: All 23 pitches of TIme Wave Zero, El Potrero Chico So how was that? I've never been to El Potrero Chico, How long did it take you? How's the rock? Very Impressive. Is that rated 5.11 or mixed moves? Excellent Accomplishment. Pictures? Enigma, you still make no sense to me.
|
|
|
|
|
enigma
Jan 31, 2011, 6:44 AM
Post #17 of 86
(11101 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 2279
|
Gmburns2000 wrote: Chrimson Chrysalis Birdland (RR) Birdland (Gunks) Arrow (Gunks) Ramblin' Rose (S. Platte) I'm sure there are more, but those are pretty much at the top of the list.
|
|
|
|
|
camhead
Jan 31, 2011, 1:09 PM
Post #18 of 86
(11048 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
|
I don't do much mutlipitch, so pretty much every route I've done is among the best. -Sendero Luminoso, Potrero (did not send the entire route, unfortunately) -Original Route of Rainbow Wall, Red Rocks Shorter Multipiches: -Nutcracker (yes, Nutcracker), best moderate multipitch I've ever done. -Fine Jade, Castle Valley -Cornflake Crack, Looking Glass Rock
|
|
|
|
|
blueeyedclimber
Jan 31, 2011, 1:19 PM
Post #19 of 86
(11043 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602
|
camhead wrote: I don't do much mutlipitch, so pretty much every route I've done is among the best. -Sendero Luminoso, Potrero (did not send the entire route, unfortunately) -Original Route of Rainbow Wall, Red Rocks Shorter Multipiches: - Nutcracker (yes, Nutcracker), best moderate multipitch I've ever done. -Fine Jade, Castle Valley -Cornflake Crack, Looking Glass Rock Ooh, I forgot that one. I agree. The one in Yosemite I assume you are talking about. I also forgot: On the Lamb, Tuolumne, 5.9 Erect Direction, Gunks, 5.10c Sour Mash, Red Rocks, 5.10a Sea Gypsy, Acadia, ME, 5.9+ Total Recall, North Conway, NH, 5.11b Book of Solemnity, North Conway, NH, 5.10a It's like asking me to pick a favorite child. Can't do it. Josh BTW, Enigma, Ghangzhou is right. Sometimes you make no sense and seem a little crazy. But you are positive and are starting to grow on me.
|
|
|
|
|
camhead
Jan 31, 2011, 1:26 PM
Post #20 of 86
(11039 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
|
guangzhou wrote: enigma wrote: gblauer wrote: All 23 pitches of TIme Wave Zero, El Potrero Chico So how was that? I've never been to El Potrero Chico, How long did it take you? How's the rock? Very Impressive. Is that rated 5.11 or mixed moves? Excellent Accomplishment. Pictures? Enigma, you still make no sense to me. Yeah, I'm not sure what she's asking about TWZ, either. I've done the route, it is really fun, and LONG, but the rock quality is not really up there for mega-classic status. The roite is all about quantity over quality.
|
|
|
|
|
kachoong
Jan 31, 2011, 2:27 PM
Post #21 of 86
(11002 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 23, 2004
Posts: 15304
|
Very tough to pick a favorite! In no particular order... although I guess it's the order my brain remembers them. Grand Wall, The Chief Cornerstone Rib, Warrumbungles Polar Circus, Icefields Parkway Surface to Air, Arapiles Peacemaker, Cochise Stronghold Angel's Crest, Squamish Ames Ice Hose, Telluride Extreme Youth, Booroomba Aphelion, Glasshouse Mountains Eurydice, Arapiles Ozymandias, Mt Buffalo
|
|
|
|
|
gblauer
Moderator
Jan 31, 2011, 2:35 PM
Post #22 of 86
(10995 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 4, 2002
Posts: 2824
|
enigma wrote: So how was that? I've never been to El Potrero Chico, How long did it take you? How's the rock? Very Impressive. Is that rated 5.11 or mixed moves? Excellent Accomplishment. Pictures? It took us about 12 hours door-to-door. It's about an hour approach to get to the base of the climb. We climbed relentlessly for hours, then you have to rappel the same 23 pitches. It's a really long day. The day we climbed it was 95 degrees with full sun. It's mostly 10's, but the 21st pitch is a 12a, a "stinger" at the end of a long climb.
|
|
|
|
|
potreroed
Jan 31, 2011, 4:19 PM
Post #23 of 86
(10963 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 30, 2001
Posts: 1454
|
Another vote for Fiddler On the Roof and Levitation 29 at Red Rocks. Rosy Crucifixion and Over the Hill in Eldorado Canyon. Multi-pitch is why I live in the Potrero Chico. Some favorites: Timewave Zero 23 pitches Voodoo Trance 10 pitches Treasure of the Sierra Madre 7 pitches Pancho Villa Rides Again 5 pitches Will the Wolf Survive 4 pitches Strokin' the Bishop 3 pitches
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Jan 31, 2011, 4:52 PM
Post #24 of 86
(10948 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
Unpossible to decide. Especially since most of the routes I remember fondly are because of the goings-on on the route, not the actual route. Like Agag's Groove on Bouchaille Etive Mhor, for some reason I always have a blast on that route. It's not a world class route, but I am always smiling on it. I also like climbing towers. Something about climbing something free-standing just makes it rad. I had such a blast on Bear's Reach with Lazlo that I think of the route highly, though I've heard people talk about it a little critically. Funny how the ambiance of the day/mood of the party can make shitty awkward grovelling feel like cool and funky moves, or sketchy run out stuff exciting or boring easy section relaxing and chilled. Edit to add some more fun routes: Finger's Ridge, Corrie an T'Schneacda, Caingorms. Pidgeon Spire, Bugaboos Haha, and a special mention for Burnsy of River Tower. One of the more hilarious excuses for climbing I've been involved in. HaHa!
(This post was edited by sungam on Jan 31, 2011, 5:00 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
pyrosis
Jan 31, 2011, 4:59 PM
Post #25 of 86
(10940 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 1, 2004
Posts: 150
|
I vote for Regular NW Face of Half Dome. I hope one day to be skilled enough to get the whole thing free.
|
|
|
|
|
LostinMaine
Jan 31, 2011, 5:04 PM
Post #26 of 86
(4066 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 8, 2007
Posts: 539
|
blueeyedclimber wrote: Moby Grape, Cannon cliff, NH, 5.8 This. Also: Madam G's (5.6) Gunks (puts High E to shame) Screaming Meanie (5.8ish) Roger's Rock (for the paddle and the company that day) Green Mountain Breakdown (5.9ish) Acadia (such a great roof pull) That's all for now.
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Jan 31, 2011, 5:28 PM
Post #27 of 86
(4052 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
enigma wrote: caughtinside wrote: Lotta good ones, but I think I'd have to go with Lucky Streaks in tuolumne. 5 or 6 pitches, .10c. Tuolumne is a mellow area, I've climbed a few times there and always had a good time. Is it 10c throughout all the pitches or is it just one 5.10c move on Lucky Streaks? It has a two or three move crux of .10c. Another 30 feet of 10a or so on the route. And like 600 feet of sustained 5.9.
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
Jan 31, 2011, 6:03 PM
Post #28 of 86
(4025 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
I guess if I had to decide I'd go with my most recent favorite: the Naked Edge. GO
|
|
|
|
|
moose_droppings
Jan 31, 2011, 7:41 PM
Post #29 of 86
(3991 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 3371
|
As much as I like the International Chimney route on Spire 3 for the perch on top, I'm going to go with the Conn Diagonal behind Sylvan Lake. Maybe it's because of all the different people I've taken up it or all the good times I've had on that route. It sticks out clearly in my mind when I think of fun.
|
|
|
|
|
Gmburns2000
Jan 31, 2011, 8:15 PM
Post #30 of 86
(3975 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15266
|
sungam wrote: Haha, and a special mention for Burnsy of River Tower. One of the more hilarious excuses for climbing I've been involved in. HaHa! I didn't enjoy the climb that much, so I didn't list it as a favorite, but as a favorite moment with two of my best friends, yeah, that was a memorable three days. Everything about those days, from push-starting the car, to the suddenly shifting rope, to the "Give me slack I'm going to jump" moments, to the tyrolean traverse: that was a fun time.
|
|
|
|
|
cchas
Jan 31, 2011, 8:28 PM
Post #31 of 86
(3969 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 9, 2005
Posts: 344
|
Shangri-la in Sedona. How many pitches.... well, in the guidebook its 5 (which I;'ve done it that way). Have also done it as a 3 pitch route and as a two pitch route. Belayed Mike when he did it without the bolts and am now wondering if you can do it as 2 pitches without the bolts. It has a bit of everything p1 tips crack but you heel hook and bump up an arete. p2: a stunning splitter offset flake p3: hard tips to powerful wide stems p4 fingers to tight hands p5 upto fists and the position in the canyon can't be beat
(This post was edited by cchas on Jan 31, 2011, 8:31 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
enigma
Feb 1, 2011, 7:08 AM
Post #32 of 86
(3915 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 2279
|
cchas wrote: Shangri-la in Sedona. How many pitches.... well, in the guidebook its 5 (which I;'ve done it that way). Have also done it as a 3 pitch route and as a two pitch route. Belayed Mike when he did it without the bolts and am now wondering if you can do it as 2 pitches without the bolts. It has a bit of everything p1 tips crack but you heel hook and bump up an arete. p2: a stunning splitter offset flake p3: hard tips to powerful wide stems p4 fingers to tight hands p5 upto fists and the position in the canyon can't be beat Sounds great! I always wanted to climb in Sedona it just looks beautiful. thanks
|
|
|
|
|
enigma
Feb 1, 2011, 7:41 AM
Post #33 of 86
(3908 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 2279
|
moose_droppings wrote: As much as I like the International Chimney route on Spire 3 for the perch on top, I'm going to go with the Conn Diagonal behind Sylvan Lake. Maybe it's because of all the different people I've taken up it or all the good times I've had on that route. It sticks out clearly in my mind when I think of fun. When is warm enough to climb there? Never been to South or North Dakota, Sounds like you have had some great times. Thanks for Info
|
|
|
|
|
rsmillbern
Feb 1, 2011, 10:03 AM
Post #34 of 86
(3895 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 29, 2005
Posts: 319
|
the last thing I climbed :-) The Daddy 5.6 (Linnville Gorge NC) is pretty good. I love taking newer climbers on this one. Große Micheluzzi 5.10a (Piz Ciavazes : Süd Tirol : Italy) was pretty nice as well. Grover 5.8 (Laurel Knob NC)
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Feb 1, 2011, 12:52 PM
Post #35 of 86
(3887 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
Gmburns2000 wrote: sungam wrote: Haha, and a special mention for Burnsy of River Tower. One of the more hilarious excuses for climbing I've been involved in. HaHa! I didn't enjoy the climb that much, so I didn't list it as a favorite, but as a favorite moment with two of my best friends, yeah, that was a memorable three days. Everything about those days, from push-starting the car, to the suddenly shifting rope, to the "Give me slack I'm going to jump" moments, to the tyrolean traverse: that was a fun time. An adventure for sure. "Wait, you're gunna what?" "Slack!" I've never been more proud of pathfinding then on the way out of there, either.
|
|
|
|
|
chadnsc
Feb 1, 2011, 5:24 PM
Post #37 of 86
(3862 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 24, 2003
Posts: 4449
|
Hard to pick but I'd say Conn Diagonal. Not the tallest or toughest but I like it.
|
|
|
|
|
erisspirit
Feb 1, 2011, 5:31 PM
Post #38 of 86
(3854 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 15, 2004
Posts: 3770
|
Sadly I don't have a lot of diversity yet in what multi pitch climbs I have done. I hope to fix this in the future of the climbs I have done so far, I would say my favorites were either Open Book or Whodunit in tahquitz.
|
|
|
|
|
edge
Feb 1, 2011, 5:32 PM
Post #39 of 86
(3854 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9120
|
My favorites list is pretty diverse. VMC Direct Direct on Cannon Stoners Highway, Yosemite Royal Arches to Crown Jewel, Yosemite Misty Beethoven, Yosemite Rosy Crucifixion to Italian Arete, Eldo Yellow Spur, Eldo Fat City, RMNP Exum Ridge, Le Grand Teton Wild Women, Cathedral Le Ticket, Le Rond, Le Carre, et La Lune, Chamonix Fafnir, Cannon To name a few
|
|
|
|
|
jupiter
Feb 1, 2011, 5:34 PM
Post #40 of 86
(3849 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 26, 2007
Posts: 17
|
In no particular order 1. Lone Star (11a, 21pitches by the book) Red Rock 2. Myopia (11a, 9p) Elephant's Perch 3. Positive Vibrations (11a, 12p or so) Incredible Hulk, Sierra Nevada 4. Sunshine Cracks (11a, 10p?) Bugaboos 5. Grand Wall (11a, 10p?) Squamish 6. Don Juan Wall (11b, 5p) Needles, Ca 7. Atlantis (11+, 4p) Needles, CA
|
|
|
|
|
jmeizis
Feb 1, 2011, 6:20 PM
Post #42 of 86
(3803 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 25, 2006
Posts: 635
|
That's tough to pick. I guess I'll go with these five in order from most favorite: Ramblin Rose 5.10a-S. Platte (awesome traverse on an easy flake to some in your face Platte slab climbing. Just really cool moves for a long time) Fastest Gun 5.10a-Poko-Moonshine (cool climbing with a move where you can just cut your feet and enjoy the exposure, cool style of climbing for me) Escape Artist 5.10a-Black Canyon (one of my first long multipitch "tens", just one of those cool moments of pushing doubt out of my head on something that was a little runout and at the time difficult for me to conceive of doing) Center Route 5.9-South Platte (super sustained and bomber jams for a long time makes for a pumpy climb. A really pretty area of the Platte) Wyrick-Merrel on River Tower 5.6 C2-Moab (although at the time of climbing I was sort of annoyed with the climb because I pretty much lead everything and we had to go back three days in a row for a freaking four pitch climb, we lost gear, and so on, it is one of the most memorable climbs ever aside from the North Face of Nez Perce. I don't want to ruin it but there's ancient hardware galore, nests of tiny gear in crap rock, easy runouts on really dangerous rock, wiggling fixed gear...oh and jumping. For full value I suggest taking someone who's never aid climbed before up it. The look of constant horror alone is worthwhile. Don't go in March either.) There's more that some have already mentioned: Yellow Spur, Irene's Arete, Full Exum Ridge, Whitney Gilman Ridge, New Era, Kor's Flake, Mainliner, Kor-Ingalls, Fine Jade, too many classics to name. Can't wait for the warm weather again.
|
|
|
|
|
Gmburns2000
Feb 2, 2011, 2:57 AM
Post #43 of 86
(3765 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15266
|
sungam wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: sungam wrote: Haha, and a special mention for Burnsy of River Tower. One of the more hilarious excuses for climbing I've been involved in. HaHa! I didn't enjoy the climb that much, so I didn't list it as a favorite, but as a favorite moment with two of my best friends, yeah, that was a memorable three days. Everything about those days, from push-starting the car, to the suddenly shifting rope, to the "Give me slack I'm going to jump" moments, to the tyrolean traverse: that was a fun time. An adventure for sure. "Wait, you're gunna what?" "Slack!" I've never been more proud of pathfinding then on the way out of there, either. I feel a bit foolish now that's he's also mentioned it as a favorite too. ^^
|
|
|
|
|
uni_jim
Feb 2, 2011, 3:39 AM
Post #44 of 86
(3752 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 27, 2008
Posts: 429
|
The Grand Sentinal, 5.8 - Banff The Nutcracker, 5.8 - Yosemite Wicked Wanda, W4 - The Ghost Louise Falls, W4+ - Banff Cascade Falls, W3 - Banff Can't realy "rate" how fun a route is, but there were BIG smiles on top of these.
|
|
|
|
|
cush
Feb 2, 2011, 6:32 AM
Post #45 of 86
(3731 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 2, 2008
Posts: 320
|
don't have too much experience on long routes. most of the routes at the gunks are only 1-2 pitches but gamesmanship on pokomoonshine in the dacks was fantastic, as was el matador on devil's tower.
|
|
|
|
|
michaelj2
Feb 2, 2011, 7:10 AM
Post #46 of 86
(3720 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 16, 2006
Posts: 27
|
My favorite climbs all mean something different to me, depending on where it was during my climbing evolution, who I was with, or if I wasn't with anyone. Some personal highlights: Positive Vibes, The Hulk Astroman, The Valley Wall of the Worlds, Cal Dome Beckey-Chouinard, The Bugs Nutcracker, The Valley (<20 mins) Freeway, Squamish The Vampire, Tahquitz Slipstream, Icefields Parkway Upper Weeping Wall, Icefields Parkway Full Exum, The Tetons (<11 hrs c2c, onsight)
|
|
|
|
|
enigma
Feb 2, 2011, 7:24 AM
Post #47 of 86
(3715 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 2279
|
edge wrote: My favorites list is pretty diverse. VMC Direct Direct on Cannon Stoners Highway, Yosemite Royal Arches to Crown Jewel, Yosemite Misty Beethoven, Yosemite Rosy Crucifixion to Italian Arete, Eldo Yellow Spur, Eldo Fat City, RMNP Exum Ridge, Le Grand Teton Wild Women, Cathedral Le Ticket, Le Rond, Le Carre, et La Lune, Chamonix Fafnir, Cannon To name a few Nice Variety, Boy you have been around !! thanks
|
|
|
|
|
enigma
Feb 2, 2011, 7:26 AM
Post #48 of 86
(3713 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 2279
|
curt wrote: caughtinside wrote: Lotta good ones, but I think I'd have to go with Lucky Streaks in tuolumne. 5 or 6 pitches, .10c. I'll give a second vote for Lucky Streaks. And I'll add Irene's Arete, 5.8. [img]http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/classicclimbs/Irenes-Arete.jpg[/img] On Disappointment Peak--in the Tetons. Curt Beautiful Photo - Arete's are great!!
|
|
|
|
|
guangzhou
Feb 2, 2011, 7:31 AM
Post #49 of 86
(3710 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 3389
|
Serenity to Sons of yesterday- Yosemite The Prow on Cathedral New Hampshire The Line at Lover's Leap Corn Flake Crack, Looking Glass Lurking Fear- Yosemite. One day, I will commit to trying a free ascent of this route Humanity Tonsai (Thailand) Tower I Spikul Indonesia Guide's Route Grand Tetons Loved them all
(This post was edited by guangzhou on Feb 2, 2011, 7:32 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
enigma
Feb 2, 2011, 7:39 AM
Post #50 of 86
(3702 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 2279
|
jmeizis wrote: That's tough to pick. I guess I'll go with these five in order from most favorite: Ramblin Rose 5.10a-S. Platte (awesome traverse on an easy flake to some in your face Platte slab climbing. Just really cool moves for a long time) Fastest Gun 5.10a-Poko-Moonshine (cool climbing with a move where you can just cut your feet and enjoy the exposure, cool style of climbing for me) Escape Artist 5.10a-Black Canyon (one of my first long multipitch "tens", just one of those cool moments of pushing doubt out of my head on something that was a little runout and at the time difficult for me to conceive of doing) Center Route 5.9-South Platte (super sustained and bomber jams for a long time makes for a pumpy climb. A really pretty area of the Platte) Wyrick-Merrel on River Tower 5.6 C2-Moab (although at the time of climbing I was sort of annoyed with the climb because I pretty much lead everything and we had to go back three days in a row for a freaking four pitch climb, we lost gear, and so on, it is one of the most memorable climbs ever aside from the North Face of Nez Perce. I don't want to ruin it but there's ancient hardware galore, nests of tiny gear in crap rock, easy runouts on really dangerous rock, wiggling fixed gear...oh and jumping. For full value I suggest taking someone who's never aid climbed before up it. The look of constant horror alone is worthwhile. Don't go in March either.) There's more that some have already mentioned: Yellow Spur, Irene's Arete, Full Exum Ridge, Whitney Gilman Ridge, New Era, Kor's Flake, Mainliner, Kor-Ingalls, Fine Jade, too many classics to name. Can't wait for the warm weather again. Thanks for the beta as well. Its always great to get before you are halfway up and hear this route is terrible. Especially when the guide book isn't helpful. Is Black Canyon your favorite area in Colorado? Did you ever climb that Painted Wall, that was a well written trip report though it sounded a little dicey to climb.
|
|
|
|
|
enigma
Feb 2, 2011, 7:43 AM
Post #51 of 86
(3337 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 2279
|
guangzhou wrote: Serenity to Sons of yesterday- Yosemite The Prow on Cathedral New Hampshire The Line at Lover's Leap Corn Flake Crack, Looking Glass Lurking Fear- Yosemite. One day, I will commit to trying a free ascent of this route Humanity Tonsai (Thailand) Tower I Spikul Indonesia Guide's Route Grand Tetons Loved them all Nice Mix, Now when climbers choose multi-pitch routes they can have a reference even in Indonesia and Thailand.
|
|
|
|
|
enigma
Feb 2, 2011, 7:46 AM
Post #52 of 86
(3335 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 2279
|
erisspirit wrote: Sadly I don't have a lot of diversity yet in what multi pitch climbs I have done. I hope to fix this in the future of the climbs I have done so far, I would say my favorites were either Open Book or Whodunit in tahquitz. You will! Now you have lists to help you pick climbers favorites
|
|
|
|
|
jmeizis
Feb 2, 2011, 3:33 PM
Post #53 of 86
(3314 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 25, 2006
Posts: 635
|
I don't know if I can say The Black is my favorite place. I've only been able to get out there once. It's just a really intense place with a lot of history and it's kind of ominous. Greg, it's one of those climbs where it doesn't have to be fun to be fun. Without other people there it would have just been some chossy nightmare but luckily we all could joke and whine about it together which made it a fun climb. Sort of like Epinephrine for you I think.
|
|
|
|
|
kachoong
Feb 2, 2011, 4:05 PM
Post #54 of 86
(3307 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 23, 2004
Posts: 15304
|
Sometimes it's the absolute fear and nightmare-giving intensity that leaves such an impression that it becomes a favorite climb. For me, some multipitch ice adventures and a couple rock routes left me with an admiration of the overall atmosphere of the route. Some routes in perfect conditions are completely different to the exact same route in adverse conditions and can make both experiences favorites... given both scenarios it's the adverse conditions, for me, that almost always become more memorable.
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Feb 2, 2011, 4:18 PM
Post #55 of 86
(3297 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
Hey, if we're switching from "favourite" to "memorable" then I have some additions. Drifting even further from the topic - one of my favourite days climbing was at a fairly shite. But the people I was with, and the shear amount of laughter made it a great time. I also think I took more falls that day then any other day climbing. Generally from someone shouting sage advice along the lines of "BE STRONG LIKE BEARRRR" or "The key to that section is to not have eaten so much last week". No other time have I been laughing too hard to shout "fall!".
|
|
|
|
|
kachoong
Feb 2, 2011, 4:27 PM
Post #56 of 86
(3288 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 23, 2004
Posts: 15304
|
sungam wrote: Hey, if we're switching from "favourite" to "memorable" then I have some additions. To me, most of the time, they are the same thing. Given a little time, the most memorable bad scenarios become my favorites mainly because of the experience and lessons I learned. Without them I wouldn't be the climber I am today.
|
|
|
|
|
Gmburns2000
Feb 2, 2011, 6:03 PM
Post #57 of 86
(3278 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15266
|
jmeizis wrote: I don't know if I can say The Black is my favorite place. I've only been able to get out there once. It's just a really intense place with a lot of history and it's kind of ominous. Greg, it's one of those climbs where it doesn't have to be fun to be fun. Without other people there it would have just been some chossy nightmare but luckily we all could joke and whine about it together which made it a fun climb. Sort of like Epinephrine for you I think. yeah, you're right about the fun of it: wyrick-merrill was definitely fun for the reasons noted. I still laugh at the "give me about five more feet of slack...I have to jump!" quote. Epi...still shakes my boots.
|
|
|
|
|
mattm
Feb 2, 2011, 7:07 PM
Post #58 of 86
(3268 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 20, 2003
Posts: 640
|
All of these have left me with that "shit eating grin" for HOURS after I was done. Cruel Shoes to Grand Wall - Squamish Borderline - Squamish Local Boys Do Good - Squam Dream Symphony - Squam Royal Arches to Crest Jewel (CTC in 10hrs)- Yos Infinite Bliss - WA Davis-Holland to Lovin' Arms - Index, WA Stanley-Burgner Route - Prusik Peak, WA Surrealistic Pillar to Corrugation Corner - The Leap Iron Way (I think) - Mt Lemmon Yellow Spur - Eldo Epinephrine - Red Rocks Yellow Brick Road - Red Rocks Directississima - Gunks Recompense with the Beast Var.- Cathedral Book of Solemnity - Cathedral Whitney-Gilman - Cannon
|
|
|
|
|
blueeyedclimber
Feb 2, 2011, 7:44 PM
Post #59 of 86
(3256 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602
|
mattm wrote: All of these have left me with that "shit eating grin" for HOURS after I was done. Cruel Shoes to Grand Wall - Squamish We did Apron Strings to Grand Wall, but didn't finish the Grand for a couple different reasons. Cruel shoes looks awesome too. Borderline - Squamish Looks like I have something new on my ticklist for next time. Local Boys Do Good - Squam Agreed Dream Symphony - Squam #2 on my new ticklist Royal Arches to Crest Jewel (CTC in 10hrs)- Yos I need to get back to Yosemite. So much to do. Infinite Bliss - WA Never been to WA Davis-Holland to Lovin' Arms - Index, WA Ditto Stanley-Burgner Route - Prusik Peak, WA Ditto Surrealistic Pillar to Corrugation Corner - The Leap Never been to the Leap Iron Way (I think) - Mt Lemmon Never been to Arizona Yellow Spur - Eldo I looked at this on my one and only trip there. Might have to put it on my list in my other thread. Epinephrine - Red Rocks Agreed. The route left me smiling. The descent left me cursing like a sailor. Yellow Brick Road - Red Rocks Haven't done. Directississima - Gunks One of my favorite pitches anywhere. Wish it were longer. Last time I was on it I tried to link it to the last pitch of Enduro man. Hung on it but thought it might go with some work. Recompense with the Beast Var.- Cathedral Agreed. One of the best 5.9's in the Northeast. Book of Solemnity - Cathedral Very cool route. Also too short. Whitney-Gilman - Cannon 5.7 Adventure climbing at it's best. Nice list. Josh
|
|
|
|
|
kachoong
Feb 2, 2011, 7:47 PM
Post #60 of 86
(3254 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 23, 2004
Posts: 15304
|
michaelj2 wrote: My favorite climbs all mean something different to me, depending on where it was during my climbing evolution, who I was with, or if I wasn't with anyone. Some personal highlights: Positive Vibes, The Hulk Astroman, The Valley Wall of the Worlds, Cal Dome Beckey-Chouinard, The Bugs Nutcracker, The Valley (<20 mins) Freeway, Squamish The Vampire, Tahquitz Slipstream, Icefields Parkway Upper Weeping Wall, Icefields Parkway Full Exum, The Tetons (<11 hrs c2c, onsight) I have always always always wanted to climb Slipstream. That's one hell of a line! I would also love to climb the Hulk... if I ever get to CA. It's an impressive chunk of rock.
|
|
|
|
|
blueeyedclimber
Feb 2, 2011, 8:07 PM
Post #61 of 86
(3248 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602
|
blueeyedclimber wrote: mattm wrote: All of these have left me with that "shit eating grin" for HOURS after I was done. Cruel Shoes to Grand Wall - Squamish We did Apron Strings to Grand Wall, but didn't finish the Grand for a couple different reasons. Cruel shoes looks awesome too. Borderline - Squamish Looks like I have something new on my ticklist for next time. Local Boys Do Good - Squam Agreed Dream Symphony - Squam #2 on my new ticklist Royal Arches to Crest Jewel (CTC in 10hrs)- Yos I need to get back to Yosemite. So much to do. Infinite Bliss - WA Never been to WA Davis-Holland to Lovin' Arms - Index, WA Ditto Stanley-Burgner Route - Prusik Peak, WA Ditto Surrealistic Pillar to Corrugation Corner - The Leap Never been to the Leap Iron Way (I think) - Mt Lemmon Never been to Arizona Yellow Spur - Eldo I looked at this on my one and only trip there. Might have to put it on my list in my other thread. Epinephrine - Red Rocks Agreed. The route left me smiling. The descent left me cursing like a sailor. Yellow Brick Road - Red Rocks Haven't done. Directississima - Gunks One of my favorite pitches anywhere. Wish it were longer. Last time I was on it I tried to link it to the last pitch of Enduro man. Hung on it but thought it might go with some work. Recompense with the Beast Var.- Cathedral Agreed. One of the best 5.9's in the Northeast. Book of Solemnity - Cathedral Very cool route. Also too short. Whitney-Gilman - Cannon 5.7 Adventure climbing at it's best. Nice list. Josh Actually it was the Naked Edge that I look at in Eldo, but Yellow Spur looks awesome too. A couple more additions to my list: Rosy Crucifixion to Alice in Bucketland in Eldo Bastille Crack in Eldo Josh
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
Feb 2, 2011, 8:25 PM
Post #62 of 86
(3241 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
blueeyedclimber wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: mattm wrote: All of these have left me with that "shit eating grin" for HOURS after I was done. Cruel Shoes to Grand Wall - Squamish We did Apron Strings to Grand Wall, but didn't finish the Grand for a couple different reasons. Cruel shoes looks awesome too. Borderline - Squamish Looks like I have something new on my ticklist for next time. Local Boys Do Good - Squam Agreed Dream Symphony - Squam #2 on my new ticklist Royal Arches to Crest Jewel (CTC in 10hrs)- Yos I need to get back to Yosemite. So much to do. Infinite Bliss - WA Never been to WA Davis-Holland to Lovin' Arms - Index, WA Ditto Stanley-Burgner Route - Prusik Peak, WA Ditto Surrealistic Pillar to Corrugation Corner - The Leap Never been to the Leap Iron Way (I think) - Mt Lemmon Never been to Arizona Yellow Spur - Eldo I looked at this on my one and only trip there. Might have to put it on my list in my other thread. Epinephrine - Red Rocks Agreed. The route left me smiling. The descent left me cursing like a sailor. Yellow Brick Road - Red Rocks Haven't done. Directississima - Gunks One of my favorite pitches anywhere. Wish it were longer. Last time I was on it I tried to link it to the last pitch of Enduro man. Hung on it but thought it might go with some work. Recompense with the Beast Var.- Cathedral Agreed. One of the best 5.9's in the Northeast. Book of Solemnity - Cathedral Very cool route. Also too short. Whitney-Gilman - Cannon 5.7 Adventure climbing at it's best. Nice list. Josh Actually it was the Naked Edge that I look at in Eldo, but Yellow Spur looks awesome too. A couple more additions to my list: Rosy Crucifixion to Alice in Bucketland in Eldo Bastille Crack in Eldo Josh Get strong and I'll do Naked Edge with you next time you come visit. GO
|
|
|
|
|
blueeyedclimber
Feb 2, 2011, 8:28 PM
Post #63 of 86
(3238 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602
|
cracklover wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: mattm wrote: All of these have left me with that "shit eating grin" for HOURS after I was done. Cruel Shoes to Grand Wall - Squamish We did Apron Strings to Grand Wall, but didn't finish the Grand for a couple different reasons. Cruel shoes looks awesome too. Borderline - Squamish Looks like I have something new on my ticklist for next time. Local Boys Do Good - Squam Agreed Dream Symphony - Squam #2 on my new ticklist Royal Arches to Crest Jewel (CTC in 10hrs)- Yos I need to get back to Yosemite. So much to do. Infinite Bliss - WA Never been to WA Davis-Holland to Lovin' Arms - Index, WA Ditto Stanley-Burgner Route - Prusik Peak, WA Ditto Surrealistic Pillar to Corrugation Corner - The Leap Never been to the Leap Iron Way (I think) - Mt Lemmon Never been to Arizona Yellow Spur - Eldo I looked at this on my one and only trip there. Might have to put it on my list in my other thread. Epinephrine - Red Rocks Agreed. The route left me smiling. The descent left me cursing like a sailor. Yellow Brick Road - Red Rocks Haven't done. Directississima - Gunks One of my favorite pitches anywhere. Wish it were longer. Last time I was on it I tried to link it to the last pitch of Enduro man. Hung on it but thought it might go with some work. Recompense with the Beast Var.- Cathedral Agreed. One of the best 5.9's in the Northeast. Book of Solemnity - Cathedral Very cool route. Also too short. Whitney-Gilman - Cannon 5.7 Adventure climbing at it's best. Nice list. Josh Actually it was the Naked Edge that I look at in Eldo, but Yellow Spur looks awesome too. A couple more additions to my list: Rosy Crucifixion to Alice in Bucketland in Eldo Bastille Crack in Eldo Josh Get strong and I'll do Naked Edge with you next time you come visit. GO What are you implying?
|
|
|
|
|
mattm
Feb 2, 2011, 9:11 PM
Post #64 of 86
(3224 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 20, 2003
Posts: 640
|
blueeyedclimber wrote: mattm wrote: All of these have left me with that "shit eating grin" for HOURS after I was done. Cruel Shoes to Grand Wall - Squamish We did Apron Strings to Grand Wall, but didn't finish the Grand for a couple different reasons. Cruel shoes looks awesome too. Borderline - Squamish Looks like I have something new on my ticklist for next time. Local Boys Do Good - Squam Agreed Dream Symphony - Squam #2 on my new ticklist Royal Arches to Crest Jewel (CTC in 10hrs)- Yos I need to get back to Yosemite. So much to do. Infinite Bliss - WA Never been to WA Davis-Holland to Lovin' Arms - Index, WA Ditto Stanley-Burgner Route - Prusik Peak, WA Ditto Surrealistic Pillar to Corrugation Corner - The Leap Never been to the Leap Iron Way (I think) - Mt Lemmon Never been to Arizona Yellow Spur - Eldo I looked at this on my one and only trip there. Might have to put it on my list in my other thread. Epinephrine - Red Rocks Agreed. The route left me smiling. The descent left me cursing like a sailor. Yellow Brick Road - Red Rocks Haven't done. Directississima - Gunks One of my favorite pitches anywhere. Wish it were longer. Last time I was on it I tried to link it to the last pitch of Enduro man. Hung on it but thought it might go with some work. Recompense with the Beast Var.- Cathedral Agreed. One of the best 5.9's in the Northeast. Book of Solemnity - Cathedral Very cool route. Also too short. Whitney-Gilman - Cannon 5.7 Adventure climbing at it's best. Nice list. Josh Yep, I grew up in the East and everything listed is classic but short. That's the "draw" of the West. I could list more from Squamish but I didn't want to get too "one sided" The weather window is tough sometimes but I truly think Squamish is THE BEST Trad area in NA followed by Red Rocks.
|
|
|
|
|
blueeyedclimber
Feb 2, 2011, 9:57 PM
Post #65 of 86
(3198 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602
|
mattm wrote: Yep, I grew up in the East and everything listed is classic but short. That's the "draw" of the West. I could list more from Squamish but I didn't want to get too "one sided" The weather window is tough sometimes but I truly think Squamish is THE BEST Trad area in NA followed by Red Rocks. Once again, AGREED! Josh
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
Feb 2, 2011, 10:56 PM
Post #66 of 86
(3184 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
blueeyedclimber wrote: cracklover wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: mattm wrote: All of these have left me with that "shit eating grin" for HOURS after I was done. Cruel Shoes to Grand Wall - Squamish We did Apron Strings to Grand Wall, but didn't finish the Grand for a couple different reasons. Cruel shoes looks awesome too. Borderline - Squamish Looks like I have something new on my ticklist for next time. Local Boys Do Good - Squam Agreed Dream Symphony - Squam #2 on my new ticklist Royal Arches to Crest Jewel (CTC in 10hrs)- Yos I need to get back to Yosemite. So much to do. Infinite Bliss - WA Never been to WA Davis-Holland to Lovin' Arms - Index, WA Ditto Stanley-Burgner Route - Prusik Peak, WA Ditto Surrealistic Pillar to Corrugation Corner - The Leap Never been to the Leap Iron Way (I think) - Mt Lemmon Never been to Arizona Yellow Spur - Eldo I looked at this on my one and only trip there. Might have to put it on my list in my other thread. Epinephrine - Red Rocks Agreed. The route left me smiling. The descent left me cursing like a sailor. Yellow Brick Road - Red Rocks Haven't done. Directississima - Gunks One of my favorite pitches anywhere. Wish it were longer. Last time I was on it I tried to link it to the last pitch of Enduro man. Hung on it but thought it might go with some work. Recompense with the Beast Var.- Cathedral Agreed. One of the best 5.9's in the Northeast. Book of Solemnity - Cathedral Very cool route. Also too short. Whitney-Gilman - Cannon 5.7 Adventure climbing at it's best. Nice list. Josh Actually it was the Naked Edge that I look at in Eldo, but Yellow Spur looks awesome too. A couple more additions to my list: Rosy Crucifixion to Alice in Bucketland in Eldo Bastille Crack in Eldo Josh Get strong and I'll do Naked Edge with you next time you come visit. GO What are you implying? LOL. Maybe I'm just projecting. I'm sure as hell not strong enough to go do it right now. But if I knew you were coming, I'd get there. Not to make too big a deal of it, but I've been on 5.12 routes that were easier. GO
|
|
|
|
|
enigma
Feb 3, 2011, 6:44 AM
Post #67 of 86
(3161 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 2279
|
mattm wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: mattm wrote: All of these have left me with that "shit eating grin" for HOURS after I was done. Cruel Shoes to Grand Wall - Squamish We did Apron Strings to Grand Wall, but didn't finish the Grand for a couple different reasons. Cruel shoes looks awesome too. Borderline - Squamish Looks like I have something new on my ticklist for next time. Local Boys Do Good - Squam Agreed Dream Symphony - Squam #2 on my new ticklist Royal Arches to Crest Jewel (CTC in 10hrs)- Yos I need to get back to Yosemite. So much to do. Infinite Bliss - WA Never been to WA Davis-Holland to Lovin' Arms - Index, WA Ditto Stanley-Burgner Route - Prusik Peak, WA Ditto Surrealistic Pillar to Corrugation Corner - The Leap Never been to the Leap Iron Way (I think) - Mt Lemmon Never been to Arizona Yellow Spur - Eldo I looked at this on my one and only trip there. Might have to put it on my list in my other thread. Epinephrine - Red Rocks Agreed. The route left me smiling. The descent left me cursing like a sailor. Yellow Brick Road - Red Rocks Haven't done. Directississima - Gunks One of my favorite pitches anywhere. Wish it were longer. Last time I was on it I tried to link it to the last pitch of Enduro man. Hung on it but thought it might go with some work. Recompense with the Beast Var.- Cathedral Agreed. One of the best 5.9's in the Northeast. Book of Solemnity - Cathedral Very cool route. Also too short. Whitney-Gilman - Cannon 5.7 Adventure climbing at it's best. Nice list. Josh Yep, I grew up in the East and everything listed is classic but short. That's the "draw" of the West. I could list more from Squamish but I didn't want to get too "one sided" The weather window is tough sometimes but I truly think Squamish is THE BEST Trad area in NA followed by Red Rocks. There's also alot of great multi-pitch climbs in Lovers Leap, 5.7-5.11. The rock is very unusual almost like there are patterns on it. We also forgot Smith Rocks , Monkey Face anyone? Mt Lemmon has so much as well, I only been there once but theres so much to climb. With different elevations. Yes with Yosemite and Tuolumne in the West you can climb forever . The Gunks will always be my first outside climbing and there is a nice feel to the area around New Paltz. . Thanks for sharing !!
|
|
|
|
|
enigma
Feb 3, 2011, 9:45 AM
Post #68 of 86
(3155 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 2279
|
sungam wrote: Unpossible to decide. Especially since most of the routes I remember fondly are because of the goings-on on the route, not the actual route. Like Agag's Groove on Bouchaille Etive Mhor, for some reason I always have a blast on that route. It's not a world class route, but I am always smiling on it. I also like climbing towers. Something about climbing something free-standing just makes it rad. I had such a blast on Bear's Reach with Lazlo that I think of the route highly, though I've heard people talk about it a little critically. Funny how the ambiance of the day/mood of the party can make shitty awkward grovelling feel like cool and funky moves, or sketchy run out stuff exciting or boring easy section relaxing and chilled. Edit to add some more fun routes: Finger's Ridge, Corrie an T'Schneacda, Caingorms. Pidgeon Spire, Bugaboos Haha, and a special mention for Burnsy of River Tower. One of the more hilarious excuses for climbing I've been involved in. HaHa! Wow Scotland -Just thinking is it the air there that allows a climber to fall 1000 ft and land on his feet!!JK I am interested in this bugaboos, let me tell you I climbed with this 15yr old teen boy that could lead amazingly he put his first piece 150ft from the ground,on rock on and was down to climb the entire grand wall and lead it himself through split and sword. Unbelievable climbed since 4, Anyway he said the bugaboos was great routes long approaches, What type of rock? is it desolate? Any photos?
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Feb 3, 2011, 11:49 AM
Post #69 of 86
(3150 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
Scotland has some rad routes but the weather can be an issue and nothing is really roadside. The bugs are rad, I don't have any photos cuz I lost my camera, though.
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Feb 3, 2011, 4:35 PM
Post #71 of 86
(3105 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
macherry wrote: sungam wrote: Scotland has some rad routes but the weather can be an issue and nothing is really roadside. The bugs are rad, I don't have any photos cuz I lost my camera, though. lost it!!! you forgot it at the hut!!!! Way to out me Marge. Yeah, I left it at the hut. Busted. You'd have thought someone would hand it in, though, no?
|
|
|
|
|
donald949
Feb 3, 2011, 6:06 PM
Post #72 of 86
(3085 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 24, 2007
Posts: 11455
|
sungam wrote: macherry wrote: sungam wrote: Scotland has some rad routes but the weather can be an issue and nothing is really roadside. The bugs are rad, I don't have any photos cuz I lost my camera, though. lost it!!! you forgot it at the hut!!!! Way to out me Marge. Yeah, I left it at the hut. Busted. You'd have thought someone would hand it in, though, no? Nope. But fer me. With out a doubt my favorite multi pitch. Tree Route, 5.6, Dome Rock. First 3 pitches, easy breazy fingerish crack. P4 up a short slab, 1 bolt to a small roof. Try to wiggle a stopper in. Pull the easy 5.6, but don't slip and your home free. Great day.
|
|
|
|
|
macherry
Feb 4, 2011, 1:40 AM
Post #73 of 86
(3062 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2003
Posts: 15848
|
sungam wrote: macherry wrote: sungam wrote: Scotland has some rad routes but the weather can be an issue and nothing is really roadside. The bugs are rad, I don't have any photos cuz I lost my camera, though. lost it!!! you forgot it at the hut!!!! Way to out me Marge. Yeah, I left it at the hut. Busted. You'd have thought someone would hand it in, though, no? bad form not to turn it in!!
|
|
|
|
|
kachoong
Feb 4, 2011, 1:41 AM
Post #74 of 86
(3060 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 23, 2004
Posts: 15304
|
macherry wrote: sungam wrote: macherry wrote: sungam wrote: Scotland has some rad routes but the weather can be an issue and nothing is really roadside. The bugs are rad, I don't have any photos cuz I lost my camera, though. lost it!!! you forgot it at the hut!!!! Way to out me Marge. Yeah, I left it at the hut. Busted. You'd have thought someone would hand it in, though, no? bad form not to turn it in!! How could you find an owner of a camera where all the pics are of sheep rear ends?
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Feb 4, 2011, 10:07 AM
Post #75 of 86
(3040 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
kachoong wrote: macherry wrote: sungam wrote: macherry wrote: sungam wrote: Scotland has some rad routes but the weather can be an issue and nothing is really roadside. The bugs are rad, I don't have any photos cuz I lost my camera, though. lost it!!! you forgot it at the hut!!!! Way to out me Marge. Yeah, I left it at the hut. Busted. You'd have thought someone would hand it in, though, no? bad form not to turn it in!! How could you find an owner of a camera where all the pics are of sheep rear ends? Darkside was there so some of this pictures had me in "them".
|
|
|
|
|
donald949
Feb 4, 2011, 5:07 PM
Post #76 of 86
(1755 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 24, 2007
Posts: 11455
|
sungam wrote: kachoong wrote: macherry wrote: sungam wrote: macherry wrote: sungam wrote: Scotland has some rad routes but the weather can be an issue and nothing is really roadside. The bugs are rad, I don't have any photos cuz I lost my camera, though. lost it!!! you forgot it at the hut!!!! Way to out me Marge. Yeah, I left it at the hut. Busted. You'd have thought someone would hand it in, though, no? bad form not to turn it in!! How could you find an owner of a camera where all the pics are of sheep rear ends? Darkside was there so some of this pictures had me in "them". Wholly double entandra batman but otherwise, maybe you should hit the cascade climbers forum.
|
|
|
|
|
bandycoot
Feb 4, 2011, 7:00 PM
Post #77 of 86
(1743 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 25, 2002
Posts: 2028
|
Here's a few that come to mind with good memories: The Rostrum, Yosemite Romantic Warrior, The Needles Snake Dike, Yosemite Royal Arches to Crest Jewel Direct, Yosemite The Vampire, Tahquitz Original Route on Rainbow Wall, Red Rocks Moonlight Buttress, Zion Mike Strassman Memorial Route, High Sierra The Totem Pole, Tasmania Lord of the Thais, Railay, Thailand Cloud Tower, Red Rocks 3rd Pillar of Mt. Dana, High Sierra Innersanctum to Airy Interlude, The Needles The Nose (IAD), Yosemite Astroman, Yosemite And so many more..... Josh
|
|
|
|
|
enigma
Feb 5, 2011, 1:34 AM
Post #78 of 86
(1729 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 2279
|
bandycoot wrote: Here's a few that come to mind with good memories: The Rostrum, Yosemite Romantic Warrior, The Needles Snake Dike, Yosemite Royal Arches to Crest Jewel Direct, Yosemite The Vampire, Tahquitz Original Route on Rainbow Wall, Red Rocks Moonlight Buttress, Zion Mike Strassman Memorial Route, High Sierra The Totem Pole, Tasmania Lord of the Thais, Railay, Thailand Cloud Tower, Red Rocks 3rd Pillar of Mt. Dana, High Sierra Innersanctum to Airy Interlude, The Needles The Nose (IAD), Yosemite Astroman, Yosemite And so many more..... Josh I would like to climb in Zion and the Needles, been invited several times, any recommendations for moderate mult-pitch 5.9- 5.10 b range? thanks
|
|
|
|
|
coastal_climber
Feb 5, 2011, 1:42 AM
Post #79 of 86
(1725 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 17, 2006
Posts: 2542
|
Rock on. ultimate everything sucks.
|
|
|
|
|
enigma
Feb 8, 2011, 4:41 AM
Post #80 of 86
(1699 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 2279
|
coastal_climber wrote: Rock on. ultimate everything sucks. Rock On is a great climb. I liked the variety in the ultimate everything.A crack pitch, a face climb, even an a little aid piece. There are so many multi-pitch climbs there, Did you climb Angels Crest? Any other liebacks you recommend? I did one 5.10b as a lieback my fingers were able to fit in the crack. I have to look up the name in my Squamish Book.
|
|
|
|
|
redonkulus
Feb 8, 2011, 5:06 AM
Post #81 of 86
(1690 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 2, 2010
Posts: 216
|
Southwest Rib of South Early Winter's Spire, Washington Pass, 5.8 Humanality, Tonsai Beach, Thailand, 10d Both pretty fun.
|
|
|
|
|
coastal_climber
Feb 8, 2011, 5:54 PM
Post #82 of 86
(1673 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 17, 2006
Posts: 2542
|
enigma wrote: coastal_climber wrote: Rock on. ultimate everything sucks. Rock On is a great climb. I liked the variety in the ultimate everything.A crack pitch, a face climb, even an a little aid piece. There are so many multi-pitch climbs there, Did you climb Angels Crest? Any other liebacks you recommend? I did one 5.10b as a lieback my fingers were able to fit in the crack. I have to look up the name in my Squamish Book. Angels is good. Cool traversing climbing on the ribs at the top. You did aid on U.E.? not the .10b traverse? You can layback on lots of routes in squish, no good ones come to mind tho.
|
|
|
|
|
kachoong
Feb 8, 2011, 6:22 PM
Post #83 of 86
(1670 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 23, 2004
Posts: 15304
|
coastal_climber wrote: enigma wrote: coastal_climber wrote: Rock on. ultimate everything sucks. Rock On is a great climb. I liked the variety in the ultimate everything.A crack pitch, a face climb, even an a little aid piece. There are so many multi-pitch climbs there, Did you climb Angels Crest? Any other liebacks you recommend? I did one 5.10b as a lieback my fingers were able to fit in the crack. I have to look up the name in my Squamish Book. Angels is good. Cool traversing climbing on the ribs at the top. You did aid on U.E.? not the .10b traverse? You can layback on lots of routes in squish, no good ones come to mind tho. From memory some routes with laybacking include Split pillar, Caboose, Kangaroo Corner, Freeway, Golden Labs, Cruel Shoes...
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Feb 8, 2011, 6:44 PM
Post #84 of 86
(1662 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
kachoong wrote: coastal_climber wrote: enigma wrote: coastal_climber wrote: Rock on. ultimate everything sucks. Rock On is a great climb. I liked the variety in the ultimate everything.A crack pitch, a face climb, even an a little aid piece. There are so many multi-pitch climbs there, Did you climb Angels Crest? Any other liebacks you recommend? I did one 5.10b as a lieback my fingers were able to fit in the crack. I have to look up the name in my Squamish Book. Angels is good. Cool traversing climbing on the ribs at the top. You did aid on U.E.? not the .10b traverse? You can layback on lots of routes in squish, no good ones come to mind tho. From memory some routes with laybacking include Split pillar, Caboose, Kangaroo Corner, Freeway, Golden Labs, Cruel Shoes... Hey, that's you!
|
|
|
|
|
enigma
Feb 9, 2011, 6:59 AM
Post #85 of 86
(1637 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 2279
|
coastal_climber wrote: enigma wrote: coastal_climber wrote: Rock on. ultimate everything sucks. Rock On is a great climb. I liked the variety in the ultimate everything.A crack pitch, a face climb, even an a little aid piece. There are so many multi-pitch climbs there, Did you climb Angels Crest? Any other liebacks you recommend? I did one 5.10b as a lieback my fingers were able to fit in the crack. I have to look up the name in my Squamish Book. Angels is good. Cool traversing climbing on the ribs at the top. You did aid on U.E.? not the .10b traverse? You can layback on lots of routes in squish, no good ones come to mind tho. I climbed cruel shoes, apron strings, and the flake and many others. There are so many climbs there its amazing. As well as different areas. I also climbed in Checkamus- with a group of climbers when it rained in Squish. When I did the ultimate everything- I did the aid, because I had to clean gear. I guess you have to wait till spring now. You can always go to Josh for a change of place. Its warm enough in South California almost every day to climb. Thanks for your reply. I never did the split pillar and the sword. Next time!
|
|
|
|
|
coastal_climber
Feb 11, 2011, 5:07 AM
Post #86 of 86
(1609 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 17, 2006
Posts: 2542
|
enigma wrote: coastal_climber wrote: enigma wrote: coastal_climber wrote: Rock on. ultimate everything sucks. Rock On is a great climb. I liked the variety in the ultimate everything.A crack pitch, a face climb, even an a little aid piece. There are so many multi-pitch climbs there, Did you climb Angels Crest? Any other liebacks you recommend? I did one 5.10b as a lieback my fingers were able to fit in the crack. I have to look up the name in my Squamish Book. Angels is good. Cool traversing climbing on the ribs at the top. You did aid on U.E.? not the .10b traverse? You can layback on lots of routes in squish, no good ones come to mind tho. I climbed cruel shoes, apron strings, and the flake and many others. There are so many climbs there its amazing. As well as different areas. I also climbed in Checkamus- with a group of climbers when it rained in Squish. When I did the ultimate everything- I did the aid, because I had to clean gear. I guess you have to wait till spring now. You can always go to Josh for a change of place. Its warm enough in South California almost every day to climb. Thanks for your reply. I never did the split pillar and the sword. Next time! Send me a message next time your up and we'll do some climbing.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|