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Cprosser16


Feb 24, 2011, 4:02 AM
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Tree Anchor Q's
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I am fairly new to rock climbing. I have been climbing indoors for a while and I have climbed outdoors with family in Alaska, but I got the gear I need and now I want to go out and climb with my own anchors at the only semi-decent outdoor location near where I am. There are only sport bolts, no top roping bolts on the established climbs. So it necessary for tree anchors.

Question I have is, do I need to do more than one tree anchor per climb? All the trees are bomber, at least 1.5 to 2 ft in diameter, all extremely healthy and well rooted. The problem I can see from the times I have been to the location is that there is only one decent tree at a decent angle for each climb. To set up another tree anchor for redundancy would take about 50 ft of extension from the further away tree, in addition to the distance between the trees the angles would be extremely bad for the force exerted on the webbing, it would be close to a 100% of the force if not more. Would it be safe enough to set up one tree anchor that is well made on an excellent tree and extended over the edge of the cliff? (I know how to make the anchors, I have done it before with my family, but all of those had easy to use trees in easy to use places.)

Another side question, what do you guys think is the limit that a tree should be used for a climb? There are a few more tree closer to where each climber anchor is set up, but they are smaller in diameter, maybe 4-8 inches.


qwert


Feb 24, 2011, 10:48 AM
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While redundancy is generally a good thing, there are time when it simply is not neccessary, or will not work.

And i would dare to say that 2ft trees are one of those cases.

What do you guess will happen when one of the big trees you anchored to will fail?

A few tonnes of wood will fall down towards the earth or the cliff side. I havent yet calculated it or measured it, but falling trees produce quite a lot of force. I have managed to knock over other trees with a falling tree, or to simply completely unroot them, so i guess there is a lot of force involved.

And even if your backup tree and the conncetion to it withstands the other trees fall, try to imagine what will happen if said tree still connected to the other tree swipes over the cliffside.

Again, i havent calculated it, but i imagine a bloody smear all over the cliff, that once was a climber ...

qwert


viciado


Feb 24, 2011, 11:00 AM
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Re: [qwert] Tree Anchor Q's [In reply to]
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Qwert, that was an artful reply rotfl.

OP - A BFT (Big Fat Tree) is generally enough for Top Rope. Give attention to how your rope passes over the edge and provide proper edge protection and or extension as necessary to avoid rope on sharp edges and excess friction against the rock face.

If you have doubts (as indicated in your post,) you will really benefit from asking someone with experience to show you how they would do it. It sounds like there are folks around that could help you out!


Partner j_ung


Feb 24, 2011, 11:57 AM
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Assuming the 2' tree is as BF as you say, there's no problem. Make sure your anchor material is redundant, pad sharp edges and climb on.


sherpa79


Feb 24, 2011, 12:14 PM
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Look at it in another way, a large tree weighs a LOT. Even if the tree were to fail, so long as it didn't physically fall over the cliff edge, or break in half and send a bunch of heavy shrapnel your way etc., and provided your rope or anchor material survived, you'd still be alive. The fact is when the tree is on the ground it weighs just as muchWink You couldn't possibly move that much around. If the tree failed away from the cliffs edge you might find yourself getting to the top a little faster than anticipated! Shocked So redundancy isn't really necessary.

Not that I recommend anchoring to falling trees. They are notoriously hard to catch.

As far as the smallest diameter "acceptable" most of the time you just use the best thing available in an appropriate spot.
Usually I say if it's alive and as big as your thigh, you don't have to worry about it. With smaller trees, especially those right on the cliff's edge the health and species may make a difference as might the soil matrix around it. Learn a little about your local flora. Ask other climbers, etc. Have fun.


sungam


Feb 24, 2011, 12:22 PM
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Re: [qwert] Tree Anchor Q's [In reply to]
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qwert wrote:
While redundancy is generally a good thing, there are time when it simply is not neccessary, or will not work.

And i would dare to say that 2ft trees are one of those cases.

What do you guess will happen when one of the big trees you anchored to will fail?

A few tonnes of wood will fall down towards the earth or the cliff side. I havent yet calculated it or measured it, but falling trees produce quite a lot of force. I have managed to knock over other trees with a falling tree, or to simply completely unroot them, so i guess there is a lot of force involved.

And even if your backup tree and the conncetion to it withstands the other trees fall, try to imagine what will happen if said tree still connected to the other tree swipes over the cliffside.

Again, i havent calculated it, but i imagine a bloody smear all over the cliff, that once was a climber ...

qwert

The translation sucks a little but here is a report of some Norwegian climbers that ripped one of the trees in their anchor. They weren't 2-footers but pretty sizable (at least a foot). Carnage.


http://www.ClimbNorway.blogspot.com/2008/april/23/zeefernfailen


Lbrombach


Feb 24, 2011, 1:50 PM
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I'd use the BFT, no prob. I would still use two sets of everything just as if I were rigging two smaller trees. As for the 4-8 inch trees... 4 is on the small side to be the only anchor, but it might be one of two anchors if I evaluate it and decide its ok.


chadnsc


Feb 24, 2011, 3:05 PM
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Assuming each tree is alive, with good root structure, and is solidly attached into the ground . . . .

Trees under 7" diameter - at least three

Trees 10"-18" in diameter - two

Trees over 24" in diameter - one could be fine


Keep in mind you’ll want to sling each tree as low to the base / ground as possible. Also keep in mind that this is only my personal opinion which is based on my experience where I climb with the species of trees that I use as anchors.


ClimbSoHigh


Feb 24, 2011, 5:25 PM
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You might want to note that large diameter trees doesn't mean it is always a bomber tree. Check to make sure it is not dead or rotting, deased, or poorly rooted. If you have any doubt, give it a good shake to see if it moves at all. I have heard stories of 2 foot + thick trees being pulled out by hand when rotted or poorly rooted. Sometimes I will use a smaller tree to anchor with because the available larger tree looked suspect.

"Climbing Anchors" by John Long has a great writeup about natural anchor points, and a pretty in depth analasys of using trees as protection. If you havn't already, you might want to give it a read, even if you are only top roping.


wwalt822


Feb 24, 2011, 5:37 PM
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chadnsc wrote:
Assuming each tree is alive, with good root structure, and is solidly attached into the ground . . . .

Trees under 7" diameter - at least three

Trees 10"-18" in diameter - two

Trees over 24" in diameter - one could be fine


Keep in mind you’ll want to sling each tree as low to the base / ground as possible. Also keep in mind that this is only my personal opinion which is based on my experience where I climb with the species of trees that I use as anchors.

A 7 inch tree that is well rooted is pretty damn strong. I'd be ok with just one if nothing else was close by.


(This post was edited by wwalt822 on Feb 24, 2011, 5:37 PM)


Adk


Feb 24, 2011, 5:46 PM
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chadnsc wrote:
Assuming each tree is alive, with good root structure, and is solidly attached into the ground . . . .

Trees under 7" diameter - at least three

Trees 10"-18" in diameter - two

Trees over 24" in diameter - one could be fine


Keep in mind you’ll want to sling each tree as low to the base / ground as possible. Also keep in mind that this is only my personal opinion which is based on my experience where I climb with the species of trees that I use as anchors.

I've ripped trees, thousands of trees at that, out of the ground with heavy equipment and will say this.

Good ground, good tree, one 7" tree will hold any fall!!!!!!
The problem is that you are not an expert at guessing the strength of the rooting abilities of a tree.
Just look at the tree first. and think about the ground the tree is rooted in. Anchor low and go for it!

When trees are < 3" in diameter I will use three depending on where they are located in proximity to one another. I know less will hold yet it makes others feel better to see more.


jeepnphreak


Feb 24, 2011, 6:09 PM
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Well I have a short story about that.

Our neighbor had a pine that had pine bark beetle and was dying. The tree was a bit smaller that a foot across. So he decided to hitch up his 1 ton new Chevy diesel truck to the tree with a chain and yank the tree out of the ground.
To which proceeded to break the ujoint on the front drive shaft and bend the frame. The tree was un budged from the ground and it was half dead.

Moral of the story is a tree makes a fine climbing anchor.

I have used trees about 6 inches for slack lining anchors and never had one fall over. That puts a crap load of force on a tree.


kovacs69


Feb 24, 2011, 7:19 PM
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Here is a question for you guys along the same lines.

How many of you would use overhanging branches as an anchor top belay or top rope?

Here is the situation.

We have a free-standing sandstone boulder about 40 feet tall. The start park does not allow bolts of any type. We climb the boulder which has 4 fairly popular routes and then use a couple of the overhanging pine tree branches for a top rope anchor. Then when done we clean up and rap down from them.

The branches are huge and we use up to 3 of them for the setup but they are 4+ feet from the trunk.

How many of you would use this set-up?

JB


chadnsc


Feb 24, 2011, 8:06 PM
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Adk wrote:
chadnsc wrote:
Assuming each tree is alive, with good root structure, and is solidly attached into the ground . . . .

Trees under 7" diameter - at least three

Trees 10"-18" in diameter - two

Trees over 24" in diameter - one could be fine


Keep in mind you’ll want to sling each tree as low to the base / ground as possible. Also keep in mind that this is only my personal opinion which is based on my experience where I climb with the species of trees that I use as anchors.

I've ripped trees, thousands of trees at that, out of the ground with heavy equipment and will say this.

Good ground, good tree, one 7" tree will hold any fall!!!!!!
The problem is that you are not an expert at guessing the strength of the rooting abilities of a tree.
Just look at the tree first. and think about the ground the tree is rooted in. Anchor low and go for it!

When trees are < 3" in diameter I will use three depending on where they are located in proximity to one another. I know less will hold yet it makes others feel better to see more.

Where I climb on the north shore of MN the trees are predominantly birch with small red and white pine. The trees roots atop these cliffs are generally exposed in shallow soil (less than 6") or grown directly into the rock.


The thing to take away from this is different climbing areas have different tress with varying degree of root structure.


Partner cracklover


Feb 24, 2011, 8:43 PM
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Ugh... typical half-assed responses.

One big tree is plenty strong enough. Your problem is that if the route wanders, you will be scraping the TR anchor rope or webbing all over the place. If the lip of the clifftop has any sharp edges, your anchor rope will certainly get hung up on it.

Much better to do something like this:



The blue line is the anchor material, the red is the climbing rope.

The small tree is what's known as a "directional". If you set it up right the little tree won't have to hold much force (a little less than half) but it will keep the anchor material from moving around over the clifftop.

Cheers,

GO


kovacs69


Feb 24, 2011, 8:47 PM
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cracklover wrote:
Ugh... typical half-assed responses.

One big tree is plenty strong enough. Your problem is that if the route wanders, you will be scraping the TR anchor rope or webbing all over the place. If the lip of the clifftop has any sharp edges, your anchor rope will certainly get hung up on it.

Much better to do something like this:

[IMG]http://i51.tinypic.com/294mjvk.jpg[/IMG]

The blue line is the anchor material, the red is the climbing rope.

The small tree is what's known as a "directional". If you set it up right the little tree won't have to hold much force (a little less than half) but it will keep the anchor material from moving around over the clifftop.

Cheers,

GO

Nice Majid style drawing all you are missing are the little army men and arrows.

JB


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Feb 24, 2011, 8:48 PM
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Don't take this lightly. One swinging fall could mean curtains. It's very easy to cut a rope under tension.

Edited to add the following quote from a guy who makes ropes at Sterling. This is in regards to the "sharp edge test" used to certify some ropes:

In reply to:
After the edge standard was introduced I did a bunch of tests using an actual piece of broken granite as the edge. Even with a fall factor WAAAYYYY below 0.5 none of the certified ropes held. Later I resorted to simply lowering the 80kg onto the rope without dropping. Once the rope was fully loaded with the mass I allowed the rope to roll slightly across the edge. Again none of the ropes held. <snip> The broken piece of granite was pretty damned sharp but I could easily walk up to any granite cliff and find edges that are sharper.

GO


(This post was edited by cracklover on Feb 24, 2011, 9:08 PM)


Adk


Feb 24, 2011, 9:13 PM
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cracklover wrote:
Ugh... typical half-assed responses.

One big tree is plenty strong enough. Your problem is that if the route wanders, you will be scraping the TR anchor rope or webbing all over the place. If the lip of the clifftop has any sharp edges, your anchor rope will certainly get hung up on it.

Much better to do something like this:



The blue line is the anchor material, the red is the climbing rope.

The small tree is what's known as a "directional". If you set it up right the little tree won't have to hold much force (a little less than half) but it will keep the anchor material from moving around over the clifftop.

Cheers,

GO

When possible to avoid damaging a small tree's bark use a piece of pro in rock as a directional. The locals will appreciate you more from this angle as well.


ClimbSoHigh


Feb 24, 2011, 9:46 PM
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In reply to:
One swinging fall could mean curtains. It's very easy to cut a rope under tension

True dat and thanks for the email cut and paste, very informative. I always thought the edge rating was based on quite a large diameter edge (.75mm).

If you have sharp edges to deal with, use webbing instead of a rope. I learned that webbing is better under load over a sharp edge becasue the force is distributed across the entire inch of webbing, rather than focused on 1 very tiny point on a ropes sheath. Not to mention webbing is lighter and cheaper to replace.

In reply to:
Trees under 7" diameter - at least three

I've built a 2 leg TR anchor with a 2 inch diameter bomb-proof tree/shrub as 1 point, and a 2 equalized pink tricams as the second... But then I died!


Cprosser16


Feb 24, 2011, 10:04 PM
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Thanks all the info. The trees there are all very well rooted and very healthy. I have checked all the ones I would possibly use. I just need to go look again and see the location of the smaller ones in relation to the climbs and see if I could use them. I was under the impression that they had to be fairly large trees to be used. I was afraid to use anything smaller than a foot.

There is no problem with the scraping over the edges where I am, cracklover. There are rugs that people have left at the top of the climbs that are about 2 inches thick that you can place underneath the anchor setup to keep from it abrading any. I know not to place the rope over the edge, I said that in my response that I was extending the anchor set up over the cliff edge.

Again, thanks for all the info. Once it gets a bit warmer (not to mention drier, as I am typing this it is raining/sleeting) I am going to go out there and try out some of the trees and setup a few anchors. I am going to see if I can bring along someone from the local rock gyms who have set them up before to check my anchors before I use them.


patmay81


Feb 24, 2011, 10:09 PM
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sherpa79 wrote:
Look at it in another way, a large tree weighs a LOT. The fact is when the tree is on the ground it weighs just as muchWink You couldn't possibly move that much around. If the tree failed away from the cliffs edge you might find yourself getting to the top a little faster than anticipated! So redundancy isn't really necessary.

in a top rope scenario your anchor is holding the climber and belayers weight. you should not by any means anchor to a fallen tree.
look for a bfr, cracks for pro, etc.
Assume the tree weighs 1,000 lb (probably more, maybe less). I can personally move that much weight (rolling, dragging etc.) take into account that most cliffs have a slope at the top, you get gravity contributing.
If you find a dead tree lodged in a crevace or crack (acting like a chock), I'd be comfortable with that, but no free lying trees.
Its not a matter of weight, but possition and security of your BFT/BFR/BFA.

oh, and you wont pull a 2' diameter healthy tree to failure on a top rope anchor.


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Feb 24, 2011, 10:43 PM
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Cprosser16 wrote:
There is no problem with the scraping over the edges where I am, cracklover. There are rugs that people have left at the top of the climbs that are about 2 inches thick that you can place underneath the anchor setup to keep from it abrading any. I know not to place the rope over the edge, I said that in my response that I was extending the anchor set up over the cliff edge.

I was talking about the anchoring rope. I even drew you a diagram. Sheesh, how dense can you be?

And with a single anchor point and your anchor rope moving around, you can easily knock the rug off. But whatever, do as you please.

In reply to:
I am going to see if I can bring along someone from the local rock gyms who have set them up before to check my anchors before I use them.

There ya go. Maybe you'll listen to him.

Cheers,

GO


Cprosser16


Feb 24, 2011, 11:11 PM
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cracklover wrote:
Cprosser16 wrote:
There is no problem with the scraping over the edges where I am, cracklover. There are rugs that people have left at the top of the climbs that are about 2 inches thick that you can place underneath the anchor setup to keep from it abrading any. I know not to place the rope over the edge, I said that in my response that I was extending the anchor set up over the cliff edge.

I was talking about the anchoring rope. I even drew you a diagram. Sheesh, how dense can you be?

And with a single anchor point and your anchor rope moving around, you can easily knock the rug off. But whatever, do as you please.

In reply to:
I am going to see if I can bring along someone from the local rock gyms who have set them up before to check my anchors before I use them.

There ya go. Maybe you'll listen to him.

Cheers,

GO

I know you were talking about the anchor part of the system. Your drawing was unnecessary, it did not contribute to teaching me. I knew about the set up already. In the OP I just needed to know if using multiple trees was necessary. Plus I don't use rope for the anchor. I use webbing, around the tree and for extension. It is what I was taught to do, and what I am going to do. The only actual rope being used is the climbing rope.


Partner cracklover


Feb 25, 2011, 5:42 PM
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Cprosser16 wrote:
cracklover wrote:
Cprosser16 wrote:
There is no problem with the scraping over the edges where I am, cracklover. There are rugs that people have left at the top of the climbs that are about 2 inches thick that you can place underneath the anchor setup to keep from it abrading any. I know not to place the rope over the edge, I said that in my response that I was extending the anchor set up over the cliff edge.

I was talking about the anchoring rope. I even drew you a diagram. Sheesh, how dense can you be?

And with a single anchor point and your anchor rope moving around, you can easily knock the rug off. But whatever, do as you please.

In reply to:
I am going to see if I can bring along someone from the local rock gyms who have set them up before to check my anchors before I use them.

There ya go. Maybe you'll listen to him.

Cheers,

GO

I know you were talking about the anchor part of the system.

Oh really? Then what rope were you talking about when you said:

In reply to:
I know not to place the rope over the edge

Because if you knew I was talking about the anchor rope you'd realize that you *are* supposed to place it over the edge.

Anyway, you're still missing the point. Webbing may be better, but it can still get sliced if it moves around under tension. The point (which had not been mentioned until my post) is that if you don't have a second anchor point on your TR setup, with the two opposing each other, you add a significant risk of wearing through your anchor (webbing or rope) up top of the cliff. And this risk is occurring in the worst possible place - up top where you cannot easily monitor it as you are climbing over the course of the day.

I once had a self-belay system in which the anchor incorporated webbing around the bottom of a large boulder. Between when I set it up and when I came back to undo it a couple hours later, a sharp edge I hadn't noticed way under the bottom of the boulder had cut more than halfway through the military spec 1" webbing.

Look, if you know it all already, then please feel free to go do it. I thought you were interested in learning something.

Cheers,

GO


sp115


Feb 25, 2011, 6:07 PM
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cracklover wrote:
...Anyway, you're still missing the point. Webbing may be better, but it can still get sliced if it moves around under tension.

Yup, and I'm not convinced it is better than rope.

(see the last reply to this post on the other site)
http://www.mountainproject.com/...06990414#a_106990769


Partner cracklover


Feb 25, 2011, 6:28 PM
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Re: [sp115] Tree Anchor Q's [In reply to]
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sp115 wrote:
cracklover wrote:
...Anyway, you're still missing the point. Webbing may be better, but it can still get sliced if it moves around under tension.

Yup, and I'm not convinced it is better than rope.

(see the last reply to this post on the other site)
http://www.mountainproject.com/...06990414#a_106990769

Wow, thanks for that link! Pretty definitive, I'd say!

GO


taydude


Feb 25, 2011, 6:35 PM
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Re: [sungam] Tree Anchor Q's [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
qwert wrote:
While redundancy is generally a good thing, there are time when it simply is not neccessary, or will not work.

And i would dare to say that 2ft trees are one of those cases.

What do you guess will happen when one of the big trees you anchored to will fail?

A few tonnes of wood will fall down towards the earth or the cliff side. I havent yet calculated it or measured it, but falling trees produce quite a lot of force. I have managed to knock over other trees with a falling tree, or to simply completely unroot them, so i guess there is a lot of force involved.

And even if your backup tree and the conncetion to it withstands the other trees fall, try to imagine what will happen if said tree still connected to the other tree swipes over the cliffside.

Again, i havent calculated it, but i imagine a bloody smear all over the cliff, that once was a climber ...

qwert

The translation sucks a little but here is a report of some Norwegian climbers that ripped one of the trees in their anchor. They weren't 2-footers but pretty sizable (at least a foot). Carnage.


http://www.ClimbNorway.blogspot.com/2008/april/23/zeefernfailen

That was.... tricky... Mad


ClimbSoHigh


Feb 25, 2011, 7:25 PM
Post #28 of 45 (10103 views)
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Re: [taydude] Tree Anchor Q's [In reply to]
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Thanks SP!

This is an eye opener to me, as I was taught otherwise. I have heard from multiple climbers that webbing distributes the force better than rope, but this is not true according to this test. http://www.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/Qualifying_a_Rescue_Rope.pdf.

I stand corrected, and will inform my partners who taught me this. I wish I left in my original post that I had only learned this and have not seen any lab tests to support it. Now I have and am shocked at the severity of the results.

The conclusion of the report for thoese too lazy to read it is.. "The test results for webbing make very clear what we have known for a long time. For rock anchors, if there is any possibility that an anchor could shift when it is loaded, webbing should not be used. If it is used on rock, edges should be well padded."

The test performed though was testing webbing vs different 7/16 static lines which is clearly far superior. I would assume the 3/8 is also clearly supperior based on the strengh ratings specs, but I wonder how the test results would work with a similar rated cord say 8mm acc cord vs 1" tubular which are comperativly rated. The linked forum claims that the webbing is still significantly weaker than 8 mm cord but the test that was cited only compares 7/16 static ropes with 1" tubular webbing. The webbing did however last up to 1800 lbs of force for the dead weight cut test.

Thank you for the informative post. I tried to do a quick seach for tests between 8mm cord and 1" webbing and did not get anything, so I am taking the lazy way out and asking if anyone here knows of one? The physics of webbing dispersing the load over the entire inch compared to 1 small point still makes sense to me but I could still be very wrong.

I think I might go destroy some old 8mm cord and webbing for my own amusement and to see for myself. One thing I do know is that webbing is very popular for TR anchors and 8mm cord used as a single strand is not, so maybe the physics still holds true about the force distribution...


sp115


Feb 25, 2011, 7:37 PM
Post #29 of 45 (10097 views)
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Re: [cracklover] Tree Anchor Q's [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
sp115 wrote:
cracklover wrote:
...Anyway, you're still missing the point. Webbing may be better, but it can still get sliced if it moves around under tension.

Yup, and I'm not convinced it is better than rope.

(see the last reply to this post on the other site)
http://www.mountainproject.com/...06990414#a_106990769

Wow, thanks for that link! Pretty definitive, I'd say!

GO


Yeah, and completely counter to what I had been taught and heard repeated for years.


sherpa79


Feb 25, 2011, 8:32 PM
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Re: [patmay81] Tree Anchor Q's [In reply to]
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patmay81 wrote:
in a top rope scenario your anchor is holding the climber and belayers weight. you should not by any means anchor to a fallen tree.
look for a bfr, cracks for pro, etc.
Assume the tree weighs 1,000 lb (probably more, maybe less). I can personally move that much weight (rolling, dragging etc.) take into account that most cliffs have a slope at the top, you get gravity contributing.
If you find a dead tree lodged in a crevace or crack (acting like a chock), I'd be comfortable with that, but no free lying trees.
Its not a matter of weight, but possition and security of your BFT/BFR/BFA.

I wasn't suggesting using a fallen tree perse, just a thought experiment as to the types of forces involved. I was suggesting thinking moreso than any anchoring practice. Allthough, building a deadman anchor is a common skill in canyoneering and in snow. A thousand pound weight on the ground is nothing but, depending of course on its position, as you pointed out. I work as a professional arborist, with about 75% of my time on the climbing side of things. Believe me, I have plenty of experience moving heavy A$$ wood around Wink as well as dealing with the types of forces a tree can and can't take.

I will say, though, that a 2 inch tree is pretty small for a solitary TR anchor. Especially at any cliff line I've ever been to. Will it fail, maybe not, but as previously mentioned the depth of soil, species, and even the amount of rain recently can make a difference in small trees that are poorly rooted (as they can often be) right at a cliff's edge. I've partially uprooted stuff that big just by pulling on it while climbing through it. But, I've also slung 2" stuff along the way and felt confident in it.


esander4


Feb 25, 2011, 8:40 PM
Post #31 of 45 (10076 views)
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Re: [Cprosser16] Tree Anchor Q's [In reply to]
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Cprosser16 wrote:
Would it be safe enough to set up one tree anchor that is well made on an excellent tree and extended over the edge of the cliff?
In reply to:
I know not to place the rope over the edge
In reply to:
I know you were talking about the anchor part of the system. Your drawing was unnecessary, it did not contribute to teaching me. I knew about the set up already

Why ask if you already knew?
In reply to:
In the OP I just needed to know if using multiple trees was necessary.

And cracklover answered your question.
In reply to:
I know how to make the anchors

No, you don't. Period.


Cprosser16


Feb 27, 2011, 4:47 PM
Post #32 of 45 (10024 views)
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Re: [cracklover] Tree Anchor Q's [In reply to]
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First off, I see now there has been some confusion. Cracklover, you and I are talking about two different ropes, when talking about the anchor system you drew. I was talking about the climbing rope. I know not to have the climbing rope bent over the edge of the cliff in anyway. The anchor system I know is supposed to be extended over the edge for this very reason, but to keep the anchor WEBBING (not rope, therein lies the confusion) from abrading or slicing I am using rugs (large rugs) over the area that the webbing could move in. Although I don't suspect the webbing to move at all, the climbs I wish to climb are all fairly centered below the trees I am going to be use. The cliff too has no chance of slicing the webbing or rope. It is not so much a definite edge as it is an ever increasing slope the closer you get the the "edge".

Another thing, I know what you meant by your drawing and how you thought it would help, but the reason it didn't is because as I stated earlier, there are not any trees at the angle, or any angle close to that, in the area. At least none that would be good for anchoring. The area has about 10 good sized trees and 10 smaller trees with hundreds of saplings interspersed. I thank you for the drawing and the information, but what you have said does not apply to my specific situation.

As for esander4, who are you to say that I don't know how? I have made anchors before, just not with a single tree as the sole anchor. I have had someone who has 15+ years of climbing experience check my anchors when he taught me how to make them. We both used them to climb with. I know what I am doing. Period.

I have all the information that I originally asked for plus some, thanks to all those who ACTUALLY contributed.


USnavy


Feb 28, 2011, 7:41 AM
Post #33 of 45 (9970 views)
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Re: [cracklover] Tree Anchor Q's [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
Don't take this lightly. One swinging fall could mean curtains. It's very easy to cut a rope under tension.

Edited to add the following quote from a guy who makes ropes at Sterling. This is in regards to the "sharp edge test" used to certify some ropes:

In reply to:
After the edge standard was introduced I did a bunch of tests using an actual piece of broken granite as the edge. Even with a fall factor WAAAYYYY below 0.5 none of the certified ropes held. Later I resorted to simply lowering the 80kg onto the rope without dropping. Once the rope was fully loaded with the mass I allowed the rope to roll slightly across the edge. Again none of the ropes held. <snip> The broken piece of granite was pretty damned sharp but I could easily walk up to any granite cliff and find edges that are sharper.

GO
Who and where was that said?


JimTitt


Feb 28, 2011, 8:22 AM
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Re: [Cprosser16] Tree Anchor Q's [In reply to]
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We have been setting up working ropes for years over the sharpest sea-eroded limestone you can possibly ever imagine, a length of 6mm flexible stainless cable with swaged eyes is the answer.
Or if it´s not too extreme I use a cloth covered lifting strop- they are cheap, robust and tested over sharp edges under load.


Partner cracklover


Feb 28, 2011, 7:37 PM
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Re: [USnavy] Tree Anchor Q's [In reply to]
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USnavy wrote:
Who and where was that said?

Jim on the taco.

GO


Partner j_ung


Feb 28, 2011, 8:53 PM
Post #36 of 45 (9920 views)
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Re: [cracklover] Tree Anchor Q's [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
Ugh... typical half-assed responses.

One big tree is plenty strong enough. Your problem is that if the route wanders, you will be scraping the TR anchor rope or webbing all over the place. If the lip of the clifftop has any sharp edges, your anchor rope will certainly get hung up on it.

Much better to do something like this:



The blue line is the anchor material, the red is the climbing rope.

The small tree is what's known as a "directional". If you set it up right the little tree won't have to hold much force (a little less than half) but it will keep the anchor material from moving around over the clifftop.

Cheers,

GO

I don't normally find such a directional to be necessary. I look for a good notch or irregularity at the lip to do the exact same job. Also, it's worth noting that your directional can't be some twig sticking out of the ground (that's hyperbole for all the literal people out there). It has to be a fully functional anchor point, or you may just create more problems than you solve.


qwert


Mar 1, 2011, 8:29 PM
Post #37 of 45 (9864 views)
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Re: [JimTitt] Tree Anchor Q's [In reply to]
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JimTitt wrote:
Or if it´s not too extreme I use a cloth covered lifting strop- they are cheap, robust and tested over sharp edges under load.
What is a cloth covered lifting strop?
I assume strop = strap
And then? cloth covered?
I think i know what you could mean, but i cant really make sense of your description.

qwert


JimTitt


Mar 1, 2011, 10:24 PM
Post #38 of 45 (9838 views)
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Re: [qwert] Tree Anchor Q's [In reply to]
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They are the continous loop slings (that´s a strop) rather than the lifting straps with eyes in the end used for general lifting and stuff and are covered in coarse canvas with the working load stamped on it. Inside are the cores.

They sell them in OBI amongst other places, about €5 for a 1000kg rated one and they are robust as hell!

Jim


ptlong2


Mar 2, 2011, 1:18 AM
Post #39 of 45 (9806 views)
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Re: [Cprosser16] Tree Anchor Q's [In reply to]
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Cprosser16 wrote:
Another side question, what do you guys think is the limit that a tree should be used for a climb? There are a few more tree closer to where each climber anchor is set up, but they are smaller in diameter, maybe 4-8 inches.

This question was already answered, but if you're curious there was a recent paper written about tree anchors. They loaded a number of different tree types and diameters until each one either failed or held 15 kN (3372 lbs).

"How to Determine Tree Strengths and Build Tree Anchors"





(This post was edited by ptlong2 on Mar 2, 2011, 1:21 AM)


Adk


Mar 3, 2011, 12:01 AM
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Re: [ptlong2] Tree Anchor Q's [In reply to]
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Great find !!!

Yet not conclusive as stated due to the number of variables. It's a general guide and a good one at that. It's a good read.

Since white pine failure was just below the 5" mark and these tests were performed on southern grown species, yes Kentucky is south, in the north I'd be willing to bet that the shift would be closer to at least an inch less for the hardwood species.
Let's be honest, white pine is going to bend that 10 degrees just about anywhere.

This is one report that I will be passing on!
Thanks


mattm


Mar 3, 2011, 3:55 PM
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Re: [JimTitt] Tree Anchor Q's [In reply to]
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JimTitt wrote:
They are the continous loop slings (that´s a strop) rather than the lifting straps with eyes in the end used for general lifting and stuff and are covered in coarse canvas with the working load stamped on it. Inside are the cores.

They sell them in OBI amongst other places, about €5 for a 1000kg rated one and they are robust as hell!

Jim

Things like these Jim?
http://www.uscargocontrol.com/...gle-Leg-Tag-Standard


or
http://www.uscargocontrol.com/...Yellow-Lifting-Sling



JimTitt


Mar 3, 2011, 6:23 PM
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Re: [mattm] Tree Anchor Q's [In reply to]
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Looks like in the lifting industry they are called "round slings" which is fair enough I guess.
Plenty of examples on this link http://www.liftsafesolutions.co.uk/id75.html

Jim


alexv54


Mar 10, 2011, 1:43 PM
Post #43 of 45 (9580 views)
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Re: [JimTitt] Tree Anchor Q's [In reply to]
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i have been looking online for weeks if it was possible to use these as top rope anchors, as i'll be buying two for slacklining and i was hoping they could double duty for me. thanks!

what would be the best way to rig this up off a tree?


JimTitt


Mar 10, 2011, 3:55 PM
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Re: [alexv54] Tree Anchor Q's [In reply to]
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Good for slacklining as they protect the tree well but I´m not sure I´d carry them around just for tying to tree, I just tie the rigging rope around with a bowline or a normal sling.

Jim


Partner j_ung


Mar 11, 2011, 8:51 PM
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Re: [ptlong2] Tree Anchor Q's [In reply to]
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ptlong2 wrote:

Good to see. If that test was in the southeast, it's also entirely possible that the outlier Hemlock was half dead anyway.


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