Mar 5, 2011, 4:16 PM
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Re: [USnavy] Do you remain tied in when you are sleeping on a portaledge?*
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??? Is this a joke? Of course you stay tied in, with your harness. A couple died around here about 10 years ago because they made errors tying their ledge. Thay also made the mistake of not being tied in. When the ledge riped in the middle of the night, they went flyeing to their death. Having been tied in, to a SEPERATE anchor would have prevented that. In any case, if your asking the question, you obviously lack the experience to go sleep on a ledge.
Mar 5, 2011, 6:02 PM
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Re: [USnavy] Do you remain tied in when you are sleeping on a portaledge?*
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If it wasn't for your post history I might think this were a troll... are you seriously asking this question to see what others do or deciding what to do based on others? Also, "wrap the rope around you"...?? Like a noose or what?
Mar 5, 2011, 7:00 PM
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Re: [potreroed] Do you remain tied in when you are sleeping on a portaledge?*
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Ok, seriously, USN00b, you are plastering this site and supertopo with idiotic questions about ledges and wall climbing in general, so I'm going to humor you and answer this question (though I really haven't done that much wall climbing):
As has been said, always stay tied in. If you had spent any time on portaledges, you'd know that they're really not that stable, they shift, you could lose your balance and fall out. A lot of people, when they sleep, tie in with a swami loop around their waist like you said. I personally would just take off my leg loops and leave the waist of the harness on after I had gone to bed, for comfort's sake.
Mar 5, 2011, 7:46 PM
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Re: [camhead] Do you remain tied in when you are sleeping on a portaledge?*
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camhead wrote:
Ok, seriously, USN00b, you are plastering this site and supertopo with idiotic questions about ledges and wall climbing in general, so I'm going to humor you and answer this question (though I really haven't done that much wall climbing):
As has been said, always stay tied in. If you had spent any time on portaledges, you'd know that they're really not that stable, they shift, you could lose your balance and fall out. A lot of people, when they sleep, tie in with a swami loop around their waist like you said. I personally would just take off my leg loops and leave the waist of the harness on after I had gone to bed, for comfort's sake.
Camhead, I know that ledges aren’t stable I own one (or did, I got rid of it to upgrade to one I will buy soon). I know you should always remain tied in, that’s extremely obvious to me. I did not ask this question to gain insight on the proper way to wall climb. I asked to see how others do it, whether that be the proper or improper way. I often ask questions to see what others’ opinions are, I very rarely ask questions to take the answer I receive into the field and start using it, climbing instruction is best given in person by someone qualified, not over the net. So call the question idiotic but I have heard more than one aid climber say they don’t stay tied in while sleeping for a verity of reasons, hints the reason why I polled everyone. I am interested in why some don’t remain tied in.
You can take my other idiotic Supertopo post about secondary harsh weather gear for example. Once again, I know you should always bring a bivy sack and other supplies to supplement your rain fly. However not everyone does. I have personally seen an AMGA Rock Guide certified guide not bring a bivy sack on the Nose because they had a fly and waterproof tarp and thus and felt it was unnecessary. I have also seen AMGA certified guides haul on a Pro Traxion without being tied in to the dynamic rope and without backing the device up. So if I ask rc.com if they remain tied in while hauling does that mean I don’t know the proper answer? No. That should be obvious, you should always be tied in with the dynamic rope while hauling, but a number of people don’t and sometimes I am curious as to the reason why people take additional risks. Sometimes there is a legitimist reason that has been overlooked, other times not.
(This post was edited by USnavy on Mar 5, 2011, 7:55 PM)
Mar 5, 2011, 10:14 PM
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Re: [USnavy] Do you remain tied in when you are sleeping on a portaledge?*
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Well, you come across as a complete wall moron who is basing their reputation on being one of the tens of thousands of people who have managed to get up the world's most famous trade route. With the amount of gear you brought, it's amazing that you could move at all. http://www.rockclimbing.com/...post=2469961#2469961 This makes you seem like a scared little wannabe who was afraid of failure and losing any amount of credibility you may have garnered from your non-climbing aquaintances.
You still never responded to Camhead's questions about what walls you have slept in a portaledge on. 25' up a Hawaiian chosspile doesn't count.
You seriously brought up a swami belt in addition to your standard harness?
Your initial post made it sound like you are looking for the most basic of beta in anticipation of using your alleged ledge for the first time, and your subsequent post makes it look like you are backpeddling and covering your ass, all the while carefully avoiding having to tell the truth.
Your constant stream of threads here and on other sites indicate that you read enough to be dangerous, yet can't comprehend the systems enough to implement them without being baby stepped along.
Add to the fact that you have multiple usernames on other forums, trying to isolate your cluelessness from any one on-line persona. I guess you thought that they were good for kicking sand on Adatesman though, right? Too bad you are only slightly more competent in the ways of the internet than you are as a wall noob.
Mar 6, 2011, 1:58 AM
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Re: [socalclimber] Do you remain tied in when you are sleeping on a portaledge?*
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I have woken up with my butt at the edge for the ledge and my legs dangling in the air. We wre camped out beneath a overhang,so the leages were not touching the wall. Any unbalance would tilt the ledge.
Always stay tied in. I do remove the legloops.
Navy your original post sounded like you were fishing for answer on how to prperly sleep on a ledge. I hope you corrected the guys who thought different
Mar 6, 2011, 4:05 AM
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Re: [rocknice2] Do you remain tied in when you are sleeping on a portaledge?*
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rocknice2 wrote:
I have woken up with my butt at the edge for the ledge and my legs dangling in the air. We wre camped out beneath a overhang,so the leages were not touching the wall. Any unbalance would tilt the ledge.
Always stay tied in. I do remove the legloops.
Navy your original post sounded like you were fishing for answer on how to prperly sleep on a ledge. I hope you corrected the guys who thought different
Mar 6, 2011, 4:07 AM
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Re: [USnavy] Do you remain tied in when you are sleeping on a portaledge?*
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Here are options, and different things I and my partners have done.
i. tied in with harness safest (obviously) This is how I sleep, especially when I am bagged after a long day on the wall.
ii. tied in with harness, no leg loops particularly if you sleep on your stomach, or if you are a fussy sleeper. More comfortable, as you dont have tie in loops and knots pressing against your bag.
iii. sling around waist, tied in as above, even less safe, even more comfortable (maybe?) never tried by me personally
iv. in bivy bag, bivy tied in, climber not ..... not my cup of tea, keep four leaf clovers, and horseshoes nearby.
v. clove hitch around ankle ..... I think I would rather fall to my death
vi. No tie in at all ..... self explanitory.... yer fuct
Mar 6, 2011, 5:44 PM
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Re: [bearbreeder] Do you remain tied in when you are sleeping on a portaledge?*
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bearbreeder wrote:
the important question is how to have sex with yr harness on .... on a ledge ...
Honestly, this is a question that shows you have never done walls.
When you finally climb all day, and arrive at a place to set up a ledge, your entire body is covered in sweat , grime and grease. There is positively NOTHING sexy about wall climbers beyond the first day. While most males I know would still be willing, despite the smell, the exhaustion, and the fact you partner is in the shape as you are..... the women are considerably more picky.
Mar 6, 2011, 7:06 PM
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Re: [summerprophet] Do you remain tied in when you are sleeping on a portaledge?*
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summerprophet wrote:
bearbreeder wrote:
the important question is how to have sex with yr harness on .... on a ledge ...
Honestly, this is a question that shows you have never done walls.
When you finally climb all day, and arrive at a place to set up a ledge, your entire body is covered in sweat , grime and grease. There is positively NOTHING sexy about wall climbers beyond the first day. While most males I know would still be willing, despite the smell, the exhaustion, and the fact you partner is in the shape as you are..... the women are considerably more picky.
Why do you assume a person named "bearbreeder" necessarily requires the presence of a female to get busy?
Mar 6, 2011, 11:40 PM
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Re: [summerprophet] Do you remain tied in when you are sleeping on a portaledge?*
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summerprophet wrote:
bearbreeder wrote:
the important question is how to have sex with yr harness on .... on a ledge ...
Honestly, this is a question that shows you have never done walls.
When you finally climb all day, and arrive at a place to set up a ledge, your entire body is covered in sweat , grime and grease. There is positively NOTHING sexy about wall climbers beyond the first day. While most males I know would still be willing, despite the smell, the exhaustion, and the fact you partner is in the shape as you are..... the women are considerably more picky.
Plus one on all points here.
USnooby, I am personally calling you out. Find one person who actually has slept on a wall without tying in. I am sure there exists such a creature, but being as rare as it would be, I doubt you have conversed with said fearless dumbass. Post the particulars, you know, name, route, year, or better yet, invite him to this thread to out himself.
I doubt anything will ever be presented as evidence, just more fishing for beta via the wierdest line of questioning I have ever witnessed outside of a bar room.
Burly Bob
Oh yea, I always drop my leg loops if I have enough energy.
Mar 7, 2011, 12:50 AM
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Re: [xtrmecat] Do you remain tied in when you are sleeping on a portaledge?*
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xtrmecat wrote:
summerprophet wrote:
bearbreeder wrote:
the important question is how to have sex with yr harness on .... on a ledge ...
Honestly, this is a question that shows you have never done walls.
When you finally climb all day, and arrive at a place to set up a ledge, your entire body is covered in sweat , grime and grease. There is positively NOTHING sexy about wall climbers beyond the first day. While most males I know would still be willing, despite the smell, the exhaustion, and the fact you partner is in the shape as you are..... the women are considerably more picky.
Find one person who actually has slept on a wall without tying in.
Mar 7, 2011, 12:50 AM
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Re: [xtrmecat] Do you remain tied in when you are sleeping on a portaledge?*
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xtrmecat wrote:
summerprophet wrote:
bearbreeder wrote:
the important question is how to have sex with yr harness on .... on a ledge ...
Honestly, this is a question that shows you have never done walls.
When you finally climb all day, and arrive at a place to set up a ledge, your entire body is covered in sweat , grime and grease. There is positively NOTHING sexy about wall climbers beyond the first day. While most males I know would still be willing, despite the smell, the exhaustion, and the fact you partner is in the shape as you are..... the women are considerably more picky.
Plus one on all points here.
USnooby, I am personally calling you out. Find one person who actually has slept on a wall without tying in. I am sure there exists such a creature, but being as rare as it would be, I doubt you have conversed with said fearless dumbass. Post the particulars, you know, name, route, year, or better yet, invite him to this thread to out himself.
I doubt anything will ever be presented as evidence, just more fishing for beta via the wierdest line of questioning I have ever witnessed outside of a bar room.
Burly Bob
Oh yea, I always drop my leg loops if I have enough energy.
But obviously you don't need to tie in if the thin nylon fly is up and keeping you safe from death
Mar 7, 2011, 2:11 AM
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Re: [USnavy] Do you remain tied in when you are sleeping on a portaledge?*
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USnavy wrote:
xtrmecat wrote:
summerprophet wrote:
bearbreeder wrote:
the important question is how to have sex with yr harness on .... on a ledge ...
Honestly, this is a question that shows you have never done walls.
When you finally climb all day, and arrive at a place to set up a ledge, your entire body is covered in sweat , grime and grease. There is positively NOTHING sexy about wall climbers beyond the first day. While most males I know would still be willing, despite the smell, the exhaustion, and the fact you partner is in the shape as you are..... the women are considerably more picky.
Find one person who actually has slept on a wall without tying in.
How about the three who voted no in my poll?
Those are the people who would have voted "Pancakes!" had you included it.
Mar 7, 2011, 2:55 AM
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Re: [edge] Do you remain tied in when you are sleeping on a portaledge?*
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Well I've never slept on a portaledge but I voted no because I'm so core that I will likely be soloing most of the route anyway. Why would I tied in while I sleep? Pfft!
Mar 7, 2011, 3:16 AM
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Re: [notapplicable] Do you remain tied in when you are sleeping on a portaledge?*
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notapplicable wrote:
Well I've never slept on a portaledge but I voted no because I'm so core that I will likely be soloing most of the route anyway. Why would I tied in while I sleep? Pfft!
Since I don't even use a rope for wall-climbing I can't tie in.
Mar 7, 2011, 5:49 AM
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Re: [summerprophet] Do you remain tied in when you are sleeping on a portaledge?*
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summerprophet wrote:
Honestly, this is a question that shows you have never done walls.
When you finally climb all day, and arrive at a place to set up a ledge, your entire body is covered in sweat , grime and grease. There is positively NOTHING sexy about wall climbers beyond the first day. While most males I know would still be willing, despite the smell, the exhaustion, and the fact you partner is in the shape as you are..... the women are considerably more picky.
july 2007 ... outside magazine ..
"so you've just climbed a 5.12 with a 10.0 and you're all sweaty and hot and ... ok. sometimes there's no avoiding getting it on in a tiny bit of elevated shelter. according to one anonymous (and persuasive) climber and pro photographer (no, not jimmy chin), sex on a portaledge is a beautiful thing, damnit...as with sex in a hammock, rolling around isn't an option. instead, choose one position (harnesses allowed) and commit; otherwise the 'ledge might get a bit tipsy. 'baby wipes also make things nicer,' he's proud to share."
Mar 7, 2011, 4:22 PM
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Re: [USnavy] Do you remain tied in when you are sleeping on a portaledge?*
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USnavy wrote:
xtrmecat wrote:
summerprophet wrote:
bearbreeder wrote:
the important question is how to have sex with yr harness on .... on a ledge ...
Honestly, this is a question that shows you have never done walls.
When you finally climb all day, and arrive at a place to set up a ledge, your entire body is covered in sweat , grime and grease. There is positively NOTHING sexy about wall climbers beyond the first day. While most males I know would still be willing, despite the smell, the exhaustion, and the fact you partner is in the shape as you are..... the women are considerably more picky.
Find one person who actually has slept on a wall without tying in.
How about the three who voted no in my poll?
It's up to six now. I'd wager they're making a personal suggestion to you.
Mar 7, 2011, 4:38 PM
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Re: [camhead] Do you remain tied in when you are sleeping on a portaledge?*
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camhead wrote:
USnavy wrote:
Personally I stay tied in via a swami.
What Big Wall was this on?
Probably the same walls he has climbed when he brings his "standard" Yosemite rack, or during his multiple trips up the Nose:
USnavy wrote:
...My standard Yosemite aid rack is 3x coverage from a 000 C3 to a #3 Camalot (2x 000 actually) and normally double #4's and a single 5 if needed. Than 2x offset RP coverage and 2x standard nut coverage. Lastly I bring 2x offset cam coverage and if needed, two cam hooks and standard hooks.
Thats what I bring on the Nose...
But who am I to talk, one trip up El Cap is one more than I have taken!
Mar 7, 2011, 5:50 PM
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Re: [csproul] Do you remain tied in when you are sleeping on a portaledge?*
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I stay tied in with the full harness on. Although on your portaledge inside the rain fly you might feel safe, those things constantly shift. Also don't forget the call of nature. So at some point you have to go to an edge and lean out towards the abyss to relieve yourself. Though I suppose you can use a pee bottle.
Disclaimer: The reference above is to #1 only as one should always use a poop tube.
Mar 7, 2011, 6:11 PM
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Re: [USnavy] Do you remain tied in when you are sleeping on a portaledge?*
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USnavy wrote:
xtrmecat wrote:
summerprophet wrote:
bearbreeder wrote:
the important question is how to have sex with yr harness on .... on a ledge ...
Honestly, this is a question that shows you have never done walls.
When you finally climb all day, and arrive at a place to set up a ledge, your entire body is covered in sweat , grime and grease. There is positively NOTHING sexy about wall climbers beyond the first day. While most males I know would still be willing, despite the smell, the exhaustion, and the fact you partner is in the shape as you are..... the women are considerably more picky.
Find one person who actually has slept on a wall without tying in.
How about the three who voted no in my poll?
I am still waiting. It shouldn't be too hard to come up with this little tidbit now, should it?
Mar 8, 2011, 1:00 AM
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Re: [csproul] Do you remain tied in when you are sleeping on a portaledge?*
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csproul wrote:
camhead wrote:
USnavy wrote:
Personally I stay tied in via a swami.
What Big Wall was this on?
Probably the same walls he has climbed when he brings his "standard" Yosemite rack, or during his multiple trips up the Nose:
USnavy wrote:
...My standard Yosemite aid rack is 3x coverage from a 000 C3 to a #3 Camalot (2x 000 actually) and normally double #4's and a single 5 if needed. Than 2x offset RP coverage and 2x standard nut coverage. Lastly I bring 2x offset cam coverage and if needed, two cam hooks and standard hooks.
Thats what I bring on the Nose...
But who am I to talk, one trip up El Cap is one more than I have taken!
Apr 2, 2011, 12:33 AM
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Re: [USnavy] Do you remain tied in when you are sleeping on a portaledge?*
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Please let me know you're whereabouts during the months of August and September as I will also be on a road trip and don't want to end up scraping you off the ground. Moron.
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