May 25, 2011, 8:28 PM
Post #26 of 26
Registered: May 9, 2005
I know for a fact that the Leader Must Not Fall (LMNF) ideal persisted long after manila ropes went away. My college buds and I subscribed to the LMNF rule even as we climbed on shiny new Mammut and Chouinard kernmantle ropes. Well, we had Goldlines too, but they sucked in a big way; actually they sucked every way possible short of rotting like manila. Speaking of which, manila was replaced by nylon a LONG time ago. I doubt there's anyone on this forum who climbed in pre-nylon days. Anyway, we didn't push ourselves on lead because the gear sucked. We fell - rarely - but not because we felt it was OK to do so. Others were pushing hard above the same gear at the time (standards were moving quickly into 5.doubledigits), but alas, we were mere mortals.
I'm not sure what you mean by the gear sucked. Are you implying that cams made it safe to fall on gear? I feel much better climbing over a nice slotted nut than any cam placement.