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jakedatc
Mar 28, 2011, 12:00 AM
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This could be possibly recall worthy...
Anyone else seen the problem while "batman"ing up the rope and the rope pops out of the groove and gets jammed near the lever? (ie fell on a route and pulling back up to the last bolt). Luckily he was near a bolt and could clip in direct and unweight the rope to fix it.
This happened to us this weekend and we are pretty shocked that Petzl didn't find this issue while developing and testing.
picture should be posted shortly.
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notapplicable
Mar 28, 2011, 12:02 AM
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Interesting. Almost bought one yesterday with my 20% off at REI.
Would like to see those pics.
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jakedatc
Mar 28, 2011, 12:09 AM
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notapplicable wrote: Interesting. Almost bought one yesterday with my 20% off at REI. Would like to see those pics.
she'll post them soon. It was funky because Camhead and Drivel told us about it just a few days prior when we were showing them the grigri2 and then it happened to us.
i just can't see how they missed a problem so easily repeatable while doing a common thing.
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angry
Mar 28, 2011, 12:15 AM
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Don't forget to mention how my 3 week old gri2 has deep wear marks. It'll be a paperweight in 6 months at this pace. I haven't seen the other issue except on purpose yet.
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shotwell
Mar 28, 2011, 12:26 AM
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Petzl has disclosed this lever jamming in their large .pdf secondary manual. See page 10 for complete instructions.
http://www.petzl.com/files/all/product-experience/SPORT/GRIGRI2/PE_D14-GRIGRI%202_EN.pdf
Basically, if there is weight on the rope, just pull down on the brake strand. This forces the cam to rotate and frees the rope from behind.
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jakedatc
Mar 28, 2011, 12:28 AM
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shotwell wrote: Petzl has disclosed this lever jamming in their large .pdf secondary manual. See page 10 for complete instructions. http://www.petzl.com/...14-GRIGRI%202_EN.pdf Basically, if there is weight on the rope, just pull down on the brake strand. This forces the cam to rotate and frees the rope from behind.
clicky
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shotwell
Mar 28, 2011, 12:36 AM
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FYI, there are a few other great nuggets in that manual. I really wish Petzl would advertise it rather than the video they put out.
To be honest though, I'm seeing the same amount of wear on my GriGri 2 in a couple of weeks of sport climbing as my last GriGri got in its first year. While it is cool that it is small and light, I'm glad I didn't pay for the upgrade. When I wear this out, I'll be going back to the original.
With the current rock bottom prices of the original, I highly recommend it, especially if you're using a rope in its size range.
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vegastradguy
Mar 28, 2011, 12:56 AM
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jakedatc
Mar 28, 2011, 1:02 AM
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It is not while belaying.. it is while yarding in slack while someone is pulling up the rope. depending on how you do it it is a lot of jumping up and yarding in slack while they pull up themselves up the rope. this is a very common technique
i do like how they have a method to fix a failure they didn't design around.
seems like they cut corners to try to get the weight down to the Cinch range
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shotwell
Mar 28, 2011, 1:11 AM
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The 'fix' isn't exactly onerous, nor is the issue really a big deal. The failure is a closed failure (meaning that it keeps the rope locked), it doesn't put the rope at risk for damage, and the fix is intuitive. Simply understanding how the cam works will let you problem solve.
While I agree that I would prefer the device didn't do this, I just can't see how it is a big deal. My partner and I batman, frequently, but we've not yet had this happen to us. That being said, I know it can happen, we've discussed it happening, and we're prepared to deal with this.
It sounds like you're experiencing a touch of buyer's remorse. If you bought it to have a light-weight version of the GriGri, you'd have to know it would come with trade-offs. If you really don't like it, I'm sure you could get a good price for it selling it here on RC, likely more than enough to buy an old style GriGri.
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jakedatc
Mar 28, 2011, 1:16 AM
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I didn't buy it. my gf did. I am a Cinch fan and won't be switching anytime soon.
I just don't think it is a very widely known issue and since it is not in the video they are not advertising it as prominently. I'm guessing it will be easier to do with thinner ropes since she could not repeat it with the larger rope she had for the photo but it did happen with my 9.5 at the crag.
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shotwell
Mar 28, 2011, 1:20 AM
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Fair enough.
I'm not trying to cover up for Petzl or anything, but the intro to the linked .pdf says that it is inseparable from the standard instructions. IIRC, the manual that ships with the device says this.
I know people prefer the Clif Notes version, but you trust your life to a belay device. Is 30 minutes too long to spend reading through the instructions?
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jakedatc
Mar 28, 2011, 1:27 AM
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i dont have the manual so i can't look but if it is so important it should be more visible on the product page similar to the video.
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shotwell
Mar 28, 2011, 1:34 AM
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http://petzl.com/...belay-devices/grigri
Petzl puts all usage info for all products directly under the product picture listed as More Info. It has been there for years. The only reason the video is more prominent is because Petzl knows most users won't sit still for anything that doesn't move and have sound. Saying a link in a standard position isn't 'prominent' is silly.
I'm not saying you all are the only people that don't read this info. I'm just saying that the trend in climbing is that nothing in the manual could be worth your time. Especially a device that is a direct descendant to another will tempt people in to trying to assume it is the same. It isn't.
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vegastradguy
Mar 28, 2011, 1:37 AM
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spikeddem
Mar 28, 2011, 2:22 PM
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jakedatc wrote: This could be possibly recall worthy... Anyone else seen the problem while "batman"ing up the rope and the rope pops out of the groove and gets jammed near the lever? (ie fell on a route and pulling back up to the last bolt). Luckily he was near a bolt and could clip in direct and unweight the rope to fix it. This happened to us this weekend and we are pretty shocked that Petzl didn't find this issue while developing and testing. picture should be posted shortly.
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bigevilgrape
Mar 28, 2011, 4:27 PM
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jakedatc wrote: I didn't buy it. my gf did. I am a Cinch fan and won't be switching anytime soon. I just don't think it is a very widely known issue and since it is not in the video they are not advertising it as prominently. I'm guessing it will be easier to do with thinner ropes since she could not repeat it with the larger rope she had for the photo but it did happen with my 9.5 at the crag.
It happened at the crag with the 9.8, not the 9.5.
I read though the directions that came with the grigri, but did not notice a link to the pdf to download. I think that for what the belay device costs they should include a better manual with it. At the very least they should make it clearer that the the included directions are incomplete and you need to download the rest.
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billcoe_
Mar 28, 2011, 8:23 PM
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Christ...and if you use the Petzl Zephyr rope they both wear out in a week? Maybe Petzl will start making Aliens now.
Looked it up, they specifically address this occurring exactly as you describe on P10 of the Manuel. As I know I'll end up with one anyway, knowing this in advance is nice. One of my partners got one and went back to the original grigri immediately, but he doesn't have a Cinch and he might not like that either...so.....hmmmmm
(This post was edited by billcoe_ on Mar 28, 2011, 8:31 PM)
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vegastradguy
Mar 28, 2011, 9:00 PM
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jakedatc
Mar 29, 2011, 1:33 AM
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Yep, big advertisement for the extra manual on the website....... you're all just fanboys and free gear ball cuppers.
If there are failures that people should know about then they should put the whole manual with the device and probably put something about it in the video.
http://www.flickr.com/...evilgrape/5570033170
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jakedatc
Mar 29, 2011, 1:37 AM
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vegastradguy wrote: jakedatc wrote: It is not while belaying.. it is while yarding in slack while someone is pulling up the rope. depending on how you do it it is a lot of jumping up and yarding in slack while they pull up themselves up the rope. this is a very common technique yes, it is. my advice still applies.
jumping and taking in slack while someone yards up the rope is a common technique and should not cause a failure that locks up the rope.
cutting corners with an inferior product is not a good strategy.
(This post was edited by jakedatc on Mar 29, 2011, 1:41 AM)
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bigevilgrape
Mar 29, 2011, 1:44 AM
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In reply to: I'm trying to except that i missed something obvious in the directions that i did, in fact, read before using the new grigri. The only thing I can find that tries to send me to the website is this, tucked into the inside of the back cover next to the last page of the Japanese directions  If I had a) noticed it back there and b) realized that meant go to the website to see the rest of the directions I would have gone there and read though them. |
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vegastradguy
Mar 29, 2011, 5:00 AM
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bigevilgrape
Mar 29, 2011, 11:03 AM
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Perhaps you can expand on what it is I was doing wrong then? I've been doing this for years on an ATC and original grigri.
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