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bearbreeder


Mar 31, 2011, 11:30 PM
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ice climbers stuck on rappel knot
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http://www.banffcragandcanyon.com/...splay.aspx?e=3049765

knowing how to pass a knot is an essential skill...


Ice climbers escape injury after late night rescue
By Corrie DiManno
Posted 2 days ago
Parks Canada officials rescued two ice climbers Sunday night who were stranded for several hours on the Weeping Wall off the Icefields Parkway.

Visitor safety specialist Brian Webster said the climbers from Edmonton cut their rope in half after it became stuck during their rappel. They then tied the two pieces of rope together, creating a knot in the rope that the first climber on the descent could not bypass.

Parks was called at around 8 p.m. arriving at the base of the wall at about 11 p.m., and then climbed to the top of the route to rappel down to the climbers. It was 1:30 a.m. when the team reached the climber who had been stuck on a completely vertical plane, hanging from his rope and suspended by his harness since approximately 6 p.m.

Webster said he was stuck in the worst section, because the options to climb up or slide down were not available. The other climber had been stranded on a ledge by the upper anchor. After guidance from the team on how to bypass the knot in their rope, both climbers reached the ground at 3 a.m.

"The party was skilled enough to climb the waterfall, but didn't have the depth of knowledge of the rope system for unexpected situations," Webster said. "If you are a beginner or don't have the depth of knowledge or experience, get that knowledge or go with someone more experienced than yourself."



bill123


Apr 1, 2011, 12:47 AM
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Re: [bearbreeder] ice climbers stuck on rappel knot [In reply to]
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Glad they are ok. I can't picture how a rope gets stuck during a rappel so that cutting the rope and then tying a knot in it is a solution. Can someone explain?


gimmeslack


Apr 1, 2011, 1:33 AM
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Aw man, not another one...
Let's hope Mr.Gadd doesn't see this.Shocked


Rudmin


Apr 1, 2011, 1:53 AM
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bill123 wrote:
Glad they are ok. I can't picture how a rope gets stuck during a rappel so that cutting the rope and then tying a knot in it is a solution. Can someone explain?

Somewhere along the rappel, probably near the top, there is a rope sized crack in an overhang. As the first person passes by this section, the rope slips into the crack and the abseiler's weight on the overhang jams it as far in as it can possible go.

The next person down gets to the jam and can't get the rope free. So they slip some rope from the free side to get further down and chop their rope above and below the jam, tie the two ends together and then get stuck on the knot right below the overhang. There is probably a lot of swearing and yelling involved too.


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Apr 1, 2011, 2:54 AM
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Re: [Rudmin] ice climbers stuck on rappel knot [In reply to]
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Is this the place to share an optimal knot-passing strategy?

Start off by pulling up the rappel ropes and installing the atc just below the knot. Clip the atc to the harness belay loop and tie it off as for self-rescue.

Set up a rappel using a Munter hitch on a locker extended to head level from the harness. Rappel on this. As the knot approaches the munter biner, the atc will be weighted and the rappeller will be hanging on the tied-off atc. Unclip the extender sling (minor struggle possible here) and pop the loaded munter carabiner off the rope. Release the tied-off atc and continue down.

Fast to set up, secure and pretty goof-proof, no prussik knots or foot slings involved.


potreroed


Apr 1, 2011, 4:12 AM
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rgold wrote:
Is this the place to share an optimal knot-passing strategy?

Start off by pulling up the rappel ropes and installing the atc just below the knot. Clip the atc to the harness belay loop and tie it off as for self-rescue.

Set up a rappel using a Munter hitch on a locker extended to head level from the harness. Rappel on this. As the knot approaches the munter biner, the atc will be weighted and the rappeller will be hanging on the tied-off atc. Unclip the extender sling (minor struggle possible here) and pop the loaded munter carabiner off the rope. Release the tied-off atc and continue down.

Fast to set up, secure and pretty goof-proof, no prussik knots or foot slings involved.

Excellent! It's amazing how one never stops learning new tricks in this game.


bearbreeder


Apr 1, 2011, 4:31 AM
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nice ... learn something as well

in this particular case though i would have just set up a single line rap if im reading the facts in the article right ...


bill123


Apr 1, 2011, 11:58 AM
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My favorite part about this whole episode is that after being trapped (by their own ignorance) for 5 1/2 hours, the climbers had to sit through a lesson in passing a knot before being let go.


majid_sabet


Apr 1, 2011, 2:08 PM
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Re: [bearbreeder] ice climbers stuck on rappel knot [In reply to]
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1-rap to where the knot is
2-set a prussic above knot and attach it to belay loop
3-disconnect your rap device and sh*t
4-Put the rap device below the knot
5-take the rope below your rap device and wrap it min 3 times over your right or left feet
6-stand on the feet
7- Disconnect prusicc and undo the wrap on your feet
8-continue your rap

This whole thing should take no more than 1 minute in day time or night time

if you do this in 3 min or longer, you are a n00b

and, attach a fig 8, 5 feet below the second rope to your harness ( tie short) in case you doo doo and fall while doing wabitt passing knot method


(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Apr 1, 2011, 2:12 PM)


notapplicable


Apr 1, 2011, 2:25 PM
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Since no one was hurt (other than their pride, I'm sure) I would like to be the first to say...

HAHA!


aprice00


Apr 1, 2011, 3:20 PM
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potreroed wrote:
rgold wrote:
Is this the place to share an optimal knot-passing strategy?

Start off by pulling up the rappel ropes and installing the atc just below the knot. Clip the atc to the harness belay loop and tie it off as for self-rescue.

Set up a rappel using a Munter hitch on a locker extended to head level from the harness. Rappel on this. As the knot approaches the munter biner, the atc will be weighted and the rappeller will be hanging on the tied-off atc. Unclip the extender sling (minor struggle possible here) and pop the loaded munter carabiner off the rope. Release the tied-off atc and continue down.

Fast to set up, secure and pretty goof-proof, no prussik knots or foot slings involved.

Are you wrapping the munter on a weighted rope?


theguy


Apr 1, 2011, 4:04 PM
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aprice00 wrote:
potreroed wrote:
rgold wrote:
Is this the place to share an optimal knot-passing strategy?

Start off by pulling up the rappel ropes and installing the atc just below the knot. Clip the atc to the harness belay loop and tie it off as for self-rescue.

Set up a rappel using a Munter hitch on a locker extended to head level from the harness. Rappel on this. As the knot approaches the munter biner, the atc will be weighted and the rappeller will be hanging on the tied-off atc. Unclip the extender sling (minor struggle possible here) and pop the loaded munter carabiner off the rope. Release the tied-off atc and continue down.

Fast to set up, secure and pretty goof-proof, no prussik knots or foot slings involved.

Are you wrapping the munter on a weighted rope?


rgold wrote:
Start off by pulling up the rappel ropes...Set up a rappel using a Munter hitch

P.S. Nice cheesetitting!

P.P.S. Nice tip


theguy


Apr 1, 2011, 4:07 PM
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bearbreeder wrote:
in this particular case though i would have just set up a single line rap if im reading the facts in the article right ...

Since this strategy uses a munter hitch to rappel, I'm betting it is a single line rap, if I'm reading rgold's method right...


Partner rgold


Apr 1, 2011, 4:40 PM
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Re: [theguy] ice climbers stuck on rappel knot [In reply to]
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TG, the method works for single or double rope raps. (Well, maybe if you are using a fat single and a small munter biner there might be problems---I haven't tried that configuration). The munter is not put on a loaded line; I thought that was clear from my description. It is, however, popped off a loaded line, a cool trick that is not as well-known as it should be, in my opinion.

I think the munter pop method is both faster and safer than the standard approach posted by Majid. It doesn't require a prussik sling and doesn't require a backup knot to protect you during the period when your only attachment to the rope is a single prussik.

Standing up on a foot wrap is strenuous and the raps themselves are insecure. You will probably want to hold on to the rope below the raps to keep them from dumping, and you still have to hang on to the rope above with the same hand to keep from tipping over.

If the prussik has jammed you might be in for a struggle, since you only have one free hand to work on it. If you are doing all this in the dark while free-hanging in a downpour, it won't be much fun.

Meanwhile, that backup knot has to be tied far enough along the rope that there is room for the foot raps and loop of rope back up from the foot to your hand. That means if something goes wrong and you do fall on the backup, it will be a considerable drop.

The method I described avoids all this drama. The only advantage to the standard method is that you can use it over and over again to pass multiple knots. If there is only one knot to pass, the standard method seems inferior to me.


Alpine07


Apr 1, 2011, 11:54 PM
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I think I like your method, with a few slight modifications of course. First off, in the essence of saving time, why not just avoid the whole munter part, and just huck off the cliff to get caught where the atc is placed? Should be enough rope out to be a soft landing. All I see is benefit to this method. Tests the anchor for the guy coming next, quick and efficient, no fiddling with gear mid rappel, and fun! Why pass a knot when you can avoid the whole process entirely? I mean, come on guys.


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Apr 3, 2011, 4:20 AM
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rgold wrote:
TG, the method works for single or double rope raps.
I've never heard of a situation in which one has to pass a knot in a double rope rappel. I suppose if one tied together 2 ropes one much shorter than the other, but never heard of that happening

In reply to:
I think the munter pop method is both faster and safer than the standard approach posted by Majid. It doesn't require ...a backup knot to protect you during the period when your only attachment to the rope is a single prussik.

I'll test this method, but I'll sure have the backup knot in place. Fiddling with gear in the middle of rappel is too unnerving and possibility of things going wrong not to use that extra precaution.

I've never had to pass a knot in the field. Just out of curiosity has anyone out there been forced to do that? It' d be interesting to hear your stories.

Cheers,
Rob.calm


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Apr 3, 2011, 6:07 PM
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robdotcalm wrote:
I've never heard of a situation in which one has to pass a knot in a double rope rappel. I suppose if one tied together 2 ropes one much shorter than the other, but never heard of that happening...

...I've never had to pass a knot in the field. Just out of curiosity has anyone out there been forced to do that? It' d be interesting to hear your stories.


Interestingly enough, the only time I've had to pass a knot "in the field" is when rappelling on two strands. (Not a two-rope rap). Our single rope got a core shot which we "quarantined" with a butterfly knot, which had to be passed on rappel. Unfortunately, I didn't know the munter pop method at the time and had to use the much less pleasant prussik transfer approach.

As for backing up the munter pop method, why not---it can't hurt. But you are rappelling onto a tied-off ATC. If you aren't positive you can tie off an ATC (as for belay escape) then a backup knot is surely essential. On the other hand, if you know how to tie off an ATC, the system is really safe and doesn't have any weak points at which things could head south.


blueeyedclimber


Apr 4, 2011, 12:54 PM
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Alpine07 wrote:
I think I like your method, with a few slight modifications of course. First off, in the essence of saving time, why not just avoid the whole munter part, and just huck off the cliff to get caught where the atc is placed? Should be enough rope out to be a soft landing. All I see is benefit to this method. Tests the anchor for the guy coming next, quick and efficient, no fiddling with gear mid rappel, and fun! Why pass a knot when you can avoid the whole process entirely? I mean, come on guys.

Are you serious? Why on earth would you do that? OR at the least, if you want to do it, fine...but, why would you think it's ok to give that as advice?

Josh


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Apr 4, 2011, 1:33 PM
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Josh, check the date of that "outrageous" post...


blueeyedclimber


Apr 4, 2011, 2:18 PM
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rgold wrote:
Josh, check the date of that "outrageous" post...

Doh!

I've been trolled Frown (edited to add: In my defense, I thought you weren't allowed to troll in this forum).

Btw, I like your solution to pass the knot. Like others, I have never had to in the field and up until now was assuming I'd use prussiks if the situation came up.

Josh


(This post was edited by blueeyedclimber on Apr 4, 2011, 2:19 PM)


Gmburns2000


Apr 4, 2011, 3:09 PM
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robdotcalm wrote:

I've never had to pass a knot in the field. Just out of curiosity has anyone out there been forced to do that? It' d be interesting to hear your stories.

Cheers,
Rob.calm

While I didn't pass the knot, our team once decided this was the safest way to get down. We were at the top of a tower with night fast approaching. There were three of us, and we knew the anchor between us and the ground was not safe for three people (let alone one or two), and we were also fairly certain that two ropes tied together as one rope would get us to the ground.

We sent Sungam down (biggest dude Laugh) to pass the knot. The first two of us were going to rap down to the ground leaving the third to do two raps, with the last rap off the sketchy anchor in the middle.

It turned out that the knot was just at the ground and we could have all rapped with a two-rope rappel, but this was unclear at best from the top with no place to safely secure mid-way down if we were wrong.


Alpine07


Apr 4, 2011, 6:56 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote:
rgold wrote:
Josh, check the date of that "outrageous" post...

Doh!

I've been trolled Frown (edited to add: In my defense, I thought you weren't allowed to troll in this forum).

Btw, I like your solution to pass the knot. Like others, I have never had to in the field and up until now was assuming I'd use prussiks if the situation came up.

Josh

Haha, sorry bout that, it was april fools, ya know?! I had thought I'd made it ridiculous enough so no one would think I was serious. Ah well...


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Apr 4, 2011, 7:15 PM
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rgold wrote:
robdotcalm wrote:
I've never heard of a situation in which one has to pass a knot in a double rope rappel. I suppose if one tied together 2 ropes one much shorter than the other, but never heard of that happening...

...I've never had to pass a knot in the field. Just out of curiosity has anyone out there been forced to do that? It' d be interesting to hear your stories.


Interestingly enough, the only time I've had to pass a knot "in the field" is when rappelling on two strands. (Not a two-rope rap). Our single rope got a core shot which we "quarantined" with a butterfly knot, which had to be passed on rappel. Unfortunately, I didn't know the munter pop method at the time and had to use the much less pleasant prussik transfer approach.

As for backing up the munter pop method, why not---it can't hurt. But you are rappelling onto a tied-off ATC. If you aren't positive you can tie off an ATC (as for belay escape) then a backup knot is surely essential. On the other hand, if you know how to tie off an ATC, the system is really safe and doesn't have any weak points at which things could head south.

rgold, will you describe the munter pop a bit further? Is it simply a matter of maneuvering the HMS biner so as to remove it from the load line above? If so, any thoughts on whether a keylock biner might work better than a notched biner?


(This post was edited by j_ung on Apr 4, 2011, 7:25 PM)


tomthedancinghobo


Apr 5, 2011, 5:15 AM
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Maybe I'm not understanding you correctly, but... Why would you rig a Munter at head level? The strands of that hitch (loaded and brake strands) need to be held parallel, so you'd need to hold your brake arm over your head, wouldn't you?

I know the munter has enough friction that you generally don't need to *actually* line the strands up - even a strong grip will often do - but it seems like some serious built-in awkwardness compared to the relatively simple prusik-detach-reattach-unprussik knot-passing.

It seems pretty complicated to me, and possibly harder to control. Then again, I guess we all have our own little idiosyncrasies.


dugl33


Apr 5, 2011, 5:53 AM
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tomthedancinghobo wrote:
Maybe I'm not understanding you correctly, but... Why would you rig a Munter at head level? The strands of that hitch (loaded and brake strands) need to be held parallel, so you'd need to hold your brake arm over your head, wouldn't you?

I know the munter has enough friction that you generally don't need to *actually* line the strands up - even a strong grip will often do - but it seems like some serious built-in awkwardness compared to the relatively simple prusik-detach-reattach-unprussik knot-passing.

It seems pretty complicated to me, and possibly harder to control. Then again, I guess we all have our own little idiosyncrasies.

Idiosyncratic or 50 some years of experience? No, the strands don't need to be held parallel (i.e. above your head) -- you will still generate enough friction and can hold the ropes as you normally would rappelling with a device.


moose_droppings


Apr 5, 2011, 6:34 AM
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rgold wrote:
Is this the place to share an optimal knot-passing strategy?

Start off by pulling up the rappel ropes and installing the atc just below the knot. Clip the atc to the harness belay loop and tie it off as for self-rescue.

Set up a rappel using a Munter hitch on a locker extended to head level from the harness. Rappel on this. As the knot approaches the munter biner, the atc will be weighted and the rappeller will be hanging on the tied-off atc. Unclip the extender sling (minor struggle possible here) and pop the loaded munter carabiner off the rope. Release the tied-off atc and continue down.

Fast to set up, secure and pretty goof-proof, no prussik knots or foot slings involved.


Sure like the sounds of this. A question though.

As I rap down on the Munter to the point where the ATC comes tight, will there be a bunch of twists in the line with a possible rats nest between the two since the ATC is attached to my belay loop?

Thanks.


tomthedancinghobo


Apr 5, 2011, 6:38 AM
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Right. I said that in most cases you don't actually need to hold the strands parallel - Freedom of the hills says that in any configuration this hitch generates more friction than most belay devices.

All I was saying was that, by placing at head level a variable friction hitch controlled by orientation of the strands, you do give up some control. This obviously isn't a big deal in normal situations. But in situations requiring greater-than-normal friction, like rappelling on icy ropes, with an injured person, or on small-diameter ropes, I'm not sure I'd trust a munter hitch at head level.


Once again: it would obviously work, but it seems to add an extra level of complication - a second belay device - without any corresponding payoff.


blueeyedclimber


Apr 5, 2011, 12:37 PM
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Alpine07 wrote:
blueeyedclimber wrote:
rgold wrote:
Josh, check the date of that "outrageous" post...

Doh!

I've been trolled Frown (edited to add: In my defense, I thought you weren't allowed to troll in this forum).

Btw, I like your solution to pass the knot. Like others, I have never had to in the field and up until now was assuming I'd use prussiks if the situation came up.

Josh

Haha, sorry bout that, it was april fools, ya know?! I had thought I'd made it ridiculous enough so no one would think I was serious. Ah well...

What can I say? I'm gullibleBlush

Plus, I commute on the subway in Boston everyday. There are a lot of stupid people out there. It only makes sense that some of them might go climbing Cool

Josh


Partner rgold


Apr 7, 2011, 4:23 AM
Post #29 of 31 (3247 views)
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Re: [tomthedancinghobo] ice climbers stuck on rappel knot [In reply to]
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j ung wrote:
Will you describe the munter pop a bit further? Is it simply a matter of maneuvering the HMS biner so as to remove it from the load line above?


Yes. Open the gate of the munter biner and pivot the biner with gate open so the loaded rope below the biner passes through the gate. There's a little "pop" as the loaded rope twists the biner around, leaving it as if you had just clipped it into the loaded line. Doing this is way easier than describing it.

j ung wrote:
any thoughts on whether a keylock biner might work better than a notched biner?

I think a keylock biner might be slightly easier to unclip, but I don't think the difference is substantial. If the biner is very small, the munter could get in the way of opening the gate, and there could be a bit of wrestling at that point.

tomthedancinghobo wrote:
Maybe I'm not
understanding you correctly, but... Why would you rig a Munter at head level? The strands of that hitch (loaded and brake strands) need to be held parallel, so you'd need to hold your brake arm over your head, wouldn't you?

No, the strands don't need to be held up above the munter biner and it is actually rather a pain to rappel that way when the biner is on the harness belay loop.

But the point about extending the munter to head level is so that you end up fully resting on the tied-off atc before the knot reaches the munter.

tomthedancinghobo wrote:
I know the munter has enough friction that you generally don't need to *actually* line the strands up - even a strong grip will often do - but it seems like some serious built-in awkwardness compared to the relatively simple prusik-detach-reattach-unprussik knot-passing.

tomthedancinghobo wrote:
Once again: it would obviously work, but it seems to add an extra level of complication - a second belay device - without any corresponding payoff.

Your responses make me wonder whether you've actually done the prussik method, which involves several extra complicating factors too. Try both methods on a free-hanging rappel and report back...

Meanwhile, if you go back and read my reply to Magid, you'll see that the prussik method is, at least in my opinion, both more awkward and more complicated, as well as having some potential "gotcha's" that could provoke epics.

moose droppings wrote:
As I rap down on the Munter to the point where the ATC comes tight, will there be a bunch of twists in the line with a possible rats nest between the two since the ATC is attached to my belay loop?

Not necessarily, but it depends on the rope, so a big twist-up could potentially occur. It is easily undone by unclipping the atc from the harness belay loop and letting the rope untwist. Doing this leaves you no more vulnerable than you would be during any ordinary rappel. You need to get the atc clipped back on before it has actually moved too high above the harness loop, but that would certainly be waiting until the last minute...

Edit: If insufficient rope friction from the head-level munter is an issue, you can use a double munter. It takes two "pops" to get this off a loaded line, and you do need a nice large munter biner to accommodate all the turns of rope.


(This post was edited by rgold on Apr 7, 2011, 5:59 AM)


tomthedancinghobo


Apr 7, 2011, 5:03 AM
Post #30 of 31 (3241 views)
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Re: [rgold] ice climbers stuck on rappel knot [In reply to]
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Comprehensive reply!

Sorry to be a troll. Above/looking back, that reply did sound a little pissy.

That said, I don't see the prusik as being that much more complicated. Let it catch just before your device hits the knot, remove and replace the device below the knot, pull up (w/leg wrap if nec.) to unweight the rpusik, loosen it, take the weight on your device, guide the hitch over the knot, and away you go...
I've never pased a knot that way, but I've definitely weighted and unweighted my belay device when freeing stuck ropes, etc, using a prusik above it.
Am I missing something?


moose_droppings


Apr 8, 2011, 10:10 PM
Post #31 of 31 (3168 views)
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Re: [rgold] ice climbers stuck on rappel knot [In reply to]
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Thanks Rich, sounds like an easy enough fix.


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