|
enigma
Apr 19, 2011, 4:25 PM
Post #1 of 86
(16558 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 2279
|
Would enjoy seeing photos, naming climb and place . Prefer a recent onsight done in the last year. All welcome, including pro climbers, as well as all foreign lands. Details welcome.
Thanks for sharing your accomplishments and beta for others.
|
|
|
|
|
darkgift06
Apr 19, 2011, 5:37 PM
Post #2 of 86
(16511 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 16, 2009
Posts: 492
|
I'm just getting serious about trad climbing this year & my hardest lead to date would be a 5.10b onsite that I did a few weeks ago. the climb was a nice face with a broken crack, good pro, except for the last 15ft or so, where I just ran it out.
edit to mention that my hardest sport lead is 5.11a
(This post was edited by darkgift06 on Apr 19, 2011, 5:37 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
esander4
Apr 19, 2011, 6:10 PM
Post #3 of 86
(16478 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 8, 2010
Posts: 245
|
Hardest trad lead was 10a but it wasn't an onsight. Hardest onsight was only a 9. For comparison, my hardest sport onsight was a 11c, hardest sport redpoint was 12a
|
|
|
|
|
potreroed
Apr 19, 2011, 6:16 PM
Post #4 of 86
(16470 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 30, 2001
Posts: 1454
|
My hardest trad onsight was the Leaning Jowler 12a in the Needles of South Dakota. That was 20 years ago.
|
|
|
|
|
BumpinUgly
Apr 19, 2011, 8:04 PM
Post #5 of 86
(16406 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 5, 2011
Posts: 14
|
potreroed wrote: My hardest trad onsight was the Leaning Jowler 12a in the Needles of South Dakota. That was 20 years ago.
Nice! The Needles of SD is one of my faves.
|
|
|
|
|
smallclimber
Apr 20, 2011, 1:25 AM
Post #6 of 86
(16333 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 11, 2003
Posts: 301
|
I led the chimney pitch on Tunnel Vision in Red Rocks. Its only 5.7, and I have led technically harder routes, but this was the most satisfying lead I have done so far.
|
|
|
|
|
rangerrob
Apr 20, 2011, 1:35 AM
Post #7 of 86
(16325 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 8, 2003
Posts: 641
|
Hardest trad pitch I ever tried to onsight was the second pitch of Monkeyfinger in Zion that goes at 11a. ironically, I found it easier than most 5.10's I've tried on the east coast.
RR
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Apr 20, 2011, 2:06 AM
Post #8 of 86
(16303 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
rangerrob wrote: Hardest trad pitch I ever tried to onsight was the second pitch of Monkeyfinger in Zion that goes at 11a. ironically, I found it easier than most 5.10's I've tried on the east coast. RR
Trying to onsight and actual onsighting are different things.
|
|
|
|
|
cornstateclimber
Apr 20, 2011, 2:14 AM
Post #9 of 86
(16299 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 24, 2005
Posts: 324
|
hardest trad was "Never Pass a Chance to get Pumped" 10a, drapers bluff, southern ill. hardest sport onsight 11b, both 4 year ago
|
|
|
|
|
dreday3000
Apr 20, 2011, 2:46 AM
Post #10 of 86
(16289 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 15, 2006
Posts: 566
|
I've onsighted three 12a's. The first was Ananuaki in Indian Creek. Ananuaki was fun but pretty darn easy for a 12a. Probably more like an 11b.
The second was something like "Farewell to Arms" in Boulder Canyon. Nice route but again probably soft for a 12a.
The third was a flash of the Bell at Seneca Rocks. Again, easy for a 12a but scary so probably the most challenging thing I've done.
Biggest sandbag I've done is Drop Zone at Seneca rocks. Rated an 11b but I almost crapped my pants.
The hardest sport climb I've onsighted is 12c.
|
|
|
|
|
esander4
Apr 20, 2011, 4:27 AM
Post #11 of 86
(16251 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 8, 2010
Posts: 245
|
I could take a shower in all this spray (yes this includes my own spray).
|
|
|
|
|
guangzhou
Apr 20, 2011, 6:01 AM
Post #12 of 86
(16213 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 3389
|
Spray is unsolicited, this was asked and some people are choosing to reply.
|
|
|
|
|
enigma
Apr 20, 2011, 6:05 AM
Post #13 of 86
(16211 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 2279
|
dreday3000 wrote: I've onsighted three 12a's. The first was Ananuaki in Indian Creek. Ananuaki was fun but pretty darn easy for a 12a. Probably more like an 11b. The second was something like "Farewell to Arms" in Boulder Canyon. Nice route but again probably soft for a 12a. The third was a flash of the Bell at Seneca Rocks. Again, easy for a 12a but scary so probably the most challenging thing I've done. Biggest sandbag I've done is Drop Zone at Seneca rocks. Rated an 11b but I almost crapped my pants. The hardest sport climb I've onsighted is 12c.
|
|
|
|
|
USnavy
Apr 20, 2011, 7:03 AM
Post #14 of 86
(16196 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 2667
|
caughtinside wrote: rangerrob wrote: Hardest trad pitch I ever tried to onsight was the second pitch of Monkeyfinger in Zion that goes at 11a. ironically, I found it easier than most 5.10's I've tried on the east coast. RR Trying to onsight and actual onsighting are different things.
|
|
|
|
|
scottek67
Apr 20, 2011, 10:33 AM
Post #15 of 86
(16166 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 6, 2008
Posts: 515
|
|
|
|
|
|
dbogardus
Apr 20, 2011, 11:13 AM
Post #16 of 86
(16153 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2009
Posts: 148
|
5.5a
|
|
|
|
|
granite_grrl
Apr 20, 2011, 11:37 AM
Post #17 of 86
(16150 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
|
guangzhou wrote: Spray is unsolicited, this was asked and some people are choosing to reply.
|
|
|
|
|
rrrADAM
Apr 20, 2011, 12:11 PM
Post #18 of 86
(16141 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 19, 1999
Posts: 17553
|
Hardest Onsight: Ten Years After .10d,
Lower Yosemite Falls, Yosemite
Proudest Onsight: Illusion Dweller .10b,
Real Hidden Valey, Joshua Tree, at night
(This post was edited by rrrADAM on Apr 20, 2011, 12:42 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
rtwilli4
Apr 20, 2011, 12:50 PM
Post #19 of 86
(16121 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 14, 2008
Posts: 1867
|
Hardest by grade would be either Welcome to Beauty(11b) at the New or Pigs on the Wing(5.11) at Indian Creek. Pigs... was more desperate because of the ring locks at the top.
The second pitch of Fine Jade in Castle Valley was only my second 5.11 onsight and my first in the desert so it was memorable. Plus I linked it with the second half of the first pitch so it was like 160 feet or something.
Shredded Wheat at Rumbling Bald was my first 11 onsight in NC, so I think it might be my proudest.
(This post was edited by rtwilli4 on Apr 20, 2011, 12:51 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
taydude
Apr 20, 2011, 12:57 PM
Post #20 of 86
(16108 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 25, 2006
Posts: 531
|
My hardest trad onsight was a 5.9 last spring at Eagle Falls in the Adirondacks. I'm still working up to climbing trad at my sport level though :D
|
|
|
|
|
blueeyedclimber
Apr 20, 2011, 2:35 PM
Post #21 of 86
(16077 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602
|
Probably the hardest onsite I have done in the last year was Graveyard Shift (5.10d, says 11a on here) at the Gunks. It's combination of hard moves and suspect gear gave it a very high pucker factor. I impressed myself with that one, even though grade-wise I have climbed harder.
Josh
|
|
|
|
|
wonderwoman
Apr 20, 2011, 2:51 PM
Post #22 of 86
(16069 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 14, 2002
Posts: 4275
|
Probably Le Teton last fall in the Gunks (5.9), even though I have onsighted up to 5.10b in Squamish. Le Teton felt harder.
|
|
|
|
|
blueeyedclimber
Apr 20, 2011, 3:21 PM
Post #23 of 86
(16053 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602
|
Haha! Someone's giving everyone either one star or 3 stars. Personally, I'd rather have the one star, so Thank you! 
Josh
|
|
|
|
|
kappydane
Apr 20, 2011, 4:20 PM
Post #24 of 86
(16023 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 22, 2004
Posts: 119
|
Photo by Cole Fennel. This was rated 5.10d in the old guidebook. I got the onsight and the new guidebook author took the picture. When the new book came out, the route was now a 5.10a!! I accused him of lowering the grade just because this old man onsighted it. He claims that was definitely not the case. Thanks for th great photo Cole.
(This post was edited by kappydane on Apr 20, 2011, 4:21 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
enigma
Apr 20, 2011, 4:26 PM
Post #25 of 86
(16017 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 2279
|
Agree, thanks
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
