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Highgloss
Jun 30, 2011, 9:36 PM
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happiegrrrl
Jun 30, 2011, 9:42 PM
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I use the *proper* commands when I am climbing with someone I don't know, or someone who is the sort who would be upset without that structure. And when my partners cannot easily hear/understand me.
But it's not something I am rigidly rigid about in every circumstance.
More often than not, when my partner is about to cast off and says "climbing, " my response is "May the force be with you." I figure they know I am on the job....
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rockforlife
Jun 30, 2011, 9:45 PM
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happiegrrrl wrote: I use the *proper* commands when I am climbing with someone I don't know, or someone who is the sort who would be upset without that structure. And when my partners cannot easily hear/understand me. But it's not something I am rigidly rigid about in every circumstance. More often than not, when my partner is about to cast off and says "climbing, " my response is "May the force be with you." I figure they know I am on the job....
Like gravity?
Well that's not very nice. 
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Highgloss
Jun 30, 2011, 9:55 PM
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He means the force of gravity when you hit the ground lol.
I think we have all seen Starwars...
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moose_droppings
Jun 30, 2011, 11:38 PM
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Highgloss wrote: So I have been seeing or hearing rather, a lot of climbers at my local climbing areas not using the standard climbing lingo/commands or doing pre-climb safety check. It seems like on average there are about 2-3 climbing deaths per month around the world and most of the time it was rappelling off the end of the rope or not realizing the status of the belay. This seems silly because its so avoidable. Lots of climbers at my local crags don't really make an effort to correctly communicate to each other or check there buddy out before or during the climb. "Here I go" is one I have heard on a few occasions. "Let me down" is another... Is it that hard to say "on belay" or "take" or "climbing"? Is it that embarrassing to climb safely and within your limits? I have had a friend say "F*ck" when he was about fall to and the belayer thought he was saying slack...oops sorry you decked... Lets all just take an extra few minutes to check ourselves and our partners and then practice correct commands.
My favorite is when they yell out to all, " Hey, watch this".
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TarHeelEMT
Jun 30, 2011, 11:53 PM
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"The standard commands aren't really important."
I overheard a gym staff member say that to a new belayer class.
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rtwilli4
Jun 30, 2011, 11:59 PM
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Adam and I say "you with me?" - "I'm with ya."
Gavin and I say "aight?" - "aight."
Kent and I say "you got me?" - "yea, i got ya."
My wife and I say "got me?" -" yup"
Rob and I say... I can't even remember... "cheeseburger?"
You get it?
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jt512
Jul 1, 2011, 12:10 AM
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Highgloss wrote: So I have been seeing or hearing rather, a lot of climbers at my local climbing areas not using the standard climbing lingo/commands or doing pre-climb safety check. It seems like on average there are about 2-3 climbing deaths per month around the world and most of the time it was rappelling off the end of the rope or not realizing the status of the belay. This seems silly because its so avoidable. Lots of climbers at my local crags don't really make an effort to correctly communicate to each other or check there buddy out before or during the climb. "Here I go" is one I have heard on a few occasions. "Let me down" is another... Is it that hard to say "on belay" or "take" or "climbing"? Is it that embarrassing to climb safely and within your limits? I have had a friend say "F*ck" when he was about fall to and the belayer thought he was saying slack...oops sorry you decked... Lets all just take an extra few minutes to check ourselves and our partners and then practice correct commands.
Most experienced climbers think it's a bit silly to go through the whole litany of "On belay?" "Belay on." "Climbing." " Climb on," when both partners are standing two feet away from each other at the base of a route. The formal command sequence has its place, but it's rather pointless to mechanically recite the whole thing at the start of every climb.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Jul 1, 2011, 12:10 AM)
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stealth
Jul 1, 2011, 12:15 AM
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jt512 wrote: Highgloss wrote: So I have been seeing or hearing rather, a lot of climbers at my local climbing areas not using the standard climbing lingo/commands or doing pre-climb safety check. It seems like on average there are about 2-3 climbing deaths per month around the world and most of the time it was rappelling off the end of the rope or not realizing the status of the belay. This seems silly because its so avoidable. Lots of climbers at my local crags don't really make an effort to correctly communicate to each other or check there buddy out before or during the climb. "Here I go" is one I have heard on a few occasions. "Let me down" is another... Is it that hard to say "on belay" or "take" or "climbing"? Is it that embarrassing to climb safely and within your limits? I have had a friend say "F*ck" when he was about fall to and the belayer thought he was saying slack...oops sorry you decked... Lets all just take an extra few minutes to check ourselves and our partners and then practice correct commands. Most experienced climbers think it's a bit silly to go through the whole litany of "On belay?" "Belay on." "Climbing." " Climb on," when both partners are standing two feet away from each other at the base of a route. The formal command sequence has its place, but it's rather pointless to mechanically recite the whole thing at the start of every climb. Jay
He doesn't understand !
El no comprende
You can just stay on rockclimbing.com , much safer indeed!
(This post was edited by stealth on Jul 1, 2011, 12:23 AM)
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jt512
Jul 1, 2011, 12:40 AM
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stealth wrote: jt512 wrote: Highgloss wrote: So I have been seeing or hearing rather, a lot of climbers at my local climbing areas not using the standard climbing lingo/commands or doing pre-climb safety check. It seems like on average there are about 2-3 climbing deaths per month around the world and most of the time it was rappelling off the end of the rope or not realizing the status of the belay. This seems silly because its so avoidable. Lots of climbers at my local crags don't really make an effort to correctly communicate to each other or check there buddy out before or during the climb. "Here I go" is one I have heard on a few occasions. "Let me down" is another... Is it that hard to say "on belay" or "take" or "climbing"? Is it that embarrassing to climb safely and within your limits? I have had a friend say "F*ck" when he was about fall to and the belayer thought he was saying slack...oops sorry you decked... Lets all just take an extra few minutes to check ourselves and our partners and then practice correct commands. Most experienced climbers think it's a bit silly to go through the whole litany of "On belay?" "Belay on." "Climbing." " Climb on," when both partners are standing two feet away from each other at the base of a route. The formal command sequence has its place, but it's rather pointless to mechanically recite the whole thing at the start of every climb. Jay He doesn't understand ! El no comprende You can just stay on rockclimbing.com , much safer indeed!
Hi, Enigma.
Jay
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Highgloss
Jul 1, 2011, 12:55 AM
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Thats the whole point.
You think its silly to follow a standard saftey process and then splat. Sorry dude i didnt here you say "you got me?" it sounded "like look at this tree"....
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Highgloss
Jul 1, 2011, 12:58 AM
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Do you realize that public outlook on rock climbing as a "safe" sport directly effects climbing access issues?
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caughtinside
Jul 1, 2011, 1:07 AM
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Highgloss wrote: Thats the whole point. You think its silly to follow a standard saftey process and then splat. Sorry dude i didnt here you say "you got me?" it sounded "like look at this tree"....
Commands aren't what make you safe.
I'm a fan of marmalade. Tastes great and sounds a lot like On Belay. Try it. Good on english muffins and with climbers who actually know what they are doing.
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Gravitron5000
Jul 1, 2011, 1:12 AM
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Highgloss wrote: You think its silly to follow a standard saftey process and then splat. Sorry dude i didnt here[ you say "you got me?" it sounded "like look at this tree"....
You shouldn't have to say "you got me". If you're off the deck, it should be a given that your belayer plans to stop you from hitting the ground. If it isn't, downclimb and find someone you trust to belay you.
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Highgloss
Jul 1, 2011, 1:22 AM
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I agree, but if you have ever climbed over 80-100 feet you know how hard it is to hear someone on the ground. Especially if its windy or you are above a tree canopy.
I'm not trying to say you have to use the standard commands but for god sakes have a plan, stick to it, and communicate with your partner in the clearest way possible.
Take a look a the last month of climbing accidents and tell me you still agree.
Do you really think this website is for experienced climbers to argue about minute details or is it for the education and support of the next generation of climbing enthusiasts?
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ubu
Jul 1, 2011, 1:44 AM
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Highgloss wrote: I agree, but if you have ever climbed over 80-100 feet you know how hard it is to hear someone on the ground. Especially if its windy or you are above a tree canopy.
Ok, but you were responding to this:
jt512 wrote: Most experienced climbers think it's a bit silly to go through the whole litany of "On belay?" "Belay on." "Climbing." " Climb on," when both partners are standing two feet away from each other at the base of a route. The formal command sequence has its place, but it's rather pointless to mechanically recite the whole thing at the start of every climb. |
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jt512
Jul 1, 2011, 2:03 AM
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Highgloss wrote: Do you really think this website is for experienced climbers to argue about minute details or is it for the education and support of the next generation of climbing enthusiasts?
That could be the funniest thing anyone has ever posted here.
Jay
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gosharks
Jul 1, 2011, 2:33 AM
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Highgloss wrote: I agree, but if you have ever climbed over 80-100 feet you know how hard it is to hear someone on the ground. Especially if its windy or you are above a tree canopy.
And that's exactly when I use the "standard" commands. For pretty much anything else, it's pretty much a "you good?" "yeah" "k, climbing" style of communication.
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j_ung
Jul 1, 2011, 3:25 AM
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I use the standard commands, but I'm not a nazi about them. I'm trying to always do a safety check, though, and I try to watch my partner tie in and rig his/her belay device.
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johnwesely
Jul 1, 2011, 3:30 AM
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Highgloss wrote: Do you really think this website is for experienced climbers to argue about minute details or is it for the education and support of the next generation of climbing enthusiasts?
Climbing enthusiasts can go take a hike.
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macherry
Jul 1, 2011, 3:57 AM
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jt512 wrote: stealth wrote: jt512 wrote: Highgloss wrote: So I have been seeing or hearing rather, a lot of climbers at my local climbing areas not using the standard climbing lingo/commands or doing pre-climb safety check. It seems like on average there are about 2-3 climbing deaths per month around the world and most of the time it was rappelling off the end of the rope or not realizing the status of the belay. This seems silly because its so avoidable. Lots of climbers at my local crags don't really make an effort to correctly communicate to each other or check there buddy out before or during the climb. "Here I go" is one I have heard on a few occasions. "Let me down" is another... Is it that hard to say "on belay" or "take" or "climbing"? Is it that embarrassing to climb safely and within your limits? I have had a friend say "F*ck" when he was about fall to and the belayer thought he was saying slack...oops sorry you decked... Lets all just take an extra few minutes to check ourselves and our partners and then practice correct commands. Most experienced climbers think it's a bit silly to go through the whole litany of "On belay?" "Belay on." "Climbing." " Climb on," when both partners are standing two feet away from each other at the base of a route. The formal command sequence has its place, but it's rather pointless to mechanically recite the whole thing at the start of every climb. Jay He doesn't understand ! El no comprende You can just stay on rockclimbing.com , much safer indeed! Hi, Enigma. Jay
they always come back (tm)
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jomagam
Jul 1, 2011, 5:04 AM
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jt512 wrote: Most experienced climbers think it's a bit silly to go through the whole litany of "On belay?" "Belay on." "Climbing." " Climb on," when both partners are standing two feet away from each other at the base of a route. The formal command sequence has its place, but it's rather pointless to mechanically recite the whole thing at the start of every climb. Jay
That really is silly and only applies to toproping anyways. (Though I like to say "you're on belay" after the climber clips the first bolt, but mostly as a joke). A meaningful pre-climb check would be making sure that
o the climber is tied in correctly
o the belay device is used correctly (grigri and such)
o agree beforehand what happens when the climber finishes the route (lower, rappel, belay from top)
o check that the climber has enough gear with him
I'm sure I missed a few, but the point is to do more concrete checks.
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notapplicable
Jul 1, 2011, 5:38 AM
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jomagam wrote: I'm sure I missed a few, but the point is to do more concrete checks.
Heh
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justroberto
Jul 1, 2011, 5:38 AM
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Once you've been climbing more than six months, you'll realize that there are basically four scenarios when climbing:
1. You and a primary partner, alone without distraction
You start climbing when you're ready; your partner tells you to hold up if he's not.
2. You and a primary partner with distractions, or any other competent, non-primary partner
Quick visual inspection, a head nod or "ready?", then start climbing after affirmation.
3. You and an inexperienced partner
You either don't have them belay you or assume that you're free-soloing. Either way, commands don't matter.
4. You and some form of official, organized group
You use proper commands, and feel like a giant goober for making a point of using/teaching them.
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