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climbingtrash
Jul 11, 2011, 2:38 AM
Post #75976 of 105309
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Two confirmed gopher killz today.
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climbingtrash
Jul 11, 2011, 2:38 AM
Post #75977 of 105309
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little phuckerz is eating all my everystuff.
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climbingtrash
Jul 11, 2011, 2:40 AM
Post #75978 of 105309
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killing sum seeds too
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climbingtrash
Jul 11, 2011, 2:42 AM
Post #75979 of 105309
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don't wanna git phranched by the sn00by
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epoch
Moderator
Jul 11, 2011, 3:25 AM
Post #75980 of 105309
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carabiner96 wrote: caughtinside wrote: Oh yes... the rangers were out and writing tickets yesterday. $75 fine for not paying for a $5 day parking pass, yuck. Mo, if you get that parks Access Pass (is that the one?) we can use it to save half the camping fee. They have traditional ranger booths there, right? I might have to get one there in person, I don't think I can do it online. Will bring an official document certifying my gimpiness, because waving your stump at them isn't enough (apparently.)
I would suggest that you and the dog take a vakashun to see your rents and dew it at Acadia in the next tew oar threa weaks.
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carabiner96
Jul 11, 2011, 3:28 AM
Post #75981 of 105309
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epoch wrote: carabiner96 wrote: caughtinside wrote: Oh yes... the rangers were out and writing tickets yesterday. $75 fine for not paying for a $5 day parking pass, yuck. Mo, if you get that parks Access Pass (is that the one?) we can use it to save half the camping fee. They have traditional ranger booths there, right? I might have to get one there in person, I don't think I can do it online. Will bring an official document certifying my gimpiness, because waving your stump at them isn't enough (apparently.) Nerp. I would suggest that you and the dog take a vakashun to see your rents and dew it at Acadia in the next tew oar threa weaks.
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epoch
Moderator
Jul 11, 2011, 3:37 AM
Post #75982 of 105309
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carabiner96 wrote: epoch wrote: carabiner96 wrote: caughtinside wrote: Oh yes... the rangers were out and writing tickets yesterday. $75 fine for not paying for a $5 day parking pass, yuck. Mo, if you get that parks Access Pass (is that the one?) we can use it to save half the camping fee. They have traditional ranger booths there, right? I might have to get one there in person, I don't think I can do it online. Will bring an official document certifying my gimpiness, because waving your stump at them isn't enough (apparently.) Nerp. I would suggest that you and the dog take a vakashun to see your rents and dew it at Acadia in the next tew oar threa weaks. Was just there. We're doing 6 flags the weekend before Cali, so I'm pretty booked up.
If I can scrounge up the cash I am going to get down to Cabrillo and get an inter-agency pass.
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granite_grrl
Jul 11, 2011, 11:35 AM
Post #75983 of 105309
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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wanderlustmd wrote: Saw Chossy in marmot form today up at Olmstead. Those little guys are everywhere. How's Smith this time of year? Thinking of stopping in on my way to Leavenworth.
I've never seen a marmot I don't think, but on the two trips I've made to the Canmore area I've seen a lot of pikas.
cute!
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imnotclever
Jul 11, 2011, 1:00 PM
Post #75984 of 105309
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Registered: Sep 8, 2003
Posts: 10000
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carabiner96 wrote: jakedatc wrote: Diphthong wrote: jakedatc wrote: carabiner96 wrote: Diphthong wrote: carabiner96 wrote: How do you californyuns deal with no seasons? The lumberjack keeps getting calls from google to go work for them. Mt View seems right in the thick of socak though. Not sure if it's my thing. Classic. Do you have some sort of internal clock that tells you it's time to go on another foolhardy relocation plan? I'm sure I've been GUd, but Mt View certainly isn't "right in the thick" of anything other than Silicon Valley. I'm accustomed to living in the middle of nowhere, anything with more than ten stoplights looks thick. uhmm... you know Silicon valley isn't in the "middle of nowhere" in the way you are thinking.. [image]http://activerain.com/image_store/uploads/5/8/0/5/5/ar121806403155085.jpg[/image] I believe that was her point. But mine was that in the grand scheme of all that is great in the land of milk and honey, Silicon Valley ain't shit. oo read hers wrong ;) was too busy watching more collarbones get smashed to pieces in todays tdf stage. Get a job, hippie!
I haven't seen any of the tdf yet this year. so sad.
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drivel
Jul 11, 2011, 2:10 PM
Post #75985 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 22, 2010
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caughtinside wrote: Back from the Leap. The terrierist is still azleep. He is totally worked. Thursday went out to Eagle Lake cliffs, the tahoe crack climbing spot. Got in a few good ones. We walked down to a newish crag below to do some stuff but it was totally drenched. There were two dry routes so we did them. written description was unclear, tried to warm up on a .9 but it turned out to be a heads up .10b. Way cool though. Between Two worlds. I think I used all my tiny stoppers. Went back to the main area and did a pretty sweet overhanging handcrack, Flight Simulator maybe was the name? I thought it was .10c but the guidebook fluff rating was .11a , so I got the softzight. Fireman Mike was there and had his rope up on the Spacewalk. He does a variation where you only climb the right side finger crack to start and avoid the flare. STandard way is .11c/d or so, and his variation he thinks is .12a? Steep cranker fingers, I can get up it on TR but there is one move I can't really free. Overhangs 5 degrees or so and there is a purple camalot section with sharp locks and no feet. Kaboom, this climb is on the cover of the Tahoe guide you got. Pretty rad. Mike just walks the thing. Yesterday went back to the leap with the Aerili. We were both a little tired but she was able to rp the billy route on the ledge, and then we chased shade down below to Magnum Force. I followed it 4 years ago and had to hang to get out a cam. Got it clean this time but shit it is hard for .10b. Feels a lot like tombstone, but longer. Has a dicey dicey start, way bouldery and you have to do a 5.10 mantle 20 feet up, above a #2 peenut. I pulled the move onto the ledge and my neck promptly cramped. ouch!!! Rest of the pitch was bitchen good fingerlocks with ok smears, secure but taxing and physical. Aerili had to hang to pull a cam in the same spot I did 4 years ago. It might just be a follower problem... you place it then traverse, so the rope is pulling on it making it tricky to finesse out. After that, moved the rope over to the Mainline for a tr run. The shared start is hard even on TR, ugh. Middle section not so bad and the thin hands to ring crux is nasty!! still, I got it on my third try, once I had the sequence figured. The crux is short, gearz good and the feet are better than I thought they would be so I think it will be a very manageable rp. Much more straightforward than Purple Haze. Hiked down, ran into Petch and Squirrel and had a beer, headed out. I'll be back up there on Wednesday looks like.
sounds like a sweet weekend.
my report:
I haven't been out climbing in like three weeks, due to dancing/stuff/life, and I have barely been in the gym in that time, because the bouldering co-op/garage space is not cooled. and it is an oven at the moment. way nasty to climb in. I did break down and go climb at the local uni wall once. they have to hire work study students, and consequently, almost all the employees are bitches.
anyway, went out to the lake on saturday, expected it to be super crowded, but it was actually pretty chill. theme of the wekeend. i guess maybe its getting hot enough that ppl are staying home. got the .11d sport line that was breaking my heart last time we were there, with the icing-on-top hard move to the anchors. convinced my buddy to hang the draws for me even though it was a little bit in the sun an 80 something degrees out. he hung a few times, and was annoyed that conditions werent better, 'cause the route is fucking awesome. then I redsighted it! it has a ton of big moves and is class nrg crimp-highstep reachy. i was psyched. and played on a .12b called "all the way baby" because sprayack was set up to take pics. is called that because there is a huge move in it. i never thought i'd be able to do it, because i didn't think my arms would span the two holds. and it turns out that's true- i cannot be on both holds at the same time. but i almost got it anyway. chuckin' real hard and hitting the far hold but not quite stickin. then, walked over to where the guys were, and they'd already pulled all but two draws on the other .12 they were on, that I rp'd last time we were at the lake. i was like wait wait i wanted to go up it and promised to hang my own draws like a big boy and everything. so I did that, and I only once, I was pretty psyched. then I did some dumb/futile playing around on some super steep stuff with fixie gear and then we went swimming. gud day.
sunday, we again had way fewer crowds to fight than I thought we would. I onsighted another .11c and flashed the one adjacent to it. and a third of the grade that I also hadnt been on before, I one-hung. I was pretty psyched. good couple of days, very tired. rolled back into town at midnight.
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drivel
Jul 11, 2011, 2:13 PM
Post #75986 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 22, 2010
Posts: 2459
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drivel wrote: caughtinside wrote: Back from the Leap. The terrierist is still azleep. He is totally worked. Thursday went out to Eagle Lake cliffs, the tahoe crack climbing spot. Got in a few good ones. We walked down to a newish crag below to do some stuff but it was totally drenched. There were two dry routes so we did them. written description was unclear, tried to warm up on a .9 but it turned out to be a heads up .10b. Way cool though. Between Two worlds. I think I used all my tiny stoppers. Went back to the main area and did a pretty sweet overhanging handcrack, Flight Simulator maybe was the name? I thought it was .10c but the guidebook fluff rating was .11a , so I got the softzight. Fireman Mike was there and had his rope up on the Spacewalk. He does a variation where you only climb the right side finger crack to start and avoid the flare. STandard way is .11c/d or so, and his variation he thinks is .12a? Steep cranker fingers, I can get up it on TR but there is one move I can't really free. Overhangs 5 degrees or so and there is a purple camalot section with sharp locks and no feet. Kaboom, this climb is on the cover of the Tahoe guide you got. Pretty rad. Mike just walks the thing. Yesterday went back to the leap with the Aerili. We were both a little tired but she was able to rp the billy route on the ledge, and then we chased shade down below to Magnum Force. I followed it 4 years ago and had to hang to get out a cam. Got it clean this time but shit it is hard for .10b. Feels a lot like tombstone, but longer. Has a dicey dicey start, way bouldery and you have to do a 5.10 mantle 20 feet up, above a #2 peenut. I pulled the move onto the ledge and my neck promptly cramped. ouch!!! Rest of the pitch was bitchen good fingerlocks with ok smears, secure but taxing and physical. Aerili had to hang to pull a cam in the same spot I did 4 years ago. It might just be a follower problem... you place it then traverse, so the rope is pulling on it making it tricky to finesse out. After that, moved the rope over to the Mainline for a tr run. The shared start is hard even on TR, ugh. Middle section not so bad and the thin hands to ring crux is nasty!! still, I got it on my third try, once I had the sequence figured. The crux is short, gearz good and the feet are better than I thought they would be so I think it will be a very manageable rp. Much more straightforward than Purple Haze. Hiked down, ran into Petch and Squirrel and had a beer, headed out. I'll be back up there on Wednesday looks like. sounds like a sweet weekend. my report: I haven't been out climbing in like three weeks, due to dancing/stuff/life, and I have barely been in the gym in that time, because the bouldering co-op/garage space is not cooled. and it is an oven at the moment. way nasty to climb in. I did break down and go climb at the local uni wall once. they have to hire work study students, and consequently, almost all the employees are bitches. but they have air conditioning. anyway, went out to the lake on saturday, expected it to be super crowded, but it was actually pretty chill. theme of the wekeend. i guess maybe its getting hot enough that ppl are staying home. got the .11d sport line that was breaking my heart last time we were there, with the icing-on-top hard move to the anchors. convinced my buddy to hang the draws for me even though it was a little bit in the sun an 80 something degrees out. he hung a few times, and was annoyed that conditions werent better, 'cause the route is fucking awesome. then I redsighted it! it has a ton of big moves and is class nrg crimp-highstep reachy. i was psyched. and played on a .12b called "all the way baby" because sprayack was set up to take pics. is called that because there is a huge move in it. i never thought i'd be able to do it, because i didn't think my arms would span the two holds. and it turns out that's true- i cannot be on both holds at the same time. but i almost got it anyway. chuckin' real hard and hitting the far hold but not quite stickin. then, walked over to where the guys were, and they'd already pulled all but two draws on the other .12 they were on, that I rp'd last time we were at the lake. i was like wait wait i wanted to go up it and promised to hang my own draws like a big boy and everything. so I did that, and I only once, I was pretty psyched. then I did some dumb/futile playing around on some super steep stuff with fixie gear and then we went swimming. gud day. sunday, we again had way fewer crowds to fight than I thought we would. I onsighted another .11c and flashed the one adjacent to it. and a third of the grade that I also hadnt been on before, I one-hung. I was pretty psyched. good couple of days, very tired. rolled back into town at midnight.
important detail left out. fixied.
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Diphthong
Jul 11, 2011, 3:30 PM
Post #75987 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 5, 2011
Posts: 2639
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caughtinside wrote: kachoong wrote: caughtinside wrote: kachoong wrote: caughtinside wrote: Back from the Leap. The terrierist is still azleep. He is totally worked. Thursday went out to Eagle Lake cliffs, the tahoe crack climbing spot. Got in a few good ones. We walked down to a newish crag below to do some stuff but it was totally drenched. There were two dry routes so we did them. written description was unclear, tried to warm up on a .9 but it turned out to be a heads up .10b. Way cool though. Between Two worlds. I think I used all my tiny stoppers. Went back to the main area and did a pretty sweet overhanging handcrack, Flight Simulator maybe was the name? I thought it was .10c but the guidebook fluff rating was .11a , so I got the softzight. Fireman Mike was there and had his rope up on the Spacewalk. He does a variation where you only climb the right side finger crack to start and avoid the flare. STandard way is .11c/d or so, and his variation he thinks is .12a? Steep cranker fingers, I can get up it on TR but there is one move I can't really free. Overhangs 5 degrees or so and there is a purple camalot section with sharp locks and no feet. Kaboom, this climb is on the cover of the Tahoe guide you got. Pretty rad. Mike just walks the thing. Yesterday went back to the leap with the Aerili. We were both a little tired but she was able to rp the billy route on the ledge, and then we chased shade down below to Magnum Force. I followed it 4 years ago and had to hang to get out a cam. Got it clean this time but shit it is hard for .10b. Feels a lot like tombstone, but longer. Has a dicey dicey start, way bouldery and you have to do a 5.10 mantle 20 feet up, above a #2 peenut. I pulled the move onto the ledge and my neck promptly cramped. ouch!!! Rest of the pitch was bitchen good fingerlocks with ok smears, secure but taxing and physical. Aerili had to hang to pull a cam in the same spot I did 4 years ago. It might just be a follower problem... you place it then traverse, so the rope is pulling on it making it tricky to finesse out. After that, moved the rope over to the Mainline for a tr run. The shared start is hard even on TR, ugh. Middle section not so bad and the thin hands to ring crux is nasty!! still, I got it on my third try, once I had the sequence figured. The crux is short, gearz good and the feet are better than I thought they would be so I think it will be a very manageable rp. Much more straightforward than Purple Haze. Hiked down, ran into Petch and Squirrel and had a beer, headed out. I'll be back up there on Wednesday looks like. Dude, yore really getting some miles in this year. I need to quit my jorb and tour around constantly climbing... would be grate! That cover climb looks pretty sweet. I'm at least a year out from climbing like that. I have been eyeing Hospital corner in the guide though. That thing looks doable for me... we'll see. I'd like to hop on some of those 8 and 9 face dike climbs too. Four weeks! Yeah, been climbing a bunch. Easier now that I've got some places to stay in South Lake. Hospital is a mega classic, the best .10a at the Leap. Plus, you can do it, rap back down, and do the crux pitch of West Wall (.8) right there which is also mega cool, more bang for your buck since you are already a pitch up. In addition to the famous .8 and .9 dike pitches on the East Wall, I know of a good dozen that are of similar quality that never get done. Sounds fantastic! Something I can hope to Redsight after a few days of getting used to the rock. I look forward to trying lots of less-traveled climbs... keep away from the crowds, eh? Yes, the fabled crowds of the leap actually only exist on the following routes: Haystack East Crack Bear's Reach The Line Traveler Buttress Corrugation Corner Surrealistic Pillar And even those are only gnarly on the weekend. Midweek getting on them is no biggie.
Bear's Reach? Why, I heard that's the best 7 eva!
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Diphthong
Jul 11, 2011, 3:32 PM
Post #75988 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 5, 2011
Posts: 2639
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climbingtrash wrote: kachoong wrote: caughtinside wrote: kachoong wrote: caughtinside wrote: kachoong wrote: caughtinside wrote: Back from the Leap. The terrierist is still azleep. He is totally worked. Thursday went out to Eagle Lake cliffs, the tahoe crack climbing spot. Got in a few good ones. We walked down to a newish crag below to do some stuff but it was totally drenched. There were two dry routes so we did them. written description was unclear, tried to warm up on a .9 but it turned out to be a heads up .10b. Way cool though. Between Two worlds. I think I used all my tiny stoppers. Went back to the main area and did a pretty sweet overhanging handcrack, Flight Simulator maybe was the name? I thought it was .10c but the guidebook fluff rating was .11a , so I got the softzight. Fireman Mike was there and had his rope up on the Spacewalk. He does a variation where you only climb the right side finger crack to start and avoid the flare. STandard way is .11c/d or so, and his variation he thinks is .12a? Steep cranker fingers, I can get up it on TR but there is one move I can't really free. Overhangs 5 degrees or so and there is a purple camalot section with sharp locks and no feet. Kaboom, this climb is on the cover of the Tahoe guide you got. Pretty rad. Mike just walks the thing. Yesterday went back to the leap with the Aerili. We were both a little tired but she was able to rp the billy route on the ledge, and then we chased shade down below to Magnum Force. I followed it 4 years ago and had to hang to get out a cam. Got it clean this time but shit it is hard for .10b. Feels a lot like tombstone, but longer. Has a dicey dicey start, way bouldery and you have to do a 5.10 mantle 20 feet up, above a #2 peenut. I pulled the move onto the ledge and my neck promptly cramped. ouch!!! Rest of the pitch was bitchen good fingerlocks with ok smears, secure but taxing and physical. Aerili had to hang to pull a cam in the same spot I did 4 years ago. It might just be a follower problem... you place it then traverse, so the rope is pulling on it making it tricky to finesse out. After that, moved the rope over to the Mainline for a tr run. The shared start is hard even on TR, ugh. Middle section not so bad and the thin hands to ring crux is nasty!! still, I got it on my third try, once I had the sequence figured. The crux is short, gearz good and the feet are better than I thought they would be so I think it will be a very manageable rp. Much more straightforward than Purple Haze. Hiked down, ran into Petch and Squirrel and had a beer, headed out. I'll be back up there on Wednesday looks like. Dude, yore really getting some miles in this year. I need to quit my jorb and tour around constantly climbing... would be grate! That cover climb looks pretty sweet. I'm at least a year out from climbing like that. I have been eyeing Hospital corner in the guide though. That thing looks doable for me... we'll see. I'd like to hop on some of those 8 and 9 face dike climbs too. Four weeks! Yeah, been climbing a bunch. Easier now that I've got some places to stay in South Lake. Hospital is a mega classic, the best .10a at the Leap. Plus, you can do it, rap back down, and do the crux pitch of West Wall (.8) right there which is also mega cool, more bang for your buck since you are already a pitch up. In addition to the famous .8 and .9 dike pitches on the East Wall, I know of a good dozen that are of similar quality that never get done. Sounds fantastic! Something I can hope to Redsight after a few days of getting used to the rock. I look forward to trying lots of less-traveled climbs... keep away from the crowds, eh? Yes, the fabled crowds of the leap actually only exist on the following routes: Haystack East Crack Bear's Reach The Line Traveler Buttress Corrugation Corner Surrealistic Pillar And even those are only gnarly on the weekend. Midweek getting on them is no biggie. I'll just be very happy getting on new rock, a new crag and getting more climbing under my belt for the year. Goal will be 30 pitches.30 pitches in a weekend? You know the approach isn't counted as a pitch.
Yore mathz are rong. But for spraying sake, I got 32 pitches in in two daze with a complete stranger at Arapiles. It was GUd stuff.
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Diphthong
Jul 11, 2011, 3:33 PM
Post #75989 of 105309
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dr_feelgood wrote: kachoong wrote: Holy crap! More carshes in the TDF today... one very spectacular one with a team car swiping out a couple, with one guys flying head over 20ft into a barb wire fence. NASCAR for nerds.
drup.
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Diphthong
Jul 11, 2011, 3:35 PM
Post #75990 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: went to holcomb valley yesterday for a nice group splinter fakshun meetup. poured out somebody else's crappy beer for AB (4 whom hel iz lngr). zent teh Incinerator despite blutarski's attempts to pull me off on the dyno move; blutarski did not zend. we both got our asses handed to us on teh rode krew at teh end of the day. there is some possibility he's zent teh incinerator today, though, which would certainly be unfortunate.
Oh, you mean yore pinkpoint of Incinerator? How cute. I skampered up it on Sunday, laffed, then downgraded it.
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caughtinside
Jul 11, 2011, 3:38 PM
Post #75991 of 105309
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
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wanderlustmd wrote: Saw Chossy in marmot form today up at Olmstead. Those little guys are everywhere. How's Smith this time of year? Thinking of stopping in on my way to Leavenworth.
Smith is likely hot... but you can chase shade. The lower Gorge area might be good.
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Diphthong
Jul 11, 2011, 3:38 PM
Post #75992 of 105309
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granite_grrl wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: Saw Chossy in marmot form today up at Olmstead. Those little guys are everywhere. How's Smith this time of year? Thinking of stopping in on my way to Leavenworth. I've never seen a marmot I don't think, but on the two trips I've made to the Canmore area I've seen a lot of pikas. cute! [image]http://ferrebeekeeper.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/3516.jpg[/image]
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meatbomz
Jul 11, 2011, 3:40 PM
Post #75993 of 105309
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Diphthong wrote: granite_grrl wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: Saw Chossy in marmot form today up at Olmstead. Those little guys are everywhere. How's Smith this time of year? Thinking of stopping in on my way to Leavenworth. I've never seen a marmot I don't think, but on the two trips I've made to the Canmore area I've seen a lot of pikas. cute! [image]http://ferrebeekeeper.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/3516.jpg[/image]
Wuntz werk dun. Now! NOW!!!
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caughtinside
Jul 11, 2011, 3:45 PM
Post #75994 of 105309
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Diphthong wrote: caughtinside wrote: kachoong wrote: caughtinside wrote: kachoong wrote: caughtinside wrote: Back from the Leap. The terrierist is still azleep. He is totally worked. Thursday went out to Eagle Lake cliffs, the tahoe crack climbing spot. Got in a few good ones. We walked down to a newish crag below to do some stuff but it was totally drenched. There were two dry routes so we did them. written description was unclear, tried to warm up on a .9 but it turned out to be a heads up .10b. Way cool though. Between Two worlds. I think I used all my tiny stoppers. Went back to the main area and did a pretty sweet overhanging handcrack, Flight Simulator maybe was the name? I thought it was .10c but the guidebook fluff rating was .11a , so I got the softzight. Fireman Mike was there and had his rope up on the Spacewalk. He does a variation where you only climb the right side finger crack to start and avoid the flare. STandard way is .11c/d or so, and his variation he thinks is .12a? Steep cranker fingers, I can get up it on TR but there is one move I can't really free. Overhangs 5 degrees or so and there is a purple camalot section with sharp locks and no feet. Kaboom, this climb is on the cover of the Tahoe guide you got. Pretty rad. Mike just walks the thing. Yesterday went back to the leap with the Aerili. We were both a little tired but she was able to rp the billy route on the ledge, and then we chased shade down below to Magnum Force. I followed it 4 years ago and had to hang to get out a cam. Got it clean this time but shit it is hard for .10b. Feels a lot like tombstone, but longer. Has a dicey dicey start, way bouldery and you have to do a 5.10 mantle 20 feet up, above a #2 peenut. I pulled the move onto the ledge and my neck promptly cramped. ouch!!! Rest of the pitch was bitchen good fingerlocks with ok smears, secure but taxing and physical. Aerili had to hang to pull a cam in the same spot I did 4 years ago. It might just be a follower problem... you place it then traverse, so the rope is pulling on it making it tricky to finesse out. After that, moved the rope over to the Mainline for a tr run. The shared start is hard even on TR, ugh. Middle section not so bad and the thin hands to ring crux is nasty!! still, I got it on my third try, once I had the sequence figured. The crux is short, gearz good and the feet are better than I thought they would be so I think it will be a very manageable rp. Much more straightforward than Purple Haze. Hiked down, ran into Petch and Squirrel and had a beer, headed out. I'll be back up there on Wednesday looks like. Dude, yore really getting some miles in this year. I need to quit my jorb and tour around constantly climbing... would be grate! That cover climb looks pretty sweet. I'm at least a year out from climbing like that. I have been eyeing Hospital corner in the guide though. That thing looks doable for me... we'll see. I'd like to hop on some of those 8 and 9 face dike climbs too. Four weeks! Yeah, been climbing a bunch. Easier now that I've got some places to stay in South Lake. Hospital is a mega classic, the best .10a at the Leap. Plus, you can do it, rap back down, and do the crux pitch of West Wall (.8) right there which is also mega cool, more bang for your buck since you are already a pitch up. In addition to the famous .8 and .9 dike pitches on the East Wall, I know of a good dozen that are of similar quality that never get done. Sounds fantastic! Something I can hope to Redsight after a few days of getting used to the rock. I look forward to trying lots of less-traveled climbs... keep away from the crowds, eh? Yes, the fabled crowds of the leap actually only exist on the following routes: Haystack East Crack Bear's Reach The Line Traveler Buttress Corrugation Corner Surrealistic Pillar And even those are only gnarly on the weekend. Midweek getting on them is no biggie. Bear's Reach? Why, I heard that's the best 7 eva!
Yes, the best .7 in the world. Worth driving 8 hours to climb it and drive home.
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caughtinside
Jul 11, 2011, 3:47 PM
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
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Diphthong wrote: snoopy138 wrote: went to holcomb valley yesterday for a nice group splinter fakshun meetup. poured out somebody else's crappy beer for AB (4 whom hel iz lngr). zent teh Incinerator despite blutarski's attempts to pull me off on the dyno move; blutarski did not zend. we both got our asses handed to us on teh rode krew at teh end of the day. there is some possibility he's zent teh incinerator today, though, which would certainly be unfortunate. Oh, you mean yore pinkpoint of Incinerator? How cute. I skampered up it on Sunday, laffed, then downgraded it.
Looking at the proj, it appears you upgraded it.
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granite_grrl
Jul 11, 2011, 3:49 PM
Post #75996 of 105309
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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Diphthong wrote: granite_grrl wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: Saw Chossy in marmot form today up at Olmstead. Those little guys are everywhere. How's Smith this time of year? Thinking of stopping in on my way to Leavenworth. I've never seen a marmot I don't think, but on the two trips I've made to the Canmore area I've seen a lot of pikas. cute! [image]http://ferrebeekeeper.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/3516.jpg[/image] [image]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Jn6psx_J8K8/SwzwSNnKE8I/AAAAAAAAGhk/AHjtlT8rAvY/s512/Marmot%2525201-%252520Yosemite%25252092109.jpg[/image] 
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Diphthong
Jul 11, 2011, 3:52 PM
Post #75997 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 5, 2011
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caughtinside wrote: Diphthong wrote: snoopy138 wrote: went to holcomb valley yesterday for a nice group splinter fakshun meetup. poured out somebody else's crappy beer for AB (4 whom hel iz lngr). zent teh Incinerator despite blutarski's attempts to pull me off on the dyno move; blutarski did not zend. we both got our asses handed to us on teh rode krew at teh end of the day. there is some possibility he's zent teh incinerator today, though, which would certainly be unfortunate. Oh, you mean yore pinkpoint of Incinerator? How cute. I skampered up it on Sunday, laffed, then downgraded it. Looking at the proj, it appears you upgraded it.
Carp. I have a habit of using the neutral/plus/minus grades when routes don't really grade well with YDS, even though I know that that's not how MP uses those ratings.
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kachoong
Jul 11, 2011, 3:53 PM
Post #75998 of 105309
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
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caughtinside wrote: Diphthong wrote: snoopy138 wrote: went to holcomb valley yesterday for a nice group splinter fakshun meetup. poured out somebody else's crappy beer for AB (4 whom hel iz lngr). zent teh Incinerator despite blutarski's attempts to pull me off on the dyno move; blutarski did not zend. we both got our asses handed to us on teh rode krew at teh end of the day. there is some possibility he's zent teh incinerator today, though, which would certainly be unfortunate. Oh, you mean yore pinkpoint of Incinerator? How cute. I skampered up it on Sunday, laffed, then downgraded it. Looking at the proj, it appears you upgraded it.
Perhaps he meant downrated it?
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Diphthong
Jul 11, 2011, 3:54 PM
Post #75999 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 5, 2011
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kachoong wrote: caughtinside wrote: Diphthong wrote: snoopy138 wrote: went to holcomb valley yesterday for a nice group splinter fakshun meetup. poured out somebody else's crappy beer for AB (4 whom hel iz lngr). zent teh Incinerator despite blutarski's attempts to pull me off on the dyno move; blutarski did not zend. we both got our asses handed to us on teh rode krew at teh end of the day. there is some possibility he's zent teh incinerator today, though, which would certainly be unfortunate. Oh, you mean yore pinkpoint of Incinerator? How cute. I skampered up it on Sunday, laffed, then downgraded it. Looking at the proj, it appears you upgraded it. Perhaps he meant downrated it?
Nurp. it was an old rating, before I figured out the stupid dyno move
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Diphthong
Jul 11, 2011, 3:54 PM
Post #76000 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 5, 2011
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Greenies cant get PTFTW.
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