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meatbomz
Jul 15, 2011, 3:46 PM
Post #76276 of 105309
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edge wrote: meatbomz wrote: Great evening in Cathedral last night. Led the first pitch of Kinesis which was a little wobbly right out of the car. Then the hardest 5.8 pitch in the world, the second pitch of Diedre. Topped out following the spectacular Budapest. Never thought I'd say it, but what an amazing pitch of thin jamming! Ran down to the North End and cruised They Died Laughing, which may still be my favoritest pitch ever. Finished up with the redsight of Recluse, my first 10d at Cathedral. Nice sends. Haven't done Budapest; how was the gear? First time I did Recluse there was a 2 1/2" birch tree growing out of the crack just after the crux. The gear is great on Budapest. Everyone seems to take the big whippers on the purple up high at the crux bulge but Erik got it clean last night. Recluse is a great 10d. You place a bomber C3 off the ground, do a hard move to a tight finger lock with the piece at your waist, then a couple of foot movements to get into a slammer hand jam. Then cruiser 5.9 hands to the top. My kind of climb.
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Diphthong
Jul 15, 2011, 3:46 PM
Post #76277 of 105309
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Suk it Greenie(s)
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Diphthong
Jul 15, 2011, 3:46 PM
Post #76278 of 105309
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meatbomz wrote: edge wrote: meatbomz wrote: Great evening in Cathedral last night. Led the first pitch of Kinesis which was a little wobbly right out of the car. Then the hardest 5.8 pitch in the world, the second pitch of Diedre. Topped out following the spectacular Budapest. Never thought I'd say it, but what an amazing pitch of thin jamming! Ran down to the North End and cruised They Died Laughing, which may still be my favoritest pitch ever. Finished up with the redsight of Recluse, my first 10d at Cathedral. Nice sends. Haven't done Budapest; how was the gear? First time I did Recluse there was a 2 1/2" birch tree growing out of the crack just after the crux. The gear is great on Budapest. Everyone seems to take the big whippers on the purple up high at the crux bulge but Erik got it clean last night. Recluse is a great 10d. You place a bomber C3 off the ground, do a hard move to a tight finger lock with the piece at your waist, then a couple of foot movements to get into a slammer hand jam. Then cruiser 5.9 hands to the top. My kind of climb. O rly?
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Diphthong
Jul 15, 2011, 3:56 PM
Post #76279 of 105309
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Better load this up.
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Diphthong
Jul 15, 2011, 3:56 PM
Post #76280 of 105309
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SP(fri) > SP(avg)
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Diphthong
Jul 15, 2011, 3:57 PM
Post #76281 of 105309
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meatbomz wrote: Recluse is a great 10d. You place a bomber C3 off the ground, do a hard move to a tight finger lock with the piece at your waist, then a couple of foot movements to get into a slammer hand jam. C3z are bomber by nature.
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Diphthong
Jul 15, 2011, 3:58 PM
Post #76282 of 105309
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meatbomz wrote: Then cruiser 5.9 hands to the top. My kind of climb. So, it's an off-width?
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snoopy138
Jul 15, 2011, 3:59 PM
Post #76283 of 105309
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meatbomz wrote: Great evening in Cathedral last night. Led the first pitch of Kinesis which was a little wobbly right out of the car. Then the hardest 5.8 pitch in the world, the second pitch of Diedre. Topped out following the spectacular Budapest. Never thought I'd say it, but what an amazing pitch of thin jamming! Ran down to the North End and cruised They Died Laughing, which may still be my favoritest pitch ever. Finished up with the redsight of Recluse, my first 10d at Cathedral. how were teh wimminz on budapest?
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meatbomz
Jul 15, 2011, 3:59 PM
Post #76284 of 105309
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Diphthong wrote: meatbomz wrote: Recluse is a great 10d. You place a bomber C3 off the ground, do a hard move to a tight finger lock with the piece at your waist, then a couple of foot movements to get into a slammer hand jam. C3z are bomber by nature. I've warmed to them after watching a friend who was pink-pointing my gear placements take a 30' onto the yellow (green alien).
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snoopy138
Jul 15, 2011, 4:01 PM
Post #76285 of 105309
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Diphthong wrote: meatbomz wrote: Diphthong wrote: drivel wrote: snoopy138 wrote: Diphthong wrote: snoopy138 wrote: kachoong wrote: granite_grrl wrote: Going climbing today...whooo! I havesta remember to tape up my finger this time....it's been hurting. Looks like I won't be touching rawk until teh Lepe trip. I'm gonna need the Sat and half of Sun of the trip to get back into it. hopefully heading to tik rok saturday morning. not looking forward to teh drive bak with this jiant traffic debacle we're supposed to be having. Carmageddon 2011! yes, I'm trying to avoid that ketchfraze. why are you having a carmagedon? Because of the self-serving nature of SoCakians and our preference for Cadillac Escalades and 14-lane highways instead of public transport. Carpe Diem if you will. Karmagedon Theeeeeyyyrreeee Heeeeeeerrrrreeeeee The gf headed south out of LA yesterday, made it about 7 miles in a about an hour and a half before turning back around. Which took her another hour and a half to get back home. Teh Exodus has begun. that sounds pleasant. I might stay at werk until 9 today since they are klosing teh freeway at 7 and it will be a shitshow getting home. you should have a fun drive up from yore jorb.
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snoopy138
Jul 15, 2011, 4:01 PM
Post #76286 of 105309
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Diphthong wrote: edge wrote: meatbomz wrote: Great evening in Cathedral last night. Led the first pitch of Kinesis which was a little wobbly right out of the car. Then the hardest 5.8 pitch in the world, the second pitch of Diedre. Topped out following the spectacular Budapest. Never thought I'd say it, but what an amazing pitch of thin jamming! Ran down to the North End and cruised They Died Laughing, which may still be my favoritest pitch ever. Finished up with the redsight of Recluse, my first 10d at Cathedral. Nice sends. Haven't done Budapest; how was the gear? First time I did Recluse there was a 2 1/2" birch tree growing out of the crack just after the crux. You know what I have to say about that? just guessing, but probibly something about a PTFTW.
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snoopy138
Jul 15, 2011, 4:03 PM
Post #76287 of 105309
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Diphthong wrote: meatbomz wrote: Then cruiser 5.9 hands to the top. My kind of climb. So, it's an off-width? fiztz
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granite_grrl
Jul 15, 2011, 4:06 PM
Post #76288 of 105309
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I've been busy busy busy all morning and I feel that all I have to show for it is only 20% or my plants properly watered in the back yard. Was hoping to get out for a bike ride too, but the truck needs an oil changed and it's getting hot out there. Not working next week as expected, they pushed it off until the beginning of August. I'd much rather be in a plant making money with the summer heat than landscaping...also wouldn't mind the money sooner than later, but such is life.
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Diphthong
Jul 15, 2011, 4:17 PM
Post #76289 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: Diphthong wrote: meatbomz wrote: Diphthong wrote: drivel wrote: snoopy138 wrote: Diphthong wrote: snoopy138 wrote: kachoong wrote: granite_grrl wrote: Going climbing today...whooo! I havesta remember to tape up my finger this time....it's been hurting. Looks like I won't be touching rawk until teh Lepe trip. I'm gonna need the Sat and half of Sun of the trip to get back into it. hopefully heading to tik rok saturday morning. not looking forward to teh drive bak with this jiant traffic debacle we're supposed to be having. Carmageddon 2011! yes, I'm trying to avoid that ketchfraze. why are you having a carmagedon? Because of the self-serving nature of SoCakians and our preference for Cadillac Escalades and 14-lane highways instead of public transport. Carpe Diem if you will. Karmagedon Theeeeeyyyrreeee Heeeeeeerrrrreeeeee The gf headed south out of LA yesterday, made it about 7 miles in a about an hour and a half before turning back around. Which took her another hour and a half to get back home. Teh Exodus has begun. that sounds pleasant. I might stay at werk until 9 today since they are klosing teh freeway at 7 and it will be a shitshow getting home. you should have a fun drive up from yore jorb. They're only closing exits at 7, though they'll most likely close [REDACTED] and [REDACTED]. They'll start closing lanes at 10:00. And full closure by 12:00.
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meatbomz
Jul 15, 2011, 4:21 PM
Post #76290 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: meatbomz wrote: Great evening in Cathedral last night. Led the first pitch of Kinesis which was a little wobbly right out of the car. Then the hardest 5.8 pitch in the world, the second pitch of Diedre. Topped out following the spectacular Budapest. Never thought I'd say it, but what an amazing pitch of thin jamming! Ran down to the North End and cruised They Died Laughing, which may still be my favoritest pitch ever. Finished up with the redsight of Recluse, my first 10d at Cathedral. how were teh wimminz on budapest? thin and pumpy
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granite_grrl
Jul 15, 2011, 4:23 PM
Post #76291 of 105309
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Also just realized that all three pairs of my bike shorts just went through the wash....which might also hold the bike ride back.
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edge
Jul 15, 2011, 4:24 PM
Post #76292 of 105309
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meatbomz wrote: edge wrote: meatbomz wrote: Great evening in Cathedral last night. Led the first pitch of Kinesis which was a little wobbly right out of the car. Then the hardest 5.8 pitch in the world, the second pitch of Diedre. Topped out following the spectacular Budapest. Never thought I'd say it, but what an amazing pitch of thin jamming! Ran down to the North End and cruised They Died Laughing, which may still be my favoritest pitch ever. Finished up with the redsight of Recluse, my first 10d at Cathedral. Nice sends. Haven't done Budapest; how was the gear? First time I did Recluse there was a 2 1/2" birch tree growing out of the crack just after the crux. The gear is great on Budapest. Everyone seems to take the big whippers on the purple up high at the crux bulge but Erik got it clean last night. Recluse is a great 10d. You place a bomber C3 off the ground, do a hard move to a tight finger lock with the piece at your waist, then a couple of foot movements to get into a slammer hand jam. Then cruiser 5.9 hands to the top. My kind of climb. Once you get the boulder problem start dialed, Recluse is a nice solo to scare the top-ropers. Bomber hands all the way to the top.
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Diphthong
Jul 15, 2011, 4:27 PM
Post #76293 of 105309
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edge wrote: meatbomz wrote: edge wrote: meatbomz wrote: Great evening in Cathedral last night. Led the first pitch of Kinesis which was a little wobbly right out of the car. Then the hardest 5.8 pitch in the world, the second pitch of Diedre. Topped out following the spectacular Budapest. Never thought I'd say it, but what an amazing pitch of thin jamming! Ran down to the North End and cruised They Died Laughing, which may still be my favoritest pitch ever. Finished up with the redsight of Recluse, my first 10d at Cathedral. Nice sends. Haven't done Budapest; how was the gear? First time I did Recluse there was a 2 1/2" birch tree growing out of the crack just after the crux. The gear is great on Budapest. Everyone seems to take the big whippers on the purple up high at the crux bulge but Erik got it clean last night. Recluse is a great 10d. You place a bomber C3 off the ground, do a hard move to a tight finger lock with the piece at your waist, then a couple of foot movements to get into a slammer hand jam. Then cruiser 5.9 hands to the top. My kind of climb. Once you get the boulder problem start dialed, Recluse is a nice solo to scare the top-ropers. Bomber hands all the way to the top. I don't like you because you're dangerous.
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edge
Jul 15, 2011, 4:34 PM
Post #76294 of 105309
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Diphthong wrote: edge wrote: meatbomz wrote: edge wrote: meatbomz wrote: Great evening in Cathedral last night. Led the first pitch of Kinesis which was a little wobbly right out of the car. Then the hardest 5.8 pitch in the world, the second pitch of Diedre. Topped out following the spectacular Budapest. Never thought I'd say it, but what an amazing pitch of thin jamming! Ran down to the North End and cruised They Died Laughing, which may still be my favoritest pitch ever. Finished up with the redsight of Recluse, my first 10d at Cathedral. Nice sends. Haven't done Budapest; how was the gear? First time I did Recluse there was a 2 1/2" birch tree growing out of the crack just after the crux. The gear is great on Budapest. Everyone seems to take the big whippers on the purple up high at the crux bulge but Erik got it clean last night. Recluse is a great 10d. You place a bomber C3 off the ground, do a hard move to a tight finger lock with the piece at your waist, then a couple of foot movements to get into a slammer hand jam. Then cruiser 5.9 hands to the top. My kind of climb. Once you get the boulder problem start dialed, Recluse is a nice solo to scare the top-ropers. Bomber hands all the way to the top. I don't like you because you're dangerous. I knew there had to be a reason.
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epoch
Moderator
Jul 15, 2011, 4:40 PM
Post #76295 of 105309
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meatbomz wrote: Great evening in Cathedral last night. Led the first pitch of Kinesis which was a little wobbly right out of the car. Then the hardest 5.8 pitch in the world, the second pitch of Diedre. Topped out following the spectacular Budapest. Never thought I'd say it, but what an amazing pitch of thin jamming! Ran down to the North End and cruised They Died Laughing, which may still be my favoritest pitch ever. Finished up with the redsight of Recluse, my first 10d at Cathedral. Diedre is a fun climb, though I don't know what guide book you have that claims it's an 8. The Webster guide puts it at .9+ and I agree that it's a Cathedral .9+. I remember flying off They Died one day after it had rained one move before the #3 placement; zlippery tips are no fun when damp. George Hurley put up 4 new routes up there 4-5 years ago that are super fun. If you get a chance, you should climb The Roof (far left in the corner), but continue past the scrubby bushes to the ledge up top where you'll find a nice 2B anchor. - Raising The Roof, a .9 goes up from the anchor through a blunt-ish blocky arete past two bolts and finishes with a fun mantel to the anker.
- To the right, in a corner, is a .10a/b finger crack, The Liger, climb the corner of the obvious clean slab past 2 bolts to a nice ledge. Continue up the corner (The Unicorn Ice Climb) with good gear and stances (5.8). When the corner ends either exit right into the woods, or make a few strenuous moves up finger cracks to a hand jam and the finish (5.10).
- From the top of They Died Laughing, climb directly up and then stay about 25' right of the Unicorn corner. Continue to the trees at the top (Post Mortem .9+).
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epoch
Moderator
Jul 15, 2011, 4:47 PM
Post #76296 of 105309
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Diphthong wrote: meatbomz wrote: edge wrote: meatbomz wrote: Great evening in Cathedral last night. Led the first pitch of Kinesis which was a little wobbly right out of the car. Then the hardest 5.8 pitch in the world, the second pitch of Diedre. Topped out following the spectacular Budapest. Never thought I'd say it, but what an amazing pitch of thin jamming! Ran down to the North End and cruised They Died Laughing, which may still be my favoritest pitch ever. Finished up with the redsight of Recluse, my first 10d at Cathedral. Nice sends. Haven't done Budapest; how was the gear? First time I did Recluse there was a 2 1/2" birch tree growing out of the crack just after the crux. The gear is great on Budapest. Everyone seems to take the big whippers on the purple up high at the crux bulge but Erik got it clean last night. Recluse is a great 10d. You place a bomber C3 off the ground, do a hard move to a tight finger lock with the piece at your waist, then a couple of foot movements to get into a slammer hand jam. Then cruiser 5.9 hands to the top. My kind of climb. O rly? Yes, is a great climb. I was sketched the first time I did it. I didn't like the possible landing had gear popped.
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epoch
Moderator
Jul 15, 2011, 4:56 PM
Post #76297 of 105309
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epoch wrote: meatbomz wrote: Great evening in Cathedral last night. Led the first pitch of Kinesis which was a little wobbly right out of the car. Then the hardest 5.8 pitch in the world, the second pitch of Diedre. Topped out following the spectacular Budapest. Never thought I'd say it, but what an amazing pitch of thin jamming! Ran down to the North End and cruised They Died Laughing, which may still be my favoritest pitch ever. Finished up with the redsight of Recluse, my first 10d at Cathedral. Diedre is a fun climb, though I don't know what guide book you have that claims it's an 8. The Webster guide puts it at .9+ and I agree that it's a Cathedral .9+. I remember flying off They Died one day after it had rained one move before the #3 placement; zlippery tips are no fun when damp. George Hurley put up 4 new routes up there 4-5 years ago that are super fun. If you get a chance, you should climb The Roof (far left in the corner), but continue past the scrubby bushes to the ledge up top where you'll find a nice 2B anchor. - Raising The Roof, a .9 goes up from the anchor through a blunt-ish blocky arete past two bolts and finishes with a fun mantel to the anker.
- To the right, in a corner, is a .10a/b finger crack, The Liger, climb the corner of the obvious clean slab past 2 bolts to a nice ledge. Continue up the corner (The Unicorn Ice Climb) with good gear and stances (5.8). When the corner ends either exit right into the woods, or make a few strenuous moves up finger cracks to a hand jam and the finish (5.10).
- From the top of They Died Laughing, climb directly up and then stay about 25' right of the Unicorn corner. Continue to the trees at the top (Post Mortem .9+).
Shit, I said four, didn't I? The fourth one, and I didn't get to it before I left, is to the left of Raising The Roof. It involves a fun yet awkward traverse left into a crack system before you crank to to the top. I can find info in my emails if you are interested. I think George put it up about 2 years ago. I want to say that it is another .9+.
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epoch
Moderator
Jul 15, 2011, 5:04 PM
Post #76298 of 105309
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epoch wrote: epoch wrote: meatbomz wrote: Great evening in Cathedral last night. Led the first pitch of Kinesis which was a little wobbly right out of the car. Then the hardest 5.8 pitch in the world, the second pitch of Diedre. Topped out following the spectacular Budapest. Never thought I'd say it, but what an amazing pitch of thin jamming! Ran down to the North End and cruised They Died Laughing, which may still be my favoritest pitch ever. Finished up with the redsight of Recluse, my first 10d at Cathedral. Diedre is a fun climb, though I don't know what guide book you have that claims it's an 8. The Webster guide puts it at .9+ and I agree that it's a Cathedral .9+. I remember flying off They Died one day after it had rained one move before the #3 placement; zlippery tips are no fun when damp. George Hurley put up 4 new routes up there 4-5 years ago that are super fun. If you get a chance, you should climb The Roof (far left in the corner), but continue past the scrubby bushes to the ledge up top where you'll find a nice 2B anchor. - Raising The Roof, a .9 goes up from the anchor through a blunt-ish blocky arete past two bolts and finishes with a fun mantel to the anker.
- To the right, in a corner, is a .10a/b finger crack, The Liger, climb the corner of the obvious clean slab past 2 bolts to a nice ledge. Continue up the corner (The Unicorn Ice Climb) with good gear and stances (5.8). When the corner ends either exit right into the woods, or make a few strenuous moves up finger cracks to a hand jam and the finish (5.10).
- From the top of They Died Laughing, climb directly up and then stay about 25' right of the Unicorn corner. Continue to the trees at the top (Post Mortem .9+).
Shit, I said four, didn't I? The fourth one, and I didn't get to it before I left, is to the left of Raising The Roof. It involves a fun yet awkward traverse left into a crack system before you crank to to the top. I can find info in my emails if you are interested. I think George put it up about 2 years ago. I want to say that it is another .9+. I wish I had done this before I left. Something to get on in the future, maybe:Reformed Located directly above the belay for The Possessed at the North End. You could climb The Roof to the slings and then traverse left on a small ledge over the roof (single bolt for protection) and step/swing down to an anchor. Or you can bypass the the initial 30' pitch and start on the far side of the Unicorn Ledge. A mix of crack and face climbing. Each pitch/section has a single 5.9 move that is protected by a bolt. While you can do the entire 120' climb in a single pitch, by breaking it up into 2 sections the leader and second can hear each other. Pitch 1: Climb straight up with reasonable protection past a bolt to a two-bolt anchor on the far left side of the Unicorn Ledge. - 30' Pitch 2: Climb straight up the overhanging face where the offwidth crack is. The climbing is easier than it looks and there is good protection in a small crack on the right. - 100'
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snoopy138
Jul 15, 2011, 5:14 PM
Post #76299 of 105309
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Diphthong wrote: snoopy138 wrote: Diphthong wrote: meatbomz wrote: Diphthong wrote: drivel wrote: snoopy138 wrote: Diphthong wrote: snoopy138 wrote: kachoong wrote: granite_grrl wrote: Going climbing today...whooo! I havesta remember to tape up my finger this time....it's been hurting. Looks like I won't be touching rawk until teh Lepe trip. I'm gonna need the Sat and half of Sun of the trip to get back into it. hopefully heading to tik rok saturday morning. not looking forward to teh drive bak with this jiant traffic debacle we're supposed to be having. Carmageddon 2011! yes, I'm trying to avoid that ketchfraze. why are you having a carmagedon? Because of the self-serving nature of SoCakians and our preference for Cadillac Escalades and 14-lane highways instead of public transport. Carpe Diem if you will. Karmagedon Theeeeeyyyrreeee Heeeeeeerrrrreeeeee The gf headed south out of LA yesterday, made it about 7 miles in a about an hour and a half before turning back around. Which took her another hour and a half to get back home. Teh Exodus has begun. that sounds pleasant. I might stay at werk until 9 today since they are klosing teh freeway at 7 and it will be a shitshow getting home. you should have a fun drive up from yore jorb. They're only closing exits at 7, though they'll most likely close [REDACTED] and [REDACTED]. They'll start closing lanes at 10:00. And full closure by 12:00. yeah, I'm not anticipating being able to get on the freeway. probibly just go down [REDACTED] to the 10. apparently they're only doing the south half of the bridge, it's going to be the same shit next year for the other half of the bridge.
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snoopy138
Jul 15, 2011, 5:15 PM
Post #76300 of 105309
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whoo!
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