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moose_droppings
Jul 22, 2011, 5:10 PM
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mr.tastycakes wrote: rangerrob wrote: What is easier, a 40 foot 5.13 bolted face climb with one crux move, or a 1500' alpine 5.9 with off widths, runout slabs, loose rock, iced up cracks, and bad weather? The ranges Learner gives can account for the different styles of climbing. For example, a solid, well-rounded intermediate climber would be able to tackle fairly hairy 5.9 (R-ish, off-width, a bit loose, etc), and quickly redpoint a 5.11b sport route. The categories he listed really aren't a bad rule-of-thumb for one's rock climbing performance level. You asked earlier if Fred Becky was a beginner. No, he's not. He's a former badass hardman that is now climbing at a beginner/intermediate level because he's old. And that's OK; He's got a wealth of knowledge and experience, has made great contributions to climbing with his many FA's. None of this is intended to be offensive or ruffle feathers. I guess my beef with this thread is that there seems to be a faction of people who play down the fact that rock climbing is an athletic pursuit, an "adventure sport", and one's ability to overcome difficulty (whether it be a 50 foot sport route or a 1500ft dangerous alpine climb) is how you progress in the sport. IMO, "advanced" or "expert" status is not a title you keep for life. Just because you've logged lots of milage and ticked a couple difficult climbs back in the day doesn't mean your overall climbing ability is at an advanced or expert level today. The difficulty of free climbing you can cope with today defines your climbing level (And I'm referring to difficulty in the holistic sense - including objective danger and commitment). BTW, I'm a totally mediocre climber. And if I'm still climbing the same grades 20 years from now I'll still be a mediocre climber in spite of all that milage and experience. There's no point in sugar-coating it. There's also nothing wrong with enjoying rock climbing at whatever level of difficulty you're at. Apples and oranges. The original question was;
In reply to: So, What constitutes a BEGINNER. ..... So really though is it your numbers or your time of experience ? In respect to the original question as asked, it has to do more with time paid in than it does numbers. As the thread changed, it has become about climbing ability. Then the numbers matter more. Edit to add. As far as Becky's concerned, IMO he's still a hardman that climbs like an expert no matter what terrain he's on.
(This post was edited by moose_droppings on Jul 22, 2011, 5:26 PM)
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KestrelLowing
Jul 22, 2011, 5:14 PM
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To add onto this question, when are you able to actually function as a climber and not as a completely n00b? Basically, I know I'm not ready to ask to climb with other people as I can barely do 5.8 at the gym and I've never led (the routes at the gym are all 5.9 or above for lead). At what level is it not awkward to attempt to join others on climbing outings? Is there typically a grade you climb or skills you have? (Basically, I don't have any experienced climber friends - my boyfriend and I are learning together but at some point we'd like to make the leap outside but aren't quite certain what skill level we should be at before attempting to find other climbing partners)
(This post was edited by KestrelLowing on Jul 22, 2011, 5:16 PM)
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antiqued
Jul 22, 2011, 9:21 PM
Post #53 of 70
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Learner wrote: However, I maintain that in my original reply I was referring exclusively to categories of performance level. This is what "how hard you climb" means. We have perfectly good terms to describe "how hard you climb"! Words like 5.8, 5.11c.....Why would you take widely understood, useful language like that and replace it with only 4 categories?
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Learner
Jul 22, 2011, 9:31 PM
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antiqued wrote: Learner wrote: However, I maintain that in my original reply I was referring exclusively to categories of performance level. This is what "how hard you climb" means. We have perfectly good terms to describe "how hard you climb"! Words like 5.8, 5.11c.....Why would you take widely understood, useful language like that and replace it with only 4 categories? I agree that categories such as "beginner" or "expert" are too vague. That's why I said in my next reply that if you want to tell someone how hard you climb, give them a grade. If we need to, however, we can categorize climbers according to performance level based on grade ranges, which is exactly what we to to organize many competitions. Why are we discussing the ranges to which such "widely understood, useful language" can be applied? Because that is the topic of the original question.
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Speed4TheNeed
Jul 22, 2011, 9:45 PM
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If we all had the same opinions, then this would be easy, or even unnecessary. Fortunately, this is obviously not the case because the topic is highly subjective. What I consider to be an expert is probably at least a little different from what the next climber would consider to be an expert. Someone I consider safe sport climbing with may not be someone I consider myself trad climbing with...much less when you include bigger differences such as alpine or cave climbing. Even if we are talking purely about knowledge, is it possible a total beginner may know at least 1 thing about climbing/rescue/safety that an "expert" may not? I would venture to say "yes." Does that make him more valuable? Probably not. The culmination of skills and knowledge is what I think we can all agree constitutes a novice, recreational, intermediate, and expert climber. However, the emphasis we each place on different aspects of these skills and knowledge sets will determine whether someone is an expert to YOU or not (individually speaking). "Personal expert" would probably be more fitting--although that now becomes useless to anyone but yourself and those very much like you. Back to the defining ;)
(This post was edited by Speed4TheNeed on Jul 22, 2011, 9:46 PM)
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sungam
Jul 22, 2011, 9:51 PM
Post #56 of 70
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KestrelLowing wrote: To add onto this question, when are you able to actually function as a climber and not as a completely n00b? Basically, I know I'm not ready to ask to climb with other people as I can barely do 5.8 at the gym and I've never led (the routes at the gym are all 5.9 or above for lead). At what level is it not awkward to attempt to join others on climbing outings? Is there typically a grade you climb or skills you have? (Basically, I don't have any experienced climber friends - my boyfriend and I are learning together but at some point we'd like to make the leap outside but aren't quite certain what skill level we should be at before attempting to find other climbing partners) At what level is it not awkward? Any level! It's pretty easy to find some nice people who like to go out as a small group and help introduce people to climbing. Especially if you're friendly and willing to carry the rack/rope. Probably the best way to meet people to climb with would be to just meet and become friends with as many people as possible at the gym. Get yourself a nice wide base of potential partners. Just try to make sure that the people you hook up with know what they are on about. Unfortunately, since you don't know what you are on about, this can be kinda hard. Try to work something out.
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rangerrob
Jul 22, 2011, 10:07 PM
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On a completely seperate note...Joel....your grammar and spelling SUUUUCKS! Totally beginner level.
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JoeHamilton
Jul 23, 2011, 12:34 AM
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Yeah, I know. I havent read anything yet that said I need it or need to have an english degree to climb though. Basicaly In a forum I try to type as if speaking. The funny thing is the point gets to the point regardless.
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clee03m
Jul 23, 2011, 12:40 AM
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Try calling one of my climbing partners who has climbed 30 years and has set many routes ground up without power tools (one of which is a blank slab BTW) a beginner just because he climbs 5.8 when he is rusty after a long winter. Please. I think a beginner is someone who would call that guy a beginner based on his performance level.
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jacques
Jul 23, 2011, 1:16 AM
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KestrelLowing wrote: To add onto this question, when are you able to actually function as a climber and not as a completely n00b? Basically, I know I'm not ready to ask to climb with other people as I can barely do 5.8 at the gym and I've never led (the routes at the gym are all 5.9 or above for lead). At what level is it not awkward to attempt to join others on climbing outings? Is there typically a grade you climb or skills you have? ) It is for the reason why people make he system beginer, intermediate.... actually, you said that you don't have the power to pull over an advance degree and technically, you don't know about the rock. I went with a group of the appalachian climbing club. and there was a lot of people who just want to climb. As a new leadedr (not me) you need someone and as a follower you also need someone. so it is a good place to met. I was there and I said that I want to climb intermediary (turner flake), so they gave me someone who want to climb that level. As I was volounteer, it was o.k. for me to led 5.6 (except thin air), but as a 5.10 climber I prefer some think in the middle. I know how to rate, but if you told me that you climb 5.8 in a gym...I have no idea if you are stronger and just want a cheap lead to know about trad climbing or if you are interested to learn to trad climb and do some route like cathedrl spire in toluemme (5.6 expose). Once in the route, I can be pisse off because you ran in it without taking care with the safety (a 25 foot pendulum in a 5.10 move) or the route can be too hard for you. if the route is to hard for you, the next time you will know more about your level and how to improve.
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climbingtrash
Jul 23, 2011, 2:51 AM
Post #61 of 70
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Learner wrote: JoeHamilton wrote: What constitutes a BEGINNER? Is it TIME? Is climbing level ? Is it how many beers you can drink or friends you have ? I consider your status as a climber to be an indicator of, and determined by, your climbing level. It is a label for how hard you climb. If you climb... 5.8 and lower = BEGINNER 5.9-5.11b = INTERMEDIATE 5.11c-5.13b = ADVANCED 5.13c on up = EXPERT In other words, it is a level at which you are at. If you climbed 5.10's from day 1, you were never at the beginner level. You climbed a higher level than that since the day you started. Hahaha Falze.
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ceebo
Jul 23, 2011, 2:49 PM
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climbingtrash wrote: Learner wrote: JoeHamilton wrote: What constitutes a BEGINNER? Is it TIME? Is climbing level ? Is it how many beers you can drink or friends you have ? I consider your status as a climber to be an indicator of, and determined by, your climbing level. It is a label for how hard you climb. If you climb... 5.8 and lower = BEGINNER 5.9-5.11b = INTERMEDIATE 5.11c-5.13b = ADVANCED 5.13c on up = EXPERT In other words, it is a level at which you are at. If you climbed 5.10's from day 1, you were never at the beginner level. You climbed a higher level than that since the day you started. Hahaha Falze. A true climbing expert would really have such a massive list.. i don't even think the likes of Lynn hill could be considered. - Expert in training concepts (including musculoskeletal system and all things of that nature like movement etc) - Expert in implementing the above knowledge so that it allows them to climb at the peak of their own human limit. That would include any style of climbing and rock. - Expert in training concepts to prevent or rehabilitate injury's. - Expert in nutrition. - Expert in mental discipline's, psychology etc (for fear management). - Expert in all climbing related gear. - Expert in rock reading (not that theirs a class for it) for the likes of avoiding death breaking holds in free solo. - Expert in keeping the significant other half happy as one chases selfish ambition. Probably more to add... but no matter, since 99% of us cant even tick off more than 2 of those above.
(This post was edited by ceebo on Jul 23, 2011, 2:50 PM)
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sungam
Jul 23, 2011, 5:49 PM
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ceebo wrote: climbingtrash wrote: Learner wrote: JoeHamilton wrote: What constitutes a BEGINNER? Is it TIME? Is climbing level ? Is it how many beers you can drink or friends you have ? I consider your status as a climber to be an indicator of, and determined by, your climbing level. It is a label for how hard you climb. If you climb... 5.8 and lower = BEGINNER 5.9-5.11b = INTERMEDIATE 5.11c-5.13b = ADVANCED 5.13c on up = EXPERT In other words, it is a level at which you are at. If you climbed 5.10's from day 1, you were never at the beginner level. You climbed a higher level than that since the day you started. Hahaha Falze. A true climbing expert would really have such a massive list.. i don't even think the likes of Lynn hill could be considered. - Expert in training concepts (including musculoskeletal system and all things of that nature like movement etc) - Expert in implementing the above knowledge so that it allows them to climb at the peak of their own human limit. That would include any style of climbing and rock. - Expert in training concepts to prevent or rehabilitate injury's. - Expert in nutrition. - Expert in mental discipline's, psychology etc (for fear management). - Expert in all climbing related gear. - Expert in rock reading (not that theirs a class for it) for the likes of avoiding death breaking holds in free solo. - Expert in keeping the significant other half happy as one chases selfish ambition. Probably more to add... but no matter, since 99% of us cant even tick off more than 2 of those above. Wooo! Dave McLeod FTW!
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ablanchard17
Jul 23, 2011, 6:44 PM
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climbing "Level" is really evaluated on a per person basis taking into consideration their A) Climbing Skill B) Knowledge of Safety and how to stay safe C) Knowledge of their gear ( this ties into(no pun intended)B) D) Knowledge of their personal limits and about a billion other things.
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Learner
Jul 23, 2011, 8:04 PM
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ablanchard17 wrote: climbing "Level" is really evaluated on a per person basis taking into consideration their A) Climbing Skill B) Knowledge of Safety and how to stay safe C) Knowledge of their gear ( this ties into(no pun intended)B) D) Knowledge of their personal limits and about a billion other things. Great point. So, how do you quantify a person's climbing 'level' based on these criteria?
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JoeHamilton
Jul 23, 2011, 8:23 PM
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I watch,listen,and talk. I don't really give two craps about a persons "grade level" to determine if they would be a good partner. I watch them belay, if they have a good belay habit and form that I can trust, I will climb with them . I listen to how they talk about themselves if they are too full of themselves then they just might not be great match as a consistent partner. I talk with other climbers to learn and do more listening. Talking to communicate and see if maybe they like minded, which will make hiking and driving an added venture to go climb. This thread has been fun, lot of good info coming out of it.
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johnwesely
Jul 23, 2011, 11:41 PM
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JoeHamilton wrote: Yeah, I know. I havent read anything yet that said I need it or need to have an english degree to climb though. Basicaly In a forum I try to type as if speaking. The funny thing is the point gets to the point regardless. The funny thing is that it doesn't.
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JoeHamilton
Jul 24, 2011, 6:55 AM
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Yet you keep responding, so it must.
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Learner
Jul 24, 2011, 7:52 AM
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JoeHamilton wrote: I watch,listen,and talk. I don't really give two craps about a persons "grade level" to determine if they would be a good partner. I watch them belay, if they have a good belay habit and form that I can trust, I will climb with them . I listen to how they talk about themselves if they are too full of themselves then they just might not be great match as a consistent partner. I talk with other climbers to learn and do more listening. Talking to communicate and see if maybe they like minded, which will make hiking and driving an added venture to go climb. This thread has been fun, lot of good info coming out of it. It has been interesting to consider so many different perspectives. Also, I agree with you on choosing partners. Safety is above all else. I also like partners that are dependable, positive (very important), and have a good work ethic. Once these criteria are met, then how hard they climb comes into play--I would prefer to climb with people that are better than me. Climbing is a learning experience, and I love to climb with people I can learn from.
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climbingtrash
Jul 24, 2011, 1:10 PM
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JoeHamilton wrote: Yet you keep responding, so it must. Sum left coast logik right there.^^
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