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sungam
Aug 5, 2011, 9:29 AM
Post #26 of 28
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
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MarcelS wrote: sungam wrote: If you are getting the SCC then it's kinda a waste for me to give you a half-assed rundown on training. So I'll just give you this: warm up, build yourself up to routes at your limit, then try harder ones. Give each burn on each route 110%. Think about your technique, it isn't all in the guns, but try hard. Consider taking 1 session a week for routes and one for bouldering (if the bouldering area is good). Well after I read this comment, I decided to order the damn book right away  Shipping from the UK so I will have to wait for a bit, but looking forward to the content, as I have seen it mentioned countless times on this site. What I normally do is warm up on 2 easy routes (5.8-5.9), and then start with routes at the top of my ability. Always try at least 1 or 2 routes that I know I cannot climb out yet. This evening I finally finished a 5.10c that ends with a few meters very strong overhanging route (like 45 degrees or so), where the last pull was too hard for me the last few tries. the 5.11a I tried after that was technically too much of a challenge but is next on my wishlist! Anyway thanks for your input, quite friendly too for a Scotsman 
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chilli
Aug 6, 2011, 12:47 AM
Post #28 of 28
(756 views)
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Registered: Nov 11, 2007
Posts: 401
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jt512 wrote: aerili wrote: [T]endons can and do store energy that contributes to force production. Okay, now I really need a citation. Jay
Ask and ye shall receive...
"It is well accepted that strain energy is stored in elastic elements upon loading and subsequently released upon unloading (Alexander & Vernon, 1975; Alexander & Bennet-Clark, 1977; Cavagna et al., 1977). Although some of the stored energy is not recovered due to energy dissipation (hysteresis), tendon can potentially return over 90% of the stored energy (Shadwick, 1990; Bennett et al., 1986). This stored energy in tendons may be one mechanism that contributes to energy conservation during locomotion (Alexander & Vernon, 1975; Roberts et al., 1997; Biewener & Roberts, 2000). "
- Magnusson S.P, Hansen P, Kjæ M. Tendon properties in relation to muscular activity and physical training. Scandinavian J Med & Sci in Sports. 2003: 13(4) 211-223.
also an interesting review on tendon biomechanics in general is...
Wang JHC. Mechanobiology of tendon. J Biomechanics. 2006: 39(9) 1563-1582.
Coincidentally i was reviewing some of that info recently and thought of these 2 for ya. Good timing on the ref request.
Tendon storage of potential energy is not (in my opinion) something applicable to the movement and forces of climbing though. I think that static climbing doesn't induce dynamic elongation necessary for that. But I have no reference for that, so take it as you see fit.
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