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meatbomz
Aug 25, 2011, 3:18 AM
Post #80176 of 105309
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meatbomz
Aug 25, 2011, 3:18 AM
Post #80177 of 105309
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granite_grrl
Aug 25, 2011, 11:11 AM
Post #80178 of 105309
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macherry wrote: granite_grrl wrote: In other news, either the scale has lost it's mind or I'm a couple of pounds lighter than I thought I was. w00t i could use your scale
So there was a sunflower seed under one of the feet throwing things off....I am not, in fact, as light as I thought I was. 
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granite_grrl
Aug 25, 2011, 11:21 AM
Post #80179 of 105309
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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dr_feelgood wrote: camhead wrote: caughtinside wrote: Diphthong wrote: caughtinside wrote: camhead wrote: meatbomz wrote: camhead wrote: Damn, so, one of our .3 camalutz is fucked. The spring either broke, or became detached from the hole that connects it into the inside lobe. Coincidentally, there was just a thread on the prodge from some dude that had the same problem on the same piece. Anyway, sent a futile email to BD on the off chance that they could repair it, which I'm doubting since all their shit just comes from China now. The piece is still semi-usable; the gimpy lobe just stays in about a 40% retracted position, and will retract further, but just won't open all the way. I'll probably keep using it as a backup piece until it breaks all the way or gets stuck, whichever comes first. We still have another .3 c4, two Metolius TCUs, one c3, and some old Hugh Banner in that size, which will be enough for all the tips carcks this fall, I think. That thar be green alien land. Yup. Just waiting for disfall when the resurrected Aliens are available. We need the black, blue, green, yellow, and red! Black and blue are ok, but I think other cams might be better in those sizes. They don't have the internal cam springs in the lobes, and so those two are wider than a green alien, a real negative in those tiny sizes. I have them and they work, but I think I'd rather go c3 or even tcu in those tiny sizes. Wha what? yeah, I noes. YOu lose the narrow head width on alien in those sizes. The only remaining advantage is the floppy stem, which I think is secondary to a quality placement, which is more likely with a narrower head to find the sweetspots in tiny carcks. I have fallen on two lobes of a black alien and it held though. Yeah, I prefer tcu's in those smallest sizes as well, though I still think that, for 4 cam lobes, the Aliens were the best for small stuff. A while back, I bought the two smallest of those old " microcamalots"– four-cam units that are the equivalent of black and blue aliens, roughly, and have never gotten a satisfactory placement with them. Just too bulky, wide, high-profile trigger wires, for their size. Aren't those the yellow .2 and red .1 cams that look like toys? I'm somewhat surprised by all the hatez directed towards the small mastercams. 4 lobes, narrow head, yadda yadda yadda....
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granite_grrl
Aug 25, 2011, 11:23 AM
Post #80180 of 105309
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
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caughtinside wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: camhead wrote: caughtinside wrote: Diphthong wrote: caughtinside wrote: camhead wrote: meatbomz wrote: camhead wrote: Damn, so, one of our .3 camalutz is fucked. The spring either broke, or became detached from the hole that connects it into the inside lobe. Coincidentally, there was just a thread on the prodge from some dude that had the same problem on the same piece. Anyway, sent a futile email to BD on the off chance that they could repair it, which I'm doubting since all their shit just comes from China now. The piece is still semi-usable; the gimpy lobe just stays in about a 40% retracted position, and will retract further, but just won't open all the way. I'll probably keep using it as a backup piece until it breaks all the way or gets stuck, whichever comes first. We still have another .3 c4, two Metolius TCUs, one c3, and some old Hugh Banner in that size, which will be enough for all the tips carcks this fall, I think. That thar be green alien land. Yup. Just waiting for disfall when the resurrected Aliens are available. We need the black, blue, green, yellow, and red! Black and blue are ok, but I think other cams might be better in those sizes. They don't have the internal cam springs in the lobes, and so those two are wider than a green alien, a real negative in those tiny sizes. I have them and they work, but I think I'd rather go c3 or even tcu in those tiny sizes. Wha what? yeah, I noes. YOu lose the narrow head width on alien in those sizes. The only remaining advantage is the floppy stem, which I think is secondary to a quality placement, which is more likely with a narrower head to find the sweetspots in tiny carcks. I have fallen on two lobes of a black alien and it held though. Yeah, I prefer tcu's in those smallest sizes as well, though I still think that, for 4 cam lobes, the Aliens were the best for small stuff. A while back, I bought the two smallest of those old " microcamalots"– four-cam units that are the equivalent of black and blue aliens, roughly, and have never gotten a satisfactory placement with them. Just too bulky, wide, high-profile trigger wires, for their size. Aren't those the yellow .2 and red .1 cams that look like toys? I'm somewhat surprised by all the hatez directed towards the small mastercams. 4 lobes, narrow head, yadda yadda yadda.... They are ok. The problem is that they are inferior to aliens in the following: range head material trigger assembly (those cables always roll funky) and the not really kevlar trigger cords They are good cams though.
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granite_grrl
Aug 25, 2011, 11:24 AM
Post #80181 of 105309
(3317 views)
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
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meatbomz wrote: Diphthong wrote: drivel wrote: Diphthong wrote: caughtinside wrote: drivel wrote: caughtinside wrote: camhead wrote: meatbomz wrote: camhead wrote: Damn, so, one of our .3 camalutz is fucked. The spring either broke, or became detached from the hole that connects it into the inside lobe. Coincidentally, there was just a thread on the prodge from some dude that had the same problem on the same piece. Anyway, sent a futile email to BD on the off chance that they could repair it, which I'm doubting since all their shit just comes from China now. The piece is still semi-usable; the gimpy lobe just stays in about a 40% retracted position, and will retract further, but just won't open all the way. I'll probably keep using it as a backup piece until it breaks all the way or gets stuck, whichever comes first. We still have another .3 c4, two Metolius TCUs, one c3, and some old Hugh Banner in that size, which will be enough for all the tips carcks this fall, I think. That thar be green alien land. Yup. Just waiting for disfall when the resurrected Aliens are available. We need the black, blue, green, yellow, and red! Black and blue are ok, but I think other cams might be better in those sizes. They don't have the internal cam springs in the lobes, and so those two are wider than a green alien, a real negative in those tiny sizes. I have them and they work, but I think I'd rather go c3 or even tcu in those tiny sizes. and i want a grey C3. dang. mist the pt. is the grey the 00 or the 000? 000 yeah, 00 is purple, and we're already buddies. theoretically, both are aid pieces, but I'd totally fall on the purple guy. Durp. Well, I don't know that I'm excited to fall on the perple, but I keep it racked. I dunno, maybe it's mental, but the gray looks so much more delicate to me. I really wouldn't wuntz to fall on it. I watched clikker take repeated 30'ers on his purple TCU at the T-wall. Made my anoose pucker.
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granite_grrl
Aug 25, 2011, 11:36 AM
Post #80183 of 105309
(3313 views)
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
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drivel wrote: snoopy138 wrote: Reading through the RRG routes on MP, it seems like there's a lot of info about "sit-down rests" and "lie-down rests", and shit like this: vtg wrote: the trick to the lie-down rest is to keep scooting down until your feet are pretty much in the bush. it feels weird and uncomfortable until you get that far- once there, though, its pretty sweet. really good- not really a .12a, imho- if the rest wasn't there, though, it'd definitely be .12ish. I'm all for smart climbing, but this seems to be a bit excessive. that's the route description for Manifest Destiny, isn't it?
And I thought Manifest was given 11d now.
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camhead
Aug 25, 2011, 12:39 PM
Post #80184 of 105309
(3306 views)
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
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granite_grrl wrote: drivel wrote: snoopy138 wrote: Reading through the RRG routes on MP, it seems like there's a lot of info about "sit-down rests" and "lie-down rests", and shit like this: vtg wrote: the trick to the lie-down rest is to keep scooting down until your feet are pretty much in the bush. it feels weird and uncomfortable until you get that far- once there, though, its pretty sweet. really good- not really a .12a, imho- if the rest wasn't there, though, it'd definitely be .12ish. I'm all for smart climbing, but this seems to be a bit excessive. that's the route description for Manifest Destiny, isn't it? When I got on Manifest last spring I spent most of my time in that lay down rest yelling "your only cheating yourself" to the other guy in his lay down rest. And I thought Manifest was given 11d now.
it is given 11d now; it's really 11c. Pretty much every climb at the Solarium has had a letter grade knocked off of it. It's funny to read the comments as they progress on rrc.com.
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meatbomz
Aug 25, 2011, 12:44 PM
Post #80186 of 105309
(3302 views)
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Registered: Apr 23, 2010
Posts: 7073
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granite_grrl wrote: macherry wrote: granite_grrl wrote: In other news, either the scale has lost it's mind or I'm a couple of pounds lighter than I thought I was. w00t i could use your scale So there was a sunflower seed under one of the feet throwing things off....I am not, in fact, as light as I thought I was.
*nelson laff*
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meatbomz
Aug 25, 2011, 12:45 PM
Post #80187 of 105309
(3301 views)
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Registered: Apr 23, 2010
Posts: 7073
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granite_grrl wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: camhead wrote: caughtinside wrote: Diphthong wrote: caughtinside wrote: camhead wrote: meatbomz wrote: camhead wrote: Damn, so, one of our .3 camalutz is fucked. The spring either broke, or became detached from the hole that connects it into the inside lobe. Coincidentally, there was just a thread on the prodge from some dude that had the same problem on the same piece. Anyway, sent a futile email to BD on the off chance that they could repair it, which I'm doubting since all their shit just comes from China now. The piece is still semi-usable; the gimpy lobe just stays in about a 40% retracted position, and will retract further, but just won't open all the way. I'll probably keep using it as a backup piece until it breaks all the way or gets stuck, whichever comes first. We still have another .3 c4, two Metolius TCUs, one c3, and some old Hugh Banner in that size, which will be enough for all the tips carcks this fall, I think. That thar be green alien land. Yup. Just waiting for disfall when the resurrected Aliens are available. We need the black, blue, green, yellow, and red! Black and blue are ok, but I think other cams might be better in those sizes. They don't have the internal cam springs in the lobes, and so those two are wider than a green alien, a real negative in those tiny sizes. I have them and they work, but I think I'd rather go c3 or even tcu in those tiny sizes. Wha what? yeah, I noes. YOu lose the narrow head width on alien in those sizes. The only remaining advantage is the floppy stem, which I think is secondary to a quality placement, which is more likely with a narrower head to find the sweetspots in tiny carcks. I have fallen on two lobes of a black alien and it held though. Yeah, I prefer tcu's in those smallest sizes as well, though I still think that, for 4 cam lobes, the Aliens were the best for small stuff. A while back, I bought the two smallest of those old " microcamalots"– four-cam units that are the equivalent of black and blue aliens, roughly, and have never gotten a satisfactory placement with them. Just too bulky, wide, high-profile trigger wires, for their size. Aren't those the yellow .2 and red .1 cams that look like toys? I'm somewhat surprised by all the hatez directed towards the small mastercams. 4 lobes, narrow head, yadda yadda yadda.... I enjoy my blue Master Cam, but no one in this thread wants to hear that.
depends on the manner of your enjoyment
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meatbomz
Aug 25, 2011, 12:46 PM
Post #80188 of 105309
(3300 views)
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Registered: Apr 23, 2010
Posts: 7073
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granite_grrl wrote: drivel wrote: snoopy138 wrote: Reading through the RRG routes on MP, it seems like there's a lot of info about "sit-down rests" and "lie-down rests", and shit like this: vtg wrote: the trick to the lie-down rest is to keep scooting down until your feet are pretty much in the bush. it feels weird and uncomfortable until you get that far- once there, though, its pretty sweet. really good- not really a .12a, imho- if the rest wasn't there, though, it'd definitely be .12ish. I'm all for smart climbing, but this seems to be a bit excessive. that's the route description for Manifest Destiny, isn't it? When I got on Manifest last spring I spent most of my time in that lay down rest yelling "your only cheating yourself" to the other guy in his lay down rest. And I thought Manifest was given 11d now.
Holy carp. Nesting season.
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drivel
Aug 25, 2011, 12:49 PM
Post #80189 of 105309
(3297 views)
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Registered: Apr 22, 2010
Posts: 2459
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meatbomz wrote: granite_grrl wrote: drivel wrote: snoopy138 wrote: Reading through the RRG routes on MP, it seems like there's a lot of info about "sit-down rests" and "lie-down rests", and shit like this: vtg wrote: the trick to the lie-down rest is to keep scooting down until your feet are pretty much in the bush. it feels weird and uncomfortable until you get that far- once there, though, its pretty sweet. really good- not really a .12a, imho- if the rest wasn't there, though, it'd definitely be .12ish. I'm all for smart climbing, but this seems to be a bit excessive. that's the route description for Manifest Destiny, isn't it? When I got on Manifest last spring I spent most of my time in that lay down rest yelling "your only cheating yourself" to the other guy in his lay down rest. And I thought Manifest was given 11d now. Holy carp. Nesting season.
well, the coffin ledges often run for a ways across the cliff.
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granite_grrl
Aug 25, 2011, 12:54 PM
Post #80190 of 105309
(3289 views)
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
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That sucks.
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granite_grrl
Aug 25, 2011, 12:55 PM
Post #80191 of 105309
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
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meatbomz wrote: granite_grrl wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: camhead wrote: caughtinside wrote: Diphthong wrote: caughtinside wrote: camhead wrote: meatbomz wrote: camhead wrote: Damn, so, one of our .3 camalutz is fucked. The spring either broke, or became detached from the hole that connects it into the inside lobe. Coincidentally, there was just a thread on the prodge from some dude that had the same problem on the same piece. Anyway, sent a futile email to BD on the off chance that they could repair it, which I'm doubting since all their shit just comes from China now. The piece is still semi-usable; the gimpy lobe just stays in about a 40% retracted position, and will retract further, but just won't open all the way. I'll probably keep using it as a backup piece until it breaks all the way or gets stuck, whichever comes first. We still have another .3 c4, two Metolius TCUs, one c3, and some old Hugh Banner in that size, which will be enough for all the tips carcks this fall, I think. That thar be green alien land. Yup. Just waiting for disfall when the resurrected Aliens are available. We need the black, blue, green, yellow, and red! Black and blue are ok, but I think other cams might be better in those sizes. They don't have the internal cam springs in the lobes, and so those two are wider than a green alien, a real negative in those tiny sizes. I have them and they work, but I think I'd rather go c3 or even tcu in those tiny sizes. Wha what? yeah, I noes. YOu lose the narrow head width on alien in those sizes. The only remaining advantage is the floppy stem, which I think is secondary to a quality placement, which is more likely with a narrower head to find the sweetspots in tiny carcks. I have fallen on two lobes of a black alien and it held though. Yeah, I prefer tcu's in those smallest sizes as well, though I still think that, for 4 cam lobes, the Aliens were the best for small stuff. A while back, I bought the two smallest of those old " microcamalots"– four-cam units that are the equivalent of black and blue aliens, roughly, and have never gotten a satisfactory placement with them. Just too bulky, wide, high-profile trigger wires, for their size. Aren't those the yellow .2 and red .1 cams that look like toys? I'm somewhat surprised by all the hatez directed towards the small mastercams. 4 lobes, narrow head, yadda yadda yadda.... I enjoy my blue Master Cam, but no one in this thread wants to hear that. depends on the manner of your enjoyment
It fits well in tight finger cracks?
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camhead
Aug 25, 2011, 1:27 PM
Post #80192 of 105309
(3281 views)
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
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granite_grrl wrote: That sucks.
Also, looks like they just caught some douches at the New.
http://home.nps.gov/...mp;urlarea=incidents
I was going to mention something on redriverclimbing about how, in addition to fewer crowds, less of a scene, more variety, and better restaurants, the New knows how to catch thieves better than the Red.
Then I (dribble) decided that would be dick, even for me. The Red is kind of a worst case scenario of several different counties, agencies, underfunding, and an existing hostility to outsiders with a fraction of the economic benefits that the NRG has.
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meatbomz
Aug 25, 2011, 3:04 PM
Post #80193 of 105309
(3269 views)
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Registered: Apr 23, 2010
Posts: 7073
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granite_grrl wrote: meatbomz wrote: granite_grrl wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: camhead wrote: caughtinside wrote: Diphthong wrote: caughtinside wrote: camhead wrote: meatbomz wrote: camhead wrote: Damn, so, one of our .3 camalutz is fucked. The spring either broke, or became detached from the hole that connects it into the inside lobe. Coincidentally, there was just a thread on the prodge from some dude that had the same problem on the same piece. Anyway, sent a futile email to BD on the off chance that they could repair it, which I'm doubting since all their shit just comes from China now. The piece is still semi-usable; the gimpy lobe just stays in about a 40% retracted position, and will retract further, but just won't open all the way. I'll probably keep using it as a backup piece until it breaks all the way or gets stuck, whichever comes first. We still have another .3 c4, two Metolius TCUs, one c3, and some old Hugh Banner in that size, which will be enough for all the tips carcks this fall, I think. That thar be green alien land. Yup. Just waiting for disfall when the resurrected Aliens are available. We need the black, blue, green, yellow, and red! Black and blue are ok, but I think other cams might be better in those sizes. They don't have the internal cam springs in the lobes, and so those two are wider than a green alien, a real negative in those tiny sizes. I have them and they work, but I think I'd rather go c3 or even tcu in those tiny sizes. Wha what? yeah, I noes. YOu lose the narrow head width on alien in those sizes. The only remaining advantage is the floppy stem, which I think is secondary to a quality placement, which is more likely with a narrower head to find the sweetspots in tiny carcks. I have fallen on two lobes of a black alien and it held though. Yeah, I prefer tcu's in those smallest sizes as well, though I still think that, for 4 cam lobes, the Aliens were the best for small stuff. A while back, I bought the two smallest of those old " microcamalots"– four-cam units that are the equivalent of black and blue aliens, roughly, and have never gotten a satisfactory placement with them. Just too bulky, wide, high-profile trigger wires, for their size. Aren't those the yellow .2 and red .1 cams that look like toys? I'm somewhat surprised by all the hatez directed towards the small mastercams. 4 lobes, narrow head, yadda yadda yadda.... I enjoy my blue Master Cam, but no one in this thread wants to hear that. depends on the manner of your enjoyment It fits well in tight finger cracks?
*romulan eyebrow raise*
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snoopy138
Aug 25, 2011, 3:16 PM
Post #80194 of 105309
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28992
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will keep that in mind. If I bring an iPad out there, is there anywhere with wifi?
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drivel
Aug 25, 2011, 3:19 PM
Post #80195 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 22, 2010
Posts: 2459
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snoopy138 wrote: will keep that in mind. If I bring an iPad out there, is there anywhere with wifi?
miggy's has the wifis.
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Diphthong
Aug 25, 2011, 3:22 PM
Post #80196 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 5, 2011
Posts: 2639
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Sitting in the Presidential Lounge at George Bush International, about to embark on a mission of sekrit radness. What would be rad is if they had a fucking couch to lie down on.
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Diphthong
Aug 25, 2011, 3:23 PM
Post #80197 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 5, 2011
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Know what else is rad?
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Diphthong
Aug 25, 2011, 3:23 PM
Post #80198 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 5, 2011
Posts: 2639
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Durp
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macherry
Aug 25, 2011, 3:23 PM
Post #80199 of 105309
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Registered: Sep 10, 2003
Posts: 15848
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granite_grrl wrote: macherry wrote: granite_grrl wrote: In other news, either the scale has lost it's mind or I'm a couple of pounds lighter than I thought I was. w00t i could use your scale So there was a sunflower seed under one of the feet throwing things off....I am not, in fact, as light as I thought I was.
i haven't had a scale in years. i use the clothing test to see if i've lost weight.
sorry about the seed
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Diphthong
Aug 25, 2011, 3:23 PM
Post #80200 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 5, 2011
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those.
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